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I've just bagged a mint condition second hand Farish Black Five and have a couple of questions concerning it.

 

Firstly, how on earth does one separate the loco from the tender? I have looked at it long and hard and it isn't at all obvious.

 

Secondly, I would like to make the replacement Chris Higgs chassis. Are the instructions available online, so that I can order all the parts together?

 

David

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Secondly, I would like to make the replacement Chris Higgs chassis. Are the instructions available online, so that I can order all the parts together?

 

David

 

David,

 

I've noticed that the instructions are only for the chassis' without outside valve gear along with a slightly more expansive set for the 08. More noticeable is the lack of an etch drawing or one showing the suggested drive requirements. Perhaps it would be best to contact Chris directly.

 

David

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David,

 

I've noticed that the instructions are only for the chassis' without outside valve gear along with a slightly more expansive set for the 08. More noticeable is the lack of an etch drawing or one showing the suggested drive requirements. Perhaps it would be best to contact Chris directly.

 

David

 

The etch drawing and drive arrangement diagrams are attached. There also was a schematic showing and naming the various Walschaerts valve gear parts but that seems to have gone missing.

 

Assembling the double-thickness frames using the jig is the same as covered by the generic instructions. I didn't ever write any instructions regarding the outside valve gear. That is because as far as the cylinders and motion are concerned, the design is directly copied from the Association Black 5 kit and it was my intention people should use that extensive guide. Unfortunately, that does not seem to be online anywhere... I suppose we will need to look into that.

 

EDIT: the chassis arrangement is now updated to include a valve gear schematic

 

Black 5 chassis arrangement.pdf

 

Black 5 chassis parts.pdf

 

LMS 4000 gallon tender chassis parts.pdf

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
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The etch drawing and drive arrangement diagrams are attached. There also was a schematic showing and naming the various Walschaerts valve gear parts but that seems to have gone missing.

 

Assembling the double-thickness frames using the jig is the same as covered by the generic instructions. I didn't ever write any instructions regarding the outside valve gear. That is because as far as the cylinders and motion are concerned, the design is directly copied from the Association Black 5 kit and it was my intention people should use that extensive guide. Unfortunately, that does not seem to be online anywhere... I suppose we will need to look into that.

 

EDIT: the chassis arrangement is now updated to include a valve gear schematic

 

attachicon.gifBlack 5 chassis arrangement.pdf

 

attachicon.gifBlack 5 chassis parts.pdf

 

attachicon.gifLMS 4000 gallon tender chassis parts.pdf

 

Chris

 

Thanks, Chris. That's excellent!

 

David

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The etch drawing and drive arrangement diagrams are attached. There also was a schematic showing and naming the various Walschaerts valve gear parts but that seems to have gone missing.

 

Assembling the double-thickness frames using the jig is the same as covered by the generic instructions. I didn't ever write any instructions regarding the outside valve gear. That is because as far as the cylinders and motion are concerned, the design is directly copied from the Association Black 5 kit and it was my intention people should use that extensive guide. Unfortunately, that does not seem to be online anywhere... I suppose we will need to look into that.

 

EDIT: the chassis arrangement is now updated to include a valve gear schematic

 

attachicon.gifBlack 5 chassis arrangement.pdf

 

attachicon.gifBlack 5 chassis parts.pdf

 

attachicon.gifLMS 4000 gallon tender chassis parts.pdf

 

Chris

 

I also have dug out these photos, most of which come from the original Black 5 kit instructions. The ones I have added (they are easy enough to spot) may be more of a hinderence than a help.

 

 

 

Chris

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Are there any kits for the very common 5 plank BR open wagons with steel corrugated ends? There were lots of them built, but I can't find any kits for them. Am I missing something?

 

The N Gauge Society sell the ex-Parkwood kit for the LMS 'highfit' (a 5 plank open with corrugated ends).

 

http://www.ngsjoin.com/kit-47-br-ex-lmslner-highfits---twin-pack-ngsk0470-820-p.asp

 

Andy

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Anyone converted a Farish N class to 2mm? If so how did you it? Replacement chassis?

 

Use the same bearings and muffs as provided by the shops for other Farish conversions. You can use GWR pannier coupling rods, although I understand there are some etched replacements on the way (GWR rods being plain, whereas SR ones are fluted).

 

Chris

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Oh right, thanks :) what about the rest of the rods?

 

Just leave them? Or perhaps file them down a bit thinner. Building a complete set of outside valvegear is no simple task. IIRC John Greenwood's N class has retained the Farish valve gear.

 

You do have to rebush the connecting rod somehow to make the hole smaller where is attaches to the crankpin. Nigel Ashton has a nice looking Dapol Brittania where he has preformed a minimalist conversion just replacing the coupling rods and rebushing the connecting rod.

 

Chris

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I think someone has done this using original farish valve gears by tapping the wheels to I think 0.5mm  and used the original crank pins 

 

but bu&&ered if I can remember who

 

Nick

 

This is possible. However I wouldn't recommend it as for me it is the oversize crankpins and resulting oversize bosses on the coupling rods that really spoil the look of the motion that Farish and Dapol locomotives come with.

 

Chris

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Hello everybody,

 

I'm getting on with my first loco chassis, I've put the frames together and I've got the crankpins fitted, but now I've got to this bit of the instructions:

 

11. Now add the wheels to the chassis. The drive axles should have the final drive gear offset on an gear muff on the opposite side to the gearbox. The worm wheel stub axle should have the 30T worm wheel centralised, and a 14T spur gear offset. The wheels and stub axles are fitted in the usual 2mm manner (see the available notes on this from Bill Blackburn for details).

 

Does anyone have a link to the notes from Bill Blackburn they can share? Does anyone have any tips for getting gears onto gear muffs straight and level?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Simon

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Not really a 2FS question as such, but does anyone know where to get hold of thin (about 4-6mm-ish) foam for lining stock boxes etc.? 

 

Regards,

 

Chris Veitch

You can get foam strip of around that thickness as draught-excluder strip for sticking round door, windows etc.  It's 4mm thick and 7mm wide and has the benefit of having a smooth polythene face on its outer face, so won't catch on fine detail.  The other face is self adhesive.  You can see it in this photo.

 

post-25077-0-21497000-1527532821_thumb.jpg

 

 

I got mine from B&Q.

 

Jim

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Thanks for your patience. I'm still very new to 2mm and don't know what fly's and what doesn't. I didn't realize you can change out the wheels and retain the value gear. That's made for a less daunting task!

 

As Chris says, building outside valve gear in 2mm is no easy task. Even converting the Farish rods to fit 2mm wheels isn't for the faint-hearted - 2mm scale loco wheels are designed for 0.5mm diameter crankpins to be soldered or glued into place, whilst the Farish ones are a lot bigger diameter and threaded so as to screw into place, plus you've got to deal with the return crank on locos fitted with Walschaerts valve gear. I would strongly recomment starting with converting an inside-cylinder loco and working up from there, taking it one step at a time. When you do feel confident enough to tackle the valve gear, the etches as sold by Nigel Hunt (as listed in the small supplier's section of the 2mm website) are very reasonably priced, and come with pretty comprehensive instructions. Definitely worth joining an area group as well if you have one nearby.

 

Andy

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As Chris says, building outside valve gear in 2mm is no easy task. Even converting the Farish rods to fit 2mm wheels isn't for the faint-hearted - 2mm scale loco wheels are designed for 0.5mm diameter crankpins to be soldered or glued into place, whilst the Farish ones are a lot bigger diameter and threaded so as to screw into place, plus you've got to deal with the return crank on locos fitted with Walschaerts valve gear. I would strongly recomment starting with converting an inside-cylinder loco and working up from there, taking it one step at a time. When you do feel confident enough to tackle the valve gear, the etches as sold by Nigel Hunt (as listed in the small supplier's section of the 2mm website) are very reasonably priced, and come with pretty comprehensive instructions. Definitely worth joining an area group as well if you have one nearby.

 

Andy

 

Or just model somethng GWR - none of that dodgy valve gear stuff hanging off them!

 

I am planning to try out using some M0.6 bolts I have as crankpins - so you can screw the crankpin nuts on and off.

 

Chris

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Or just model somethng GWR - none of that dodgy valve gear stuff hanging off them!

 

I am planning to try out using some M0.6 bolts I have as crankpins - so you can screw the crankpin nuts on and off.

 

Chris

 

Unless you want a Steam Railmotor

 

Don

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Hi,

 

Bit late to the question on this thread, but as Products officer I have been loaned an N class by one of the Wealden group members to attempt an etch for the rods. As Chris has said, you could use the Pannier rods to get something started as I am only at a very early stage with the artwork. However, the Farish valvegear is a fair bit chunkier than the Dapol ones, and while I'm happy leaving the valve gear on the Dapol Brit and Schools, the Farish N does look rather thick.

 

As I have mentioned in the Products thread the intention is to make most rod sets available either as private members products such as Nigel Hunt's LMS stuff, or direct via the Association if unavailable elsewhere.

 

So no deadline yet - I'm finishing off the Castle bits and bobs - but I don't want to leave the N too long.

 

regards

Nigel (putting head in noose again!)

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Hello everybody,

 

I'm getting on with my first loco chassis, I've put the frames together and I've got the crankpins fitted, but now I've got to this bit of the instructions:

 

11. Now add the wheels to the chassis. The drive axles should have the final drive gear offset on an gear muff on the opposite side to the gearbox. The worm wheel stub axle should have the 30T worm wheel centralised, and a 14T spur gear offset. The wheels and stub axles are fitted in the usual 2mm manner (see the available notes on this from Bill Blackburn for details).

 

Does anyone have a link to the notes from Bill Blackburn they can share? Does anyone have any tips for getting gears onto gear muffs straight and level?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Simon

Simon,

 

I have a feeling that Bill's notes are in a back-issue of the 2mm magazine. If you have the backnumbers DVD/USB stick, have a look on there. If not, I'll have a look this evening to see if I can find them.

 

As regards getting gears onto muffs squarely, I've used a small vice in the past to press the gear onto the muff. It helps if you put a very slight countersink on the side of the gear that you are inserting the gear from (twist a large diameter drill bit by hand against the gear - one turn is usually enough) to remove any machining burrs and provide a start for the muff to be pressed into the gear.

 

Some people advise pressing the wheels into the muffs with force, but I prefer to open out the muff very carefully so that the wheels can be pressed in without too much force. You need to drill a hole crosswise in the middle of the muff and when you have got the quartering and the back-to-back set, introduce a little glue into the hole (using the end of a pin or a bit of wire) to lock everything solid.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Andy

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