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On 30/08/2020 at 22:04, -missy- said:

Hi.

 

How do you guys normally attach cylinders onto the chassis of a steam engine? Once they are attached they seem to make removing some of the wheels impossible without removing the cylinders?

 

Thanks.

 

J.

 

On some of my etched designs I made each cylinder fold into a U shape, which then by use of slots it slides onto the frame and so (at least in theory) does not need any additional fixing and can be slid out of the frames again when needed. In practice I suspect many would opt for an extra fixing using a bolt.

 

Chris

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41 minutes ago, -missy- said:

How would the sleepers fit on this?

I would suspect that there would be long timbers set diagonally, but , when it comes to narrow and mixed gauge, like Manuel, 'I know nothing'.

 

 

Jim  (not from Barcelona)

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You have to consider 2 things

 

1. What the prototype looked like

 

2. Cutting insulation gaps whilst still giving sufficient support to the rails, a model railway problem.

 

Longitudinal timbers will give much better support than cross-timbers but a piece of PCB sheet cut in a # shape to look like longitudinal timbers would be the most robust.

 

Cast crossing members would often be used in a crossing like that, rather than ordinary rail - something else to consider. There are loads of photos and diagrams online if you do a google search.

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4 hours ago, -missy- said:

This is frustrating me...

 

How would the sleepers fit on this?

 

Thanks

 

Julia.

 

A few possible options;

 

a modern standard gauge/2ft gauge crossing;

 

https://www.whrsoc.org.uk/WHRProject/2006/whrcl-corus-201006-3.jpg

 

or if you fancy something a bit older using bridge rail and angle iron check rails;

 

https://www.festipedia.org.uk/wiki/Cambrian_Crossing#/media/File:CambrianCrossing1934.jpg

 

or something a bit bigger and more modern;

 

https://www.radionewark.co.uk/news/local-news/weekend-rail-closures-as-work-begins-to-improve-newark-train-services/

 

I think I'd go for the first one and use your CNC to mill it out of PCB sheet (as "£1.38" has suggested) to match the ordinary 2mm sleepers.

 

Andy

 

Edited by 2mm Andy
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Hi All,

 

Just bought a Farish C class and wanted some guidance on the conversion to 2mm.   Can I ask how those that have mounted new rims on the wheels have gone about holding the wheels in the lathe?  My initial thoughts are;

  1. To remove one of the wheels from each axle.
  2. The wheels on the axles can be held by the axle in a collet and turned for a 10mm rim. fitted with loctite 603
  3. The other 3 wheels mounted on suitable dia drill steel and processed as above
  4. Remount on axle and quarter

The other option would be to 3d print centres as missy did with hers and I might go down this route if the re-rimming route proves too tricky.

 

Thanks

 

Guy

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23 minutes ago, SandHutton said:

Hi All,

 

Just bought a Farish C class and wanted some guidance on the conversion to 2mm.   Can I ask how those that have mounted new rims on the wheels have gone about holding the wheels in the lathe?  My initial thoughts are;

  1. To remove one of the wheels from each axle.
  2. The wheels on the axles can be held by the axle in a collet and turned for a 10mm rim. fitted with loctite 603
  3. The other 3 wheels mounted on suitable dia drill steel and processed as above
  4. Remount on axle and quarter

The other option would be to 3d print centres as missy did with hers and I might go down this route if the re-rimming route proves too tricky.

 

Thanks

 

Guy

 Keith Armes converted mine,   changing the rims on both loco and tender replacing the coupling rod for a very reasonable sum   and very quickly  so may be worth speaking with him if only to ask how he does it.

 

 

Nick B

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On 06/09/2020 at 21:06, -missy- said:

That is brilliant, thank you very much.

 

I am going to do some tweaks to the drawing.....

 

Julia :)

 

At 07:51 in this video, there's a good view of a standard/2ft gauge crossing which might offer some ideas.


 

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1 hour ago, 2mmMark said:

 

At 07:51 in this video, there's a good view of a standard/2ft gauge crossing which might offer some ideas.

 

 

That is a really nice and very inspirational video, thank you very much for sharing it Mark.

 

J :)

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7 hours ago, SandHutton said:

Hi All,

 

Just bought a Farish C class and wanted some guidance on the conversion to 2mm.   Can I ask how those that have mounted new rims on the wheels have gone about holding the wheels in the lathe?  My initial thoughts are;

  1. To remove one of the wheels from each axle.
  2. The wheels on the axles can be held by the axle in a collet and turned for a 10mm rim. fitted with loctite 603
  3. The other 3 wheels mounted on suitable dia drill steel and processed as above
  4. Remount on axle and quarter

The other option would be to 3d print centres as missy did with hers and I might go down this route if the re-rimming route proves too tricky.

 

Thanks

 

Guy

 

I haven't re-rimed any of these particular wheels but I would not recommend holding the wheels in a lathe by the axles for machining as in doing so you run the risk of either distorting the plastic insulating bush or making the wheel a loose fit on it - been there/done that. Suggest the bush is pressed out and the wheels mounted on a mandrel/wheel fixture and the bush re-fitted when done.

 

Izzy

 

 

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7 hours ago, SandHutton said:

Hi All,

 

Just bought a Farish C class and wanted some guidance on the conversion to 2mm.   Can I ask how those that have mounted new rims on the wheels have gone about holding the wheels in the lathe?  My initial thoughts are;

  1. To remove one of the wheels from each axle.
  2. The wheels on the axles can be held by the axle in a collet and turned for a 10mm rim. fitted with loctite 603
  3. The other 3 wheels mounted on suitable dia drill steel and processed as above
  4. Remount on axle and quarter

The other option would be to 3d print centres as missy did with hers and I might go down this route if the re-rimming route proves too tricky.

 

Thanks

 

Guy

 

As with Izzy,  I wouldn't try turning them from the axles.   You should be able to grip the outside of the fat bit of the wheel bearing in a suitable collet. 

 

If lacking a collet, make one - a plain bore simple split collet is very simple:  bit of round brass bar of approx 4mm dia, (if held in a lathe chuck, mark where it aligns with no-1 jaw of the chuck, and always align it against that mark when in use), drill/bore carefully to 3mm to create a tube, saw lengthways along one edge of tube.  Clean up any rough edges with a fine file.  

 

May also need a revolving centre with suitable mandrel to push on the wheel to hold it firmly into the chuck.  

 

 

- Nigel

 

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34 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:

As with Izzy,  I wouldn't try turning them from the axles.   You should be able to grip the outside of the fat bit of the wheel bearing in a suitable collet. 

 

 

Hi Nigel / Izzy,

 

Unfortunately the C Class doesn't have the thick bearing surface as per the jinty and earlier models and is a metal wheel with a central insulating bush on a 2mm? axle which runs in bearings.  

And on reflection I agree that unless you held it in place with a rotating centre its likely to upset the insulating bush or rotate on the axle.

 

I have a lathe with Digital  readout so no excuses there and have a ER16 collet set which goes up to 10mm and some blanks.  I have machined wheels before but only to reduce the tyre and flange width. 

 

7 hours ago, nick_bastable said:

Keith Armes converted mine,   changing the rims on both loco and tender replacing the coupling rod for a very reasonable sum   and very quickly  so may be worth speaking with him if only to ask how he does it.

 

Nick,

 

Thanks for the information, I will ask on the groups.io if he fancies doing another :D alternatively I would like to know how he did it.  I saw a close up photo of his own br black example and its looks quite superb.

 

Guy

 

 

 

Edited by SandHutton
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8 hours ago, SandHutton said:

Hi All,

The other option would be to 3d print centres as missy did with hers and I might go down this route if the re-rimming route proves too tricky.

Thanks

Guy

 

Hi Guy.

 

If you want the stl for them let me know.

 

M :)

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1 hour ago, -missy- said:

Hi Guy.

 

If you want the stl for them let me know.

 

M :)

 

Hi Missy, 

 

That's very kind of you.  At the moment I have sent an message on the group.io to Keith Armes to see how he did his conversions but if I decide to go down the 3d printed route I will let you know. 

 

All the best

 

Guy

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1 hour ago, SandHutton said:

 

Hi Missy, 

 

That's very kind of you.  At the moment I have sent an message on the group.io to Keith Armes to see how he did his conversions but if I decide to go down the 3d printed route I will let you know. 

 

All the best

 

Guy

Guy

 

worth putting C Class in search of io board 

 

Nick B

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13 hours ago, SandHutton said:

 

Hi Nigel / Izzy,

 

Unfortunately the C Class doesn't have the thick bearing surface as per the jinty and earlier models and is a metal wheel with a central insulating bush on a 2mm? axle which runs in bearings.  

And on reflection I agree that unless you held it in place with a rotating centre its likely to upset the insulating bush or rotate on the axle.

 

I have a lathe with Digital  readout so no excuses there and have a ER16 collet set which goes up to 10mm and some blanks.  I have machined wheels before but only to reduce the tyre and flange width. 

 

 

So the wheel sounds like it is similar to the 03/04 diesel shunter.

 

I'd make a chuck which locates the wheel on the bore (insulation pushed out), but clamps the wheel at/near the rim.  So, any turning pressure is only in the rim area.   Something like this is pretty quick to make and hold in a collet chuck.  Left part cylindrical, with axle to slide into wheel, threaded at end to take clamping nut.  Middle is clamping plate with hole through centre.  Right is clamping nut to engage on thread (washer optional).  Exact dimensions depends on wheel in question.  

 

904218683_Annotation2020-09-11095158.png.177029bb20e044c6c4b4b69173806983.png

 

 

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It seems Bachmann might have abandoned the wheel bearing current collection system and reverted back to using the previous wheel design with wiper pickups. No doubt the arrival of the forthcoming 8F might be a further indication as to whether this is the case, always depending of course on how far along the tooling was when any change was decided upon.

 

Izzy

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The 8F will indeed have wiper pickups as on the C which I think is a great shame. The good news is that I'm pretty confident that the 56xx from RevolutionN will have bearings similar to the Farish Jinty etc so should be much more straight forward to convert.

 

Jerry

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