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Have been trying to pay an shop invoice using PayPal but I have been getting this error message for the last 24 hours:-

 

"This transaction has been declined to comply with international regulations".

 

Can anyone provide an explanation?

 

Kind regards

 

Geoff

 

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3 hours ago, Winchat said:

Have been trying to pay an shop invoice using PayPal but I have been getting this error message for the last 24 hours:-

 

"This transaction has been declined to comply with international regulations".

 

Can anyone provide an explanation?

 

Kind regards

 

Geoff

 


I paid an invoice not 12 hours ago without issue.

 

Probably best to give PayPal a call or send them an email.

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12 hours ago, Donw said:

........ I was looking at the walls alongside the pavements where  the danger would be a road vehicle crashing through and should it be a passenger train there would be concerns about the risks to passengers. They may be thicker if say there was a platform right underneath. Note too the one Andy shows has no piers therefore needs to be thicker, the ones I was looking at in your post had lots of piers which are used to strengthen walls. If you can see the caping on the walls 9inch walls would usually have a 12 inch wide caping and 18 inch wall would have a 21inch or 2ft caping.  Note two in a lot of cases there is a wider bit at the top of a wall  to add extra strength so a 9inch wall might have two top courses of 13.5 inches (that allows the thicker section to overhang by half a brick) there may be a thicker number of courses at the base too. Sometimes with the piers and the thicker courses top and bottom the 9inch bit looks like an inset panel.

Don

 

Although a much earlier photo, taken before Finlay's tobacco kiosk was built immediately to the right of the criss-cross hoarding, this angle gives a better view of the parapets.

1266953236_Untitled-74a.jpg.9eb7951951d9e4e46deb408018d9c4bb.jpg

 

This close in view gives the impression that there are two thicknesses of parapets?

Those three tunnels are going to be a real challenge.  The right tunnel appears to have girder over, then wall above and topped with a parapet wall.

63334546_Untitled-75a.jpg.63f028057fbf04e1dcfe3734ec9d6911.jpg

 

This 1938 view shows the tobacco kiosk in position next to the criss-cross hoarding.  The large pier, under the hoarding, looks to be too piers that become joined.  The main part supporting the girder bridge to the right and the other supporting the brick tunnel.  

new_street_station_05_at_navigation_street_junc_1938a.jpg.174acb14d5acd7bcf0c214c367b41694.jpg

 

 

I think I read somewhere that the iron bridge on the left was one of the longest on the railway.

new_street_station_05_at_navigation_street_junc_1938b.jpg.af57cafed5449434d802bac18d72677d.jpg

 

 

I'm gonna need a bigger supply of plasticard!

 

cheers,

 

Mike

 

 

 

Edited by Royal42
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Some really useful photos.  In the first one you can see the caping and the height ,if the view from the other side has a person stood by the wall you could estimate the height.  With the height you can then compare the width of the caping to the height to give a rough approximation of the caping width. Note that pier is extra wide because it is part of the support for the bridge over the tracks. There is a big difference between piers just strengthening a wall and a pier as part of a bridge abutment.

 

Don

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The planing Jigs would work but you need one for each size of switch. The 2mm planing jig works for A,B,C,D, sitches also 9ft,12ft,15,18ft straight switches. The jig for soldering to a chairplate is a separate one.

I note fine trax recommmend filling the rail on the planed side with solder. The method normally recomended is to file a short piece on that side then bend it so the edge is straight the planing proper can then be done on the other side. This means the tip is solid NS whereas the Finetrax way you have the top an bottom of the rail with solder between at the tip.

 

I cannot see a tiebar jig mentioned on the website do you mean the use of the planing jig to attach the chairplate if so the association jig will also do the job.

If you already have the Finetrax jigs they could be used with the Easitrax parts to make finescale track. Otherwise I would recommend the Association ones.

 

Don

 

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Hi Don,

I am finding your information useful also, thanks.  I plan to invest in some of these jigs for may future project, which will probably be all 2mm components.

 

In the interim, whilst I am working on my basic layout, I am going to need more track and the 'shapeable' tracks appear to be the easiest and, hopefully, cheapest for my current needs. 

Question for all:  where does one go to get the best value in purchasing flexible type track pieces?

 

cheers,
Mike

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On 19/04/2021 at 09:36, Royal42 said:

Hi Don,

I am finding your information useful also, thanks.  I plan to invest in some of these jigs for may future project, which will probably be all 2mm components.

 

In the interim, whilst I am working on my basic layout, I am going to need more track and the 'shapeable' tracks appear to be the easiest and, hopefully, cheapest for my current needs. 

Question for all:  where does one go to get the best value in purchasing flexible type track pieces?

 

cheers,
Mike

For 9mm gauge, Finetrax are the best choice

For 9.42mm, components come from the Association Shop, only open to members

Mark

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Ah! now I understand.  The Finetrax is a bespoke type and, possibly, for the specialist.   I am currently building a basic non-working diorama as my first layout.  I am doing this to learn about layouts, tracks and locomotives etc., and make my mistakes with this, before I move on to building a proper layout using 2mm Association components etc.  I thought that I would just throw the question in, about where to get cheap 'ordinary' flexible track for this basic layout, whilst chatting about my .

 

I apologise for lacking experience with layouts at the moment, although I am working hard at lowering the learning curve.  I am struggling to remember which forum to keep changing to when I have an additional query which, to me, is still relevant.  I'll get the hang of it, eventually.

 

cheers,
Mike

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2 hours ago, Royal42 said:

I thought that I would just throw the question in, about where to get cheap 'ordinary' flexible track for this basic layout, whilst chatting about my .

 

I think that your problem is that, although you don't intend it to operate, what you are proposing isn't a basic layout but rather a complex one with little plain track. As such you aren't going to find cheap 'ordinary' flexible track and much of it is going to be bespoke, made by hand.

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I am beginning to realise that.   I started out thinking I could make a cheap and small layout, within my pension budget and learn all about layouts that way.  Then, research and build a proper layout from those lessons learned but with correct trackwork and points etc.  It's not to late for me to change to Flexitrack, possibly with the intent of re-using it on the working layout.

 

Cheers,
Mike

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Mike,

if you already have bought the Black 5 in 2mm FS and you do not have  N gauge RTR items the Easitrac Bullhead from 2mm SA will be best- as many others already told.  

The ordinary flex track you  get cheap from online auctions may be the stiffer one and so not so helpful for your purpose (and code 80 anyway) . Just adding flex track in between your n gauge turnouts from your picure will not improve appearance much. (Well, you seem to put much emphasize on the right looking.)

If you can´t afford all the nice jigs making life easier do not worry.  If you need them when you come to problems  you can buy them later. 

I wish you patience and ideas for your ambitious project! 

 

cheers

Klaus

 

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Mike, if I can chuck in my tuppence worth, I feel that, given your self acknowledge lack of understanding of how track 'works' you're biting off more than you can chew by starting with such a complex layout.  I suppose it could be argued that, since it's not going to be a working layout, then it doesn't have to have the same precision to ensure smooth operation, but that is not going to help you when you do come to build a working layout.

I have built a fair bit of track, all bespoke turnouts, including diamonds and tandems (see my layout thread link in my signature) and I would think twice before tackling as complex a track plan as that.

The usual advice to a newcomer is to start with something simple with just a few turnouts, to get the feel of things and get something running.  Ambitious layouts are all very well, but you have to learn to walk before you can run.

 

I hope you take this in the constructive and supportive way it is intended.  I wouldn't like to see you dive in head first and then find you are way out of your comfort zone and give up.

 

Jim

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7 hours ago, Royal42 said:

I am beginning to realise that.   I started out thinking I could make a cheap and small layout, within my pension budget and learn all about layouts that way.  Then, research and build a proper layout from those lessons learned but with correct trackwork and points etc.  It's not to late for me to change to Flexitrack, possibly with the intent of re-using it on the working layout.

 

Cheers,
Mike


Mike, Jim's idea of starting with something more achievable in the short term is a good one. With that in mind, I've sketched out a possible idea for an urban diorama, something in the region of maybe 2½ to 3 feet long.  There are some plastic boxes under the "Really Useful" brand that can accomodate something like this and easily assembled baseboard kits - e.g. these: 
https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/layout-in-a-box---micro-layout-baseboards-310-c.asp

 

It's a reasonably simple concept and what you could do is lay one of the tracks to 2mm finescale standards using Easitrac components, the other to N gauge using Finetrax components in the same way. There wouldn't be a jarring visual difference between the two and it'll give you the chance to compare both systems without making a big commitment either way. 

The retaining wall can be typical of whatever suits your chosen area and topped with a rough scrub embankment or any other scenery as you see fit.  Alternatively, allotments on top might also be a nice touch. The beauty of this sort of scene is that you can make it as densely detailed as you like. The backscene could be a run of housebacks and back gardens, again scope for a lot of interesting modelling.  Down on track level you could add a huge amount of detail - point rodding, signals, ground signals, buffer stops, fogmans & platelayers huts, a grounded coach body mess hut, maybe even a signal box.

It wouldn't be a lot of work to wire up each of the lines so things could run. In fact I'd strongly encourage this.  A static diorama is OK but there's something nice to see models run. It might even be possible to plug this in to a more expanded layout once you've settled on what you want to build, like a sort of scenic fiddle yard.


idea.jpg.83795e4b0165aefa34404281f296b69b.jpg
Just a few thoughts. I'm almost tempted myself!

 

Mark

 


 

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Hello Mark,

The detail in the Aiden's image is just amazing and something that I would aspire to with my 2mm project.   It is similar to the west end of the station which I am currently building/attempting. 

 

64103761_Untitled-18a.jpg.93ade52a4daebffbf7cafb96e5612522.jpg

 

The first portion of my Black 5 kit, body and tender photo-etch, arrived yesterday but I won't make a start on it until I've obtained more pieces.

 

I am going to take up your suggestion, with the drawing, and am encouraged about Easitrac and Finetrax components alongside each other.   I need to build funds up before I can venture further into 2mm and mixing types would help me get something going as an initial layout.  My next planned purchase will be some Easitrac and a turnout jig, although I'm still not au fait with which jig to get yet; probably a B6 as that sounds to be the lesser angle.

 

Thanks again,

Mike

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3 hours ago, Royal42 said:

 I am going to take up your suggestion, with the drawing, and am encouraged about Easitrac and Finetrax components alongside each other.   I need to build funds up before I can venture further into 2mm and mixing types would help me get something going as an initial layout.  My next planned purchase will be some Easitrac and a turnout jig, although I'm still not au fait with which jig to get yet; probably a B6 as that sounds to be the lesser angle.

 

Thanks again,

Mike

 

Treat my rough sketch merely as a starting point. An immediate improvement would be to either curve the tracks slightly or align them at an angle from the edges of the baseboard.  You can see how that would better reflect the type of layout in your photograph and would look better visually.

Mark

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Having recently made that fateful first step into 2mm and kit-building my first victim has been the mineral wagon from the Association taster kit. Etched metal being an entirely new medium to me, I am rather proud the result vaguely resembles a wagon chassis. However, there is one minor niggle; the wheels do not want to run in their bearings at all.

Normally, I would just take my pliers, bend the w irons and hope for the best. However, being new to wagon kits I thought it is perhaps better to check I am not doing more harm than good.

Are there any other common reasons why wheels would not run freely? I have attached two rather crude pictures in case something is obvious from them. For example, I noticed the rim of the bearings protrudes above the inside of the w irons, but I do not know if that is expected.

I have another two kits waiting to be started. Do you have any recommendations to avoid running issues in the future?

 

P.s. these cruel close ups are rather useful. I just noticed a few tabs I forgot to file

 

IMG_8898.jpg

IMG_8902.jpg

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8 minutes ago, andreas said:

Having recently made that fateful first step into 2mm and kit-building my first victim has been the mineral wagon from the Association taster kit. Etched metal being an entirely new medium to me, I am rather proud the result vaguely resembles a wagon chassis. However, there is one minor niggle; the wheels do not want to run in their bearings at all.

Normally, I would just take my pliers, bend the w irons and hope for the best. However, being new to wagon kits I thought it is perhaps better to check I am not doing more harm than good.

Are there any other common reasons why wheels would not run freely? I have attached two rather crude pictures in case something is obvious from them. For example, I noticed the rim of the bearings protrudes above the inside of the w irons, but I do not know if that is expected.

I have another two kits waiting to be started. Do you have any recommendations to avoid running issues in the future?

 

P.s. these cruel close ups are rather useful. I just noticed a few tabs I forgot to file

 

IMG_8898.jpg

IMG_8902.jpg

 

Hi Andreas,

 

I built one of these as well (albeit a few months ago). The construction looks good to me. I would check that the distance across the inside of the tophat bearings is correct. From memory, it should be 11.5 mm. 

 

I had to gently prise open the W-irons just a fraction to get the wheels to turn freely at the correct distance. It might also be worth washing the whole thing and checking that there is no debris in the tophats. 

 

Cheers,

 

Adam

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Welcome to the Dark Side @andreas!

 

I'd say that your W irons are too tight and they'll need to be eased outwards.  You may also find the brakes are actually doing their job and the wheels are being held by them.  These are the two normal reasons I find my wheels don't want to turn freely.

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Looks like a neat job, @andreas!

@A. Bastow and @Sithlord75 have covered the usual reasons for stiff wheels.  It's important to check that you haven't pushed the bearings in when you fitted the axleboxes.  I always fit the solebar overlays and axleboxes with the underframe 'in the flat' on a firm surface to avoid this, only then bending them down.  Having the W-hangers a wee bit tight is better than having them wide as you can  ease them out, whereas you have to take the wheels back out to squeeze them together slightly if the axles are loose.  Check that you can see 'daylight' between the brake blocks and the flanges.  In my experience Association underframes can be made very free running.  In fact some of mine will run away if the piece of track they are sitting on is not dead level!

 

Jim

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Further to the comments from others on the wagon,  I wonder if the bearings are not quite into the frames far enough - they need to sit properly in the half-etched recess in the frame material.  

 

For wagons with the fold-up axleboxes, I usually fit the bearings, and the spring overlay.  Then file the outer face of the bearing so it is flush with the outermost spring overlay.   Then add the axlebox to the flat face of bearing/spring assembly.   
Its also a situation where some may favour changing solder temperature - do the initial bearings and springs with higher temp, then use a lower temperature for the axle box.  

 

To clean up the etch after assembly, give it a scrub with an old toothbrush and some cream cleaner (sold for cleaning sinks/cookers/etc.).   Then thoroughly wash in water.   

 

- Nigel

 

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