Brian Harrap Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Control panel nonDCC QUAI:87. Yes really, Brian. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 Hi Dave......pleased you like the idea of the thread, some of the panels are complete works of art, I'm so envious. Yours sounds exciting too. Off to Silverstone for the weekend on Thursday this week....MotoGP and Mr Rossi are in town. Thanks for your comments..............Bob. Mmmmm...I'm very envious. I'll be glued to the telly but it won't be the same. They just need to get that Duke sorted and then we'll see if Stoner the Moaner really is the quickest. Err, sorry, very off topic.... I've just followed your link to the Fairfield Junction thread. It's looking good, but I can see the control panel requirements would be rather more onerous than my simple effort. Perhaps if you're fully DCC committed, the computerised route, as per Beast66606 is the best. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 7, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2011 Control panel nonDCC QUAI:87. Yes really, Brian. Brian, if this had been in a 'Wheeltappers' 'What is this?', I don't think anyone would have guessed correctly... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted June 8, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 8, 2011 My panels -- from the elaborate to the ones with Atlas electric switches. St Mary Ax has a hand drawn track plan that's not shown; the plan is Minories. All points are manual. The elaborate one (Exeter St Dayle's) is designed to slide into the top shelf between the books and the framework. (Posted to show the other end of the spectrum from what has gone before) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 As mentioned by me above, I use these hooks, clasps or whatever they are called to hang my control panel and coffee/tea and sundry shelves onto the layout. The tongues on the panel face downwards, those on the layout up. Along the top 'joint' between the panel and baseboard, I usually have a couple of those small (white!) window rubber wedges in place to stop any uplanned for unhitching I have found this to be a very efficient method for assembly/dismatling at exhibitions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted June 8, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 8, 2011 As mentioned by me above, I use these hooks, clasps or whatever they are called to hang my control panel and coffee/tea and sundry shelves onto the layout. Toolstation just call them 'flushmount fittings', although these are a slightly different shape:- http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hardware/Hooks+Picture+Hanging/Flushmount+Fitting+35mm/d170/sd2668/p60564 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mike Bellamy Posted June 8, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 8, 2011 There will be a separate, floor mounted power supply box feeding the required inputs to the control panel. Very pleased to see that this has been mentioned especially as some of the examples shown have been built around wooden boxes. For portable layouts this may cause problems as PAT testing is a requirement at some exhibitions. Bob - you are very welcome to call in at Mickleover Club and see what the guys have done there - 5 layouts and all have different control panels Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penlan Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Very pleased to see that this has been mentioned especially as some of the examples shown have been built around wooden boxes. All my mains/transformer boxes etc., are in MoD spec., insulated boxes on the floor, only 12V is in the wooden control panels etc., I have covered elsewhere the overhead lighting on my layout again all the gubbin's, ballast units etc., for florescent lighting are in a ex. MoD spec., and fan vented box c/w with heat sinks too. Mind you, there is a lot of dust rolling around exhibition floors, I have to clean out the fan vented one after every exhibition. Many thanks spamcan61 - I tried every other name I could think of for a link... then took a photo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted June 9, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 9, 2011 The 0 gauge layout I used to exhibit had five points four of which worked as two crossovers. A small black box abot 100x50 mm with three switches and bipolar leds for indicators taped to the back of the hand held controller on a wander lead. Very convenient. I don't seem to have a picture and the layout was given to a friend. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Hi Bob, As you like the computer screen idea, here is what I use for Willaston Road. Hope you enjoy Silverstone. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushVeteran Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Here is my contribution to the control panel gallery. This shows one of four panels in my loft. I have another like the one shown which also incorporates a rampmeter to show amps consumption. Two smaller panels control yards at each end. The layout track control is Lenz DCC but with over 250 points to control I have opted for rotary switch control (which at least shows which way the road is set) protected by CDU's. DCC point control would have just been too costly. The power outputs for the point and lighting controls are fed through Gaugemaster transformers. I have also sectioned most of the track power bus feeds as I find it quicker to find a problem by progressively turning the power off! Like a lot of people I know with layouts, it is too big (34ft x 10ft) for me to operate properly on my own and I still have more stock than I can fit on the layout! Loads of wiring but I have tried to be neat and each control panel has its own drop board and each point feed has a termination identification. But it does work quite well and I am enjoying building it (which is what it is all about). The only thing I would really like to add is some form of track occupancy detector in my hidden sidings underneath. Fortunately my 11 year old son knows more about the set up than I do and is also more nimble! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pointstaken Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 No photos (it's too disgusting to put on this forum). Jpeg from XtrkCad, glued to a piece of thin ply with Prittstick. Holes drilled by my pet woodworm for LEDs and switches. The less said about the wiring the better ! Dennis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted June 9, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 9, 2011 Control panels for Felton Lane, basic plastic boxes from RS. The left one is for uncoupling magnets, rotary switch selects the required mag and the push button energises it, this one now has the track diagram drawn on it with the point letters and magnet numbers on it. The right panel is for the points and has the controller socket on it. Seen on the floor is the power supply unit, complete with red 'on' light and fuses. And the panels open. Amazingly neat for me!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordhinton Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Hello. I like these 'show and tell' type of threads. Below is the control panel I made for Highclere. The intention is to operate the layout at night hence the engraved clear plastic and LEDs mounted along the edges which is quite effective. Missy that is the best damn control panel i have ever seen , i may have to become freinds with you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomKett Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Hi Guys, I have another post discussing the best ways of operating the point motors from my control panel see here - Post: Best way to wire the point motors My panel will be hosted on an internal website, but for now I have it hosted on an external website to allow for people to have a play and provide any feedback. My Control Panel Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Didn't pick up on this thread until I was searching the forum for advice on which colour LEDs I might use for the control panel I have. So basically I've got a point indicator board, which came with green and red LEDs. However I'd tried to give the panel a signal box feel by painting it off white, beige, cream sort of colour. So the question is what colour of LED might be appropriate? So I was thinking possibly yellow but they seem too yellow, so perhaps warm white might be better? Any thoughts or advice how those two colours might look on the panel above? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Old thread this, but I have just completed the bulk of my panel, so thought I would post! Track control is dcc, points and anything else conventional dc. The panel is 3mm gloss white perspex, with some very thin whiteboard tape for the track diagram. Traditional miniature toggles, 3mm LED's mounted in chrome holders. It has proved extremely satisfying to build. Regards, Lee. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveblueozzie Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Just seen this thread ,brilliant, i have just started my first layout ,not even got all the track i need yet i am going straight into dcc ,got a gaugemaster prodigy control, but i like the thought of switching the points myself rather than pushing buttons on the controller, i have probably got a dozen points to fit and i have the peco points motors, the question is how do i control each motor from the switch on the panel, what goes inbetween the switch and the point to allow me to do this. I know it need a burst of power for a short period of time to switch the points. Sorry for the dumb question. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hi daveblueozzie. Most of what you're asking is on my web sites Electrical pages. Link at the bottom of this reply. Basically, you'll need a power supply capable of delivering ideally at least 16 volts ac at 1.0Amp or higher. Next ideally a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU) though this item isnt essential, just a 'good to have' item that provides a extra beefy pulse of power to the motors coil and stops accidental coil burn out. Then some means of switching the power momentarily to the motor. This can be by a passing contact lever - Peco PL36 mounts in a frame or panel. Cheaper is non locking sprung to centre off toggle switches or two momentary press to make push buttons per motor, or even Studs and Probe. Wire - minimum size of 16/0.2mm or larger size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveblueozzie Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 (edited) Wow, information overload on your website, i clicked on to the appropriate section and I'm sure my next door neighbours heard me swear. quick question before i book a day off work to read it all, do i only need one capacitor for all the motors. Edited March 5, 2012 by daveblueozzie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250BOB Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Wow, information overload on your website, i clicked on to the appropriate section and I'm sure my next door neighbours heard me swear. quick question before i book a day off work to read it all, do i only need one capacitor for all the motors. Yes, just one capacitor does all you will need. Brians website has been a great help to me as well. Bob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveblueozzie Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 (edited) There are mention of toggle switches and momentary buttons, as a complete moron, can anyone suggest which might suit a beginner like me. and if possible a link to where to buy. There is also mention of 16 to 24 volt supply, something like a phone charger or similar. Edited March 5, 2012 by daveblueozzie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Hi Dave Hope your neighbour has recovered ;) Only one CDU is normally needed for the whole layout. Point operating switches can be of the sprung to centre off toggle switch type, often called (On)-Off-(On) where the switch cannot remain in the bracketed (On) position once the lever is released. Or you can use two press to make non locking push button switches per point. Or the old favourite of Stud and Probe selection. My choice is to use the sprung to centre off toggle switch. As for a power supply a phone charger probably won’t be of any use as normally these only give out around 5 volts dc and you need as a minimum 16 volts ac. Assuming a CDU is going to be used, then you can use an old train set controller that has an Uncontrolled 16 volt ac output (not the Track output which is dc) Or about the cheapest power supply to buy new is the Hornby C990 16v ac unit from ebay sellers, at around £9.50ish new. All the best Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpman46 Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Dave For sprung to centre off toggle switches try Rapid http://www.rapidonline.com Part No: 75-0086 Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) (On)-(Off)-(On). For power supply Gaugemaster http://www.gaugemaster.com do a WM1 Plug in Transformer giving 16V ac @1.1A, bit more expensive than the Hornby but possibly worth a search to see if anyone does it at a discount. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveblueozzie Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I have noticed that some panels have led lights to let you know the points are switched, if the switch and the points are not continuously powered how do you get the led lights to stay on. I can understand the switch turning it on ,but wouldn't it go off when the toggle switch goes back to the off position, am i being thick ,or am i missing the obvious answer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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