Any Question Answered

[John57sharp]

did you drill a small hole through the centre of the muff?

 

Nick

A timely tip if ever there was one. Just about to use my first muffs...

[Wyvern]

I have now put a lable on my quartering tool to remind me 

[Valentin]

I am attempting to build a SECR Class H from a reduced 4mm Jidenco Kit. I am at the stage where I have to join the trailing bogie to the main chassis (see the pictures below). What would be the best approach?

 

From this:

 

 

To this:

 

 

Thank you,

[Chris Higgs]

I am attempting to build a SECR Class H from a reduced 4mm Jidenco Kit. I am at the stage where I have to join the trailing bogie to the main chassis (see the pictures below). What would be the best approach?

 

From this:

 

 

To this:

 

 

Thank you,

 

As you have deduced, there is not much room for the pivot. If you want to, I would suggest using the Mike Raithby style metal spacers with thin PCB at the ends to provide a stronger spacer.

 

However, you are going to find it difficult to make the loco run well, due to the dynamics of an 0-4-4T. It is likely to have the rear end swing about without some side control from the bogie. Also you either need to narrow the frames at the rear or make the wheel cutouts larger to clear the bogie wheels, unless it only needs to travel in a straight line.

I do believe that Pete Townsend motorised such a loco using the Association 14XX chassis. An 0-4-2-2T arriangment is likely to run better, and perhaps makes it easier to mount a rear pony truck rather than a rear bogie. 

 

Chris

[oily]

Regarding the comment from Chris - Also you either need to narrow the frames at the rear or make the wheel cutouts larger to clear the bogie wheels, unless it only needs to travel in a straight line.

 

There's good photo showing such cutouts for bogie wheels in Magazine Aug/Sept 2013 page 8 (Photo 9)

In that example looks as if just a simple bolt used as the bogie pivot.

Oliver

Edited August 25, 2017 by oily

[Caley Jim]

I am attempting to build a SECR Class H from a reduced 4mm Jidenco Kit. I am at the stage where I have to join the trailing bogie to the main chassis (see the pictures below). What would be the best approach?

 

On both my 0-4-4T's the bogie has a pcb stretcher with a 12BA clearing slot across the centre of it and a little ring of fine wire, lying across the way, on top of each side frame.  The bogie pivot is a 12BA bolt screwed into a perspex spacer n the chassis.  This wasn't tapped right through so that the blt can be tightened into it.  Two finger springs of 10thou p/b wire are attached to the loco frames in the firebox area.  The ends of these go in the little rings.    The springs press down on the bogie and everything is adjusted by tightening up the screw until the chassis sits level.  The bogie can then both pivot and slide laterally, how much of thelatter you need depends on your minimum radius.

 

The springs do three things:

1)  they support the rear of the loco.

2)  by being engaged in the rings they provide a degree of lateral control of the bogie, reducing the rear end swing

3)  they carry the current from the bogie wheels to the chassis.

 

HTH,

 

Jim 

[oily]

On both my 0-4-4T's the bogie has a pcb stretcher with a 12BA clearing slot across the centre of it and a little ring of fine wire, lying across the way, on top of each side frame.  The bogie pivot is a 12BA bolt screwed into a perspex spacer n the chassis.  This wasn't tapped right through so that the blt can be tightened into it.  Two finger springs of 10thou p/b wire are attached to the loco frames in the firebox area.  The ends of these go in the little rings.    The springs press down on the bogie and everything is adjusted by tightening up the screw until the chassis sits level.  The bogie can then both pivot and slide laterally, how much of thelatter you need depends on your minimum radius.

 

The springs do three things:

1)  they support the rear of the loco.

2)  by being engaged in the rings they provide a degree of lateral control of the bogie, reducing the rear end swing

3)  they carry the current from the bogie wheels to the chassis.

 

HTH,

 

Jim 

Absolutely agree with Jim's comments, more or less identical to my 0-4-4T. I'd put them in reverse order though as 3 for me is crucial in order to double the number of wheels picking up current. And 1 I'd put last as I always think you need as much weight on drivers as possible.

Oliver

[Caley Jim]

.......... And 1 I'd put last as I always think you need as much weight on drivers as possible.

The points were in no particular order, in fact as far as I am concerned they are of equal importance.

 

Regarding getting weight over the drivers, both of mine have open frame motors, an old Minitrix in the 439 class (it's over 40 years old) and a Branchlines minimotor in the 171 class, and both extend into the bunker. Despite both having had their boilers and smokeboxes filled with molten lead, there is still a fair bit of weight at the back needing to be supported by the bogie.

 

Jim

[Chris Higgs]

As you have deduced, there is not much room for the pivot. If you want to, I would suggest using the Mike Raithby style metal spacers with thin PCB at the ends to provide a stronger spacer.

 

However, you are going to find it difficult to make the loco run well, due to the dynamics of an 0-4-4T. It is likely to have the rear end swing about without some side control from the bogie. Also you either need to narrow the frames at the rear or make the wheel cutouts larger to clear the bogie wheels, unless it only needs to travel in a straight line.

I do believe that Pete Townsend motorised such a loco using the Association 14XX chassis. An 0-4-2-2T arriangment is likely to run better, and perhaps makes it easier to mount a rear pony truck rather than a rear bogie. 

 

Chris

 

Unless I am mistaken, where you have the spur axle for the wormwheel is also going to leave it painfully visible below the boiler? The tank front is quite far back on these locos.

 

Chris

[nick_bastable]

I built the association M7 as a 0-4-2-2 as it was designed as  a option, it works a first for me  but its ability to pull anything  is pathetic, however if i recall it is better to gear the rear wheel on a  0-4-4 cropped up in a recent discussion on this board  

 

Nick

 

edit pp spelling

Edited August 27, 2017 by nick_bastable

[Chris Higgs]

I built the association M7 as a 0-4-2-2 as it was designed as  a option, it works a first for me  but its ability to pull anything  is pathetic, however if i recall it is better to gear the rear wheel on a  0-4-4 cropped up in a recent discussion on this board  

 

Nick

 

edit pp spelling

 

Because motors are relatively light, putting them nearer the back would leave a bit more space at the front for something denser to put weight on the drivers. It is never going to amount to very much though.

 

However with an 0-4-whatever you are always backing a losing cause in the pulling power stakes. With a 4-4-0 the advice is always to use the tender to add extra weight onto the drivers, with a tank engine this is not an option.

 

Churs

[oily]

I built the association M7 as a 0-4-2-2 as it was designed as  a option, it works a first for me  but its ability to pull anything  is pathetic, however if i recall it is better to gear the rear wheel on a  0-4-4 cropped up in a recent discussion on this board  

 

Nick

 

edit pp spelling

I often run the M7 built as described in a series of articles a while back by Tony White. It has the motor over the bogie, built as a conventional bogie 0-4-4T, not as a 0-4-2-2T. It is driven on rear driver and inside the front of boiler over the drivers is a solid lead block, specially cast to fit. Pick up is superb and due presumably the to eight wheel pick ups, pulling power, well no problem either. I just tested it with a wagon loaded with pieces of lead, and it started and pulled away no problem, So rake of wagons or coaches not a problem either. He likes to keep things simple and it seems to work. He's a great fan of four coupled engines so quite experienced with scratchbuilding them, it's really all he makes these days, making a Bulldog at the moment. But he's not on Yahoo.

Oliver

[Valentin]

Thank you all for your input.

 

First I will try and use the simplest solution, just a bolt and, probably a spring (like those used inside the mechanical ball-pens, but much shorter) to push the bogie downward. If the running and / or pulling performance is poor, I will probably rebuild the chassis from P/B, as a 0-4-2-2, and drive the rear pair of driving wheels (I've choosen to drive the first pair, as I coppied the design of the replacement chassis for the M7, but I disregard the advice to build it as a 0-4-2-2).

[Chris Higgs]

Has anyone tried one of these hot-air soldering stations on modelling, such as etches. I'm considering getting one to replace a USB port on a phone I have, and wondered if it will have any other usages.

 

My initial thoughts are it probablty doesn't produce enough heat for items which are largely metal, but I'd love to be proved wrong.

 

Chris

[Donw]

Has anyone tried one of these hot-air soldering stations on modelling, such as etches. I'm considering getting one to replace a USB port on a phone I have, and wondered if it will have any other usages.

 

My initial thoughts are it probablty doesn't produce enough heat for items which are largely metal, but I'd love to be proved wrong.

 

Chris

 

Chris these seem to be offered with a range of wattages I suspect the small mass of 2mm parts means you could use one. For 7mm work I do have a Microflame unit which gives a very small diameter flame but very hot.

 

Don

[Ian Morgan]

I bought one for electronics work, but I have only used it once. It does get everything hot, eventually. Probably takes practice to get the best out of it. You are welcome to borrow it. Will you be at the AGM?

 

Ian Morgan

Hampshire

[Valentin]

Could anyone post a photo of the Association's "Turnout Blade filing jig" (1-230)? Is this jig suitable for filing the blades for all turnout types (1 in 6, 1 in 7, etc)?

 

Thank you,

[Jan W]

You can find information and a good photo in the information screen of the "Easitrac "Pegged" Turnout parts" in the shop 1 list.

Click on "link to 2017 article...."

 

Jan

[Valentin]

Many thanks, Jan.

 

As you mentioned, I've found all the information I needed here (Fig. 13, and Fig. 14).

[Donw]

Could anyone post a photo of the Association's "Turnout Blade filing jig" (1-230)? Is this jig suitable for filing the blades for all turnout types (1 in 6, 1 in 7, etc)?

 

Thank you,

 

Different blades can be used with any particular crossing size  so you can have an A7, B7 or C7 all with a 1:7 crossing. The Jig has settings for various blades. The jig uses a spacer to angle the filing blade to the correct setting. Moving the jig to another position will change the angle. It has setting for A,B,C and D  blades and will produce the correct planning for semi curved blades. 

Should you be modelling earlier straight switches  a 9ft switches uses the same 1:24 planning angle as an A switches, a 12ft switches at 1:32 matches the B switches, a 15ft Switch at 1:40 matches a C switch and an 18ft switches at 1:40 matches the D switch.

I used one in trials on the pegged turnouts. I found it quick and very easy to use producing an accurate result. GWR modellers should be producing fully curved switches which are not produced on the jig but to be honest I would advise sticking with semi curved switches unless you are very good at filing to a curve ( except the D switch which the GWR used a straight planed switch.

 

Don

 

Brain seems to have gone soft GWR switches the D switch and E switches were fully curved if was the F where the GWR stayed with the 30ft straight planned switch. Humble apologies if anyonme had nipped out and built one wrongly. I have actually only seen close up one D switch in model form. A friend built a model of Selby in 7mm. Selby had a D14 at one end of the station throat so that is what he built. In 2mm scale where space is usually less critical than larger scales it would be nice to see more C and D switches being built. C8 turnouts were quite common on passenger lines where a B6 or 7 was considered rather sharp

Edited September 21, 2017 by Donw

[oily]

Does anyone know where I can obtain a standard 8mm watchmakers collet (Boley, IME etc) size 55 or 56 or better still both.

I have searched eBay including USA without success and done a full internet search and can find nothing for either size.

Maybe someone has one they don't use perhaps?

Thanks

Oliver

[Mim]

What to make a J94 from?

The Association produce an etched J94 Austerity chassis designed for the old Farish body. The Farish shell looks quiet crude compared with their recent models. P&D Marsh produce a white metal body kit, originally designed for a Farish 08 chassis. There is a review of the Marsh kit in the August '86 edition of the association magazine, which is reasonably complimentary. Dimensions are not too far out for 2mm scale.

 

Has anyone used the P&D Marsh kit and Association chassis etch to produce a J94? Would this be a better route to take than acquiring and detailing a Farish body shell? I am thinking white metal is going to provide more weight.

 

Mim

[Graham R]

Does anyone know where I can obtain a standard 8mm watchmakers collet (Boley, IME etc) size 55 or 56 or better still both.

I have searched eBay including USA without success and done a full internet search and can find nothing for either size.

Maybe someone has one they don't use perhaps?

Thanks

Oliver

 

Assuming you mean WW by "standard" ... Sherline do WW collets including these sizes at 18 dollars a pop ... according to a table in "The Watchmaker's and Model Engineer's Lathe" (de Carle) WW are identical dimensions as Boley 8mm collets and 2mm shorter overall, 7 thou smaller thread OD, than IME 8mm collets. Sherline collets are not hardened.

 

regards

Graham

 

Edit - I meant to add, Sherline collets are available in the UK from Millhill Supplies at £17.30. I have never ordered from Millhill but am happy with my Sherline kit bought direct from the factory about 15 years ago.

Edited September 25, 2017 by Graham R

[queensquare]

What to make a J94 from?

The Association produce an etched J94 Austerity chassis designed for the old Farish body. The Farish shell looks quiet crude compared with their recent models. P&D Marsh produce a white metal body kit, originally designed for a Farish 08 chassis. There is a review of the Marsh kit in the August '86 edition of the association magazine, which is reasonably complimentary. Dimensions are not too far out for 2mm scale.

 

Has anyone used the P&D Marsh kit and Association chassis etch to produce a J94? Would this be a better route to take than acquiring and detailing a Farish body shell? I am thinking white metal is going to provide more weight.

 

Mim

If you have a look on page 13 of my Highbury/Foxcote thread (link in the signature below) you will see the Austerity I built. Mine uses the P&D Marsh kit with a new, brass footplate and other details on the Association chassis. I'm very pleased with how it turned out although I used the Marsh kit on the basis I had one! I have now picked up a Farish body which I will convert at some point, I have one of the Lampton detail etches fromRT models.

To be honest both routes have their issues and need work so I don't think it makes a great deal of odds.

 

Jerry

[Mim]

Thanks Jerry,

I tried a search, but missed your post somehow. Looks like either path can be used to produce an acceptable model with a bit of work.

 

Mim