Any Question Answered

[Chris Higgs]

 

In respect to the outside frames on the 08 I made a replacement footplate from thin brass shim sheet ( K&S sell very useful packs of it with a range of differing sizes), and then used point timbering strips glued to it with the OF's then soldered to them.

 

I did actually etch some footplates like this, with slots in to fit the point timbering. Not sure where they are though, as I ended up going down the 3D-printed route.

 

Chris

[justin1985]

Is this wheel faulty?

 

I decided to have another look at the Jinty that has been sat in a drawer since one of the crank pins snapped during a ham fisted attempt to finesse the quartering.

 

After I wrestled the remains of the old crank pin out (I'd soldered it in) I noticed it didn't seem quite central on its boss. Once I cleaned it up, it definitely seems offset, so the pin isn't central on the boss when I put a replacement pin in.

 

 

Is this actually a problem? Thinking about it, this probably explains why quartering by eye was problematic. But if I use the quartering jig, it should still be possible to get it aligned correctly?

 

Or should I just get a replacement?

 

Thanks!

 

Justin

[Chris Higgs]

Is this wheel faulty?

 

I decided to have another look at the Jinty that has been sat in a drawer since one of the crank pins snapped during a ham fisted attempt to finesse the quartering.

 

After I wrestled the remains of the old crank pin out (I'd soldered it in) I noticed it didn't seem quite central on its boss. Once I cleaned it up, it definitely seems offset, so the pin isn't central on the boss when I put a replacement pin in.

 

IMG_20180603_232421.jpg

 

Is this actually a problem? Thinking about it, this probably explains why quartering by eye was problematic. But if I use the quartering jig, it should still be possible to get it aligned correctly?

 

Or should I just get a replacement?

 

Thanks!

 

Justin

 

Provided the crankpin has the correct throw from the axle, it should quarter fine using the jig. Indeed it will mess up doing it by eye. I did notice another wheel on here that had the same issue.

 

If you look really closely, some of the bosses on the wheels are not quite symetrical anyway, as the original masters were hand made.

 

Chris

Edited June 3, 2018 by Chris Higgs

[justin1985]

Provided the crankpin has the correct throw from the axle, it should quarter fine using the jig. Indeed it will mess up doing it by eye. I did notice another wheel on here that had the same issue.

 

If you look really closely, some of the bosses on the wheels are not quite symetrical anyway, as the original masters were hand made.

 

Chris

Thanks Chris - that certainly makes sense. The throw appears to be correct as the crankpin shoulder just meets, but doesn't overlap, the end of the boss on both wheels. I'll remove the rest of the brakegear and try refitting it using the jig tomorrow.

 

Justin

[DavidLong]

Lovely construction David, I wish I could make mine half as neatly.

 

If I have it right, when running in reverse the gearing force on the motor in the 03 would be pulling the worm away from the motor, so my original thought doesn't have legs. I do notice however that I added inner strengthening layers to the chassis around the gear layshaft areas on both the 04/08 chassis to beef them up a bit and this may well help absorb some produced vibration noise. Strangly I have found that these Chinese 7mm coreless motors run nicely 'out-of-the-box' with the default settings on the DCX 76's whereas the Farish & Nigel Lawton coreless types both need some tweaking with CV's to get the best out of them.

 

Will you be fitting stay-alives? Having now experienced the advanatge they produce even with good running locos like the 08, all my shunters will get them, and especially as I have also struggled to get really decent reliably running 03/04's.

 

In respect to the outside frames on the 08 I made a replacement footplate from thin brass shim sheet ( K&S sell very useful packs of it with a range of differing sizes), and then used point timbering strips glued to it with the OF's then soldered to them. The frames of course need isolating from the footplate, and the front/rear beams, so gaps were left. The front beams were made as a 'wrap-around' unit with the front steps and keeping a gap between the steps and frames proved 'interesting'. Plasticard between the frames then isolates the chassis from the footplate when it's all screwed together. I did post some shots on the yahoo VAG in the distant past but not sure if they are still around on the new IO VAG so have added a few here in case they may help anyone.

 

08 web 1.jpg

 

08 web 3.jpg

 

08 web 4.jpg

 

08 web 5.jpg

 

08 web 6.jpg

 

08 web 12.jpg

 

regards,

 

Bob

 

Bob,

 

Could you explain a little more about "inner strengthening layers to the chassis around the gear layshaft areas"?

 

I should mention that the raised noise level is not quite so noticeable on the 04 and 08 which makes the 03 more baffling. I do think that this sort of thing is always more noticeable at home in a quiet railway room; take them to an exhibition and no-one would probably notice!

 

I would like to have a go at a stay-alive, i suspect that the 04 may be the first guinea pig. Would the stay-alive fit in the cab?

 

For the 08 footplate I have a piece of the Association 0.8mm pcb which I intend to try out. This is single sided and the outside frames could be soldered to the copper side. The Farish footplate seems to measure a little over 0.9mm so the pcb should be a good match. I'm unsure whether to glue a piece of 10thou nickel or brass to the top to give a bit of overhang around the edges.

 

David

[Izzy]

Bob,

 

Could you explain a little more about "inner strengthening layers to the chassis around the gear layshaft areas"?

 

I should mention that the raised noise level is not quite so noticeable on the 04 and 08 which makes the 03 more baffling. I do think that this sort of thing is always more noticeable at home in a quiet railway room; take them to an exhibition and no-one would probably notice!

 

I would like to have a go at a stay-alive, i suspect that the 04 may be the first guinea pig. Would the stay-alive fit in the cab?

 

For the 08 footplate I have a piece of the Association 0.8mm pcb which I intend to try out. This is single sided and the outside frames could be soldered to the copper side. The Farish footplate seems to measure a little over 0.9mm so the pcb should be a good match. I'm unsure whether to glue a piece of 10thou nickel or brass to the top to give a bit of overhang around the edges.

 

David

 

 

David,

 

When I removed the gearbox parts I added another layer inside on both sides to give a bit of extra strength around the gear shaft areas. As Chris is now producing chassis etched with two layers this won't be needed, but I don't know whether all chassis are like this now, or just new types. But I have more original 04/08 chassis to build as I am also doing both green and blue versions.

 

My blue 04 will be the next to get a tantalum stay-alive. As even with the etched 2mm chassis and 7mm coreless there is so little spare room in the bonnet it does seem likely the cab floor will be where it goes, hopefully beneath the level of the cab windows. Watch this space......

 

If you use a solid piece of pcb you will have to allow for keeping all the individual parts isolated from each other which is why I went for just strips along the outside frames as the slightly easier option because you will need the thin footplate layer on top whatever to achieve the right base height for the buffer beams and front steps.

 

Bob

[Chris Higgs]

For the 08 footplate I have a piece of the Association 0.8mm pcb which I intend to try out. This is single sided and the outside frames could be soldered to the copper side. The Farish footplate seems to measure a little over 0.9mm so the pcb should be a good match. I'm unsure whether to glue a piece of 10thou nickel or brass to the top to give a bit of overhang around the edges.

 

David

 

On both the Association kit and the etched footplates I made the overhang is half-etched to 5 thou. 10 thou sounds a bit thick to me and may be obtrusive.

 

Bob Jones did/does some thinner (1mm thick) PCB frame spacer material that might prove to be of some use as it is double-sided.

 

Chris

[DavidLong]

On both the Association kit and the etched footplates I made the overhang is half-etched to 5 thou. 10 thou sounds a bit thick to me and may be obtrusive.

 

Bob Jones did/does some thinner (1mm thick) PCB frame spacer material that might prove to be of some use as it is double-sided.

 

Chris

 

I think you're right, Chris. 5 thou is 0.127mm and when added to 0.8mm gives the same thickness as the Farish footplate and would look better.

 

David

[itsthegman]

Hello

 

I think I remember someone talking about the society's 57xx chassis kit a while back.

 

I have been building one and I'm at the wheel stage, when wheels and muffs are fitted there is no discernible side to side movement, is this correct.

 

The muffs seem to be a snug fit between frames and bushes. Wheel back to back was set to 8.5mm with the gauge but it all seems to rigid. Saying that the wheels are free enough.

 

Is this right wrong should there be side play?..

 

Thx,

 

G.

[Chris Higgs]

Hello

 

I think I remember someone talking about the society's 57xx chassis kit a while back.

 

I have been building one and I'm at the wheel stage, when wheels and muffs are fitted there is no discernible side to side movement, is this correct.

 

The muffs seem to be a snug fit between frames and bushes. Wheel back to back was set to 8.5mm with the gauge but it all seems to rigid. Saying that the wheels are free enough.

 

Is this right wrong should there be side play?..

 

Thx,

 

G.

 

Check the overall width over the frames is 7.5mm. You also need to file down the bush ends slightly as they should not protrude. I assume you do have the shoulder of the bushes inside the frames, it sounds like you do.

 

Provided the wheels do not have too large a boss on the rear of the wheel then evrything should then be OK.

 

Based on the published dimensions there is not a lot of sideplay: http://2mm.org.uk/standards/locochassis.htm

 

 

Chris

Edited July 20, 2018 by Chris Higgs

[itsthegman]

"I assume you do have the shoulder of the bushes inside the frames, it sounds like you do."

 

I do, I checked just in case, I do - ?.

 

I'm still concerned the axle muff only just fits between the shoulder of the bushes.

[Chris Higgs]

"I assume you do have the shoulder of the bushes inside the frames, it sounds like you do."

 

I do, I checked just in case, I do - ?.

 

I'm still concerned the axle muff only just fits between the shoulder of the bushes.

 

You can, and perhaps should shorten the muffs slightly. Cut them with a (sharp) Stanley knife, much easier than filing.

 

Chris

[Argos]

I was wondering if someone could provide me with the outside diameter of the society's 9.5mm drivers (i.e. over the flange)?

 

I am currently looking to build a Caledonian Railway class 55 4-6-0, which has a very short wheelbase of 5'3" + 6'.

The driving wheels are 5'.

I've always known I would have to compromise somewhere, I'm just trying to work out the least worst option:-

  - Use the correct drivers and increase the 5'3" dimension on the wheelbase 

  - Remove/reduce the flange on the middle driver

  - Reduce the size of the drivers (hence the question about the 9.5mm driving wheels)

Or some combination of the three.

 

Thanks

 

Angus

Edited July 21, 2018 by Argos

[richbrummitt]

The flange is 0.5mm (actually given as .020" so 0.51 if they are made and you can measure that accurately) so the o/d is always +1mm on the size. This means for 9.5mm drivers the minimum spacing would be a scale 5'3" (10.5) plus tolerances and clearance so some small compromise or adaptation will be necessary. You might think about reducing the flanges by .1 or spacing at a minimum of 10.7mm (maybe a bit more if you plan on using 1.6mm axle holes for 'Simpson' spring pick ups to allow for the float)

[Argos]

Thanks Richard, 

Looks like 9.5mm drivers are the way to go with the adjustment you suggest.

 

I should have posted a picture of the engine in the first post.

The wheelbase is quite distinctive and something I want to capture.

 

[ianmaccormac]

Hi

Just going to add some 2mm SE&CR carriage transfers down the side of a sheet of LB&SCR 4mm Umber loco transfers. I need to check on heights of the large 1,2,3 on the door panels and the size of the SE&CR, First, Second, etc and numbers to go in the waist mouldings. Anyone help please?

Cheers

Ian

[ianmaccormac]

Hi

Many thanks, I have been given the dimensions in the pre-grouping thread.

Cheers

Ian

[chrisveitch]

I'm sure this has been asked before, but is there an up-to-date online list of Bob Jones' Fencehouses Model Foundry kits?

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[Steven Draper]

Not much modelling but I have been enjoying a few Steam Fairs recently and like the idea of putting a few elements like show engines, steam rollers, horses with carriages etc into some kind of scene. Is there a source of nice quality kits, etches or models that complement finer scale modelling - as opposed to blobs of plastic or metal !!! I'm not having much luck with google !!

Many Thanks,

[Gingerbread]

Not much modelling but I have been enjoying a few Steam Fairs recently and like the idea of putting a few elements like show engines, steam rollers, horses with carriages etc into some kind of scene. Is there a source of nice quality kits, etches or models that complement finer scale modelling - as opposed to blobs of plastic or metal !!! I'm not having much luck with google !!

 

Many Thanks,

I recommend Shire Scenes for etched models of horse-drawn vehicles.

Web site at http://www.shirescenes.co.uk/index.html

Of the whitemetal offerings, I generally prefer Langley

Web Site at http://www.langley-models.co.uk/

 

David

[richbrummitt]

Langley and Fleetline have traction engine and similar vehicles (road roller etc.) available - though in whitemetal so may be in your lumps of metal category.

[justin1985]

It doesn't help that Langley's website has some quite badly painted models as their "catalogue" shots! Its certainly possible to get better results from some of their kits, but I've also encountered some slightly misshapen mouldings. Steam and horse era models are probably actually a better bet than their internal combustion models - less need for flush glazing etc!

 

I find the Fleetline models tend to be more consistently moulded and perhaps slightly finer masters too. Getting second hand older production kits also seems to give you a better chance of getting a crisper moulding. Presumably the moulds are now very old, and have never been renewed.

 

Its kind of surprising that no one has stepped in with 3D printed models of these kinds of prototypes - the kinds of undercut shapes etc that feature on them would really bring out the advantages of 3D printing over casting. I know Rabs from this forum and Julia collaborated on some exceptionally fine traction engine wheels printed on a B9 Creator printer a while back, but only ever as a private project. 

 

Justin

[queensquare]

Half descent models can be made from some of the, now pretty long in the tooth, kits available, a handful are shown here though they are pretty crude and are very much 'layout models' - designed to blend in as part of an overall scene . I take a mix and match approach using wheels, bonnets etc combined with scratch bits. I rarely know the origins of the castings as most are picked up for pennies in rummage boxes at shows - usually stuck together with chewing gum and painted with an old tooth brush.  A good soak in a suitable stripper will usually reveal most of the original kit - often still complete with a full compliment of flash!!

 

Cart wheels are a little chunky but are improved with careful thinning although things like the pole wagon (scratch in plasticard) have a very heavy wheel in reality.

 

The best castings I've used are the Scalelink ones which are not always easy to find. Most of the traction engines and rollers have a basis with these and I add things like water hose, belly tanks, roof etc.

 

Some modern kits using etched and 3D technology would be very welcome. For some really lovely road vehicles have a good look at those along the Caledonian Road on CF, many are scratchbuilt including a beautiful open top London bus which I believe is the work of Matthew Wald.

 

 

 

 

 

Jerry 

[2mm Andy]

I'm sure this has been asked before, but is there an up-to-date online list of Bob Jones' Fencehouses Model Foundry kits?

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

Chris,

 

Not that I'm aware of - the most recent list I've seen is buried on the Fence Houses blog and is about 4 years old. I'd recommend dropping Bob an email (address in the 2mm yearbook) to get a list of what kits and etches are currently available.

 

Regards,

 

Andy

[chrisveitch]

Chris,

 

Not that I'm aware of - the most recent list I've seen is buried on the Fence Houses blog and is about 4 years old. I'd recommend dropping Bob an email (address in the 2mm yearbook) to get a list of what kits and etches are currently available.

 

Regards,

 

Andy

 

 

Thanks Andy - I asked the question as I realised there were a few FH products that I wasn't aware of when I saw Fencehouses at Railex NE this weekend. Yes, I could have asked Bob but I think he had enough to cope with already...