Any Question Answered

[PeteT]

Thanks Don - I'll see if I can make it 8^) I see there are a number of other activities and meet ups so should be able to make a few

Hi.

I'm also a 2mm modeller and missing the Area group of which I was a member before moving to the SW, Wellington near the Somerset/Devon border.

Can anyone tell me where I'll find details of SWAG and it's activities.

Pete T

[queensquare]

Hi.

I'm also a 2mm modeller and missing the Area group of which I was a member before moving to the SW, Wellington near the Somerset/Devon border.

Can anyone tell me where I'll find details of SWAG and it's activities.

Pete T

Hi Pete,

 

SWAG is an RMWeb group and encompasses all scales. There is an annual get together in Staplegrove village hall, Taunton, April 29th this year, started by Captain K and now organised by Stu. It's free to all RMWeb members and is a splendid day out. I usually provide some 2FS presence, either a layout or, as this year, a demo with test track. Would be great if you or any other 2mm member could join us and do bring along whatever you have built or are working on. John Greenwood often comes up for the day and Phil Coplestone is also a regular.

There isn't a SW area group of the 2mm Association, mainly because the few active members in the area are so spread out. With yourself, Jim A and one or two others now in the SW there may we'll be scope for a group, even if we only meet up informally two or three times a year. Perhaps we could meet up at the RMWeb members day and discuss the possibility?

 

Jerry

[PeteT]

Hi Pete,

 

SWAG is an RMWeb group and encompasses all scales. There is an annual get together in Staplegrove village hall, Taunton, April 29th this year, started by Captain K and now organised by Stu. It's free to all RMWeb members and is a splendid day out. I usually provide some 2FS presence, either a layout or, as this year, a demo with test track. Would be great if you or any other 2mm member could join us and do bring along whatever you have built or are working on. John Greenwood often comes up for the day and Phil Coplestone is also a regular.

There isn't a SW area group of the 2mm Association, mainly because the few active members in the area are so spread out. With yourself, Jim A and one or two others now in the SW there may we'll be scope for a group, even if we only meet up informally two or three times a year. Perhaps we could meet up at the RMWeb members day and discuss the possibility?

 

Jerry

Hi Jerry

Thanks for the info. I will definately make it along to Staplegrove.  If I'm not mistaken , our esteemed ex chief shopkeeper, Steve Stubbs, lives just accross the road from the venue.

I have tried to talk Jim A into forming a group, but now with his 2mm Association duties, he probably wouldn't have the time. I ran the K & E Group for a number of years, but think I'm getting a bit old to take on a new group.

Looking forward to meeting up in April.

Regards Pete

[queensquare]

Hi Jerry

Thanks for the info. I will definately make it along to Staplegrove.  If I'm not mistaken , our esteemed ex chief shopkeeper, Steve Stubbs, lives just accross the road from the venue.

I have tried to talk Jim A into forming a group, but now with his 2mm Association duties, he probably wouldn't have the time. I ran the K & E Group for a number of years, but think I'm getting a bit old to take on a new group.

Looking forward to meeting up in April.

Regards Pete

Hi Pete,

I don't think anyone needs to run a group, we don't need anything that formal - just arrange to meet up every few months. We can do that via emails or pms on here. I don't really do organised or formal!,

 

Jerry

[2mm Andy]

I would recommend a tank engine, as it is indeed the case we do not have (at least not yet) components for the drive shaft arrangement between loco and tender and this you have to fabricate yourself.

 

Also the tender engine chassis are either for a body no longer available (the Peco 2251) or for a body that is a kit (the Raithby 4F also stocked by the Shop).

 

Printing off the diagrams is a good idea and you can even print them out bigger if that helps in understanding them 

 

EDIT you could just start off with bulding the chassis of the J72. Bob designed it for a generation of motors which are now generally superseded by smaller can or coreless types, however, it is not that diificult to adapt it.

 

Chris

 

Another vote for a tank engine. The Jinty is probably the most straightforward as there is plenty of room for the motor in the body, and the old style Farish bodies are fairly cheap. Both the Masterclass Models etch (3-650) and the Fence Houses Jinty chassis would be good places to start, although the Fence Houses one really needs the 3-270 chassis assembly jig (the Masterclass one has a jig included on the etch).

 

Components for loco-tender drive shafts were designed and tested early last year and details were sent to the Sales Officer for ordering, but they haven't made it into shop 3 yet.

 

Andy

[nick_bastable]

Terrier works very nicely as does the M7    however the Jinty and  the latest farish GWR pannier  may be  best via the horn-block method and  it will be cheaper  (no motor or chassis to buy)

 

Nick

[Donw]

Terrier works very nicely as does the M7    however the Jinty and  the latest farish GWR pannier  may be  best via the horn-block method and  it will be cheaper  (no motor or chassis to buy)

 

Nick

 

Whilst the latest Pannier would be easier the earlier one where you have to fit the gears and a motor would be a useful learning step for someone intent on scratchbuilding their own. I expect the Terrier and M7 are similar but I have yet to try one of them

 

Don 

[Donw]

Hi Jerry

Thanks for the info. I will definately make it along to Staplegrove.  If I'm not mistaken , our esteemed ex chief shopkeeper, Steve Stubbs, lives just accross the road from the venue.

I have tried to talk Jim A into forming a group, but now with his 2mm Association duties, he probably wouldn't have the time. I ran the K & E Group for a number of years, but think I'm getting a bit old to take on a new group.

Looking forward to meeting up in April.

Regards Pete

 

I will be at Staplegrove but with my other hat on bringing an 0 gauge layout so I will be easy to spot. Do all introduce yourselves. 

Don

[Chris Higgs]

Terrier works very nicely as does the M7    however the Jinty and  the latest farish GWR pannier  may be  best via the horn-block method and  it will be cheaper  (no motor or chassis to buy)

 

Nick

 

The Jinty and Pannier  by hornblocks will be easier but not necessarily cheaper, as the earlier bodies for both can easily be had for a tenner on ebay or from BRLines, no need to purchase the old Farish chassis. The Pannier isnt the same one either. You wont learn a lot from the hornblock conversions excpet how to quarter driving wheels.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GWR-loco-body-by-Graham-farish-N-Gauge-2/202236037578?hash=item2f163509ca:g:1jAAAOSw9V1aja~J

[Lacathedrale]

What's the product code for the older Jinty please, or how can I identify it? Bid on a 372-204, since 2FSA Shop3's conversion kit for the "modern" kit 3-700 refers to it being compatible with product numbers 372-210, 372-211 & 372-212

 

I think it does make sense even if I end up with some wildly divergent layout plan after all, to need to build a whole chassis - otherwise what's the point? I've got the loco chassis jig from the association already, and should be able to borrow the wheel quartering jig from a friend.

Edited February 28, 2018 by Lacathedrale

[Chris Higgs]

What's the product code for the older Jinty please, or how can I identify it? Bid on a 372-204, since 2FSA Shop3's conversion kit for the "modern" kit 3-700 refers to it being compatible with product numbers 372-210, 372-211 & 372-212

 

I think it does make sense even if I end up with some wildly divergent layout plan after all, to need to build a whole chassis - otherwise what's the point? I've got the loco chassis jig from the association already, and should be able to borrow the wheel quartering jig from a friend.

 

I think that is an appropriate one. It is the previous generation of Jinty, and was to be honest a pretty good model. 372-201 seems to be another serial numbr.

 

Chris

[2mmMark]

What's the product code for the older Jinty please, or how can I identify it? Bid on a 372-204, since 2FSA Shop3's conversion kit for the "modern" kit 3-700 refers to it being compatible with product numbers 372-210, 372-211 & 372-212

 

I think it does make sense even if I end up with some wildly divergent layout plan after all, to need to build a whole chassis - otherwise what's the point? I've got the loco chassis jig from the association already, and should be able to borrow the wheel quartering jig from a friend.

 

The quartering jig makes the job easy but it's not essential. I think it's a good plan to get to grips with building a chassis using the etched kits. Everything will be in the right place and it's a gentle lead-in to full scratchbuilding.

 

Mark

[Lacathedrale]

I think that is an appropriate one. It is the previous generation of Jinty, and was to be honest a pretty good model. 372-201 seems to be another serial numbr.

 

Chris

 

Annoyingly a new body is significantly cheaper than an older loco; do you know how much surgery would be required for the new shell or old chassis to fit? I can't imagine it would be much?

[queensquare]

Annoyingly a new body is significantly cheaper than an older loco; do you know how much surgery would be required for the new shell or old chassis to fit? I can't imagine it would be much?

As Chris said, the basic shape of the old Farish jinty is pretty good. My original one, No 19, uses one of these with a Bob Jones chassis. From memory I replaced the boiler fittings with some N brass ones and smaller front splashers to get rid of that 1970s Ford Capri look. I also carved off and replaced the handrails - all of which is a lot more work than converting the latest Jinty where other than dropping in the wheels all that really needs doing is replacing the rather anemic chimney. That said, building an etched chassis and a bit of detailing and carving of an older RTR model is very satisfying and a good modelling exercise.

I will take a picture of No19 later when I dig my way down the workshop.

 

Jerry

[Lacathedrale]

Thanks Jerry, I'm happy to hear it's not alot of work to upgrade the old body, but I'm feeling pretty silly paying at least twice the price for the old body than the new one!

 

Either way the chassis is required, and it would likely behoove me to complete that before getting too caught up in minutiae. 

[2mm Andy]

Thanks Jerry, I'm happy to hear it's not alot of work to upgrade the old body, but I'm feeling pretty silly paying at least twice the price for the old body than the new one!

 

Either way the chassis is required, and it would likely behoove me to complete that before getting too caught up in minutiae. 

 

When you say old and new bodies, which ones do you mean exactly? I'm not aware that the new-style bodies are available as spares. The older ones should be obtainable from the likes of BR Lines.

 

Andy

[queensquare]

Here is No 19. She must be twenty years old now and is starting to show her age - not helped by the rather heavy pre-airbrush paint job. The detailing isn't anything like as crisp as the latest Junty but she runs beautifully with the Fencehouses chassis and Faulhaueber 1016. The lettering was white letraset with the little tails hand painted then the lot coloured in!

When some descent transfers become available I will repaint her, along with one or two other older members of the stud.

 

Jerry

Edited March 2, 2018 by queensquare

[Chris Higgs]

Annoyingly a new body is significantly cheaper than an older loco; do you know how much surgery would be required for the new shell or old chassis to fit? I can't imagine it would be much?

 

You can buy a new body on its own? Please tell me where. Pretty sure the chassis would fit without much problem, but not having a new body, I cannot be sure.

 

Chris

[queensquare]

You can buy a new body on its own? Please tell me where. Pretty sure the chassis would fit without much problem, but not having a new body, I cannot be sure.

 

Chris

Fitting an etched chassis under one of the new bodies would involve a fair bit of work as the lower half of the boiler , everything below handrail level, is attached to the bottom of the motor and forms part of the chassis.

 

Jerry

[Chris Higgs]

Fitting an etched chassis under one of the new bodies would involve a fair bit of work as the lower half of the boiler , everything below handrail level, is attached to the bottom of the motor and forms part of the chassis.

 

Jerry

 

And what about the tanks? It would not be that difficult to 3D-print a half boiler. However, not sure if anyone would want to do it.

 

Chris

[queensquare]

And what about the tanks? It would not be that difficult to 3D-print a half boiler. However, not sure if anyone would want to do it.

 

Chris

Firebox, tanks, smokebox and top half of the boiler are all attached to the footplate. It's only the lower half of the boiler which would need replacing - either 3D print or my preference would be suitable sized bit of brass tube. But, as you say would anyone want to. The conversion of the new one is so simple as is and the results, both in terms of looks and performance are excellent.

 

Jerry

[Lacathedrale]

Ah, Bob R. did imply that he was sourcing the new bodies, but maybe that was my misunderstanding. Either way, I'll need to get the chassis running one way or another before anything else is achieved so that's #1 on my locomotive building plate. Thank you all for the clarification around specifically what would need to be replaced if I used the new body.

 

On a slight tangent-  should be fine with a push-pull lever into a slide-switch (3-4mm throw) into an omega loop and into the tie bar of my PCB-based turnout for some basic actuation? 

[Caley Jim]

On a slight tangent-  should be fine with a push-pull lever into a slide-switch (3-4mm throw) into an omega loop and into the tie bar of my PCB-based turnout for some basic actuation? 

On Sauchenford we just used the slide switch with a hole drilled transversely through the top to take the operating wire.  On a piece of test rack i have I used a toggle switch with the operating wire in a loop around the toggle.  You only need just over 1mm throw at the turnout.

 

Jim

[Chris Higgs]

Ah, Bob R. did imply that he was sourcing the new bodies, but maybe that was my misunderstanding. Either way, I'll need to get the chassis running one way or another before anything else is achieved so that's #1 on my locomotive building plate. Thank you all for the clarification around specifically what would need to be replaced if I used the new body.

 

On a slight tangent-  should be fine with a push-pull lever into a slide-switch (3-4mm throw) into an omega loop and into the tie bar of my PCB-based turnout for some basic actuation? 

 

It might be, as BRLines do get hold of latest bodies on an irregular basis if there are surplus.

 

Chris

[Phil Copleston]

Here is No 19. She must be twenty years old now and is starting to show her age - not helped by the rather heavy pre-airbrush paint job... When some descent transfers become available I will repaint her, along with one or two other older members of the stud.

 

Whatever your reservations about her, she still looks pretty spiffing to me, ol' bean! And I do like your 'home made' technique for the lettering. A very pretty blue engine that still does...