Any Question Answered

[Caley Jim]

It's certainly the easiest way I've found. You can change cv's and then check the results without having to faff about with switching from a programming track.  Also the screens give you a better idea of what you're doing. The JMRI software also has the advantage of saving all the settings for each loco, so if you happen to have to change the decoder for any reason, they are all there just to reload in one go. 

 

Jim 

[nick_bastable]

JMRI and what ever interface you've got  I use a early Sprog or a MERG base unit both work the same at a similar voltage

 

Nick B

[Donw]

A sprog will be fine. However if you have a USB connection JMRI will do it for you.

I have two systems

A MERG system with a CANUSB4 which connects the PC to the CAN bus and JMRI Decoder Pro will make it very easy to change CVs. I could do it with the handheld throttle but Decoder pro is simpler.

 

The other system is DCC++Ex.  A MEGA and  a motor shield less than £20. THe software is a free download. Plug the PC  the into the USB port on the MEGA . With JMRI on the PC you have a working DCC system and can use decoder pro for changing CVs

 

Don

[justin1985]

Has anyone built the Gramodels "2mm/N" kit for a Rectank wagon? I don't recall having seen one in the flesh, so I'm curious how it looks, and how it scales for 2mm?

 

Or has there ever been another kit for the Rectank? The long skinny structure looks like it might really be better suited to etching than resin or 3D printing, perhaps?

 

I'd love to depict this little scene of the Romney Hythe and Dymchurch's "Green Goddess" being dispatched from Paxman's at Hythe (Colchester). I think a T scale (1:450) A1 would be just about right! 

 

 

On a similar note, can anyone comment on the Gramodels "Whippet" tank (late WW1) ? I'm wondering if it would make a good load for the new Farish WD Parrot wagons (rather than using the identically sheeted Mk1 tanks supplied with some other Farish models - which @CF MRC refers to as dog turds ...)

[Ian Morgan]

I've not made a Rectank, but I did get an LSWR Lowmac from Gramodels. I was not sure sure how it would look when it was in the raw resin, but it painted up very nicely:

 

 

Indeed, it compares well with the NGS RR Lowmac

 

 

I also have some Gramodels LSWR open wagon bodies

 

 

and an army lorry

 

 

 

 

I did build some plastic Warflats and Warwells, and loaded them with PD Models pewter vehicles, but they ended up horribly heavy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 22, 2023 by Ian Morgan
re-loaded images

[Royal42]

Foamboard (?) - what is it, where to get it and how much (generally) do I need?

Hi all,  I am about half way through reading the Track book and have bought a fair few turnout jigs and templates now; recommendations are to use foamboard to hold the track in place whilst assembly.   I don't know anything about this material and therefore could do with some advice on it.  To start off, where do fellow modellers get theirs?  Secondly, do I only need one piece, i.e. does it last a long time with pins sticking in to it?

 

cheers,
Mike

[Donw]

I have bought some from Hobbycraft (or some name like that) some sort of arts/crafts supermarket. Best supply was from a fellow club member having seen me doing a demo using it for buildings he gave me a pile of offcuts from work It is two sheets of thin card with a layer of foam between. Light and flat.

 

Don

[Gareth Collier]

When needed I've bought it from Hobbycraft https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/decor-and-frames/frame-mounting/foam-board

[2mm Andy]

If you've got a branch of "The Range" near you, they also sell it. It comes in sizes from A4 up to A1 - if you get the bigger sheets, it is probably best to chop it up to fit the turnout you're working on (plus a bit of space around it). You can build an awful lot of 2FS turnouts using an A1 sheet.

 

Andy

[Royal42]

Thank you all, I have placed an order with Hobbycraft.

 

cheers,
Mike

[oily]

I realise there's a thread on soldering irons, that I have read but am no closer to an answer.

I have used a Weller PU-1D 24v 48w soldering station with various TC tips for the last 30 + years making locos from 2mm to Gauge 1 plus doing some small electronic jobs, but I can no longer get spare parts for it. What would folk advise, ideally from experience, as a comparable or maybe up to date improved replacement. Looking at what's on offer on line it is very hard to decide.

Many thanks

Oli

[Donw]

28 minutes ago, oily said:

I realise there's a thread on soldering irons, that I have read but am no closer to an answer.

I have used a Weller PU-1D 24v 48w soldering station with various TC tips for the last 30 + years making locos from 2mm to Gauge 1 plus doing some small electronic jobs, but I can no longer get spare parts for it. What would folk advise, ideally from experience, as a comparable or maybe up to date improved replacement. Looking at what's on offer on line it is very hard to decide.

Many thanks

Oli

 

Hakko FX-888D  be careful on Ebay some are clones I bought mine from Wentworth as the last thing I wanted was a soldering station with dodgey electrics  https://www.hakko.co.uk/product/fx-888d-digital-soldering-station-blue-yellow/

 

Don

[Ian Morgan]

I love my Hakko. I also purchased some extra genuine Hakko bits (larger and smaller than standard one supplied with iron) from Japan. Not cheap, but worth it. And so easy to change bits too.

 

 

[Donw]

2 hours ago, Ian Morgan said:

I love my Hakko. I also purchased some extra genuine Hakko bits (larger and smaller than standard one supplied with iron) from Japan. Not cheap, but worth it. And so easy to change bits too.

 

 

 

I ordered some extra bits at the time of purchase. Whatever the soldering iron the bit sould suit the job in hand.

 

Don

[oily]

Thanks to evereyone who responded, the Hakko looks like the answer but I've just been given a hardly used ERSA Digital 2000 with a collection of ten bits that looks like it'll see me out now. Having tried it, it seems quite impressive.

[Caley Jim]

I've had an ERSA RDS80 for over ten years or so now and find it first class.  The only feature that can be slightly annoying is that it switches off after a few minutes if not being used.  On the other hand that can be useful if you forget to switch it off after a session!  

 

Jim

[Royal42]

Can anyone please help with advice on the turnout kits supplied by 2mm Assoc?   I have bought the set and downloaded the instructions; however, I cannot get the stop strip (the straight piece that comes with the base unit) to match the holes once the template has been attached.

 

Here is a view of the B7 template, base and stop strip laid out on the instructions.  As can be seen, the holes for the stop strip do not align with holes in the base once the template has been attached.

 

 

I can't move the template any further to the left as there are no more holes for the screw.  Any ideas where I am going wrong with this?

 

cheers,

Mike

[MrSimon]

Hi Mike,

 

I seem to remember only using the straight bit for the straight stock rail then I took it off and used the shaped template for the rest of the point and I used the button gauges to place the straight line of the vee.  
 

Alternatively, have you tried it all ways up/ways round?  My jig was second hand so I’m not sure if the previous owner added extra holes.

 

Good luck!

Simon

[Royal42]

I could drill extra holes to fit; however, if I buy something new then I expect it to fit.

 

Mike

[2mm Andy]

1 hour ago, Royal42 said:

I could drill extra holes to fit; however, if I buy something new then I expect it to fit.

 

Mike

The straight guide I have with my jig (purchased a number of years ago) has five holes drilled at one end, and four closely-spaced holes at the other. The latter seem to fit the baseplate as per the instructions. Your photo only shows one end of the guide - are there any holes in the other end? If not, it maybe that you have one that escaped before manufacture was completed.

 

(BTW, the stop strip is a different part of the jig that fits up against the edge of the baseplate to align the ends of the pcb strips).

 

Andy

Edited June 14, 2021 by 2mm Andy

[Nigelcliffe]

9 hours ago, Royal42 said:

I could drill extra holes to fit; however, if I buy something new then I expect it to fit.

 

Mike

 

Have you asked the 2mm shop about it ?   

 

- Nigel

 

[Nig H]

Hello Adam,

 

The instructions say, 'To prepare the base for use a stop strip which is supplied in the pack has to be attached to the side closest to the row of tapped holes. This is to form an end stop for the sleepers along the straight side of plain turnouts. It can be glued on with Araldite taking great care not to allow the glue to squeeze out into the ends of the slots. Alternatively it can be screwed on by drilling and tapping three or four holes along the edge of the block. When we come to make other types of pointwork it may be useful to be able to temporally remove the strip again. The instructions supplied clearly illustrate the assembly.' So the strip needs to be attached along the edge of the base plate, at right angles to it.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Nigel Hunt

[Royal42]

I think I understand what has happened.  There were only two items in the packet, the template and a long straight piece with holes drilled into it.  I had assumed that the long straight piece was also to act as a stop strip, hence trying to screw it to the end of the template.  I shall go back to 2mm shop and ask for a stop strip.

 

cheers,
Mike

[MrSimon]

Hi, sorry I zoomed into the picture and had another look.  I think the stop strips already screwed onto the jig - it’s hard to tell from the picture but it looks like there’s a sort of ridge that will stop the sleepers falling out, that should have screws holding it in and is the stop strip.   The other straight bit is for the straight rail.

 

Hope that helps?

Simon

[Royal42]

Hi Simon,

 

Yes, I did get my terminology all wrong, that's the problem with being a newbie to this.  I have had a response back from 2mm and they sent me a photo of what I should have and, indeed, I do have everything.  The problem hasn't gone away though and I now see what the issue is.  A correctly drilled straight strip is as Andy described: five equally space holes to the left with more tightly spaced holes to the right, whereas the straight strip I have has five equally spaced holes to the left and to the right and; therefore,  these do not align with the base plate when a template has been attached.  Anyway, now that I know what the issue is, I have asked for a replacement straight strip as I am keen to get some practice done with these little toys.

 

cheers,

Mike

Edited June 15, 2021 by Royal42