gordon s Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 I've been working on Eastwood 2 for the last couple of days and whilst this board is still to be finished, I thought I would take the opportunity to test various wheel standards running through a complex switched double junction and show you the results. The technical data is as follows: Plain track. SMP 00 flexi straight from the box. 16.5mm gauge. Code 75. Turnouts. Handbuilt on Templot templates. Double sided PCB sleeper strip 1.06mm x 4mm. All switches made to 00-SF standard and then flared out to 16.5mm gauge to join with SMP plain track. Loco 1. Bachmann WD, donkey's years old on standard Bachmann wheels. 2.8mm tread and B2B of 14.30mm - 14.40mm. Loco 2. Bachmann class 37 with mofified body to represent 37/9. Standard chassis and standard Bachmann wheels. 2.75mm tread and B2B of 14.35mm to 14.50mm. Loco 3. Fiatrains LMS Twin. Fitted with latest Ultrascale wheels. 2.3mm tread. B2B of 14.70mm - 14.80mm. I'll leave you to draw your own conclusions, but hopefully this will demonstrate the strength of 00-SF. These turnouts are taking a wide range of wheels with no changes to the factory set B2B measurement. 00-SF is the only track system that I am aware of that will accommodate a wide range of wheel standards and yet give improved running without having to adjust the wheels. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70b2nbskMKM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share Posted June 8, 2011 Brilliant. Thanks for posting that. Inspires more confidence in the scale. Regards, Lee. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted June 8, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 8, 2011 Hi Gordon, That's great. Thanks for uploading it. p.s. if you want to post it on YMR or Templot Club, ignore the stuff from YouTube and paste this into your post: [flash=480,385]http://www.youtube.com/v/70b2nbskMKM[/flash] regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Plaudits from me too, Gordon. With Eastwood one never misses the odd mm - it doesn't look "narrow gauge" at all. BUT - I was hoping to see the Erie Triplex trundling across your pointwork. Quick question: my Wife just bought me a Weber soldering iron with the variable temperature control (and I believe you use a similar one but not Weber), what temperature setting do you use for trackwork construction? No I haven't read the instructions, natch. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 The key for me Pete, is to get heat into the area to be joined as quickly as possible, so I have the temp on my 50W iron set at the maximimum of 425 degrees C. My soldering station is made by Antex (TC660) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted June 9, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2011 Brian Tulley can provide all of these for 00-SF. He designed them and supplies them at cost from the toolmaking firm who make them, and is providing an excellent service in supporting 00-SF users for no personal gain. So a big thank you is due to Brian for that. regards, Martin. Hi Martin, Many thanks but the thanks should be heading in your direction I think. After all, it was you that brought 00-sf back to the attention of the masses! Also, it was your input (many times IIRC!) that helped determine the dimensions of the Gauges. All I do is the odd trip to the post office now and then Kind Regards, Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 I posted this 3 days ago, and it hasn't appeared, so here goes agoin. Just been adding some additional touches to our Club's new freight yard. All in 16.2mm. With Templot, or course! Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Very nice work. C and L components? What did you use to construct your tiebars? Regards, Lee. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Taz Posted June 13, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 13, 2011 Impressive work. That looks like Exactoscale chairs to me. But what sleepers are you using? Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted June 13, 2011 Share Posted June 13, 2011 Thanks for the comments, guys. Chairs are indeed Exactoscale, so are the wooden sleepers, stained with diluted Precision 'Weathered Wood'. Tiebars are 1mm double sided copperclad turned on its side. It fits between the blades, not under them, then there are cut outs each side allowing it to pass under the stock rails and prevent the blades lifting. It's clear to me. Hope it's clear to you. If not, I will be making another couple in the next few days and I will take a shot or two. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ427 Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Hi All, I am in a similar predicament to Lee in that I've purchased a lot of C&L OO flexi with the intention of making my own pointwork. However, in complete ignorance of the different OO standards I've bought the code 75 roller gauges from Markits (4TRGOO). Does anyone know to what standard they conform? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted June 16, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2011 in complete ignorance of the different OO standards I've bought the code 75 roller gauges from Markits (4TRGOO). Does anyone know to what standard they conform? Hi Andrew, An email to Markits would confirm, but Romford are a long-established model firm and have been making these roller gauges for many years. The presumption would be that they are to the traditional 00-BF (BRMSB) standard. This would tend to be confirmed by their 00 Back-to-Back gauge, quoted at 14.5mm which is the traditional BRMSB dimension. regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ427 Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Thanks Martin. That makes sense. I'll email them anyway just to be sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Very nice work. C and L components? What did you use to construct your tiebars? Regards, Lee. Hi Lee. I said I would be making a couple more tiebars in an earlier post and here they are. I think a picture is worth a thousand words so here are a few pics in order of construction. I use copper-clad fibreglass not paxolin. The strips are 3mm wide but I just cannot, for the life of me, remember where I got them from. Perhaps someone else reading this will know. The first two shots show how the tiebars start life. The tiebar has been blacked with Gun Blue and then cleaned in areas where solder is the go The tiebar has now been tinned ready for soldering. On the other side there are only two solder points, of course. Two shots of the control tubing ready to be fitted, and then fitted on. Some old point control tube. What the tiebar looks like before fitting to the point. Fitted to the point. The wood strip under the tiebar keeps it up against the stock rails and the wooden sleeper behind the blade keeps it from becoming soldered to the stock rail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Do you gap the copperclad? if not, doesn't it short? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Thanks. That should read 'don't forget to gap the copperclad. Do it each side of the control tube so there are no voltages reaching the drive wire (we use tortoise motors) as you never know what might touch that wire when you are under the layout sorting a problem'. Sorry to leave that out. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefrk Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Do you gap the copperclad? if not, doesn't it short? Hi, I think I can see a break on the copper clad Jon... so it must have been done. I've been making my (and other's) tie bars this way for years and I've not had a breakage in that time, although I do the fixing from tiebar to rail differently. I use a piece of 0.45 wire soldered to the blade and the other end soldered to the tie bar near the centre, allowing for the afore mentioned gap with about 5mm free play between solder points, I'll post a pic sometime but all mine are finished so it would have to be in situ. I seem to remember writing it up on E4um IIRC. Dave Franks, www.lanarkshiremodels.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefrk Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Hi, I think I can see a break on the copper clad Jon... so it must have been done. I've been making my (and other's) tie bars this way for years and I've not had a breakage in that time, although I do the fixing from tiebar to rail differently. I use a piece of 0.45 wire soldered to the blade and the other end soldered to the tie bar near the centre, allowing for the afore mentioned gap with about 5mm free play between solder points, I'll post a pic sometime but all mine are finished so it would have to be in situ. I seem to remember writing it up on E4um IIRC. Dave Franks, www.lanarkshiremodels.com Oops Jon, I see Dave has already answered this.... Dave Franks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 I'm going to get confused with all these Daves! I thought I could see a gap in the last photo, but it wasn't mentioned so wasn't sure. I rather thought it had to be there. It looks like a neat solution - I'm thinking of 00-SF pointwork for my Southern third rail stock (The EPB's don't easily convert to EM) and was puzzling over the details. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefrk Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Here, as promised a photo of my tiebars which I've done in OO EM and P4 over the past fifteen years or so. The 1.5mm deep tiebar is made in a similar way and the copperclad fibreglass is chamfered along the top edge of the far away side where it runs under the rails so the operating tube remains insulated and there is no need for a gap. The 0.45 wire is made full width and soldered in the middle section of the tiebar which is then wiggled into place and the blades checked for gauge, the tiebar is removed and the gap cut in the centre with a triangular file, the tiebar is then re-fitted and a card packer is used to hold it up tight to the rails as the previous poster has done and the solder joint to the blades is made. If I've made the tiebar correctly there is a slight 'spring' pressure holding the blades down on the slide chairs and the tiebar up under the stockrails. The vertical tube for the Tortoise operating rod is the same as Dave has done. Below is an earlier design from years ago (yes the layout has been on the go for a long time!!!) which is not so neat but it shows how I unnecessarily used to file away the copperclad towards the ends of the tiebar to avoid shorting. Now I leave as much copperclad as possible for strength and peace of mind, though I haven't had one fail yet, now where's that bit of wood to touch...... All the best, Dave Franks www.lanarkshiremodels.com Jon, OO-SF? and I though you were P4.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Very nice, Dave. I'm going to have a go at that. Cheers Dave (Smith) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 ... Jon, OO-SF? and I though you were P4.... Mainly HO US these days! Not done any P4 for a long time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Guys, hello. It has been a little while since I originally started this thread, but I have been beavering away this week, and thought I would post my progress. I built my first point to standard oo gauge. It came with a ready made common crossing. I found it reasonably straightforward to make up, and a test bogie ran through it ok. Nice and smooth. As discussed earlier in the thread, I decided to go oo sf, and received the gauges in the post the other week. Tonight after a few evenings work, I tried to complete my first turnout in this scale. The easy bits. Laying the sleepering. stock rails. Soldering the v up. (Admittedly pre-milled to the correct angle.) Fixing the switch rails. Again, as above. The hard bits. Chairing up the v. Aligning the wing rails. Constructing a working tie bar. Soldering up and strengthening all the rails of the common crossing. Chairing up the v.I found it very difficult to put enough chairs in place to securely site the v. I ended up aralditing the half chairs in place, but still felt this wasn't really strong enough. Aligning the wing rails. I aligned everything up using the gauges, and by looking along the track to make sure the alignment is correct. The tie bar. I just found this incredibly fiddly as opposed to difficult, I used Normon Solomons method of a copperclad strip, and right angled bent brass pins. Soldering up and strengthening all the rails of the common crossing. In short, a complete nightmare. To strengrhen everything up, and prevent any movement, I tried to solder a very narrow piece of copperclad from underneath the point, to the tip of the v, and the wing rails. I used Carrs solder and flux, and a nice hot iron. Try as I might, I simply could not get all of the rails soldered to the copperclad in one go. The heat has also moved something out of alignment, so its not running as well as it was. Could someone please explain if there is a simple way to go about this, as quite frankly, this bit has done my head in. I spent ages trying to get this turnout right, and feel I have ballsed it up right at the last stage. In conclusion, I am not really sure how I feel about all of this. I love the look of the finer scale stuff, that goes without saying. But, I have found it very difficult and time consuming, just to produce one turnout. I have a lot to build. I am itching to actually get some track down and get something running. I am a bit doubtful in my own mind, as to whether I am capable of building a largeish quantity of points, and getting them running to a decent standard. The one I have built is not as smooth as the previously constructed pre built common crossing, but I just can't see how I can improve on what I have built, as I feel as though I am at my limit as far as skill is concerned. I really am wondering if I should go down this route, and whether I would be better off going for the usual commercial ready made stuff.tThe big benefit for me would be time saved, and something that runs well without hours and hours of fiddling.Maybes I am just too impatient, and need to accept that I have to go down the ready made route? Has anyone else been through this dilemma? Regards, Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Hi, Don't give up just yet. 1) You are using a 00 template instead of an 00-SF -which is why the vee is not quite in the right place - best to get Templot 2) After laying out the timbers superglue suitable copperclad or brass strips of the correct thickness to the crossing timbers (you need 3) so that one will be under the knuckle, one under the vee and the third one on the next timber. They need to be long enough to extend slightly beyond the outer edges of the rail. 4) Martin has provided an excellent guide on how to make vees on the Templot Group 5) place the rear chairs on the first vee rail and solder to the strips and so on This should result in an accurate and strong common crossing. 6) add the Check Rails 7)add the point blades 8)Add the stock rails. 9)Trim any excess copperclad off 10) Add cosmetic, slide rail chairs etc If all else fails buy one ready made and see if you can copy it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Rather than Stephen's method i'd recommend replacing the plastic sleeper under the crossing nose with a 0.8mm thick copperclad one and putting the shim on top of that. You can also make sure the checkrails don't move in that method. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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