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12 minutes ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

You can either get the wheels turned down to 2FS standards, or there is an etched chassis kit (3-640 in the 2mm shop listings) to replace the Farish one completely. No drop-in wheels for this model as it is to an old design (unless you can find some of the old "Ballantine" wheelsets which were made many years ago).

 

Andy


The J94 chassis is rather unsatisfactory in my experience. I have a Ballantine rewheeled J94 and while it runs, it's not what I would call a happy mechanism. It originally had turned down wheels as it was converted for the earlier editions of the 2mm Beginners Guide.

This long predated the chassis kit, which I feel is now the right route to a very much better loco in the long run, particularly as we now have accurate wheels in the 2mm shop.

The body does require some work to improve it. RT Models have an etched set of parts to upgrade the cab.  The chassis kit will require some work to provide the visible part of the boiler under the saddle tank.

Quite few of us had high hopes for the N scale DJM J94 being an improvement on the Farish model but it seems that avenue is now closed off for the foreseeable future.

Mark

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Hi,

 

It’s possible, the replacement chassis from the 2mm shop gives a much better looking engine than getting the Farish wheels turned down, but if you’ve got a new-ish Farish one sending the wheels to Gordon will get you a J94 that runs on 2mm track.  

 

The body is improve-able with the RT Models detailing kit and some handrails, but it’s not as good as a new model would have been.

 

Cheers

Simon

 

PS: Thanks for your help yesterday, the callipers came, 15.18mm on the milk tanker wheels - 15.2s on the shopping list :)

Edited by MrSimon
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I'm going crazy!!!

 

The Class 04 replacement chassis pictured below runs beautifully, but only under its own wight, on an incline (actually this is my first time in many attempts I managed to get a chassis running so well - the quartering is just perfect). Then, I tried to run it using a motor, in fact many different motors (the Association one, the cheap eBay Graham Farish clone, the very expensive Maxon, a Nigel Lowton), and it's the same outcome with all of them: it looks like the worm gear literally chews the worm-wheel - I can see, under the magnifying glass how very small nylon bits are blown away from the worm.

 

For these tests, I held the motor in one hand and the chassis in the other hand then slowly moving the worm fitted on the motor to the gear-wheel on the chassis; I tried a firm mesh as well as a loose one.

 

Could anyone tell, please, WHAT IS WRONG with my chassis?

 

 

Photo_20201024-1609_1819.jpg

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41 minutes ago, Valentin said:

I'm going crazy!!!

 

The Class 04 replacement chassis pictured below runs beautifully, but only under its own wight, on an incline (actually this is my first time in many attempts I managed to get a chassis running so well - the quartering is just perfect). Then, I tried to run it using a motor, in fact many different motors (the Association one, the cheap eBay Graham Farish clone, the very expensive Maxon, a Nigel Lowton), and it's the same outcome with all of them: it looks like the worm gear literally chews the worm-wheel - I can see, under the magnifying glass how very small nylon bits are blown away from the worm.

 

For these tests, I held the motor in one hand and the chassis in the other hand then slowly moving the worm fitted on the motor to the gear-wheel on the chassis; I tried a firm mesh as well as a loose one.

 

Could anyone tell, please, WHAT IS WRONG with my chassis?

 

 

Photo_20201024-1609_1819.jpg

have you checked its not one of the miscut worm sets ?

 

have emailed you the info about these

 

Nick B

Edited by nick_bastable
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Have you tried it without the rods on?  Will it drive the one axle?   i would doubt your ability to hold the motor and the chassis together in a stable enough way to draw conclusions.  Far better to have some means of fixing the motor in place IMHO.

 

Jim

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Thanks, Jim. Yes, I've tried with the rods off and it was almost the same. Anyway, at Nick's suggestion I compared the worm-gear with others I have and this looks different.

 

Now I have to find the best way to replace the gear with another one and not ruining the quartering or distorting the chassis frames - slim chance, but not impossible :). I will probably melt the muff with the soldering iron.

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2 hours ago, Valentin said:

Thanks, Jim. Yes, I've tried with the rods off and it was almost the same. Anyway, at Nick's suggestion I compared the worm-gear with others I have and this looks different.

 

Now I have to find the best way to replace the gear with another one and not ruining the quartering or distorting the chassis frames - slim chance, but not impossible :). I will probably melt the muff with the soldering iron.

 

Oh dear, the "wrong way round wormwheels" strike again - a batch with the skew-teeth cut the wrong way got out, and not all were caught before being sold to people.  (Or, make a worm with a LH helix :-) )    Yes, removal is soldering iron to melt the muff carrying the gears in question.  Enough to melt it so the lay-shaft can be pushed out, then the gears drop away, and you can probably clean up and re-use the good spur gear.   

 

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51 minutes ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

Oh dear, the "wrong way round wormwheels" strike again - a batch with the skew-teeth cut the wrong way got out, and not all were caught before being sold to people.  (Or, make a worm with a LH helix :-) )    Yes, removal is soldering iron to melt the muff carrying the gears in question.  Enough to melt it so the lay-shaft can be pushed out, then the gears drop away, and you can probably clean up and re-use the good spur gear.   

 

But this was two years ago Nigel. The problem became apparent shortly before I became Sales Officer and I flagged the issue up in the Newsletter and, I believe, here. I'd say it's more a case of "the gloat box strikes again". At the time, members were urged to check their recent purchases and were offered a corrected set FOC. 

 

There was only one batch of incorrect gearsets sold through the shop and in fairly limited quantities. Whilst the situation wasn't resolved with the supplier, it prompted us to start producing our own gears again; no bad thing in my book. 

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Just to be clear: I am happy I found the problem with my chassis and I didn't loose my sanity - I have no intention to claim that any current or former shopkeeper is responsible for this fault with the gears. Obviously, I missed or forgot about the mention in the Newsletter.

Edited by Valentin
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2 hours ago, justin1985 said:

Are there any generic etched mesh catwalk type parts available that would suit a 2mm wagon? Or sheets of etched mesh that could be used?

 

I'm planning to approximate this tank wagon using the PECO kit and Association chassis: https://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/35712013306/in/album-72157685827366556/

 

 

J

 

Jason,

 

BH Enterprises would be a source of mesh in normal circumstances, but not at the moment.

 

N Brass do chequer plate (as part of a fallplate etch), but not sure about mesh etc.

 

Simon

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2 hours ago, justin1985 said:

Are there any generic etched mesh catwalk type parts available that would suit a 2mm wagon? Or sheets of etched mesh that could be used?

 

I'm planning to approximate this tank wagon using the PECO kit and Association chassis: https://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/35712013306/in/album-72157685827366556/

 

 

J

 

Justin,

 

The only source that springs to mind is Scale Link Fretcetera;

 

https://www.scalelinkfretcetera.co.uk/product-category/frets/meshes-various-shapes-and-sizes-any-scale/

 

I don't have any experience of these though.

 

Andy

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13 hours ago, Valentin said:

Thanks, Jim. Yes, I've tried with the rods off and it was almost the same. Anyway, at Nick's suggestion I compared the worm-gear with others I have and this looks different.

 

Now I have to find the best way to replace the gear with another one and not ruining the quartering or distorting the chassis frames - slim chance, but not impossible :). I will probably melt the muff with the soldering iron.


As the lay shaft has to be in two halves for chassis insulation I always leave them only partly pushed in until all is proved okay. If not a pair of pliers can grip the ends and they can be twisted out. ( I insert/remove shafts/axles using a twisting action - one way - like screwing in/out a bolt/screw). But even if they are fully pushed home, with good support around the shaft area it should be possible to punch the half axles through to release the lay shaft.

 

Izzy

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11 hours ago, justin1985 said:

Are there any generic etched mesh catwalk type parts available that would suit a 2mm wagon? Or sheets of etched mesh that could be used?

 

I'm planning to approximate this tank wagon using the PECO kit and Association chassis: https://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/35712013306/in/album-72157685827366556/

 

J

 

Hi Justin.

 

These might be adaptable if you can find a set...

 

http://www.tpmodels.co.uk/1820.html

 

Julia.

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3 hours ago, -missy- said:

These might be adaptable if you can find a set...

 

http://www.tpmodels.co.uk/1820.html

 

Thanks Julia - I actually did some of these detailing projects on Farish wagons years ago, and I had a search around to see if I could find any leftovers, but no such luck :( I don't suppose @BernardTPM happens to have any more available?

 

2 hours ago, Pixie said:

What dimensions do you need Justin? I can offer a set of Western walkways. 
Pix

 

These look like they might be ideal, Pix! Ideally it would be the full length of the top of the wagon - which is ~30-32mm. That might be a bit longer than the Western roof walkway?

 

12 hours ago, 2mm Andy said:

The only source that springs to mind is Scale Link Fretcetera;

 

https://www.scalelinkfretcetera.co.uk/product-category/frets/meshes-various-shapes-and-sizes-any-scale/

 

I don't have any experience of these though.

 

Andy

 

Thanks Andy - that was the kind of thing I was sure I'd seen somewhere. I can't help but imagine they might be very tricky to cut to size and work with neatly, but I might well order one or two to experiment with anyway. 

 

Cheers all!

 

Justin

 

EDIT ....

 

Come to think about it, I wonder if I might try 3D printing it. The TPM etches are more chequerboard than actually see-through, and they look great. Whereas etched mesh would probably be very tricky to work with and fix into place without clogging it, unless it was custom made to size with a frame, like Pix's Western walkway. So maybe a print with texture, and the "wedges" to support it horizontally above the barrel of the tank might be a good option?

Edited by justin1985
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11 minutes ago, justin1985 said:

Thanks Julia - I actually did some of these detailing projects on Farish wagons years ago, and I had a search around to see if I could find any leftovers, but no such luck :( I don't suppose @BernardTPM happens to have any more available?

I'm out of etches for 1820-23, but I do have some reject 1830/31 type etches that could be rearranged. I also have some of the 1820-23 manhole castings. Drop me an e-mail if you think they might be of use.

For those detailing the old Peco 10' w.b. tank I've still got lots of the 2820/1 etches.

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5 minutes ago, BernardTPM said:

I'm out of etches for 1820-23, but I do have some reject 1830/31 type etches that could be rearranged. I also have some of the 1820-23 manhole castings. Drop me an e-mail if you think they might be of use.

For those detailing the old Peco 10' w.b. tank I've still got lots of the 2820/1 etches.

 

Thanks Bernard - that could be just the ticket! I'll send you a direct message. 

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Evening all.  I've just been onto Shop 1 to build an order for track (the 100mm of Easitrac that came with the wagon starter kit is probably not enough for what I've got in mind!) to find that quite a few bits are marked as TOS.  What's folks' experience of this sort of thing - how "temporary" is "temporarily"?  Do I come back in a couple of days, or do I look for a different project for a wee while?

 

Richard

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The "retailer in question" is the Association shop (or one third of it, anyway).

 

As I regularly comment in the Newsletter, which I'm sure you all read very carefully:

  • The best person to ask about availability of products is the Sales Officer (me!). Email me at sales@2mm.org.uk. Shopkeepers are very unlikely to know when items are going to be back in stock - they might know that an item has been reordered, but they will likely not know what the lead time is. I would make them aware if there were problems/delays but otherwise they have other things to do.
  • Please, please, please do not "stock-up" on items just on the off chance that you might use them in the next 12 months. There are currently no significant supplier issues, but we are extremely busy - sales this year are up 30% and are showing no sign of slowing. Some items have gone out of stock (more than I might like) but these are being attended to. Easitrac moldings and kits are due in shop 1 fairly soon; probably a couple of weeks.

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Yorkshire Square said:

 

  • Please, please, please do not "stock-up" on items just on the off chance that you might use them in the next 12 months. 

 

Empty shelves have already been spotted in supermarkets due to the new lockdown panic.

 

Surely, we are better than that :)

 

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3 hours ago, Yorkshire Square said:
  • Please, please, please do not "stock-up" on items just on the off chance that you might use them in the next 12 months.

Thanks, Yorkshire Square - the obvious didn't occur to me, so I'll fire my wish list at you by email and we'll take it from there.  And I promise to only ask for what I need.  (Hmm, I don't need any of it, but you know what I mean)

 

Richard

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