Any Question Answered

[Kylestrome]

Interesting discussion regarding pinpoint bearings. Does anyone know what kind/size of tool is used to machine the tapered recess?

 

David

[chrisveitch]

Been there, done that, no one contributed. So it got binned some years ago.

 

Chris

 

 

Agreed, a quick search or, if that fails, a question here will illicit an answer to most questions pretty quickly. I don't think it really matters if the most commonly asked questions are repeated from time to time. Hours spent compiling a list or some sort of index is much better spent getting on and making stuff.

As for hosting such things in the members area - why hide it away? I'm all for making everything (except the shops which are our greatest asset) available to all, including the 2mm mag.

The most commonly asked question seems to me to be ' what is the password!'........ and as for the Yahoo group well that's a complete waste of time. Its slow and clunky, only lets you in when it feels like it, isn't searchable as far as I can tell and understandably very few people bother with it anymore.

 

Jerry

 

 

The Groups.io platform has a very capable and easy wiki facility - but I think we've been around the houses a few times with a discussion over a move to there from Yahoo,and it seems like it's not considered popular or worthwhile. 

 

And yes Jerry, I'd agree that Yahoo is completely pants. 

[Nigelcliffe]

The Groups.io platform has a very capable and easy wiki facility - but I think we've been around the houses a few times with a discussion over a move to there from Yahoo,and it seems like it's not considered popular or worthwhile. 

 

And yes Jerry, I'd agree that Yahoo is completely pants. 

 

There is a plan to maybe go to move the VAG to groups.io.  A placeholder group exists on groups.io, and there has been quite a bit of behind the scenes planning.  But those who do the admin have other stuff to do as well, so getting to a good time to discuss definitive "move or don't move" decision with the VAG is another matter.

 

As for other technology things, wikis and the like, pretty much anything can be deployed on the 2mm website very quickly.  But, getting people to actually contribute useful content is another matter.   Any sensible proposal is unlikely to be blocked, but equally those who've been around a while are naturally cautious about "do it with this tech", when the problem is actually "get content and contributions" which is largely irrelevant to the technology used.

 

 

- Nigel

[Steven Draper]

My 2mm membership pack arrived last week just before the snow and I've been spending some time flicking through the magazine articles archived online in between creating a dedicated modelling space at home, selling OO and picking up a few tools and N gauge bits like the latest 64xx and a rather nice RTC set. 

I have to say, on the one hand the magazines show that there is certainly a degree of effort, knowledge and acquired modelling skill required to achieve the improved looks and running, it also feels that the access to such a wealth of information via the 2mm association means that much of this can be learnt in small bite sized chunks as and when is needed - Phew !! 

I do have a couple of basic questions though.

 

• Is a layout that is largely RTR N gauge models converted to 2mm standard wheel sets classified the same as a model that uses purely 2mm scale kits and scratch built products.

 

• Can a RTR wagon body fit an appropriate 2mm chassis kit if finer under frame details / better running is required ?

 

• Does anyone use fine chain to emulate 3 link couplings on fixed wagon rakes that don't reverse ? I've found some old articles but nothing much recently so is something between 1.5 and 2mm for the links about right.

Lots of other questions, but I'll see how many answers I can find in the back issues before asking here 8^) 

Many Thanks, Steven

[richbrummitt]

My 2mm membership pack arrived last week just before the snow and I've been spending some time flicking through the magazine articles archived online in between creating a dedicated modelling space at home, selling OO and picking up a few tools and N gauge bits like the latest 64xx and a rather nice RTC set. 

 

I have to say, on the one hand the magazines show that there is certainly a degree of effort, knowledge and acquired modelling skill required to achieve the improved looks and running, it also feels that the access to such a wealth of information via the 2mm association means that much of this can be learnt in small bite sized chunks as and when is needed - Phew !! 

 

I do have a couple of basic questions though.

• Is a layout that is largely RTR N gauge models converted to 2mm standard wheel sets classified the same as a model that uses purely 2mm scale kits and scratch built products.

• Can a RTR wagon body fit an appropriate 2mm chassis kit if finer under frame details / better running is required ?

• Does anyone use fine chain to emulate 3 link couplings on fixed wagon rakes that don't reverse ? I've found some old articles but nothing much recently so is something between 1.5 and 2mm for the links about right.

Lots of other questions, but I'll see how many answers I can find in the back issues before asking here 8^) 

 

Many Thanks, Steven

 

Yes,

 

Yes,

 

And yes.

[Llangerisech]

Hello Steven,

 

Well I, along with various others, do both converted RTR and scratch approaches. My 1930s approach is mainly scratch/kit and most items are built to true 2mm scale. On the other hand, I have 1960s and 1970s periods which are nearly completely converted RTR, but it's the same layout and no-one complains! Some N gauge stuff is closer to 1:152, others slightly chubby compared to 1:148, so even using RTR you get as much discrepancy as you do when mixing 2mm kits and RTR. Just be careful with some of the more blatent oddities, but other than that, just do what looks right. Wagons usually get away with a lot and only really coach heights show up the two approaches. Unless you have two of the same type to the different scales next to each other, folk don't see it. RTR wagons bodies can be put onto 2mm chassis kits for a better look. There is a kit for the Peco underframe (also fits some Dapol), but some of the Farish Blue riband is pretty good as it comes out the box, so just drop in wheels will be acceptable until you get the urge to replace the whole shebang.

 

Nigel A

Edited March 8, 2018 by Llangerisech

[Chris Higgs]

Interesting discussion regarding pinpoint bearings. Does anyone know what kind/size of tool is used to machine the tapered recess?

 

David

 

 

They are made by a professional company, although I don't know the details.

 

My current role in the real world is working on software for a German machine tool company. I went on a tour of their Bavarian factory, and although at a totally different scale to these bearings, you cannot imagine just how fantastic the tools these automated machines use are.

 

Chris

[Steven Draper]

Hi Nigel, 

Thanks for answering and I agree much of the latest RTR wagons looks pretty good, especially with some weathering. I suspect fine scale wheel, and DG couplings for shunt able wagons or some kind of links on fixed rakes will improve things further. 

I've some oldies, a few wobblers and some that behave as if the brakes are on !! It might be that new wheels sort this out, but I suspect in some cases the plastic on the inside of the axle box is damaged generating too much slop. I also think a few wagon etches could be good soldering practice and probably a bit therapeutic. I'll wait to see if they are addictive 8^)

I'll be sorting out an order early next week and hopefully the first things will be rolling soon 8^) 

 

 

Steven

[Lacathedrale]

 <removed>

Edited March 9, 2018 by Lacathedrale

[Izzy]

Hi Nigel, 

I also think a few wagon etches could be good soldering practice and probably a bit therapeutic. I'll wait to see if they are addictive 8^)

I'll be sorting out an order early next week and hopefully the first things will be rolling soon 8^) 

 

Steven

Although the latest Farish stuff is very good in all respects, wagons, locos, coaches, putting etched chassis under the wagons still makes a big difference to my mind. Do one and you’ll want the same for the rest I have found. Not always possible with all wagon types, which are usually those with awkward/non-standard axle lengths as well!

 

Izzy

[Caley Jim]

Welcome to the Association, Steven. As others have said it depends on what satisfies you whether you use rewheeled rtr or scratch built or a mixture. The prototype you're modelling comes into too, of course.

As far as 3 link couplings are concerned, my level of insanity was at one time such that I used 3 links operationally, but I eventually saw the error of my ways and switched to Alex Jacksons (some would say only a degree or so down the insanity scale). I still fit cosmetic 3 links, one reason I chose A/J's, and make them out of 10thou p/b wire which has first been softened by running it quickly through a soft flame (e g. a match). It is then coiled tightly round a strip of 20thou steel which has had a section at one end filed down to 2mm wide with rounded edges. The individual links are then cut from this (while the coil is still on the former), slid off and threaded together and onto the hook.

There is an article waaaaay back describing this, but I'm laid up with flu at the moment and not at the computer. I'll try and post a reference to it later.

 

Jim

[Phil Copleston]

<snip> Hours spent compiling a list or some sort of index is much better spent getting on and making stuff.

 

Jerry

 

Exactly! I quite agree, Jerry.

 

There's nowt like personal experience (and making mistakes) as a practical learning tool and simply getting on with it. Something I'm rediscovering all over again with my current 2mm layout project.   

 

Having said that, I always enjoyed browsing the old '2mm Handbook' - quite inspirational in its day. I still have my treasured and well-thumbed blue cover version. And there is still nothing like having a hardcopy in one's hand to refer to.

 

In fact, quite some years ago, a good friend of mine (you know who you are!) offered to revise the Assn. Handbook, cutting out all the irrelevant non-2mm sections (baseboards, wiring etc. as these are well covered elsewhere) and focussing on what is particular to modelling in 2mm scale. I thought that was an excellent approach.

 

But for various reasons, that attempt fell by the wayside. I think a loose-leaf, 'easily updated' format was also proposed, but I have never liked that idea. I like a proper book in my mitts! With the advent of the Internet, all sorts of alternatives to paper publishing are possible, of course. But for a good read and workbench manual, I still prefer a good ol' paper copy.

 

So, perhaps the '2mm Handbook' - at least as we once knew it - has had its day... Au revoir le manuel!

Edited March 9, 2018 by Phil Copleston

[Ian Morgan]

Experience is what you get, just after you needed it.

[Steven Draper]

Although the latest Farish stuff is very good in all respects, wagons, locos, coaches, putting etched chassis under the wagons still makes a big difference to my mind. Do one and you’ll want the same for the rest I have found. Not always possible with all wagon types, which are usually those with awkward/non-standard axle lengths as well!

 

Izzy

 

Many Thanks - I have a worrying suspicion you might be correct. But I also am very aware that I am a very slow builder of anything and compounded with long work hours and family am hoping I can achieve something slightly more than a glorified test plank before my eyesight or dexterity runs out - so some balance might have to be found ! 

 

That said I also get time in hotels..... and the advantage of the smaller scales is that modelling can be portable, I used to build ratio kits rather than enjoying the beaches of exotic places, although now days it is normally a generic travel lodge on some motorway junction. 

[Steven Draper]

Welcome to the Association, Steven. As others have said it depends on what satisfies you whether you use rewheeled rtr or scratch built or a mixture. The prototype you're modelling comes into too, of course.

As far as 3 link couplings are concerned, my level of insanity was at one time such that I used 3 links operationally, but I eventually saw the error of my ways and switched to Alex Jacksons (some would say only a degree or so down the insanity scale). I still fit cosmetic 3 links, one reason I chose A/J's, and make them out of 10thou p/b wire which has first been softened by running it quickly through a soft flame (e g. a match). It is then coiled tightly round a strip of 20thou steel which has had a section at one end filed down to 2mm wide with rounded edges. The individual links are then cut from this (while the coil is still on the former), slid off and threaded together and onto the hook.

There is an article waaaaay back describing this, but I'm laid up with flu at the moment and not at the computer. I'll try and post a reference to it later.

 

Jim

Thank You Jim,

 

I am certainly excited about some mini adventures in 2mm. Alex Jackson couplings are an option and I think some of the fence houses stock uses them. I think I can recall an article in MRJ from about 20 years ago too but could be wrong. I would not use real links on stock that was to be shunted but if it was formed into fixed rakes or for scenic wagons that just loiter around sidings for atmospheric purposes. Not that there are many on my proposed plan ! 

 

Sprung buffers anyone - now that may be a step too far ! 

[Phil Copleston]

...but I'm laid up with flu at the moment and not at the computer.

 

Jim

 

Oh no! Sorry to hear this. How rotten for you. Time for some armchair modelling? I recommend one of Wild Swan's layout planning books. Get well soon, Jim. 

[Hendreladis]

Thank You Jim,

 

I am certainly excited about some mini adventures in 2mm. Alex Jackson couplings are an option and I think some of the fence houses stock uses them. I think I can recall an article in MRJ from about 20 years ago too but could be wrong. I would not use real links on stock that was to be shunted but if it was formed into fixed rakes or for scenic wagons that just loiter around sidings for atmospheric purposes. Not that there are many on my proposed plan ! 

 

Sprung buffers anyone - now that may be a step too far ! 

'

Sprung buffers? Stewart Hine's 1961 articles on building a small prairie.

[Mr chapman]

Flirting with 2mm and looking at some of the easy starting conversions. Are there any plans for a drop in conversion for the Farish C class when it's released? Should be a simple six coupled job like the pannier That would swing it. Kent's my flavour

[queensquare]

Flirting with 2mm and looking at some of the easy starting conversions. Are there any plans for a drop in conversion for the Farish C class when it's released? Should be a simple six coupled job like the pannier That would swing it. Kent's my flavour

I would suspect so. The bearings, gears, muffs etc will be the same as those already available. All that will be required is an etch for coupling rods.

 

Jerry

[Mr chapman]

Oh dear... Better join and raise the colours then Thanks.

[Steven Draper]

'

Sprung buffers? Stewart Hine's 1961 articles on building a small prairie.

 

That is insane - I'll pretend I did not see this else I might spend the rest of my life trying  !!!!

[Caley Jim]

That is insane - I'll pretend I did not see this else I might spend the rest of my life trying !!!!

Insanity is a requirement for 2FS modelling! Did I not mention that earlier?

 

Jim

[Chris Higgs]

I would suspect so. The bearings, gears, muffs etc will be the same as those already available. All that will be required is an etch for coupling rods.

 

Jerry

 

Well, provided you disregard sorting the tender chassis and the driving wheel balance weights.

 

I half have in my mind that a C class has the same wheelbase as a GWR 57XX pannier?

 

Chris

[Chris Higgs]

That is insane - I'll pretend I did not see this else I might spend the rest of my life trying  !!!!

 

Hardly. Its just a bit of spring wire to hold the buffer shanks.

 

Now, Stewart Hine built his own motor for that Small Prairie. That you might consider insane.

 

Chris

[2mm Andy]

Well, provided you disregard sorting the tender chassis and the driving wheel balance weights.

 

I half have in my mind that a C class has the same wheelbase as a GWR 57XX pannier?

 

Chris

 

SECR coupled wheelbase 16'-6", 57xx wheelbase 15'-6" according to Wikipedia. The LMS Jinty has a 16'-6" wheelbase, but whether the rods are the same style is another matter.

 

To be honest, the cost of a new etch is not significant, and a custom one can cover things like balance weights and bufferbeam overlays (depending how big the cut-out for the N gauge coupling is).

 

The tender wheels should be do-able using the same process as the 4F. Unfortunately that project has been delayed due to Alan Smith having to spend a lot of time sorting out loco wheels, pcb sleepers and other products following the sad death of Bill Blackburn.

 

Andy