Any Question Answered

[Sithlord75]

3 hours ago, Valentin said:

Isn't that an odd place, on the outside, for a check rail?

It isn't on the outside of the narrow gauge - it's on the inside!  You may have to squint 

[Roger.s]

3 hours ago, Valentin said:

Isn't that an odd place, on the outside, for a check rail?

A normal check rail pulls the wheelset away from the V in the crossing.  This "check" rail is to push the standard gauge wheelset towards the gap beyond the NG rail so it has to be on the outside of the wheel.

 

Regards Roger

[Donw]

Interesting to note that rather than long checkrails short pieces were used possibly because short check rails are a stock item?

If you go for the no switch option the next issue is the switching of the crossing. It needs to be a different polarity for SG and NG trains. A Frog Juicer will do the job but most require DCC.   I am currently building a design by  Tim Coombs a MERG member that will switch the polarity for both DC and DCC however it does need a separate 12v DC supply. I use a 12v supply fro lights etc so not an issue. The reason it needs it is because using DC the voltage on the rails is not constant.

 

Don 

[-missy-]

27 minutes ago, Donw said:

 I am currently building a design by  Tim Coombs a MERG member that will switch the polarity for both DC and DCC however it does need a separate 12v DC supply. I use a 12v supply fro lights etc so not an issue. The reason it needs it is because using DC the voltage on the rails is not constant.

 

Don 

 

Hi Don.

 

Im really interested in that, can you tell me more about it?

 

Julia.

[2mm Andy]

8 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

It isn't on the outside of the narrow gauge - it's on the inside!  You may have to squint 

 

I think Valentin is referring to the one in the right hand foreground.

 

Andy

[Sithlord75]

1 hour ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

I think Valentin is referring to the one in the right hand foreground.

 

Andy

Ahhh - missed that - should have squinted myself!!! 

[justin1985]

Quick question - do we know if Gordon Solloway is still offering the wheel turning service at the moment? 

 

I understand he was retiring from work on the normal wheel range, and especially with the COVID situation, I thought it would be good to ask if anyone knows if he is still able to offer the service?

 

J

[Argos]

Up until now all my modelling has been done with the naked eye (well, via varifocal glasses, but you know what I mean.....).

 

I am considering taking the plunge and investing in some magnification to assist in my modelling.

There seems to be a wide range of solutions available from very expensive loupes to simple clip on magnifiers.

I guess that choice just comes down to personal preference and/or depth of pocket.

 

My question is what magnification do people use?

Is it constant or do you switch between magnifications depending on the task?

I notice some magnifiers come with a range of lenses, others can be bought with only one.

 

I would guess that one quality lens would trump several cheaper ones for the same overall price if interchangeability was not any real benefit .

 

Thanks

 

Angus

[Caley Jim]

I use a set made by Lightcraft which sadly appear to be no longer available. They are like a pair of spectacles without the lenses or lens holders and with a magnifier mounted in front with an LED light also.  They came with three sets of magnifiers, x1.5, x2.5 and x3.5.  I find the x1.5 perfectly adequate for most work, though I have used the x2.5 once or twice for lettering.  The higher the magnification you use, the closer you have to be to the work.  I would recommend that, rather then using magnification with your varifocals, you get a set of cheap frames with your reading prescription in them and use these.  I find it difficult to work with the magnification with my varifocals on as you don't have the full field of vision at the same focal length.

 

Jim

[Ian Morgan]

I have not gone for magnification, but for close-up focusing. When I have new glasses, I get three pairs. One pair allow me to focus on a computer screen at work, about 2 feet away (paid for by my employer). One pair is for reading, and focus a little over a foot away. I also get a pair that will allow me to focus on something about 4 or 5 inches from my nose, that I use for modelling. I did try a big magnifying glass and an optivisor, but I could not co-ordinate the movement of my hands with what I was seeing.

 

[Donw]

I need glasses for reading +2  so I bought some +3.5 reading glasses from Poundland which means I don't need to worry about them. I also have a desk magnifier with a light so when I need real magnification  I wear the strong reading glasses and look through the magnifier.

 

Don

[Nigelcliffe]

I need glasses to correct vision.  So magnification is in addition to the specs.  My specs have two main types; distance vision and reading, these days I'm doing modelling with reading glasses, often with extra magnification. 

I have a set of clip-on magnifying lenses which fit on my specs.  The optics are similar to the pieces in the link from Jim Watt, but the connection to glasses is springy wire which fits on the bridge and below the lens frames.     They're my main choice.   With them, I can see around the side of the magnification for more normal vision - useful for finding tools, etc.. 

 

I also have a set of the dental loupes which Tim Watson suggested some time ago.  Those are binoculars which mean the work is further away than just magnifiers.  They work well in some situations, but in others I stick with the clip-on.      As delivered, the loupes have a wrap-around eye protector behind the binoculars.  That can be removed, and just the headband+cord used to support the binocular, and thus used over my glasses.  

 

Now and again I get a camera out; usually for lathe stuff.  Small camera on the work, screen above lathe, and watch screen rather than the work.  

 

- Nigel

[Caley Jim]

Using magnification needs some practice and can take time to get used to.  You fingers and the tools you are using appear to be moving much further than they actually are, so need to make adjustments.  I too have a set of dental loupes which I used for most of the working day for around 12 years, prior to which I use a headband magnifier, so I suppose it comes as second nature to me.  The ability to look outside the area of magnification as Nigel has described is useful on a number of counts, which is where the 'flip-up' type score over the headband style in my experience.

 

Using cheap reading glasses is OK for those fortunate enough not to need corrective lenses.  I have an astigmatism (my lenses are not spherical) so that type are no use to me.

 

I would recommend getting some fairly cheap ones to start with and see how you get on with them before investing in anything too expensive.  Indeed you might find, as I have, that they are perfectly adequate.

 

Jim

[mike morley]

Just because somebody - or several somebodies - recommends a particular type or make does not necessarily mean it will suit you, so do not buy anything without trying it out first.

This is where being the member of a club is useful - I went round asking everyone what they used and asking if I could try it out before making my decision.  If you arent a club member, asking the demonstrators at one of the bigger/more specialised exhibitions could be an alternative way of doing it.

[DavidLong]

I always find this to be an interesting discussion having had to put up with endless comments about eyesight when on the 2mm Association stand at exhibitions. I have had glasses since I was ten which is now nearly sixty years ago and these days I have a pair of varifocals and a pair of reading glasses to make up for my general deficiency of sight. However, some years ago I discovered that at the distance from my eyes to the workbench when seated I had near perfect eyesight. This means that all my modelling is done with no additional aids  being necessary. I do wonder if there are others who, like myself, have this unusual advantage but haven't actually discovered it.

 

David

Edited August 25, 2020 by DavidLong

[Argos]

2 hours ago, mike morley said:

Just because somebody - or several somebodies - recommends a particular type or make does not necessarily mean it will suit you, so do not buy anything without trying it out first.

 

Hi Mike, thanks, my original question was around the magnification used as otherwise the debate falls into personal preference. 

 

1 hour ago, DavidLong said:

I do wonder if there are others who, like myself, have this unusual advantage but haven't actually discovered it.

 

Hi David, like you I've been wearing glasses since I was a kid (I was actually sent to Barnard Castle for my first eye test..........) initially for distance,  but as my eyes have got older I need near vision correction. Also like you I do seem to spend a lot of time at my modelling table with my glasses shoved on top of my head as the varifocals focus is too close or too far.  I do finish up in slight stoop at the work table though.

 

If I'm reading the comments above right (thanks those that have taken the trouble to respond) a lower magnification is preferable (x1.5 or x2) so no need for a wide range of lenses or powerful loupes.

 

I'm currently thinking a pair of these would fit the bill, they will fit over glasses and can flip up out the way whilst being reasonably priced.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B086K495T2/?coliid=I1LNGM028RZ5OU&colid=3R2ZSDJNPBRF1&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[Caley Jim]

2 hours ago, Argos said:

I'm currently thinking a pair of these would fit the bill, they will fit over glasses and can flip up out the way whilst being reasonably priced.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B086K495T2/?coliid=I1LNGM028RZ5OU&colid=3R2ZSDJNPBRF1&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I would say these are a bit OTT IMHO.  Why not get something like these  https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/18007801618 to try out, without spending too much and see how you get on.  They seem pretty much the same as I have except mine have their own legs and have the LED, which I rarely use unless I'm trying to see something under the baseboard.

 

Jim

[Argos]

Thanks for the recommendation Jim,

 

To be honest, if I buy from a UK seller (to avoid the one and half month's wait for delivery from China and avoid the risk of VAT and import duty) then I would be paying about £6. The ones on the Amazon  link are also available from UK Ebay sellers at less than £9 and have an LED light.

 

Although I have two workbench lights I find myself occasionally using a head torch for additional illumination so the light will come in useful.

[richbrummitt]

I found myself badly hunched over the workbench. (I generally find everything a bit low since I am 6’2”) 

I had my modelling bench supported on repurposed kitchen furniture for a time and therefore at a similar height to a kitchen work surface. This would probably be okay for some people but was too low for me. I noticed that people who make jewellery seemed to have higher work surfaces to bring the work up towards them. I raised my bench up so it is about 39” from floor level and I hunch much less. 
 

Back to eyes: Lighting is also very important since illumination needs increase with age. I learnt that early on in a previous job. 

[Donw]

8 hours ago, DavidLong said:

I always find this to be an interesting discussion having had to put up with endless comments about eyesight when on the 2mm Association stand at exhibitions. I have had glasses since I was ten which is now nearly sixty years ago and these days I have a pair of varifocals and a pair of reading glasses to make up for my general deficiency of sight. However, some years ago I discovered that at the distance from my eyes to the workbench when seated I had near perfect eyesight. This means that all my modelling is done with no additional aids  being necessary. I do wonder if there are others who, like myself, have this unusual advantage but haven't actually discovered it.

 

David

 

Not myself but if it is really small and needs to be seen close up i.e a couple of inches away Marion can take her glasses off  and see it 

 

Don

[Nigelcliffe]

13 hours ago, Argos said:

Thanks for the recommendation Jim,

 

To be honest, if I buy from a UK seller (to avoid the one and half month's wait for delivery from China and avoid the risk of VAT and import duty) then I would be paying about £6. The ones on the Amazon  link are also available from UK Ebay sellers at less than £9 and have an LED light.

 

Although I have two workbench lights I find myself occasionally using a head torch for additional illumination so the light will come in useful.

 

I agree with Jim's comment about "possibly OTT".   OTT in terms of weight and bulk.    Its not a price thing,  they're all trivial price compared to £200++ I end up spending when I need a new pair of single vision glasses, let alone varifocal types.  

 

If you go with the Amazon item, then the headband strap (in illustrations) will be essential to stop them moving or falling off.    Such straps/cords may be needed for clip on type devices, depends on their weight, the glasses frames, and your head shape.  

 

Workbench lighting;  it suggests you need more lighting around the area.  That's a whole different topic around beam angles, focused vs. diffused light, light colour temperatures, etc..  

 

- Nigel

[Lacathedrale]

Regarding bench height, I was watching a woodworking video where the gent built a mini-bench to sit ontop of his work surface for exactly the purpose described. I've taken to using an upturned desk drawer with a cutting mat on-top recently and it's helped significantly in back strain.

[Donw]

Currently doing some SMD soldering with resistors being 3mmx 1.5mm good light and magnification is vital. The magnifying lamp sits on the bench so a high bench would raise that too, so what can be helpful is something like a large pice of wood that can be placed under the lamp to raise the workpiece up creating a sort of minibench on the workbench rther than being bent over.

Don

 

[CF MRC]

I have used loupes for decades, both professionally and hobby wise.  The ones I have currently are 2.8x magnification with a decent working length and coaxial strong LED lighting.  The cost of these is eye watering, but there are very few aberrations in the optics; they flip up and the host glasses are fitted with my varifocal lenses. My left eye had some retinal surgery 18 months ago, so it is a bit difficult to trust my discrimination of thin lines -this now makes lining out a loco a bit challenging.  With most systems increased magnification leads to a small depth of field, shorter working length, and also a darker image - hence coaxial lighting is a major advantage, and it also removes shadows.

My students found this source of loupes:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077QGGXFX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

The ones I have seen are pretty good, and excellent value for money.  It is very important to set up the angles and inter-ocular distances correctly on loupes, assuming they are adjustable, so just borrowing someone’s loupes to try out may not give the correct impression. 
 

Tim
 

 

Edited August 26, 2020 by CF MRC

[Donw]

On 24/08/2020 at 08:44, -missy- said:

 

Hi Don.

 

Im really interested in that, can you tell me more about it?

 

Julia.

 

I sent you a PM Julia hope you saw it.

Don