Any Question Answered

[Izzy]

I have finally progressed with my 08 Gronk One, and I am now looking to ass cranks and wheel weights. Looking at the photos I have, the counterweights seem to go opposite the cranks, is this generally correct? I can’t think why they should be any other way, but they don’t show up often in photos.

Thanks

John

They are fairly small since all they counter are the rods/cranks, and is why they are directly opposite them instead of offset as is more often the case. All due of course to the loco being a DE with traction motors on the front/rear axles, and mostly hidden behind the frames as well.

 

Izzy

[Jim T]

I'm just "FS-ing" a Farish Pipe Wagon. This has 14.0mm axles - yet another axle length thank you GF!

 

What do folks reckon is the best option:

• ​6mm plain disc wheels on 13.70mm axles and hope they stay in! I can live with them not having 3-holes.
• Drill out the axle box / axle guard from behind and use 12.25mm axles with the pin-point bearings (I have a tool for opening out for top hat bearings for my 4mm wagons but how do folks do it in 2mm?)
• Dump the Farish chassis and build an Association one? If so which one - there are several 12' WB chassis listed...

Cheers

Jim

[PaulCheffus]

 

What do folks reckon is the best option:

• Drill out the axle box / axle guard from behind and use 12.25mm axles with the pin-point bearings (I have a tool for opening out for top hat bearings for my 4mm wagons but how do folks do it in 2mm?)

 

Hi

 

Carefully with a 1mm drill bit but it is difficult to get it square to the axle box hole with this method.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Izzy]

The suggested inside measurement between 2mm bearings is 11.5mm, and with the two 0.25mm flanges on them 12mm between the inside of the w-irons. This is what my 2mm chassis seem to be - those I have just checked to be sure! I say this because when I use this method of re-wheeling Farish wagons I often find that I need to mount the top-hat bearings in small squares of plasicard packing as spacers which are then glued to the w-irons to get the right bearing distance. In doing this I find I rarely have to drill out the Farish w-irons as usually what's left of the bearing body poking out of the spacer fits centrally into the axle hole since the Farish axles are 1.5mm and thus the hole is fairly large in comparison with that needed for the 2mm 1mm dia axles. Might I suggest you measure the inside distance of the Farish w-irons and add the spacer thickness needed first.

 

Izzy

[Jim T]

The suggested inside measurement between 2mm bearings is 11.5mm, and with the two 0.25mm flanges on them 12mm between the inside of the w-irons. This is what my 2mm chassis seem to be - those I have just checked to be sure! I say this because when I use this method of re-wheeling Farish wagons I often find that I need to mount the top-hat bearings in small squares of plasicard packing as spacers which are then glued to the w-irons to get the right bearing distance. In doing this I find I rarely have to drill out the Farish w-irons as usually what's left of the bearing body poking out of the spacer fits centrally into the axle hole since the Farish axles are 1.5mm and thus the hole is fairly large in comparison with that needed for the 2mm 1mm dia axles. Might I suggest you measure the inside distance of the Farish w-irons and add the spacer thickness needed first.

 

Izzy

 

 

Really useful thank you Izzy. The answer is in the region of 12.5mm from the Micrometer (must buy a set of digital callipers for this kind of thing), so I reckon a 10 thou shim each side should do it. I'll give it a whirl this way and report back. It's always easier if you can use standard stock bits rather than having to order wheels on odd length axles and do nasty bodge solutions like blunting pin-points.

 

Thanks also Paul, hopefully thanks to Izzy I won't have to drill them out.

[Chris Higgs]

I'm just "FS-ing" a Farish Pipe Wagon. This has 14.0mm axles - yet another axle length thank you GF!

 

What do folks reckon is the best option:

• ​6mm plain disc wheels on 13.70mm axles and hope they stay in! I can live with them not having 3-holes.
• Drill out the axle box / axle guard from behind and use 12.25mm axles with the pin-point bearings (I have a tool for opening out for top hat bearings for my 4mm wagons but how do folks do it in 2mm?)
• Dump the Farish chassis and build an Association one? If so which one - there are several 12' WB chassis listed...

Cheers

Jim

 

14.2mm axles with a touch taken off each pinpoint with a file if needed. 13.7mm will not stay in.

 

Chris

[RichardBenn]

14.2mm axles with a touch taken off each pinpoint with a file if needed. 13.7mm will not stay in.

 

I too used 14.2mm axles but rather than file them I just fitted them, then gave the axleboxes a squeeze.

 

Replacing the chunky axleguard tie bar with plastic strip is a worthwhile improvement as well.

 

Richard

[Chris Higgs]

I'm contemplating buying a 3D print of an LNER J70 tram engine from Shapeways and wondering the best way to motorise it. Nominally it is an ultra-short wheelbase 0-6-0 but no-one can tell given the side sheets. Assuming I build a chassis for it, what will work best in terms of power pickup, an 0-6-0 or an 0-4-0 with a skid pickup? The GER precursor of the J70 was an 0-4-0 anyway, so it is not too much of a modelling abuse to build it that way.

 

Any other suggestions? Its going to be tricky as it is the equivalent of motorising a brake van.

 

Chris

Edited September 29, 2018 by Chris Higgs

[queensquare]

I'm contemplating buying a 3D print of an LNER J70 tram engine from Shapeways and wondering the best way to motorise it. Nominally it is an ultra-short wheelbase 0-6-0 but no-one can tell given the side sheets. Assuming I build a chassis for it, what will work best in terms of power pickup, an 0-6-0 or an 0-4-0 with a skid pickup? The GER precursor of the J70 was an 0-4-0 anyway, so it is not too much of a modelling abuse to build it that way.

 

Any other suggestions? Its going to be tricky as it is the equivalent of motorising a brake van.

 

Chris

 

One of these Nigel Lawton chassis would fit  http://www.nigellawton009.com/MPD18.html

I have one in a Sentinel which runs very well and Mark Fielder I know has one in a box van which powers his little Aveling and Porter loco.

 

Jerry

[richbrummitt]

Chris,

 

Would any of the Kato chassis fit? I don't think 0-4-0 or 0-6-0 would make a difference with skid pick ups.

 

Could you post a link to the body. I quite fancy a Toby

[2mmMark]

One of these Nigel Lawton chassis would fit  http://www.nigellawton009.com/MPD18.html

I have one in a Sentinel which runs very well and Mark Fielder I know has one in a box van which powers his little Aveling and Porter loco.

 

Jerry

 

Jerry's correct, I have a Mk1 MPD in a box van.  Nigel has since redesigned the chassis kit with better bearings. The Mk1 simply ran axles in a brass etch.  I beefed up the bearing surfaces with extra layers of brass.  The wheels Nigel supplies are very fine and I just regauged them to 8.5mm BTB. Total gear reduction is about 45:1.

 

It ought to work very nicely in a J70. There will be room for a fair bit of lead weight. Could we have a link to print on Shapeways?  I'd be quite interested to see what it's like.  Given the correct orientation, it ought to print quite well.

 

Mark

[Wotan]

Hello , a general question I’d be grateful for some advice with, i have a Dapol class 52 western is like to convert to 2mmfs. For a new fledgling project. The construction looks a little different from earlier models, how does one get the wheels and axles our for turning???

I’m sure it’s quite straightforward but would welcome some pointers please

Many thanks

[Gareth Collier]

This is probably what was being referred to:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/YPJMS7YAF/b-148-y6-tram-loco-1?optionId=64988501

https://www.shapeways.com/product/PJJZJRVWV/b-148fs-j70-tram-loco-1?optionId=68890443

[2mmMark]

Some details on the MPD18 can be found here:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1345/entry-11886-a-long-standing-project-revived/

 

Mark

[DavidLong]

MPD18 unfortunately showing as out of stock at present:

 

http://www.nigellawton009.com/PayPalLocos.html

 

May be worth asking Nigel when he will have them in stock again.

 

David

[Lacathedrale]

I've got a few 2FS bits I'd like to move on (Farish 37 in BR Green, Jinty + conversion bits, various odds and sods wagons, track components, jigs, etc. ) - where's the best place to sort that?

[Kylestrome]

I've got a few 2FS bits I'd like to move on (Farish 37 in BR Green, Jinty + conversion bits, various odds and sods wagons, track components, jigs, etc. ) - where's the best place to sort that?

 

An advert in the Magazine or on the VAG?

 

David

[Lacathedrale]

Thanks David. Since posting this I think I'd like to give 2FS one more try. I've been having just so much trouble with it, my enthusiasm almost completely drained.

 

I guess this is a question more for the thread than anywhere else - what should I do when I'm just not very good with it comes to precision work? Should I just keep bashing away? My PCB pointwork seemed find until it was a bit tight, then a bit loose, then a bit tight somewhere else, etc. until everything was a complete mess. I built an easitrac point and it was OK, but I didn't really enjoy it, and it was 'off' the PCB point which I never got working properly, so didn't get to see it in anger. With regard to kits, I can barely hold the pieces let alone solder them in place effectively - again, is this a specific technique or just practise?

 

Sorry to come across as a bit of a downer, but I've invested a few hundred quid into some locos, parts, kits and components and feel like I've come out with less than nothing - it has been a net loss in enjoyment and enthusiasm - and I'm sure that's not an uncommon beginner thought, which is why I'm back here asking for help - but I literally do not know how to proceed.

Edited October 5, 2018 by Lacathedrale

[Caley Jim]

Not sure how to reply to you as I don't know who you are or where you live.  If I did, I might be able to direct you to a local area group or an experienced member near you as i am the Association Data Officer, maintaining the membership database.

 

2FS modelling does need a degree of discipline, perseverance and the ability to manipulate small parts. Everyone has their own means of doing this, tweezers, cocktail sticks, clothes pegs on skewers and hairgrips have all been employed to hold and maneuver things.

 

As regards pointwork, for soldered track, both roller and button guages are essential and a methodical approach is needed, not moving on to the next step unless the current one is correct.  Do you have a copy of 'Track'?  If you care to PM me, perhaps I can put you in touch with someone locally who might be able to mentor you.  I'm off to the AGM tomorrow and probably won't be back until late, so it might be Sunday before I reply.

 

Jim

[Lacathedrale]

Hi Jim,

 

I've got a roller gauge, button gauge and three point guage. I think my problem was using the three point gauge and ending up narrowing  around the curved route of the turnout.

 

I do have a copy of Track, I guess it's time to re-read that and have another bash. As per your kind PM and my reply - after half an hour of navel gazing I dusted off an old track template that had some PCB sleepers on and I guess I'll give it another shot.

[Ian Smeeton]

Hi Jim,

 

I've got a roller gauge, button gauge and three point guage. I think my problem was using the three point gauge and ending up narrowing  around the curved route of the turnout.

 

I do have a copy of Track, I guess it's time to re-read that and have another bash. As per your kind PM and my reply - after half an hour of navel gazing I dusted off an old track template that had some PCB sleepers on and I guess I'll give it another shot.

 

Try and crack on a bit.

 

My first couple of points were 'not good', but with some practice, I have got on reasonably well.

 

The great thing about the PCB method is that it is cheap enough to bin if it is not right.

 

See here for (some) of my trials & tribulations:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/130137-tandem-queries-scissors-slip-up/

 

Dont give up yet.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[Caley Jim]

Hi Jim,

 

I've got a roller gauge, button gauge and three point guage. I think my problem was using the three point gauge and ending up narrowing  around the curved route of the turnout.

I wouldn't use the three point gauge for turnouts, in fact I don't own one!  Ideally you need a couple of roller gauges and definitely two button gauges as they determine the position of the crossing nose..  For check and wing rail clearances, a piece of scrap rail, well coated in Vaseline to stop it soldering, is easiest in my experience.

 

Jim

[Donw]

A lot of it is down to finding out what works for you. Little tricks to make things easier. One example is I have a pair of forceps with a curved end and discovered that gripping the rail with them the two handles could be arranged to hold the rail vertical while I soldered it. I coullddn't manage without some magnification and realising that I could buy an extra strong pair of reading glasses in poundland. I find them very convenient too strong to walk about wearing them but sat at the workbench it makes a world of difference. Good light is essential too.  Aluminium hair clips and clothes pegs can be very useful to hold things together yet not get soldered to them. David Eveleigh made a useful device with a rod in a wooden base and an adjustable clothes peg which I saw in the mag. I find my worktraywhich has sides is very handing for say fixing a side to a floor you can used the worktrsy side to support the side  while you fix it to the floor.

 

Regarding track be careful if pushing the rail sideways with the gauge any pressure on the gauge should be downwards. You may find it easier to fix the rail every third or fourth sleeper and test beore fixing the rest as it is much easier to adjust with fewer fixing points. I often use two wagons and push one through a turnout with the other using just one finger it can show up problems you are not guiding the wagon.

 

Lastly some things you may find you are never that good at look for ways round it. For example the milled crossing used with the Peggged chairs can also be used with pcb trackwork to at least help you get started.

 

Regards Don

[RichardBenn]

If you are in the UK, then find your nearest Area Group.

 

All modelling, but 2FS in particular, is about finding the way that works for you and unfortunately, this only comes with experience. Why do you think there are so many methods for building track? :-)

 

What I can almost say for certain is that your next turnout will be a huge improvement on your first. As Jim says, don't use the three point gauge - it can give useful widening on very sharp curves but only use it on turnouts if you really understand exactly where you need to use it.

 

Every failure is a gift in that it gives you a huge opportunity to learn and improve. And I've had more gifts than most in this regard.

 

Richard

Edited October 6, 2018 by RichardBenn

[Kylestrome]

Hi Jim,

 

I've got a roller gauge, button gauge and three point guage. I think my problem was using the three point gauge and ending up narrowing  around the curved route of the turnout.

 

I do have a copy of Track, I guess it's time to re-read that and have another bash. As per your kind PM and my reply - after half an hour of navel gazing I dusted off an old track template that had some PCB sleepers on and I guess I'll give it another shot.

We can’t all be experts at everything. If track building is not not your forté, you could try contacting Keith Armes. He builds 2FS track to order and, as far as I know, charges reasonable prices.

 

David