Any Question Answered

[Lacathedrale]

The 2mm journal has a series running from Nov 1962 to March 1963 on building a West Country Pacific - clearly things have moved on a good deal since then but the model appears to be quite fine, and I am interested in trying to mimic the process with a few modern substitutions (such as association axle bearings, PCB frame spacers, etc.):

 

 

Part 1 http://www.2mm.org.uk/membersonly/backnumbers/1960s/1962/Nov1962.pdf#page=16

Part 2 http://www.2mm.org.uk/membersonly/backnumbers/1960s/1963/Jan1963.pdf#page=14

Part 3 http://www.2mm.org.uk/membersonly/backnumbers/1960s/1963/Mar1963.pdf#page=18

(all of these links are password protected, do not fear!)

 

Any thoughts (whether they are to encourage or dissuade) would be appreciated!

 

[CF MRC]

There is a wonderful story about the locos that Les Brown made, told to me by Ian Pusey.  There was a get together of modellers in London and the MN was also accompanied by a Schools class from Les.  Both performed well individually, but when they ran in opposite directions on parallel tracks the two tenders clapped together because of the massive magnets contained therein.  At that point it was decided that the future prospects for 2mm modelling might be curtailed.
 

Tim

Edited April 4, 2020 by CF MRC

[queensquare]

The pacific and the Schools are currently in my care along with a lovely rake of Bulleid coaches which are very much of their time with shaped Perspex sides with paper overlays and obechi floors. As far as I'm aware the Schools still has its original motor which I believe is from a Triang rocket but the MN has a more modern one although I've not investigated fully as yet. I 

 

Jerry

 

[Lacathedrale]

Wow, who'd have thought!?  Lovely to see, for sure - and even in the sunshine livery too.

[garygfletcher]

So I had a go at making this up this evening. I just dove in and didn’t really think about it. Now that I’m thinking about it I’m wondering if the steps are on the right side (is there a trick to tell or do I just look in a reference book). I’m also wondering how you fix the roof, I’ve soldered it now. But there is no base. At the time I thought the roof would be more difficult hence I done that part first. This is a worsley works etch, no instructions or pictures of it complete from my extensive searching.

 

any tips appreciated, and the first time I’ve soldered a coach... so be kind.. 

[queensquare]

7 hours ago, garygfletcher said:

So I had a go at making this up this evening. I just dove in and didn’t really think about it. Now that I’m thinking about it I’m wondering if the steps are on the right side (is there a trick to tell or do I just look in a reference book). I’m also wondering how you fix the roof, I’ve soldered it now. But there is no base. At the time I thought the roof would be more difficult hence I done that part first. This is a worsley works etch, no instructions or pictures of it complete from my extensive searching.

 

any tips appreciated, and the first time I’ve soldered a coach... so be kind.. 

 

 

Looks fine Gary. Worsley coaches are designed to be similar to Comet kits, generic instructions for these can be found here

https://www.engelsmodelspoor.shop/media/pdfs/Building Coaches the Comet Way.pdf

 

Jerry

[Lacathedrale]

(deleted)

Edited April 12, 2020 by Lacathedrale

[Ian Smith]

7 hours ago, garygfletcher said:

So I had a go at making this up this evening. I just dove in and didn’t really think about it. Now that I’m thinking about it I’m wondering if the steps are on the right side (is there a trick to tell or do I just look in a reference book). I’m also wondering how you fix the roof, I’ve soldered it now. But there is no base. At the time I thought the roof would be more difficult hence I done that part first. This is a worsley works etch, no instructions or pictures of it complete from my extensive searching.

 

any tips appreciated, and the first time I’ve soldered a coach... so be kind.. 

Gary,

Coach body looks ok to me. However, have you soldered in the strengthening/fixing plates on the inside of the coach ends (How close your thumb is to the end makes me suspicious that you haven't). These allow the body to be bolted to the under frame. Also if you have, did you remember to solder a nut on top? (I have forgotten that on at least 2 occasions now and it's a pig to rectify once the roof is on).

Ian

[Donw]

8 hours ago, Ian Smith said:

Gary,

Coach body looks ok to me. However, have you soldered in the strengthening/fixing plates on the inside of the coach ends (How close your thumb is to the end makes me suspicious that you haven't). These allow the body to be bolted to the under frame. Also if you have, did you remember to solder a nut on top? (I have forgotten that on at least 2 occasions now and it's a pig to rectify once the roof is on).

Ian

 

8 hours ago, Ian Smith said:

Gary,

Coach body looks ok to me. However, have you soldered in the strengthening/fixing plates on the inside of the coach ends (How close your thumb is to the end makes me suspicious that you haven't). These allow the body to be bolted to the under frame. Also if you have, did you remember to solder a nut on top? (I have forgotten that on at least 2 occasions now and it's a pig to rectify once the roof is on).

Ian

 

Could you solder the nut onto the fixing plate first  then solder them in the sides. A bit of cocktail stick through the nut could keep it in line with the hole in case the solder softens? Not tried it myselfjust an idea.

 

Don

[nick_bastable]

10 minutes ago, Donw said:

 

 

Could you solder the nut onto the fixing plate first  then solder them in the sides. A bit of cocktail stick through the nut could keep it in line with the hole in case the solder softens? Not tried it myselfjust an idea.

 

Don

been there done that,   a lightly oiled bolt worked for me in securing one that came loose

 

Nick B

[65179]

47 minutes ago, Donw said:

 

 

Could you solder the nut onto the fixing plate first  then solder them in the sides. A bit of cocktail stick through the nut could keep it in line with the hole in case the solder softens? Not tried it myselfjust an idea.

 

Don

 

David Eveleigh demonstrates a neat way of soldering in bits flush with the bottom of the coach sides in the latest 2mm Magazine.

 

Simon 

Edited April 12, 2020 by 65179
Spelling

[Caley Jim]

2 hours ago, Donw said:

Could you solder the nut onto the fixing plate first  then solder them in the sides. A bit of cocktail stick through the nut could keep it in line with the hole in case the solder softens? Not tried it myselfjust an idea.

Another way is to solder a strip of thick brass (c1mm or more) onto the top of the bracket before attaching it to the coach,  drill a tapping hole through using the holes in the bracket as a guide and then tap them for the bolts.  I did this when I built the CR 45ft coaches designed by john Boyle (who sadly died last week) which have a similar means of attaching the body to the underframe.  No issue if the strip moves slightly when soldering on the bracket since you're not drilling the holes until after that.  Also saves on nuts - but then I'm a parsimonious Scot! 

 

As an aside, I only used two bolts, diagonally opposite one another.

 

Jim

[Donw]

12 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

Another way is to solder a strip of thick brass (c1mm or more) onto the top of the bracket before attaching it to the coach,  drill a tapping hole through using the holes in the bracket as a guide and then tap them for the bolts.  I did this when I built the CR 45ft coaches designed by john Boyle (who sadly died last week) which have a similar means of attaching the body to the underframe.  No issue if the strip moves slightly when soldering on the bracket since you're not drilling the holes until after that.  Also saves on nuts - but then I'm a parsimonious Scot! 

 

As an aside, I only used two bolts, diagonally opposite one another.

 

Jim

 

Jim I am very sorry to hear about John Boyle I knew him from the Gloucester 0 gauge group. 

 

Don

[Caley Jim]

1 hour ago, Donw said:

 

Jim I am very sorry to hear about John Boyle I knew him from the Gloucester 0 gauge group. 

Thanks, Don. 

 

I got to know him in the early '70's and he was very generous in having some of his hand drawn etch artwork shot down to 2mm for me, locos and coaches. My Jubilee pug being one of them. I had hoped to show it to him at the CRA AGM which should have been last month. I in turn made some brass masters for him. 

 

Jim

[John Brenchley]

Hi everyone

How would you recommend modelling washing on a line.

I have the posts in place and a thin loop of nylon dolls hair for the line but would like washing such as a double bed sheet and pillow cases hanging over or from the line.

Have others achieved this and if so, what did you use to get best look?  I feel paper is a bit stiff, tissue is too see through and I haven't found a piece of cloth yet that is thin enough or one without a weave that is too obvious.

Thanks

John

Edited April 14, 2020 by John Brenchley

[Donw]

I wonder if aluminium foil might be an answer obviously painting it might be an issue.  I remember Dave Rowe doing some in 4mm I think he may have used thin lead 

 

Don

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Definitely agree with Donw also sweet wrappers with foil. I have used these for tarps as well, obviously painted but you need to get the crinkles you want first unless all the paint will crack and rub off when you start manipulating.

[John Brenchley]

Thanks Dona and No46

 

The idea of some sort of foil sound interesting.  I just happen to have some Malteser Truffles still uneaten from Easter and they have foil wrappers.  Worth a try

 

John

 

[richbrummitt]

You could try softening white or coloured paper by reducing the thickness with abrasive paper. 

[5944]

What about cigarette papers? A couple of thin mist coats should stop them being too see through but still allow enough manipulation to bend them over a washing line. 

[queensquare]

This is Midland cottage on Bath at the entrance to the stables. The line itself could do with being replaced with something finer but I think the cigarette paper sheet works.

 

Jerry

[bécasse]

Till receipts offer another possibility, there is usually enough white space for them to usable in 2FS and they are commendably thin and flat. "Weave" is far too fine to be visible in 2mm scale.

[Pixie]

Kobaru do an etch - they're excellent, as are all their other detail bits and pieces. They used to be available on eBay via PlazaJapan; currently none listed but their stuff seems to appear in waves. It's shown on their website here: https://www.plazajapan.com/4562246951219/.

 

Etched washing, what a time to be alive.

 

Pix

 

 

[Jim T]

Beautiful etches and a great idea, but who puts their washing on coat hangers before they hang it out on the line? Is this a cultural pitfall for modellers of the Japanese scene? Or something that is prevalent amongst those of us who are "special" enough to be railway enthusiasts?

 

[Caley Jim]

You could try dried out tea bags as I used for wagon sheets. Sending this on my phone so can't quote a link, but I think there are photos in my Kirkallanmuir topic somewhere. 

 

Jim