modfather Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Cheers Andy, I'll pm you an email address. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted May 20, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 20, 2018 I've just bagged a mint condition second hand Farish Black Five and have a couple of questions concerning it. Firstly, how on earth does one separate the loco from the tender? I have looked at it long and hard and it isn't at all obvious. Secondly, I would like to make the replacement Chris Higgs chassis. Are the instructions available online, so that I can order all the parts together? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted May 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2018 Secondly, I would like to make the replacement Chris Higgs chassis. Are the instructions available online, so that I can order all the parts together? David David, I've noticed that the instructions are only for the chassis' without outside valve gear along with a slightly more expansive set for the 08. More noticeable is the lack of an etch drawing or one showing the suggested drive requirements. Perhaps it would be best to contact Chris directly. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 (edited) David, I've noticed that the instructions are only for the chassis' without outside valve gear along with a slightly more expansive set for the 08. More noticeable is the lack of an etch drawing or one showing the suggested drive requirements. Perhaps it would be best to contact Chris directly. David The etch drawing and drive arrangement diagrams are attached. There also was a schematic showing and naming the various Walschaerts valve gear parts but that seems to have gone missing. Assembling the double-thickness frames using the jig is the same as covered by the generic instructions. I didn't ever write any instructions regarding the outside valve gear. That is because as far as the cylinders and motion are concerned, the design is directly copied from the Association Black 5 kit and it was my intention people should use that extensive guide. Unfortunately, that does not seem to be online anywhere... I suppose we will need to look into that. EDIT: the chassis arrangement is now updated to include a valve gear schematic Black 5 chassis arrangement.pdf Black 5 chassis parts.pdf LMS 4000 gallon tender chassis parts.pdf Chris Edited May 23, 2018 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted May 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2018 The etch drawing and drive arrangement diagrams are attached. There also was a schematic showing and naming the various Walschaerts valve gear parts but that seems to have gone missing. Assembling the double-thickness frames using the jig is the same as covered by the generic instructions. I didn't ever write any instructions regarding the outside valve gear. That is because as far as the cylinders and motion are concerned, the design is directly copied from the Association Black 5 kit and it was my intention people should use that extensive guide. Unfortunately, that does not seem to be online anywhere... I suppose we will need to look into that. EDIT: the chassis arrangement is now updated to include a valve gear schematic Black 5 chassis arrangement.pdf Black 5 chassis parts.pdf LMS 4000 gallon tender chassis parts.pdf Chris Thanks, Chris. That's excellent! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted May 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2018 Thanks, Chris. That's excellent! David What he said! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Are there any kits for the very common 5 plank BR open wagons with steel corrugated ends? There were lots of them built, but I can't find any kits for them. Am I missing something? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gingerbread Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Are there any kits for the very common 5 plank BR open wagons with steel corrugated ends? There were lots of them built, but I can't find any kits for them. Am I missing something? Stephen Harris may do one. His list at http://2mm.org.uk/small_suppliers/stephenharris/index.htm (which is dated July 2015) lists one for future release. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 The etch drawing and drive arrangement diagrams are attached. There also was a schematic showing and naming the various Walschaerts valve gear parts but that seems to have gone missing. Assembling the double-thickness frames using the jig is the same as covered by the generic instructions. I didn't ever write any instructions regarding the outside valve gear. That is because as far as the cylinders and motion are concerned, the design is directly copied from the Association Black 5 kit and it was my intention people should use that extensive guide. Unfortunately, that does not seem to be online anywhere... I suppose we will need to look into that. EDIT: the chassis arrangement is now updated to include a valve gear schematic Black 5 chassis arrangement.pdf Black 5 chassis parts.pdf LMS 4000 gallon tender chassis parts.pdf Chris I also have dug out these photos, most of which come from the original Black 5 kit instructions. The ones I have added (they are easy enough to spot) may be more of a hinderence than a help. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Are there any kits for the very common 5 plank BR open wagons with steel corrugated ends? There were lots of them built, but I can't find any kits for them. Am I missing something? The N Gauge Society sell the ex-Parkwood kit for the LMS 'highfit' (a 5 plank open with corrugated ends). http://www.ngsjoin.com/kit-47-br-ex-lmslner-highfits---twin-pack-ngsk0470-820-p.asp Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr chapman Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Anyone converted a Farish N class to 2mm? If so how did you it? Replacement chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Anyone converted a Farish N class to 2mm? If so how did you it? Replacement chassis? Use the same bearings and muffs as provided by the shops for other Farish conversions. You can use GWR pannier coupling rods, although I understand there are some etched replacements on the way (GWR rods being plain, whereas SR ones are fluted). Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr chapman Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Oh right, thanks what about the rest of the rods? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Oh right, thanks what about the rest of the rods? Just leave them? Or perhaps file them down a bit thinner. Building a complete set of outside valvegear is no simple task. IIRC John Greenwood's N class has retained the Farish valve gear. You do have to rebush the connecting rod somehow to make the hole smaller where is attaches to the crankpin. Nigel Ashton has a nice looking Dapol Brittania where he has preformed a minimalist conversion just replacing the coupling rods and rebushing the connecting rod. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr chapman Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Thanks for your patience. I'm still very new to 2mm and don't know what fly's and what doesn't. I didn't realize you can change out the wheels and retain the value gear. That's made for a less daunting task! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted May 27, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 27, 2018 I think someone has done this using original farish valve gears by tapping the wheels to I think 0.5mm and used the original crank pins but bu&&ered if I can remember who Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 I think someone has done this using original farish valve gears by tapping the wheels to I think 0.5mm and used the original crank pins but bu&&ered if I can remember who Nick This is possible. However I wouldn't recommend it as for me it is the oversize crankpins and resulting oversize bosses on the coupling rods that really spoil the look of the motion that Farish and Dapol locomotives come with. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted May 28, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 28, 2018 Hello everybody, I'm getting on with my first loco chassis, I've put the frames together and I've got the crankpins fitted, but now I've got to this bit of the instructions: 11. Now add the wheels to the chassis. The drive axles should have the final drive gear offset on an gear muff on the opposite side to the gearbox. The worm wheel stub axle should have the 30T worm wheel centralised, and a 14T spur gear offset. The wheels and stub axles are fitted in the usual 2mm manner (see the available notes on this from Bill Blackburn for details). Does anyone have a link to the notes from Bill Blackburn they can share? Does anyone have any tips for getting gears onto gear muffs straight and level? Thanks in advance Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisveitch Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 Not really a 2FS question as such, but does anyone know where to get hold of thin (about 4-6mm-ish) foam for lining stock boxes etc.? Regards, Chris Veitch Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 Not really a 2FS question as such, but does anyone know where to get hold of thin (about 4-6mm-ish) foam for lining stock boxes etc.? Regards, Chris Veitch You can get foam strip of around that thickness as draught-excluder strip for sticking round door, windows etc. It's 4mm thick and 7mm wide and has the benefit of having a smooth polythene face on its outer face, so won't catch on fine detail. The other face is self adhesive. You can see it in this photo. I got mine from B&Q. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 Thanks for your patience. I'm still very new to 2mm and don't know what fly's and what doesn't. I didn't realize you can change out the wheels and retain the value gear. That's made for a less daunting task! As Chris says, building outside valve gear in 2mm is no easy task. Even converting the Farish rods to fit 2mm wheels isn't for the faint-hearted - 2mm scale loco wheels are designed for 0.5mm diameter crankpins to be soldered or glued into place, whilst the Farish ones are a lot bigger diameter and threaded so as to screw into place, plus you've got to deal with the return crank on locos fitted with Walschaerts valve gear. I would strongly recomment starting with converting an inside-cylinder loco and working up from there, taking it one step at a time. When you do feel confident enough to tackle the valve gear, the etches as sold by Nigel Hunt (as listed in the small supplier's section of the 2mm website) are very reasonably priced, and come with pretty comprehensive instructions. Definitely worth joining an area group as well if you have one nearby. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 As Chris says, building outside valve gear in 2mm is no easy task. Even converting the Farish rods to fit 2mm wheels isn't for the faint-hearted - 2mm scale loco wheels are designed for 0.5mm diameter crankpins to be soldered or glued into place, whilst the Farish ones are a lot bigger diameter and threaded so as to screw into place, plus you've got to deal with the return crank on locos fitted with Walschaerts valve gear. I would strongly recomment starting with converting an inside-cylinder loco and working up from there, taking it one step at a time. When you do feel confident enough to tackle the valve gear, the etches as sold by Nigel Hunt (as listed in the small supplier's section of the 2mm website) are very reasonably priced, and come with pretty comprehensive instructions. Definitely worth joining an area group as well if you have one nearby. Andy Or just model somethng GWR - none of that dodgy valve gear stuff hanging off them! I am planning to try out using some M0.6 bolts I have as crankpins - so you can screw the crankpin nuts on and off. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 29, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 29, 2018 Or just model somethng GWR - none of that dodgy valve gear stuff hanging off them! I am planning to try out using some M0.6 bolts I have as crankpins - so you can screw the crankpin nuts on and off. Chris Unless you want a Steam Railmotor Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Llangerisech Posted May 29, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 29, 2018 Hi, Bit late to the question on this thread, but as Products officer I have been loaned an N class by one of the Wealden group members to attempt an etch for the rods. As Chris has said, you could use the Pannier rods to get something started as I am only at a very early stage with the artwork. However, the Farish valvegear is a fair bit chunkier than the Dapol ones, and while I'm happy leaving the valve gear on the Dapol Brit and Schools, the Farish N does look rather thick. As I have mentioned in the Products thread the intention is to make most rod sets available either as private members products such as Nigel Hunt's LMS stuff, or direct via the Association if unavailable elsewhere. So no deadline yet - I'm finishing off the Castle bits and bobs - but I don't want to leave the N too long. regards Nigel (putting head in noose again!) 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Hello everybody, I'm getting on with my first loco chassis, I've put the frames together and I've got the crankpins fitted, but now I've got to this bit of the instructions: 11. Now add the wheels to the chassis. The drive axles should have the final drive gear offset on an gear muff on the opposite side to the gearbox. The worm wheel stub axle should have the 30T worm wheel centralised, and a 14T spur gear offset. The wheels and stub axles are fitted in the usual 2mm manner (see the available notes on this from Bill Blackburn for details). Does anyone have a link to the notes from Bill Blackburn they can share? Does anyone have any tips for getting gears onto gear muffs straight and level? Thanks in advance Simon Simon, I have a feeling that Bill's notes are in a back-issue of the 2mm magazine. If you have the backnumbers DVD/USB stick, have a look on there. If not, I'll have a look this evening to see if I can find them. As regards getting gears onto muffs squarely, I've used a small vice in the past to press the gear onto the muff. It helps if you put a very slight countersink on the side of the gear that you are inserting the gear from (twist a large diameter drill bit by hand against the gear - one turn is usually enough) to remove any machining burrs and provide a start for the muff to be pressed into the gear. Some people advise pressing the wheels into the muffs with force, but I prefer to open out the muff very carefully so that the wheels can be pressed in without too much force. You need to drill a hole crosswise in the middle of the muff and when you have got the quartering and the back-to-back set, introduce a little glue into the hole (using the end of a pin or a bit of wire) to lock everything solid. Hope that helps. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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