justin1985 Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 I know in larger scales you can get etches of wagon "strapping" is such a thing avaliable in 2mm? +1 for this - etched wagon strapping would be a massive help for scratch building as well, but I've never seen it as stand-alone in 2mm\N. Thin Evergreen plastic strip\microstrip and Archers rivet transfers can do the job for simple strapping, but not really practical for complex corner plates etc. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 Jim Watt has done some strapping etches in his Buchanan Kits range to convert Association plastic 1887 RCH mineral kits to the Scottish "cupboard door" variants. Probably too specific for your needs, but it shows what's possible. Graham 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Bit of a curveball - does anyone in the southern hemisphere turn wheels down? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 What kind of piercing blades should be used for cutting 0.2 - 0.7 mm brass and P/B sheets? I had about 5 dozens of mixed types, bought long time ago and although many of them were ok, the last two dozens broke very quickly... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 What kind of piercing blades should be used for cutting 0.2 - 0.7 mm brass and P/B sheets? I had about 5 dozens of mixed types, bought long time ago and although many of them were ok, the last two dozens broke very quickly... I've found the answers here and here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 What kind of piercing blades should be used for cutting 0.2 - 0.7 mm brass and P/B sheets? I had about 5 dozens of mixed types, bought long time ago and although many of them were ok, the last two dozens broke very quickly... 0.2mm brass can be cut with a craft knife. Making several light cuts then flexing and breaking the metal when almost cut through. When sawing slightly thicker metal, make the cut at a shallow angle to increase the number of teeth on contact with the metal. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted May 5, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 5, 2017 What kind of piercing blades should be used for cutting 0.2 - 0.7 mm brass and P/B sheets? I had about 5 dozens of mixed types, bought long time ago and although many of them were ok, the last two dozens broke very quickly... Try using some beeswax as a lubrication. Jewellery tool suppliers sell blocks of wax which you simply rub on the saw blade. It's also a good lubricant for thread cutting. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted May 5, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 5, 2017 Thanks Mark, I have some beeswax in the cupboard for the kitchen work surfaces, never thought to use it as lubrication for cutting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Is this brake gear ok for a wagon dated before 1900? One brake shoe only. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 (edited) Is this brake gear ok for a wagon dated before 1900? One brake shoe only. In simple terms, yes, but the brake lever guide should project at 90° to the solebar. To achieve this the two bends in the lever beside the guide should also be 90°. Jim Edited to add that the other two bends will need to be slightly increased too. This will push the part of the lever which is parallel to the solebar a wee bit further out. Edited May 13, 2017 by Caley Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 (edited) Thanks, Jim. Here is v2.0 And a side view: I am going to remove the "V" hangers but what shall I do with the fixing point (I am not sure this is the right name) located on the sole bar between the brake shoe and the "V" hanger? Is a good idea to blacken or spray with black primer the chassis at this stage or, better, solder the DG couplings first? What's the best practice: to solder or glue the couplings? Edited May 13, 2017 by Valentin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Here is v2.0 that's the idea! I am going to remove the "V" hangers but what shall I do with the fixing point (I am not sure this is the right name) located on the sole bar between the brake shoe and the "V" hanger? That's the mounting point for a brake shoe directly operated by the lever, instead of by a push rod as in the version you have built., so cut it off too. It's much easier to remove the unwanted mountings and V-hangers as a first step in the build while the underframe is still in the flat. Is a good idea to blacken or spray with black primer the chassis at this stage or, better, solder the DG couplings first? What's the best practice: to solder or glue the couplings? I always spray the completed wagon, with the body attached and wheels removed, with satin black acrylic from a rattle can as an undercoat. I don't use DG's so can't comment on their fitting, but fitting the AJ couplings with cyano glue is the last thing I do after all painting etc has been completed. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Found this photo of a couple of 1887 RCH wagons modelled with the direct activated brakes to show the difference from the push rod activated. The nearer on has been modified to have dumb buffers. Jim 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Jim, I know you're using the AJ coupling system so the hook and plate assembly is not in the way. Is this true for the DG, and BB coupling systems? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Hi Valentin. I think you need to leave the hook of for them, but others would be better to advise you. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted May 14, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 14, 2017 With DG couplings, if you have the loop at one end of the wagon and the 'fall plate' at the other, you can usually leave the dummy hook in place on the loop end, but it gets in the way of the 'fall plate', so I leave it off that end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Hello, I question related to the wagon wheels: The 2-326, 2-327, and many other underframe etched kits, mostly list the following type of suitable wheels: The 2mm SA Yearbook mentions only the 2-010 / 6mm 8-spoke wagon wheels (12.25mm axle) The 2mm SA website mentions only the 2-015 / 6mm open spoke wagon wheels (12.25mm axle) I know the difference between the two types of wheels but is there any rule (depending on when the wagon was built, or by which company) to apply for the PO wagons? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Hello, I question related to the wagon wheels: The 2-326, 2-327, and many other underframe etched kits, mostly list the following type of suitable wheels: The 2mm SA Yearbook mentions only the 2-010 / 6mm 8-spoke wagon wheels (12.25mm axle) The 2mm SA website mentions only the 2-015 / 6mm open spoke wagon wheels (12.25mm axle) I know the difference between the two types of wheels but is there any rule (depending on when the wagon was built, or by which company) to apply for the PO wagons? Generally the open spoke were earlier. But looking at photos is probably the best way, especially for PO wagons. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Generally the open spoke were earlier. But looking at photos is probably the best way, especially for PO wagons. And it's not unusual to see wagons with one set of each! Probably as a result of undergoing repairs when one set of the open spoked needed replacing. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Not exactly a modelling question but.. having just found this chassis building vid on youtube and a conversation at weekend NEAG35 I wondered if there was any likely hood of another chassis building workshop, maybe in the North? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted May 26, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 26, 2017 From my experience with the 4F chassis build and Easytrac point build sessions, if someone steps up to organise such an event, there will be plenty of attendees and helpers that will turn up (cue misquote from 'Field of Dreams'). It just takes someone to find a suitable venue, contact some suitable 'experts', choose a suitable chassis and arrange supplies of the required ingredients, advertise it and set a date. Would you get thrown out of the Guild of Master Procrastinators if you stepped up for it? I would suggest one of the latest Chris Higgs chassis for an RTR body might be a popular, and achievable, subject this time round. I'll bring the video camera (when I arrived at the 4F chassis event, I found I had left the camera at home, and had to make do with the laptop webcam and my I-Pad) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted May 26, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 26, 2017 From my experience with the 4F chassis build and Easytrac point build sessions, if someone steps up to organise such an event, there will be plenty of attendees and helpers that will turn up (cue misquote from 'Field of Dreams'). It just takes someone to find a suitable venue, contact some suitable 'experts', choose a suitable chassis and arrange supplies of the required ingredients, advertise it and set a date. Would you get thrown out of the Guild of Master Procrastinators if you stepped up for it? I would suggest one of the latest Chris Higgs chassis for an RTR body might be a popular, and achievable, subject this time round. I'll bring the video camera (when I arrived at the 4F chassis event, I found I had left the camera at home, and had to make do with the laptop webcam and my I-Pad) Nigel Hunt, myself and Julia were the tutors on the last one. Nigel was good enough to come way down south for that so it seems only fair that, if required, I would be happy to go 'up north' and volunteer my services. Jerry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 From my experience with the 4F chassis build and Easytrac point build sessions, if someone steps up to organise such an event, there will be plenty of attendees and helpers that will turn up (cue misquote from 'Field of Dreams'). It just takes someone to find a suitable venue, contact some suitable 'experts', choose a suitable chassis and arrange supplies of the required ingredients, advertise it and set a date. Would you get thrown out of the Guild of Master Procrastinators if you stepped up for it? I would suggest one of the latest Chris Higgs chassis for an RTR body might be a popular, and achievable, subject this time round. I'll bring the video camera (when I arrived at the 4F chassis event, I found I had left the camera at home, and had to make do with the laptop webcam and my I-Pad) There was talk of me doing one on my chassis after the success of the Nigel Hunt et al event. That would have been at the MRC. However the driving force, Paul Martin, became ill and then unfortunately passed away. It takes more organising than you might think. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Not exactly a modelling question but.. having just found this chassis building vid on youtube and a conversation at weekend NEAG35 I wondered if there was any likely hood of another chassis building workshop, maybe in the North? Tom, I'll put some feelers out to see if something can be set up. This is probably a good opportunity to mention that the Association committee is looking into holding a 'skills day' next year, probably in the Northern half of England (to maintain balance with other events pencilled in for next year), but venue and date are all to be confirmed at present. Subjects to be covered will depend on availability of willing tutors and demonstrators, but I'd hope that we could cover most of the basics. Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Many thanks for the reply Andy, time enough to save for the bits I need then.. and I understand about getting willing helpers. Looking forward to seeing what transpires but might have to get the stage coach down the Great North Road if needs be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now