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1 hour ago, queensquare said:

 

pm sent.

 

The Association has sold literally hundreds of wheels over the years yet you only ever get to see a handful of finished locos. Somebody, somewhere, has a stash squirreled away!

 

Jerry 

 

What, surely not...

 

If Association members would be required to commit to building an item when they buy it, we would have practically no products at all, down to the fact the sales would be so disappointing, it would not be worth designing them in the first place. On that basis, those of you who do build should be grateful for the existence of bulging gloat boxes elsewhere.

 

Given that we have been talking about designing a new generation of wheels since I joined the committee a long time ago,  the fact that the wheels are now running out is about the only thing that was actually going to force it to really happen.

 

Chris

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47 minutes ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

What, surely not...

 

If Association members would be required to commit to building an item when they buy it, we would have practically no products at all, down to the fact the sales would be so disappointing, it would not be worth designing them in the first place. On that basis, those of you who do build should be grateful for the existence of bulging gloat boxes elsewhere.

 

Given that we have been talking about designing a new generation of wheels since I joined the committee a long time ago,  the fact that the wheels are now running out is about the only thing that was actually going to force it to really happen.

 

Chris

 

Very true Chris, I'm enormously grateful to those who buy up lots of 2mm products, even if they do then sit in their gloat boxes!

 

Jerry

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I suspect that most people buying wheels do it with a specific project in mind and probably have other parts to go with them.  For example I have some 9mm  wheels for a pannier along with an association etched chassis, a Farish body, suitable gears etc so I would not wish to part with a pair of wheels  as the project is in the queue.  I dont have any wheels purchased to just add to stock.  I do wonder if there might be more response if the request was for a set of three pair as just parting with one pair would leave the seller wondering whether the new wheels when they arrive will match with the old, and fractional differences in crank throw might give some problems.

 

Don

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I agree Don,

 

I don't have a vast stockpile of wheels but I have bought some to put into packages for builds so everything is there as and when I get around to starting the build.

I suspect there are many of us with these reserves.

 

Perhaps we should set up a wheel swap topic until the drought subsides?

 

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Not an 2mm specific question but someone here may know the answer - Gresley full brakes, would they have standard or heavyweight bogies?

 

I'm working on some NPCS for Copenhagen Fields.

Addedum - I think I found the answer at https://www.lner.info/stock/npcs/index.php , it's heavyweight.

 

Edited by 2mmMark
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2 hours ago, 2mmMark said:

Not an 2mm specific question but someone here may know the answer - Gresley full brakes, would they have standard or heavyweight bogies?

 

I'm working on some NPCS for Copenhagen Fields.

Addedum - I think I found the answer at https://www.lner.info/stock/npcs/index.php , it's heavyweight.

 

 

Mark,

 

There is some useful information in various sections of Steve Banks' website;

 

https://www.steve-banks.org

 

Andy

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37 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

I'm looking for some buffers like these SmartSelect_20191016-190256_Chrome.jpg.d260870de3b50cd101d51283073befeb.jpg for an early 1920s condition pannier tank. Any ideas who to contact? The association shop doesn't have anything quite close enough for my liking.

 

Would the Nbrass Churchward ones be of any use?

 

Don

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46 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

I'm looking for some buffers like these SmartSelect_20191016-190256_Chrome.jpg.d260870de3b50cd101d51283073befeb.jpg for an early 1920s condition pannier tank. Any ideas who to contact? The association shop doesn't have anything quite close enough for my liking.

Richard, I turned the ones that I needed, the buffer head and shank from 3mm or 1/8" silver steel (I think I made the shank either .8 or .9 mm diameter). The body of the buffer is turned from brass (with a hole bored through for the buffer shank), and soldered to a piece of 4 thou nickel silver. The base being cut and filed to size and the .8/.9mm hole drilled through it before soldering to the buffer beam. I didn't bother trying to put a step on top of the buffer housing or bolts on the fixing plate.

Ian

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1 hour ago, Donw said:

 

Would the Nbrass Churchward ones be of any use?

 

Don

 

Maybe but they're fully tapered and not quite like those in the photo. If I'm going to modify something it would be easier to start with a turned rather than a cast part.

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4 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said:

Is drawing it in 3D cad, and then sending to a 3D print company an option for you ?  I can think of at least three potential 3D printing companies would could do them in various materials.   Or ask someone who owns a printer to do them.   

Absolutely and I had the firebox for my 28xx build done like that but I thought that maybe these already existed and asked first.

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On 18/10/2019 at 10:52, 2mmMark said:

Not an 2mm specific question but someone here may know the answer - Gresley full brakes, would they have standard or heavyweight bogies?

 

I'm working on some NPCS for Copenhagen Fields.

Addedum - I think I found the answer at https://www.lner.info/stock/npcs/index.php , it's heavyweight.

 

 

The early ones had 8' Fox bogies, but most had 8' Heavyweight Gresleys. However, I have seen one photo at least (can't find it right now) with 8'6" Stamdard bogies, which it probably gained when the Fox ones wore out.

 

Chris 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Would be possible to use the Brass Straight Wire 1.2mm dia (Eileen's Emporium) as wheel axles? they will spin in P/B frames. Is this wire tough enough to not easily bend? I could go for steel rod but I would like to solder the N/S cranks at the ends of the axles; I am not sure I can do a sound join between N/S and steel.

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I would think that there would be too much play as the brass will be 0.3mm thinner.  I assume you are talking about fixing outside cranks on driving wheels, in which case, how are you planning to replace the axles already in the wheels?  Or have I got that wrong?   I have never had any problem soldering N/S to steel, in fact I'm in the middle of soldering steel buffers to my Jubilee pug.

 

Jim

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The wheels are Märklin and, together with the gear, are fitted to 1.2mm dia axles (pictured below). The project involves narrowing the gauge, from 6.5mm to 5mm, which leaves the axles protruding around 0.5mm at each end (the P/B outside frames alone are 0.7mm thick). The plan is to use a "gear puller" tool, and remove the wheels and the gears from the axles, replacing them with longer ones so they can pass through the frames and allow enough length to solder the cranks.

 

I could also rim the wheels and the gears and fit them to 1.5mm dia steel rod ("Eileen's" don't sell 1.2mm dia steel rod.

P1020335.JPG

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16 hours ago, Valentin said:

Would be possible to use the Brass Straight Wire 1.2mm dia (Eileen's Emporium) as wheel axles? they will spin in P/B frames. Is this wire tough enough to not easily bend? I could go for steel rod but I would like to solder the N/S cranks at the ends of the axles; I am not sure I can do a sound join between N/S and steel.

 

The grade of brass will make a difference to how they axles potentially wear/bend. The 2mm Scale Association Mk4 loco wheels have brass axles (machined from castings) and they work well in most instances (unless your locos were doing significant mileages, eg. on 'Copenhagen Fields'). 

 

Andy

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7 hours ago, nick_bastable said:

A quick straw poll of feelings

 

fascia  etc of baseboards

 

painted or varnished ?   if painted most suitable colour ?

 

Nick

 

I'm inclined towards neutral colours.  I've used a satin mid-grey on British Oak.

 

Although, An Clár has a gloss white facia and that seems to work well.

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I'm modelling Highland Railways -ish, the facia and transport trollies are painted Highland Railways Olive green (approximately).

6067-260819144119[1].jpg

6067-260819144312[1].jpg

Edited by TheQ
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