Any Question Answered

[richbrummitt]

This vice https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/vices-bench-vice-jaws/v9692

is the one that I and many others use. 
 

 

[2mm Andy]

1 hour ago, Geordie Exile said:

Evening all. I need to add a decent smooth-jawed vice to my toolbox, specifically for folding etches. I've been making do with a pair of pliers, which are perfect for the smaller parts, but solebars and now the roof tabs on this Toad need more respectful treatment.

 

I'm looking for recommendations please. (The folding gadget on Eileen's Emporium seems hideously pricey)

 

Thanks 

 

Richard

 

The Hold and Fold tools are expensive, but they're extremely useful if you are building a lot of kits and don't really wear out. You could always make your own for a few pounds;

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JbMH5AUdl-k

 

One problem with a modelling vice is the length of the jaws - the hold and fold tools really come into their own when you want to make long folds (carriage underframes, etc.).

 

edit - another option is this tool from Peedie Models, although I've not seen one used for 2mm modelling;

 

https://www.peediemodels.com/proddetail.php?prod=Photo_Etch_Folding_Tool

 

Andy

Edited November 13, 2020 by 2mm Andy

[nick_bastable]

20 minutes ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

 

edit - another option is this tool from Peedie Models, although I've not seen one used for 2mm modelling;

 

https://www.peediemodels.com/proddetail.php?prod=Photo_Etch_Folding_Tool

 

Andy

been a budget modeller I have the peedlie version and it works very well  great mail order service in my experiance  

 

Nick B

Edited November 13, 2020 by nick_bastable

[Caley Jim]

No experience of the Peedie tool, but  wouldn't be without my small Hold and Fold.

 

Jim

[Sithlord75]

Another vote for a hold and fold.   Worth it if you build more than 10 kits I reckon.

 

Cheers

Kevin of Oz

[Chris Higgs]

1 hour ago, Sithlord75 said:

Another vote for a hold and fold.   Worth it if you build more than 10 kits I reckon.

 

Cheers

Kevin of Oz

 

Me too. I have a small and a large.

 

Not that a good bench vice is a bad idea, far from it. But there are quite a few things it could never do that the hold and fold can.

 

Chris

[Valentin]

On 10/11/2020 at 08:47, CF MRC said:

Remove the frames and coupling rods, open up the frame axle holes to 1.5mm.

 

When using a pillar drill, is it better to open the axle holes from 0.5mm to 1.5mm in steps? It didn't end up very well when I did it with a pin vice.

 

Quote

This may seem long winded, but small drills can wander when drilling over a distance.  I presume you are using a pillar drill - if so use some cutting oil (or light oil) to lubricate the drill when working on the brass block and keep clearing it.

 

I used the Proxxon milling machine and a good quality helix carbide1.5 mm bit to drill a hole in a 6mm brass block. The exit hole deviated by approx. 0.05mm. Is this acceptable?

[CF MRC]

Yes, probably acceptable. Modern TC drills are much better than the old type.  A 1.5mm conventional drill isn’t going to wander too far anyway. 
 

Tim

Edited November 14, 2020 by CF MRC

[Valentin]

When tightening one of the two thumb screws of the loco chassis frame assembly jig, it came off the threaded rod (pictured below). What is the best option to put them back together?

 

[CF MRC]

Loctite ideally,  but if you haven’t got any an even smear of epoxy will do the trick. 
 

Tim

[Caley Jim]

Going back to the Hold and Fold, can I pass on a little trick I've found useful?

 

I was finding that when trying to form a bend where the parts were very narrow, the etch was tending to spring out of the tool.  Giving it some thought I realised that when you clamp down the top part with the screw, the back of it would be hard down on the base with the result that the etch was only being gripped by the innermost edge, thus:

This can be overcome by placing a piece of material of the same thickness as the etch on the other side of the tightening screw :

 

Further thought led me to put two thicknesses there so that the grip is right at the edge of the bend line :

 

 

Which works even better.

 

Another thing I always do is score along the bend line first. 

 

HTH.

 

Jim

 

[1965Nick]

Hi,

being some what new to 2mm modelling... can anyone tell me if Stephen Harris still offer his range of etches? 
what sort of turnaround for orders is there? 
Just can’t believe how much I’m enjoying etched kit construction after a hiatus of nearly 30 years. 

[Nigelcliffe]

1 hour ago, 1965Nick said:

Hi,

being some what new to 2mm modelling... can anyone tell me if Stephen Harris still offer his range of etches? 
what sort of turnaround for orders is there? 
Just can’t believe how much I’m enjoying etched kit construction after a hiatus of nearly 30 years. 

 

Glad you're enjoying things.    Details of Stephen's range are on the "small suppliers" bit of the 2mm Scale Association website, along with how to contact him (traditional methods of 30 years ago, not this modern stuff).  

 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/small_suppliers/index.htm

 

- Nigel

[Ian Smeeton]

23 hours ago, 1965Nick said:

Hi,

being some what new to 2mm modelling... can anyone tell me if Stephen Harris still offer his range of etches? 
what sort of turnaround for orders is there? 
Just can’t believe how much I’m enjoying etched kit construction after a hiatus of nearly 30 years. 

 

I dealt with Stephen for the first time a week or two ago.

 

I always worry about phoning someone, especially someone I do not know, at what, to me, seems like quite a late hour.

 

But I needn't have worried. Exceptionally nice & friendly over the phone, and kits and instructions received in a couple of days.

 

I haven't started them, yet (this weekend if I can get some free time in the shed), but they look great, and having read the destructions a couple of times, I am really looking forward to them.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[1965Nick]

Thanks for that, I get anxious making telephone calls, I feel better about calling him now. The issue is now, what’s kits to order, there are so many to choose from. 

[Geordie Exile]

I'm about to knock up a(nother) pair of DGs, and I've not used blackener before.  Should I blacken the individual elements before construction, or after?  Is it better to brush it on, or dunk the elements in a wee blackener bath?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Richard 

[Izzy]

I now blacken the whole etch before taking bits off but I guess it doesn’t really matter. Just brush it on laid on the cutting mat, then turn it over and do the other side. The one face down gets soaked in what’s on the mat and darkens nicely, so I turn them over once or twice before washing under water, and generally leave it a while at each stage.

 

Izzy

[Ian Morgan]

I add a fillet of solder on all the bends to strengthen them, as the brass bends easily. Blackening does odd things to the solder. Now, I just solder the couplings to the cahassis and give the whole lot a squirt of grey primer and matt black before weathering.

[Sithlord75]

On 21/11/2020 at 05:50, Ian Smeeton said:

 

I dealt with Stephen for the first time a week or two ago.

 

I always worry about phoning someone, especially someone I do not know, at what, to me, seems like quite a late hour.

 

But I needn't have worried. Exceptionally nice & friendly over the phone, and kits and instructions received in a couple of days.

 

I haven't started them, yet (this weekend if I can get some free time in the shed), but they look great, and having read the destructions a couple of times, I am really looking forward to them.

 

Regards

 

Ian

What kits did you get please Ian?  I've an interest in some but shall have to rely on a third party I think given where I am in the world!  I know a couple of people who'll probably be willing but having an idea of what he presently has available (as the list is 5 years old!) would be useful.

[Geordie Exile]

One day I will be able to answer others' questions rather than continually asking them.  Until then...

 

I'm staring at the eight pages (plus associated step-by-step photos) of the Easitrac turnout kit.  There are references in both to this handy wee gadget:

Namely, the etched plate assembly/soldering jig.  It's probably really obvious, but I can't see it in Shop 1, and I don't have the skills, dimensions, materials or inclination to make one.  No doubt someone will reply with "1-nnn" and I'll perform the statutory facepalm.

 

Richard

Edited November 26, 2020 by Geordie Exile

[2mm Andy]

3 hours ago, Geordie Exile said:

One day I will be able to answer others' questions rather than continually asking them.  Until then...

 

I'm staring at the eight pages (plus associated step-by-step photos) of the Easitrac turnout kit.  There are references in both to this handy wee gadget:

Namely, the etched plate assembly/soldering jig.  It's probably really obvious, but I can't see it in Shop 1, and I don't have the skills, dimensions, materials or inclination to make one.  No doubt someone will reply with "1-nnn" and I'll perform the statutory facepalm.

 

Richard

 

Richard,  I think it's 1-231. Best bet is to drop David at Shop 1 an email attaching the above photo - he will be able to confirm.

 

regards,

 

Andy

[John57sharp]

It is  1-231 and it’s really useful. I recently bought it having reached this stage with the kit. 
 

John

[Geordie Exile]

Thanks, gentlemen.

 

(On a side note, if I'd gone for a RMWeb pseudonym along Andy's lines, I'd have been 2mm Dick. Think I'll stick with Geordie Exile )

 

Richard 

[Caley Jim]

3 hours ago, Geordie Exile said:

(On a side note, if I'd gone for a RMWeb pseudonym along Andy's lines, I'd have been 2mm Dick. Think I'll stick with Geordie Exile )

Well, you are a Geordie and can you think of a nicer place to which to be exiled?

 

Jim

[Valentin]

I need some 1.2mm diameter steel rod and I found these welding rods on Amazon (huge quantity - 50x 1ft in length for under £10). I wonder if they are straight enough to use them as shafts and axles.

 

Another option is to get these very small - only 30mm in length - stainless steel rods which I am quite sure they are straight, but very expensive at £3.95!!! And I need two...