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1 hour ago, A. Bastow said:

Has anyone ever experimented with etched and layered wheels using the wheel tyres from association shop 3? 

I did try it recently for my CR 323 class 0-6-0ST which has 'T'-section spokes.  It wasn't easy to get the layers lined up accurately, but that could be improved by a different design of the etch.  My other problem was in not having a lathe to get the centres accurately turned to fit the rims on true.  As it turned out this was when Nigel was experimenting with the new 3D printed wheels, so he came over one day and we drew up the file for doing them that way.  I would say that that is a better route to pursue than layered etches, though perhaps a bit more expensive.

 

Jim

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Thanks Jim, Roger. 

 

I wondered if it was feasible and with no less than two of you having had a go I think I may entertain the idea in future. 

 

I do have another question. I have scratch built a tender 0-6-0 chassis and the motor in the tender pushes the drive chassis to one side or the other depending on whether I put it in forward or reverse. I can hold it all steady and the motor drives everything, wheels turn, the lot; admittedly with a bit of an occasional stutter. 

How do I stop this lashing to one side or the other? Please bear in mind that the only kit that I have built before was one of Nigel Hunt's replacement chassis- nice and compact tank engine. 

 

Could my motor be too powerful?

Currently have a 10mm coreless motor fitted - I think from Nigel Lawton. 


Is the link from tender to loco too loose? 

The link/drawbar is supplied by 12BA nuts with the threads pared away soldered to double sided PCB- threaded at either end through 10BA bolts. 


Is the gear train too heavy or does it have too much inherent friction?

I think I didn't leave enough running clearance when designing the etch for it, but I am also working at something like 70:1 gear reduction


Should I look at an alternative universal joint? 

Currently have the N Brass locos universal joint installed as the 3d printed ones from association shop 3 kept breaking on me. 

 

Cheers! 

 

Adam

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Hi Adam. Have you got the body on the loco chassis? If not I would suggest that it's the lack of the weight of that which is the cause. I have seen the same if I run the chassis without the body, well weighted, in place.

I arrange the drive shaft on my tender locos to be under the footplate as I don't like the idea of a drive shaft being visible in the open cabs of my locos. Just a personal thing. See some of my loco articles in the magazine. 

 

Jim 

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1 hour ago, Caley Jim said:

Hi Adam. Have you got the body on the loco chassis? If not I would suggest that it's the lack of the weight of that which is the cause. I have seen the same if I run the chassis without the body, well weighted, in place.

I arrange the drive shaft on my tender locos to be under the footplate as I don't like the idea of a drive shaft being visible in the open cabs of my locos. Just a personal thing. See some of my loco articles in the magazine. 

 

Jim 

 

Hi Jim,

 

I will look at adding weight to the chassis then with the body on. I might need to try and get some weight in between the chassis as well. 

 

Ta. 

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I find that all loco chassis, tank or tender, run much better when there is a bit of weight on them, rather than just the bare chassis. Not only does this overcome the torque generated by the motor (which is the problem you're experiencing), but also gives better current collection. I have a piece of lead sheet with a 12BA tapped hole in it which I can attach via the body fixing screw hole. Either that or using a bit of Blue-tac. 

 

Jim

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On 20/09/2021 at 20:14, Roger.s said:

I have done it twice!  I assembled them with a crankpin in place which aligned the spokes.  I needed to trim the centres slightly to fit the rims and I did this by hand with files. 

Here is are  photos of them. The 4 coupled are 7mm dia. and the 6 coupled 8mm dia.

I made a jig from a piece of Tufnol with a hole for the stub axle and a second the the crankpin. The axle rod is pushed up through the hole which needs to be a tight fit. The etched layers are tinned and then threaded onto the axle. The crank pin is used to align the spokes and the end of it fits into the other hole.  The inside of the rim is also tinned, I used Carrs green label flux, and the rim put round the spokes. The wheel can now be sweated up with pressure applied to the rim to  hold everything tight.#

 

Regards Roger

WIN_20210921_22_52_30_Pro (3).jpg

WIN_20210921_22_49_55_Pro.jpg

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10 hours ago, Roger.s said:

Here is are  photos of them. The 4 coupled are 7mm dia. and the 6 coupled 8mm dia.

I made a jig from a piece of Tufnol with a hole for the stub axle and a second the the crankpin. The axle rod is pushed up through the hole which needs to be a tight fit. The etched layers are tinned and then threaded onto the axle. The crank pin is used to align the spokes and the end of it fits into the other hole.  The inside of the rim is also tinned, I used Carrs green label flux, and the rim put round the spokes. The wheel can now be sweated up with pressure applied to the rim to  hold everything tight.#

 

Regards Roger

WIN_20210921_22_52_30_Pro (3).jpg

WIN_20210921_22_49_55_Pro.jpg

 

They look spot on Roger. If I saw those on a layout I probably wouldn't be able to tell them apart. I didn't consider that the balance weights could be incorporated into the design as well! 

 

I suppose if you're having an etch made then it can't hurt to throw a set of wheels into the design as well. 

 

Cheers,

 

Adam

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18 hours ago, Roger.s said:

Here is are  photos of them. The 4 coupled are 7mm dia. and the 6 coupled 8mm dia.

I made a jig from a piece of Tufnol with a hole for the stub axle and a second the the crankpin. The axle rod is pushed up through the hole which needs to be a tight fit. The etched layers are tinned and then threaded onto the axle. The crank pin is used to align the spokes and the end of it fits into the other hole.  The inside of the rim is also tinned, I used Carrs green label flux, and the rim put round the spokes. The wheel can now be sweated up with pressure applied to the rim to  hold everything tight.#

 

Regards Roger

 

Hello Roger,

 

The wheels looks very nice. A question if I may - when you etch the centres, do you include a representation of the wheel rim as part of the etch (to fit inside the turned steel tyre) or just etch a "spider" which is then soldered into the tyre at the end of each spoke?

 

regards,

 

Andy

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Hi Andy,

For the 0-4-0 I I etched a "spider". I had turned the rimes myself as the association rims were not the available. 

I did not make a recess  on the inside of the rim as my turning skills are not that good and I did not want the rim any thicker.

For the 0-6-0 I used the association rims which have a rebate on the inside of the rim.  I included enough rim on the etch to fill the rebate flush with the inside edge of the rim. 

My aim is to make the rim as thin as I can to balance the oversized flange.

The outermost layer has just the balance weights and boss and no spokes and sits inside the rim flush with the outer face.

I used 1mm rod for the axles for the 0-4-0 so the I could  make the boss smaller than  a 1.5mm axle would allow.

 

Regards Roger

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On 21/09/2021 at 13:02, Caley Jim said:

I find that all loco chassis, tank or tender, run much better when there is a bit of weight on them, rather than just the bare chassis. Not only does this overcome the torque generated by the motor (which is the problem you're experiencing), but also gives better current collection. I have a piece of lead sheet with a 12BA tapped hole in it which I can attach via the body fixing screw hole. Either that or using a bit of Blue-tac. 

 

Jim

 

Hi Jim, all,

 

I have managed to produce a working loco!  

 

Tender and loco chassis are wired together now, with weights and clean wheels and the pickup is good. The lashing to one side or the other was due mostly to the universal joint. I had to file away gently at the ball on either end of the removable shaft so they provided a loose "friction free" fit. 

 

I acquired some aluminium oxide from work and I lapped the gears as well. 

 

The whole thing now needs a good clean and then I can think about detailing the body, fixing couplers on and making a coal load to hide the top of the motor. 

 

Many thanks for the help! 

 

Adam 

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On 24/09/2021 at 05:16, A. Bastow said:

 

Hi Jim, all,

 

I have managed to produce a working loco!  

 

Tender and loco chassis are wired together now, with weights and clean wheels and the pickup is good. The lashing to one side or the other was due mostly to the universal joint. I had to file away gently at the ball on either end of the removable shaft so they provided a loose "friction free" fit. 

 

I acquired some aluminium oxide from work and I lapped the gears as well. 

 

The whole thing now needs a good clean and then I can think about detailing the body, fixing couplers on and making a coal load to hide the top of the motor. 

 

Many thanks for the help! 

 

Adam 

Pictures! Pictures! Pictures! Lets see your loco!

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On 28/09/2021 at 22:58, garethashenden said:

Pictures! Pictures! Pictures! Lets see your loco!

 

I can show you what it looked like on Sunday!

 

1231323649_LYRClass28(1).png.e3a925fb375af3bf30d357110d80146c.png

 

At the moment it's in bits again. I think all the little niggly bits need taking back to the etch design and reworking to make a successfully powered model. For the moment though it'll look good, finished off as a loco that can be shunted around. 

 

 

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I've purchased a 3D printed N gauge tanker model but is rather devoid of underframe details, so does anyone know if anyone does and where you can get N/2mm wagon vee hangers and handbrake handles - preferably etched metal? I checked the 2mmSA shop but couldn't see anything, but I might have been looking in the wrong place.

 

TIA.

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24 minutes ago, grahame said:

I've purchased a 3D printed N gauge tanker model but is rather devoid of underframe details, so does anyone know if anyone does and where you can get N/2mm wagon vee hangers and handbrake handles - preferably etched metal? I checked the 2mmSA shop but couldn't see anything, but I might have been looking in the wrong place.

 

TIA.

Shop 2 would be the place to look. Lots of wagon chassis there. 

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53 minutes ago, grahame said:

I've purchased a 3D printed N gauge tanker model but is rather devoid of underframe details, so does anyone know if anyone does and where you can get N/2mm wagon vee hangers and handbrake handles - preferably etched metal? I checked the 2mmSA shop but couldn't see anything, but I might have been looking in the wrong place.

 

TIA.

 

Hi Grahame,

 

I have a tin with all sorts of leftover bits of wagon etches. If you can post a picture of the wagon you are modlling with the sort of bits you want I can probably find something suitable.

 

Jerry

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14 minutes ago, queensquare said:

 

Hi Grahame,

 

I have a tin with all sorts of leftover bits of wagon etches. If you can post a picture of the wagon you are modlling with the sort of bits you want I can probably find something suitable.

 

Jerry

 

A very nice offer - thanks. Hoping that posting one of Pauls pics here in reply is okay (and it is now defaced with the yellow oval I've added as well as the 'c' watermark so should be no commercial use to anyone) shows what I'm after. Presumably the same both sides. And I'd probably have to mount the lever and vee hanger further left to avoid interference with the bogie swing.

 

Publication1red.jpg.2e1a6d14a82aa88d7069b0c4b4b1ab7f.jpg

 

G

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42 minutes ago, grahame said:

 

A very nice offer - thanks. Hoping that posting one of Pauls pics here in reply is okay (and it is now defaced with the yellow oval I've added as well as the 'c' watermark so should be no commercial use to anyone) shows what I'm after. Presumably the same both sides. And I'd probably have to mount the lever and vee hanger further left to avoid interference with the bogie swing.

 

Publication1red.jpg.2e1a6d14a82aa88d7069b0c4b4b1ab7f.jpg

 

G

Pm sent

 

Jerry

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On 01/09/2021 at 07:59, Lacathedrale said:

Diamond, thank you - it seesms since @bcnPete bought them, they've been moribund in N gauge - but I'll ask now and report any findings to the thread! Thanks!

 

On 12/09/2021 at 11:58, bcnPete said:

 

Thanks Chris - only just noticed this!

 

 

Hi there - sorry, only just seen this - yes the products were excellent but that was 8 years ago - hopefully they are still trading in 2mm :good: 

 

 

Announcement today about 2mm signals https://www.facebook.com/AbsoluteAspects/posts/1993466444142275

 

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Seeing as the servers for RMweb posted this twice and seeing as Facebook's server seems to be rather unstable at the moment I'll use this post to add to the previous one.

The Facebook post said that 2mm signals would be available from the 1st December this year. 

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5 hours ago, Kris said:

Seeing as the servers for RMweb posted this twice and seeing as Facebook's server seems to be rather unstable at the moment I'll use this post to add to the previous one.

The Facebook post said that 2mm signals would be available from the 1st December this year. 

The demand for 2mm signals has brought Facebook down worldwide! Nice one.

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  • 4 weeks later...

They look fantastic, and I'm 99% sure I'll go that way - but propriety does mandate that I at least make a cursory enquiry about semaphores. How hard are they to build (I'm assuming from kits) and to articulate?

 

I'm building a small layout, with ust two platform starters (and subsiduary shunt arms) and four ground signals. There's an obvious extension in future to model the remainder of the station throat which would include a double sided bracket (P1/2 home signals on one way, and a slotted up starter on the other).  Neither of these types seem particularly straight forward, but I have no frame of reference to know if they're going to be more or less complex than say, a wagon chassis - does anyone have any thoughts?

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If you can solder together a wagon kit, then you should, with care, be able to assemble some MSE parts into a semaphore signal. The difficulty comes from not being a complete kit for a particular signal, so you need a photo of what you want, and you need to choose which components will be required, and how they should fit together. MSE parts are brass, rather than nickel silver, so are softer and more easily bent and deformed.

 

Start off simple, with a single arm on a single post. Leave the bracket signals for later on.

 

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