Any Question Answered

[queensquare]

Rummaging in one of my many boxes of bits I came across this, pretty sure it's Farish. Can anyone tell me what it's based on

 

Jerry

 

[2mm Andy]

23 minutes ago, queensquare said:

Rummaging in one of my many boxes of bits I came across this, pretty sure it's Farish. Can anyone tell me what it's based on

 

Jerry

 

 

A Great Northern Railway fish van apparently;

 

https://www.igg.org.uk/gansg/10-avmod/am-grafar.htm

 

Andy

[nick_bastable]

29 minutes ago, queensquare said:

Rummaging in one of my many boxes of bits I came across this, pretty sure it's Farish. Can anyone tell me what it's based on

 

Jerry

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352686407489

 

Nick B

[queensquare]

Thanks gents, even I can't justify one of those at Bath! I will pop it in Steve 'Atsos' stash.

 

Jerry

[Atso]

24 minutes ago, queensquare said:

Thanks gents, even I can't justify one of those at Bath! I will pop it in Steve 'Atsos' stash.

 

Jerry

 

Thanks very much Jerry, I'm always on the lookout for ex-GN Fish vans!

[CF MRC]

They are much improved by being filleted. 

An exercise undertaken by Matthew for our Flying Kipper train. 

 

Tim
 

[Kylestrome]

4 minutes ago, CF MRC said:

They are much improved by being filleted

 

... and smoked.

[Lacathedrale]

I have had a musing about a next layout which involves pre-group ballast-over-sleepers. Far from worrying about chairplates at this stage I'm wondering if it might be worth spacing sleepers out more widely. The SER (the company for which this theoretical layout is based on) left every tenth sleeper uncovered for inspection - that'd be a 50mm gap. Proably fine with Code 148 rail in O gauge but I'd have thought more of a problem in 2mm. Is there a 'known good' standard for widest sleeper spacing (for example in fiddle yards, etc.) that doesn't compromise strength and running quality?

Edited August 9, 2020 by Lacathedrale

[queensquare]

On 07/08/2020 at 14:52, Kylestrome said:

 

... and smoked.

 

... in an appropriate jacket of course.

 

Jerry

[-missy-]

Hi All.

 

Has anyone any ideas on where I need to gap the sleepers on this thing for isolating the elastictrickery?

 

Thanks

Julia.

[bécasse]

Assuming that you are using the same supply for both broad and narrow gauge, the gaps, in rails as well as sleepers, need to be between the separate rails for the two gauges (which will electrically be as one) and the common rails. In other words, it is just like a normal point that happens to have two electrically common running rails one side.

It would have been more complex had the narrow gauge split as well - and it would be a lot more complex if you wish to have separate supplies for the two gauges, best done by having common feeds which are switched according to which gauge is in use at any particular moment.

Edited August 9, 2020 by bécasse
Marked up image added

[-missy-]

Thanks for the reply.

 

I have indicated below what the dual gauges are. The narrow gauge is indicated in green and the standard gauge in red.

 

 

Julia.

[bécasse]

Sorry about that - too used to seeing mixed 3 foot/metre-standard track.

Try this, you already have two out of the three necessary rail breaks, I have marked where you need the third.

[Valentin]

Hi Julia,

 

How do you get the wood grain effect on the timbers?

[queensquare]

8 hours ago, -missy- said:

Thanks for the reply.

 

I have indicated below what the dual gauges are. The narrow gauge is indicated in green and the standard gauge in red.

 

 

Julia.

 

I'm afraid that this bear of little brain cant help you with the electric trickery but that's a very nice bit of trackwork.

 

Jerry

[Donw]

I was rather surprised by the first answer given. I was trying to see if I had misread it but remembered it was around 4mm gauge.

 

It is indeed a lovely piece of trackwork. What rail have you you used Code 30?

 

Don

Edited August 9, 2020 by Donw
typo

[-missy-]

Thank you Don.

 

It is code 40 track (with the etched chairs). It does mean I will need to work out how to transition from code 40 to code 30 at some point though.

 

Julia.

[Lacathedrale]

Lovely stuff @-missy- - so delicate!

[-missy-]

15 hours ago, Valentin said:

Hi Julia,

 

How do you get the wood grain effect on the timbers?

 

Hi Valentin.

 

I drag a coarse razor saw blade along the length of them.

 

 

Julia.

Edited August 10, 2020 by -missy-
spelling

[Donw]

7 hours ago, -missy- said:

Thank you Don.

 

It is code 40 track (with the etched chairs). It does mean I will need to work out how to transition from code 40 to code 30 at some point though.

 

Julia.

 

Usually a bit of packing will do the job.  Assuming the sleepers are the same thickness and using the same chairs a piece of 10thou under the code 30 will do the job. Obviously the sleepers will be a bit higher on the code 30 side. If for some reason that was going to be too visible the other option would be to file a taper on the end of the code 40 on the underside of the rail. It would only need and inch or so. Best to do both rails the same. The sleepers would all be at the same level then. If the head is a different width  again just file a bit of taper on the outside head of the code 40.

Don

[Valentin]

12 hours ago, -missy- said:

Thank you Don.

 

It is code 40 track (with the etched chairs). It does mean I will need to work out how to transition from code 40 to code 30 at some point though.

 

Julia.

 

Why wouldn't you use code 40 everywhere, including the narrow gauge lines?

[-missy-]

1 hour ago, Valentin said:

 

Why wouldn't you use code 40 everywhere, including the narrow gauge lines?

 

It's a good point Valentin. I just thought that 4mm gauge in code 40 would look a bit too 'chunky', that's all.

 

Julia.

[Roger.s]

6 hours ago, Donw said:

 

Usually a bit of packing will do the job.  Assuming the sleepers are the same thickness and using the same chairs a piece of 10thou under the code 30 will do the job. Obviously the sleepers will be a bit higher on the code 30 side. If for some reason that was going to be too visible the other option would be to file a taper on the end of the code 40 on the underside of the rail. It would only need and inch or so. Best to do both rails the same. The sleepers would all be at the same level then. If the head is a different width  again just file a bit of taper on the outside head of the code 40.

Don

If this were full size then the platelayers would have the same problem. They would pack the NG rail-head to be level with the mixed gage rail-head making the NG sleepers higher than the standard/mixed gauge sleepers. So the sleepers would look wrong if they were at the same height. They would also use special fishplates rather than cut a taper in the rail.

 

Regards Roger

[John57sharp]

Any advice or pointers please for using 2 Easitrac pegged B6 turnouts as a crossover?  I’m guessing build them together as a unit, but I’m wondering if the standard 22.4mm between centre lines would have to be widened, or is there some overlap to trim out?

 

TIA

 

John

[Valentin]

20 hours ago, -missy- said:

 

It's a good point Valentin. I just thought that 4mm gauge in code 40 would look a bit too 'chunky', that's all.

 

Julia.

 

 

Hi Julia,

 

I used code 30 for the metre gauge test oval and point I built and it looks very good, especially after I weathered the rails. The track is not yet ballasted, maybe it will look even better after ballasting.

 

I would assume that after ballasting and weathering, code 40 will look as good as code 30.

 

As I already have roller gauges for code 40 with the rails spaced at 5mm, I would use code 40 for my future project of a 2'6" narrow gauge based in Eastern Europe.

 

What size are the timbers you're using for the plain track? The ones in the shop are 1.3 mm wide, 12 mm long and 0.85 mm thick - not very prototypical for a 2' or 2'6" narrow gauge line; they could be improved by shortening and ballasting, but how would one deal with them being too wide?

Edited August 11, 2020 by Valentin