Any Question Answered

[Kylestrome]

6 hours ago, Valentin said:

Is it safe for a mill to be used as a saw? As in cutting, with a slow, constant X / Y movement, 0.7mm P/B sheet.

 

It's no less safe than using it for milling.

 

It's always a good idea to wear safety glasses, as with any kind of machining, as there will be swarf flying about and the possibility of the tool breaking.

 

Just take it slow and listen for sounds of distress from the tool.

 

David

Edited March 28, 2021 by Kylestrome

[117puzzler]

Hi guys and girls. 
 

hope this question finds you all well
 

Would like to know if there is a preferred method of attaching the insulated screw sleeves.
 

I have two in mind. The obvious one is to drill a hole to suit and glue in the sleeve and the second is to drill a hole that is a light press fit and press the sleeve in. 
any answers or further ideas on the matter would be much appreciated 

 

thanks 

Adam 

[Llangerisech]

Hello Adam,

Thee sleeves were devised by Alan Smith for use in the Manor brass chassis kit that I prototyped. I have been using the sleeves in all sorts of chassis since and you basically drill the main hole and the countersink section to get the depth. Apart from that I never glued them. They are a little squishy so once tightened up expand a bit and don't  tend to fall out. If you drill a tad oversize a spot of glue is fine but may not be required. They can be used to hold two halves of a chassis together as on th Manor or used to insulate the chassis from the footplate. I have found many uses for these.

Cheer's Nigel

[oily]

Can I ask a really basic maybe stupid question as I'm trying an experiment to add synchronised sound to a loco.

 

How many chuffs would a Midland Compound do per driver revolution?

 

Oli

[Caley Jim]

4 minutes ago, oily said:

How many chuffs would a Midland Compound do per driver revolution?

That will depend on the relationship between the cranks of the outside cylinders and that of the inside one.  Not being an expert on this 'foreign' company I'm afraid I can't help further.   

 

Jim

 

[Donw]

A compound means the steam gets used twice once in a high pressure cylinder and a second time in a low pressure cylinder. I assume the low pressure must be slightly differently set to get the steam flow right. Ignoring the low pressure as I would expect the main chuff to come from the high pressure. There will be two HP cylinders one each side set 90 deg apart. The cylinders will be double acting ( a push on the forward and return strokes) so I would expect two chuff from each cylinder thus four in total per revolution.

Don

[Nick Mitchell]

I found this video on YouTube showing the preserved Compound 1000 double heading with Jubilee Leander over the S&C in the early 80s.

At the start of the clip, you can only hear the Compound's exhaust, which sounds just like an ordinary 2 cylinder engine. One of the left hand cylinder drain taps is blowing through once per revolution of the wheels. After about 18 seconds, Leander is opened up, and her 6/8 beat becomes audible, drowning out the Compound somewhat.

 

 

[Caley Jim]

9 minutes ago, Nick Mitchell said:

At the start of the clip, you can only hear the Compound's exhaust, which sounds just like an ordinary 2 cylinder engine. 

When you think about, there will be no exhaust beat from the inside HP cylinder as that feeds the outside LP ones, so only their exhaust will be heard.

 

Jim

[2mm Andy]

1 hour ago, Nick Mitchell said:

I found this video on YouTube showing the preserved Compound 1000 double heading with Jubilee Leander over the S&C in the early 80s.

At the start of the clip, you can only hear the Compound's exhaust, which sounds just like an ordinary 2 cylinder engine. One of the left hand cylinder drain taps is blowing through once per revolution of the wheels. After about 18 seconds, Leander is opened up, and her 6/8 beat becomes audible, drowning out the Compound somewhat.

 

 

I've found a short clip here of 1000 working solo and another featuring a Fowler compound as part of an episode of "Railway Roundabout" (from 2:42 of the latter clip is probably the clearest bit);

 

 

 

Andy

[Valentin]

What kind of blowtorch would be most suitable for soldering together two strips of 0.7 - 1 mm brass for building locomotive frames? Will it work for soldering P/B bearings to a square bar of 5 - 6 mm brass?

[Donw]

One of these would be suitable   https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28146.php

 

I have a very similar one I use away from the workbench ( including in the motorhome) . It uses Butane light a lighter. On my workbench I have a Jewellers Microflame unit but overkill for the odd bit of soldering. That one uses electricity to provide the gas.

 

Don

 

Just a comment. Quite often I tin the parts to be joined then put them together. Wooded clothes pegs can be used as clamps but get your own as she will not be amused at the odd bit of charring. Then apply the flame as the solder melts take the heat away and the parts should now be joined.

Edited April 5, 2021 by Donw

[bill-lobb]

17 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

That will depend on the relationship between the cranks of the outside cylinders and that of the inside one.  Not being an expert on this 'foreign' company I'm afraid I can't help further.   

 

Jim

 

The outside LP cylinder  cranks were set at 90deg to each other with the inside at 135 so as others have said the answer is 4 beats . However for a period no 1098 was modified to have the 3 cranks at 120 deg to each other. That must have sounded pretty odd.

[117puzzler]

On 04/04/2021 at 10:17, Llangerisech said:

Hello Adam,

Thee sleeves were devised by Alan Smith for use in the Manor brass chassis kit that I prototyped. I have been using the sleeves in all sorts of chassis since and you basically drill the main hole and the countersink section to get the depth. Apart from that I never glued them. They are a little squishy so once tightened up expand a bit and don't  tend to fall out. If you drill a tad oversize a spot of glue is fine but may not be required. They can be used to hold two halves of a chassis together as on th Manor or used to insulate the chassis from the footplate. I have found many uses for these.

Cheer's Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thanks for the reply and info. The selves have being added to the chassis last night and seem to do as I intend. No doubt I will find other uses. 
cheers 

Adam. 

[LNERJP]

Hi All

 

I have under construction some Chivers BBA wagons and the 2mm shop has item 2-405 which is listed as a composite frame, has anyone any experience of these? or possibly a picture of one to see if they will work with the Chivers bogie?

 

Cheers

JP

[PaulCheffus]

17 hours ago, LNERJP said:

Hi All

 

I have under construction some Chivers BBA wagons and the 2mm shop has item 2-405 which is listed as a composite frame, has anyone any experience of these? or possibly a picture of one to see if they will work with the Chivers bogie?

 

Cheers

JP

Hi

 

I’ve used them on the old TPM nuclear flash wagon and can take you a photo tomorrow when the light is better.

 

I am currently waiting for them to come back into stock for a different project.

 

You could also look at item 2-394 as the photo shows them with the castings attached.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Edited April 9, 2021 by PaulCheffus
Added photo

[2mmMark]

Right - 3D printer question.  I know there's an RMWeb section specifically for this subject but I'm asking in a 2mm context.  What is the popular printer for our particular scale?  Looking at the prices, they're now looking pretty affordable with quite excellent results, so now seems like a good time to get to grips with the technology. 

Mark



 

[Sithlord75]

17 minutes ago, 2mmMark said:

Right - 3D printer question.  I know there's an RMWeb section specifically for this subject but I'm asking in a 2mm context.  What is the popular printer for our particular scale?  Looking at the prices, they're now looking pretty affordable with quite excellent results, so now seems like a good time to get to grips with the technology. 

Mark



 

You’ll find the answer is the same one as “what’s the best TOU?” or “what’s the best coupling?”.  
 

I’m very pleased with my Anycubic Photon using the makers resin.  The RCHs printed well with 0.4mm sides and I get good rivet detail.  The model I purchased has been superseded twice.  
 

As with most tech, you pays your money etc.  There is a bit of a learn - I used about half a litre of resin learning what not to do with mine.

 

Not a lot of help maybe but it’s a start!

[nick_bastable]

1 hour ago, Sithlord75 said:

You’ll find the answer is the same one as “what’s the best TOU?” or “what’s the best coupling?”.  
 

I’m very pleased with my Anycubic Photon using the makers resin.  The RCHs printed well with 0.4mm sides and I get good rivet detail.  The model I purchased has been superseded twice.  
 

As with most tech, you pays your money etc.  There is a bit of a learn - I used about half a litre of resin learning what not to do with mine.

 

Not a lot of help maybe but it’s a start!

totally agree with the simile,    I however is very  happy with my Elegoo Mars   but its down to budget in the end  you pay your  money and make your choice 

 

Nick B

 

[Donw]

I was advised by someone the the ENDER 3 would be good for 7mm and he has some useful files for GW signal parts. He did suggest it might not be fine enough or small scales.

There is also the material used resin or filament both have their plusses.  I would suggest you talk to someone you know who has produced 2mm stuff that you like. That way you will have something useful and gain experience.

There is also the question of where the machine will be sited if indoors you want minimal smells etc. If in a detached garage or outbuilding this is of less consequence.

As yet I haven't purchased a machine modelling in 16mm/7mm and 2mm makes the choice harder.

 

Don

[LNERJP]

Quote

 

 

I have under construction some Chivers BBA wagons and the 2mm shop has item 2-405 which is listed as a composite frame, has anyone any experience of these? or possibly a picture of one to see if they will work with the Chivers bogie?

 

Cheers

JP

Expand  

Hi

 

I’ve used them on the old TPM nuclear flash wagon and can take you a photo tomorrow when the light is better.

 

I am currently waiting for them to come back into stock for a different project.

 

You could also look at item 2-394 as the photo shows them with the castings attached.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Thanks Paul, they look ideal, I will put my BBA's to one side until the shop has them back in stock.

 

JP

Edited April 9, 2021 by LNERJP

[Royal42]

Hello all, I am in need of advice please.  I am about to order a turnout set, plus some bullhead sleepers and loco wheels, for my Birmingham New Street diorama.  My problem is that I do not understand how to identify the components of what I need.  Can anyone help with these queries?

 

a.   there appears to be two sizes of sleepers, 8ft 6in and 9ft 0in, which size would I need for the ex-LMS/LNWR up to 1964?

 

b.  Looking at the available locomotive wheels available, Mk.4 and Mk.5 etc., how can I identify what locos they would fit?

 

c.  how can I identify and work out what radius turnout I need?  The turnouts on my layout appear to be fairly gentle but that isn't a recognised term when ordering these.  Any advice here please?

 

 

The items I want to buy will be my first test/taster to building the rest of this layout and so would like to order the correct bits.

 

cheers,

Mike

Edited April 14, 2021 by Royal42

[Ian Smith]

25 minutes ago, Royal42 said:

Hello all, I am in need of advice please.  I am about to order a turnout set, plus some bullhead sleepers and loco wheels, for my Birmingham New Street diorama.  My problem is that I do not understand how to identify the components of what I need.  Can anyone help with these queries?

 

a.   there appears to be two sizes of sleepers, 8ft 6in and 9ft 0in, which size would I need for the ex-LMS/LNWR up to 1964?

 

b.  Looking at the available locomotive wheels available, Mk.4 and Mk.5 etc., how can I identify what locos they would fit?

 

c.  how can I identify and work out what radius turnout I need?  The turnouts on my layout appear to be fairly gentle but that isn't a recognised term when ordering these.  Any advice here please?

 

 

The items I want to buy will be my first test/taster to building the rest of this layout and so would like to order the correct bits.

 

cheers,

Mike

Mike,

There are many other members who are much more qualified to answer your queries, but ...

a. 9’0” sleepers were a pre-grouping size (pre 1923), so by 1964 in a main line situation like Brum New St I would expect 8’6” sleepers - I have no idea when concrete sleepers were introduced so they may be needed (anyone who knows me and my interest will understand that final comment).

b. The loco wheels supplied by the Association are “generic” so may not be entirely suitable for a specific class of locomotive (as a group we don’t generally concern ourselves too much about that although we do have H section spoked or Bullied wheels for certain circumstances). The older Mk4 wheels are cast brass, the new Mk5 being derived from 3D printing.

c. I can’t really advise on the Association turnout kits as I have never used them (again anyone who knows me will know why) 

 

hopefully someone with better knowledge will be along soon.

Ian

[Donw]

(ft sleepers were used in pre-group days  some would have lingered in sidings and the like but by 1964 I suspect all would be the later 8ft 6in ones in a busy area as the track would have been renewed by then.

 

wheels are defined by three characteristics

The profile

The diameter

The position and the size of the cranks throw

 

The wheels sold by the association have a suitable profile for the association standards no problem

The Mk4 and Mk5 are just sllightly different construction of the wheels

 

Wheels started at a nominal diameter and wore down in use usually after up to 3 ins of wear the tyre would be replaced. We only have a fixed range of sies so you normally opt for the nearest size below the nominal  so for a 4ft 1.5in wheel 8mm diameter would be the natural choice. Undersize is better than oversie due to our oversie flanges.

 

The position of the crankpin is either pin between spokes or pin in line. The crank throw is the distance from the axle centre to the crankpin centre and determines the piston throw. However we use the standard ones from the association as it is prohibitive for the association to supply a complete range. However it is becoming more practical using 3 printing to print your own centres and fit assocition tyres. This however would not be something for a novice you would be bet to build some locos first.

 

Point sizes. If this is from a full size plan you could be using the protype sizes which are probably quite large.  If choosing your own sizes I would prefer B7s, B8 and C8s for passgenger lines not that we need to be so concerned about the curvature but  coaches look better on those sizes. B6s and B7s are good for yards.

The other option would be to scan the plan into templot and then build up a templot plan from there as you are talking aabout a test first I would choose some suitable for that.

The other quetion is the type of construction you choose. I would need some idea of your experience  before advising.

 

Don

[Royal42]

Hello Don and Ian,

 

With regards to my working knowledge on railway modelling, out of a scale up to 10, I would put myself between -1 and +1 but I am enthusiastic to learn and apply any information I glean from members.  My diorama is a non-working scratchbuild of the western end of New Street Station, the enclosed area with the turntable.  I normally like to scratchbuild aircraft and ship models; however, if I am successful with this small 2ft 6in x 1ft 8in diorama then I might move on to building the whole station which would be approx 8ft wide.  Lots, and lots, to learn about railways before then though.

 

thank you for the explanations, they have helped a lot.  Just one point, I was looking for information pre-1964 and not that year itself.  My diorama period will be 1950 to 1963, after that the station was virtually rebuilt, with some platforms and roads being demolished and new ones laid re-routed etc.

 

The info about the wheels being generic suits me fine, I am scratchbuilding the layout plus as much of the loco's and rolling stock as I can.  The prices for N gauge locomotives are way beyond my pension and so I shall have to scratchbuild them.  I have a 3D UV resin printer and can make some basic bodies; however, the wheels would be a problem hence wanting to buy ready made.

 

Thanks for the advice on the sleepers, it would appear that I need 8ft 6in Bullhead sleepers.  I shall order those.   The turnout arcs/types still baffle me and that is a major cause of concern.  I don't want to buy a set of points/turnout only to find it doesn't fit and ends up on a shelf.

 

Thanks again,

Mike

Edited April 14, 2021 by Royal42

[2mm Andy]

Mike,

 

If your model is definitely going to be a non-working diorama then I wouldn't bother with loco wheels from the 2mm shop - they're rather expensive for what would be a static model (they are precision components designed for working models, hence the high price). A few members have generated models of loco wheels and 3d printed them so it is do-able in 2mm.

 

Andy