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Mr Simon's N and 2mm Workbench - pg29> N V1 2-6-2, 2mm L&Y class 23, assorted wagons and stuff


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On 15/11/2020 at 18:02, MrSimon said:

Thanks Nigel - it certainly provided one of the stranger kitchen experiences I’ve had!

 

 

How much do you think will be sorted out with a white metal body pressing everything down?

 

Many thanks

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

The white metal body made a great difference to running and pickup. I opened out the axle holes for Simpson springing a bit more than that recommended (1.7mm vs.1.6mm), so the loco waddles around a bit, though this might be because there is a lot of sideplay on the axles. However, it does run well for a 2mm 0-6-0T.

 

Nigel Hunt

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Thanks Nigel,

 

I think I’ve just got the brakes to do, I was putting it off a little but now I’m in Tier 4 I’m sure they’ll be done in no time!

 

Just to catch the thread up on what I’ve been upto, the answer is not a lot!  I made a stock tray for the 2mm wagons and then set about finishing the wagons that go in it:

 

6792E57D-B235-44E4-8650-638BF903646C.jpeg.3f98320af9ed09dcc1b432ed6fa9b354.jpeg

 

1A56DFC9-4213-4A36-9245-F73B947B3F7E.jpeg.5e90490601ec7750e9222c099a40f57f.jpeg

 

I also finished the paint/detail job on the turned-down J94:

 

FA761B7F-9515-408B-A490-F53AE257F818.jpeg.d8747346dff3aaecc8d11dbc884e3be0.jpeg

 

6FAC6C71-F14F-453C-8DBD-36CCDF54E291.jpeg.7a95279dbfb3a521b4a04b53eb0071cd.jpeg

The crew and lamp are Modelu (since taking this picture I’ve finished painting the lamp, and glazed it).  I’m pleased with how it’s turned out, it’s spurred me on to finish the L&Y tank and the 2mm J94!  
 

Finally, in what might be my greatest act of prevarication (and what will lead to potentially the most prevarication ever) I got this from Railtec:

 

11161B56-5589-4312-B6E2-3885B8906B68.jpeg.3656b75417c22a20fa03c929ad9b0f12.jpeg

Nearly 32 different vehicle numbers!  It has the vehicle numbers for all the modern DMU repairs I’ve been doing/planning, and all three 4car 1st gen units.  The eagle eyed will be able to work out exactly what’s in my queue/to build pile!

 

I’ll try get better at updating this... 

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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Thanks Duncan, I’m pleased with how they’ve turned out - I’ve got 15-16 weathered and with couplings now (with nowhere to run them yet!)

 

Hope you and Janet have a very merry tier 3 Christmas!

 

Simon

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Morning everybody!

 

Two more 2mm wagons finished this morning:

 

C22ACCC9-C887-4429-8E08-4B092363EAFC.jpeg.662873eab0758fc5c551c92fb38b0df3.jpeg

 

2C31BDDD-7965-4A41-AE13-F378BC774A31.jpeg.806c0f8231095d753d8cf1e49992feab.jpeg

Two ex-LNER fitted vans, one I started probably 12-15 years ago! The planked side one is BR coloured, the other is LNER bauxide.  I need a bit more powder on the door of the ply sided one after the marking started looking rude when I varnished it...

 

Oops haha!

 

Simon

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Thanks Dave! Hope you had a very Happy Christmas! 
 

It’s been a crazy year on my workbench, not least having to keep clearing it for work calls, but I’ve really enjoyed exploring 2mm more and keeping the N for running.

 


For the last few years there’s been a rail tour at Christmas on Gresby, even though Gresby’s in storage I could still run the tour.

 

Today’s stock includes five of the first six wagons for the Gypsum train (with a substitute class 66 after the GBRF one failed), a DMU I can’t remember detailing, the Pipe Train, and the first run of the Fragonset Club Train with the new Mark 2s.

 

26743837-802B-4948-B473-7F99CF0DD6C0.jpeg.7604d01c69b58f7cc0b19545975331d5.jpeg

 

Let’s see if anything else will make it to the workbench before New Year!

 

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

Hope everyone is well after the Christmas break?  I had a dreaded attack of the transfers over the weekend and started numbering units... (transfers being the thing I reeeeeally dislike doing for those new to the thread)

 

5CD21A45-52EB-40CA-A4C2-E06E9B75265D.jpeg.3eeb9c0f17e71d1a82359b0045174b8d.jpeg

The whole 108 was numbered, and two middle cars were lined too... there’s just a bit of painting (including the roof and the window bars on this coach) and it’s complete - ready for use on Croft Spa when exhibitions get started again...

 

DDBE5011-4845-478A-80E8-FE6F10426778.jpeg.4a9492907d763f630d92a09d1e771450.jpeg

The railtec numbers sheet is a boon - the plain blue 156 is numbered (vehicle and unit number) which I never would have bothered doing with a set of individual numbers. I think I just need to find some NORTHERN’s, but it can always run without.
 

Here’s a blast from the old days (2015, page 12) with massive thanks to @Robert Shrives of this parish for the spare glazing strip I finally fitted the Dapol glazing to the new windows on the 155.


7E7504BE-953F-45BE-9E21-68A0AE4335C3.jpeg.7827b00be4203780be8a772248d16786.jpeg

 

2B02AD5E-E560-4F85-9130-18DCF99FB6E3.jpeg.b8c700dde14958c498e93ef3a10652cb.jpeg

Other than weathering, tidying up the paint on the lighting clusters, and numbering the fronts this unit is done!

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

Bit of post came yesterday:

 

F68CD1D3-0CE8-494C-A33B-A1614C9B91FA.jpeg.6987813a5bd15e2ca5911aeda1a92c29.jpeg

Obviously had to give it a run, with some other bits...

 

The blue 156 has gone back in the box until I source some NORTHERNs.  The 142 is next on the repaint list.  I’m please with the 92, but need to see if there’s a way of turning out the lights in the cab...

 

There’s also been doing some 2mm over the Bank Holiday weekend.

 

C1228B28-12E2-4FBC-B903-497C42C6D0CB.jpeg.dbe93f289331fc1f6075002b49f0ade0.jpeg

Finally got the brake shoes started for the 060; I was going to go further then I realised I needed to fit and quarter the wheels before being able to solder on the brake shoes...

 

2DE7A36E-6E95-4C61-8A1F-1BDECE9DE878.jpeg.82b023772706fcdabbf47208542e52eb.jpeg

This it almost done, I just need to think about loading it before finishing it off, so it’s as good as done.  
 

41AAD1F0-BC18-4264-9AEA-5CDA3B077CC9.jpeg.6c54717ba55997862bd7620eb5f42281.jpeg

LNER fitted open.  I also had a LMS HIGHFIT on the go but I bought a 9’ instead of 10’ chassis, so I whipped up a van body:

 

75C017A3-B28A-41E9-9FC9-91623F86B847.jpeg.5ba98219f89726fe906f354756cef274.jpeg

Seems a strange place to put a brake lever to me, but who am I to argue with the LMS?!

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

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Nice work Simon. I'm not sure if you are fussed, but you've opted to stick a 9ft chassis under an LMS van that only ever had 10ft chassis.

 

The 9ft 8 shoe fitted chassis was used on some banana vans, and little if anything else. All the fitted vans with the body style you have there either had the 8 shoe 10ft chassis (or 4 shoe Morton brake if converted to fitted status by BR).

 

The short brake lever was a feature of many, but not all, 8 shoe fitted LMS chassis.

 

Simon

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Thanks Simon, 

 

I was taking a bit of a punt putting it under the van TBH - it had been destined for a Parkwood Highfit until I saw it in the book with a 10ft chassis and I thought a van might be a safer bet...  I’ve got another van body I could use, it’s the NGS one with the vertical planks and either ventilated or unventilated ends - I’m guessing that’s nothing like the LMS banana van?  

 


It’s not stuck down yet so still plenty of time for changes.  How similar is the LMS banana van to the PECO one is previously used as a basis for a load of other banana vans?  Is there an LMS BV kit available?

 

I’ve got another of the LMS 9’ fitted chassis in the box - if they don’t really go under much I can see why they’re in stock and the 10’ has been out of stock for years!

 

Thanks for your help :)

Simon

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The 9ft chassis goes with the BR banana van kit (2-563) to backdate it. Have a look at the Association shop list for the instructions etc to see how it compares with the Peco one. It looks superficially similar although the Peco one will be over long and have eaten too many mince pies.

 

The 9ft chassis are now mainly a great source of the short brake levers and the 8 shoe brakes etc.  There are some lovely 3D printed LMS J hanger springs+axleboxes available, but to my knowledge there's no 8 shoe chassis you can just plonk the LMS axleboxes on and get a correct chassis. A 10ft chassis with a central V hanger can be modified with bits from the 9ft LMS 8 shoe chassis to give a 10ft one.

 

Simon

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3 hours ago, 65179 said:

The 9ft chassis goes with the BR banana van kit (2-563) to backdate it. Have a look at the Association shop list for the instructions etc to see how it compares with the Peco one. It looks superficially similar although the Peco one will be over long and have eaten too many mince pies.

 

The 9ft chassis are now mainly a great source of the short brake levers and the 8 shoe brakes etc.  There are some lovely 3D printed LMS J hanger springs+axleboxes available, but to my knowledge there's no 8 shoe chassis you can just plonk the LMS axleboxes on and get a correct chassis. A 10ft chassis with a central V hanger can be modified with bits from the 9ft LMS 8 shoe chassis to give a 10ft one.

 

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

I have used the LNER 10' fitted underframe etch (ref 2-333) and the steel chassis conversion kit (ref 2-337) to make an LMS 8 shoe underframe. I made a few modifications such as re-positioning the vacuum cylinder, removing the LNER style V hangers and using different brake handles. I'm not sure how close to the prototype it ended up. I did this before Chris Higgs did a chassis for the NGS vans. I'll dig out some of these vans and take a pic or two when I get a chance.

 

Nigel Hunt

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Hi Nigel, 

 

Sorry for the delay getting back to you! Work went crazy after I was last on here!  It’s be really interesting to see how you did the underframe - I know there are one or two options for unfitted wagons/vans using the generic underframe.  (I guess the easiest thing would be for the assoc to do another run of 10’ chassis, but there’s probably not enough demand!)

 

Today’s modelling activity is this:

 

7A9F43F1-03E1-4FB6-94FD-FF3081AC990B.jpeg.fcf378d7f904e6a0c06a0e96ed9a11ba.jpeg

I chickened out of soldering the washers in until I’d been able to test it with the motor - when I test fit the motor I realised I’d glued it too far forward (so that’s been altered) and then I couldn’t find the worm... I think it’s free running, but I’ll know for definitely when it’s run under its own power.

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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So this runs...

 

 
There’s a few jobs left, I have to glue the balance weights on and solder the washers on for the side rods, and tidy the wiring up, but other than that this is ready for the paint shop. 
 

Best finish the body!!

 

Lots to do
Simon

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  • MrSimon changed the title to Mr Simon's N and 2mm Workbench - pg26> Unitrack floor running, V1 2-6-2, L&Y class 23, other stuff...
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On 17/01/2021 at 16:25, MrSimon said:

So this ru
There’s a few jobs left, I have to glue the balance weights on and solder the washers on for the side rods, and tidy the wiring up, but other than that this is ready for the paint shop. 
 

Best finish the body!!

 

Lots to do
Simon

Hi Simon,

 

Looking good so far. Its rare for a 2mm chassis at this stage to run perfectly, but this seems fine and will improve with the weight of the body on it. 

 

Nigel Hunt

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Hello everybody!

 

It’s been a while, I’ve not been completely hibernating but my nap-to-modelling ratio has been skewed more towards shut-eye recently... There has been stuff happening though!

 

First up, the bodywork on the L&Y tank:

 

C41AE975-C1B8-42D6-B495-9D20DADFC1B8.jpeg.286011a423ec8db858587f248178b106.jpeg

 

D7998515-01D0-464A-9336-F438BD7E9F9B.jpeg.58fed6ce7ab745b388f66539d4e4a385.jpeg

 

It took a lot of work to get the back of the bunker to sit ok, after ages trying to file the coal rails to fit I decided to make new ones. I’ve got lamp irons, buffers and handrails ready for the back of the loco too... these might not get fitted until the front has been built and that needs even more work than the back!!!

 

749682E2-4DE8-4883-B090-064E1C1A7312.jpeg.14016465d1ce92e4965530cfa80ee98f.jpeg

Next up a bit of a repaint - this was featured in the last Gresby work session as going into the paint shop imminently and 13 months later it actually has!  I didn’t realise the Welsh colour was so different to the ATN Arriva so the body side has had an entire repaint... note use of Humbrol black MATT on the cab!

 

4CE6E0EB-B2D0-477A-B570-F58E7EBC8CD6.jpeg.d237a0915134235c9b657220530399e7.jpeg

 

A8CD396E-32F8-406D-A125-6C884FEC5AD6.jpeg.6b0d85b0da8056641414eaaf933a1ceb.jpeg

The repainted sides need the yellow line doing, I’m waiting for the second car to catch up so I can mask them up at the same time for the yellow line.  Good news is the picture I’m working from shows the unit with only running numbers (meaning it must have been taken around the pre-Serco-Northern Franchise change)

 

5857876C-C830-433F-85A6-724CAC93F45D.jpeg.f3a3ab152a73cc3bdeab6ea3e222b1aa.jpeg

In other news this has been happening... it hasn’t got further than this yet.

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

Something is actually within the home-straight of being finished, almost a year since it’s first un-finished show debut!

 

E34A37CB-C800-4A3C-9BB2-6DEFA9600CF1.jpeg.b167f40f8fe346efc4a09d1c2b44341c.jpeg

Its the class 108!  I’ve got the first two cars finished - the trailer second and one of the driving motor comps.  I’ve just stuck on a tail lamp and painted the glazing bars on the other driving motor, and I need to fix a bit of lining I damaged on the brake and then it’s finished!

 

8A431AA3-6702-44DA-ABC1-68DE2EA8DBE7.jpeg.61b8cf29916926df03a699f63374810a.jpeg

The cab front getting dirty (which was mostly all wiped off)

 

5C1A7B4D-04EA-4724-B7E2-259216B78F8A.jpeg.234551ab83df1cf2397d80bc94853521.jpeg

After - but I still might remove a bit more dirt from the cab dome. Once I find the bits I’ll fix pipes onto the front buffer beam.

 

B990E46F-BDE3-43C9-9F3C-2A670260FF0A.jpeg.d80c5b05722e6908c8febcfb392f47c8.jpeg

B1C5963F-A395-44EE-BE8D-90DEE2DC7DBF.jpeg.60f234eecfa845b66fd2b1a936753a82.jpeg

Each side of the two finished coaches.  After painting they both had a coat of gloss, then the transfers were sealed with a coat of satin, the after the humbrol powders were rubbed on and wiped off it had a single coat of Klear.

 

1DA44EF0-61E3-4DC3-A315-65F20B51ABCB.jpeg.3eb7c90f8e139dc682678814983b6199.jpeg

Next up, the next engine in the 2mm queue!  I bought this from Hattons with no centre axle on the tender, so it’s jumped the queue for conversion.  @justin1985 showed me how he built frames for his so I’m giving it a go... anything to avoid transfers!!

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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Hello everybody,

 

Here’s the second driving car finished:

 

A64ED95B-29A8-45D1-AB0B-16E873863057.jpeg.d9011dbf972f380e5ecda0cee8a25e63.jpeg

 

DD893E09-DCDD-4045-85F9-D5DEA4B84FD7.jpeg.440cc9b5f8290d30c5df63447f07f3f9.jpeg

 

I even added the detailing kit to the buffer beam on this one while I was fitting the tail lamp:

 

E1892AE7-5DEC-479C-9D59-588B7A91814A.jpeg.c46de1bbcbab49f0410168057f67925d.jpeg

It looks much better than this terrible picture suggests - once the 4th car is finished I’ll take some better pics in better light...

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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Hello everybody,

 

I didn’t get the 4F chassis finished just yet, but it’s getting there...

 

82FED1C9-D49F-4036-ADEA-44B0983209E9.jpeg.09cdf030bf5cfe01ac0ef5ad096981f5.jpeg

My main issue was my saw has gone blunt, so I’m waiting for a new blade.  This is both sides tacked together with the axle holes part drilled through, the flat neat side is the bottom, the uneven side won’t be there once I’ve cut it off (the eagle eyed will see the scored lines showing the top and the axle centres). It took a few days of drilling out the holes incrementally larger but it’s done now.  Once the blade comes I’ll cut it roughly to shape, file it the rest of the way to shape, and get the PCB!

 

While I had the soldering iron out I solved the problem of the LMS chassis:

 

D86C5419-4B99-450F-8575-310843FF32D7.jpeg.24be4cd906f80dc009dfa4766ea3fcd2.jpeg

It became a banana van!  My first ever soldered body (that came out well)

 

A86E208C-53CE-4F02-8BCA-34A7AE96E68B.jpeg.f8289bdf1bc2bb6499dd69e1a0a77d2d.jpeg

There are some bits not quite right with it but I’ll know for the second one...82511523-4615-4374-AA9F-8F53051F3FF1.jpeg.42e1ad4a29c1eabfb3602e2c3eb00f48.jpeg

This is the good side. The other side doesn’t have strapping and I’m not sure if the door bits are in the right place... I’m calling it a win though!  I’ve got one more of these to do and then I found an LNWR etched van in my tin (I’ve got no idea how that got in there). 
 

Everything else is plodding along... hope everyone’s well?

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

First bit of 2mm scratchbuilding almost done - and finally have a 4F with a six wheeled tender... (the fact that it’s currently two different gauges is neither here nor there)

 

27B074D0-D7C7-40A1-A29E-4E9DF23EA25B.jpeg.6a12ce488f866af8bfaf0ae9a7eeb360.jpeg

My saw went blunt so I had to finish it with a file; there was a surprising amount of work to do

 

AF7BDB9E-3F55-4174-88AD-73817749C644.jpeg.f6027cb49ed27c28ef95b66e9c17a9b2.jpeg

Today I shaped two bits of PCB around the water scoop and soldered it together

 

7756C844-94F1-48D9-ACB1-1B3E0B871249.jpeg.886a455b73ea19f7b4d0455f3663e851.jpeg

While I was waiting for the chassis to dry I masked the wheel treads and painted the wheels (I used Halfords satin black primer which will get a dirtier top coat)

 

71302E83-8319-49C6-8C85-409F03B95CCD.jpeg.dbd19acd18817abb1c6abed7c007ceef.jpeg

It needed a little adjustment to make sure all wheels turned on the rail. It needs the outer faces of the chassis painting, but the ‘bearing’ is behind the cosmetic axle box so won’t need fully painting, and the electrical isolation and connection needs fitting/checking

 

0A2F4353-1919-4586-8EAD-0F8A02886B56.jpeg.a944d7e74bb092a5322c0af30107e12b.jpeg

Test fit. I’m going to see if I can make the PCB sit slightly lower to lower the coal space a little.


I ordered some track bits yesterday...

 

Lots to do!

Simon

 

 

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Hello everybody,

 

Just a little done on the workbench this weekend, I’ve been out in the garden instead!  I thought I’d at least get the 4F tender finished and then I snapped a wire on the drawbar so had to order a new one... but it’s ready to paint and glue together.

 

I did some transfers (less than I thought because apparently I imagined ordering some) and have finally finished the class 108:

 

13E545B6-2B8B-4BE1-ABBE-DD7AFE7F1957.jpeg.54bd6a8cc928a17cf783597327cd378a.jpeg

 

00944739-04C3-499F-BE06-0FE14A00B663.jpeg.05351286a73a5d25efd86c845a0ff84d.jpeg

Next time I get the unitrack out I’ll give it a test and get some pictures as a complete unit.  
 

30E999EF-E725-4E78-B13A-25C9EA3B0B79.jpeg.036b3661bf2b91e607d1777312d5c9c0.jpeg

This got some transfers, not entirely sure I put the British Railways in the right place... 

 

06D23ABF-FE9A-46C4-8B88-156FFE0C34B4.jpeg.0788fe1bdd920858cfef690056b5bd6b.jpeg

I thought I had the transfers for the wagon, if I do they’ve been borrowed by the little people... next up I need to paint a set of securing chains (or I saw some secured with rope which I might have a go at)

 

Nothing else to show at the moment, but I saw in the Loco Bits and Pieces book what I need to do to progress the smokebox of the L&Y Class 23 - just gotta file a load of pin heads to shape...

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

I had a week off this week, instead of doing loads of stock like I’d planned I got a little distracted:

 

19AC83DD-4763-40AD-9157-7D59B899D060.jpeg.d90e8a139e327f2fcb8c34a2f8d271a3.jpeg

My first proper 2mm point. It’s ridiculously tight so won’t be on a mainline!  And it works!

 

Back on page 17 I set myself the challenge of doing some shunting in 2mm - took 10 pages and 3 years:

 

Here’s my first 2mm shunting. I should have picked a wagon with a better coupling...! I’ve also got the L&Y 060 running, it’s much better running with the weight of the body.  
 

Lots left to do on the body too.

 

Also this week the driving wheels for the 4F came:

 

D67E2B54-15AD-4BF5-BC20-5CD5B6D769EF.jpeg.1a6b5230ca3fc2ab73d5727642b9ecff.jpeg

The wheels are fitted and quartered, I need to solder the rods and add the weights/paint the wheels.  I’ve got an issue with the running though - the motor just kinda whirls, if I press the shaft down it runs and then pops loose again... not sure what’s going on there (it does it with the N wheels on too so it’s not the conversion that’s done it)

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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Hello everybody! 

Today I did probably the scariest thing I’ve had to do so far I. 2mm... I cut the crank pins to length and soldered on a washer that stops the coupling rod falling off:

 

764B91BC-D161-4D6B-9485-3F3A0997DB43.jpeg.1697ad788610a273a9c34ad3125a325b.jpeg

I think this was scary because I’ve got the chassis running quite well and I didn’t want to ruin it.  
 

4E3CEF9A-4CA9-4B0B-80A3-1A740B4E30EA.jpeg.275c7d1947852b2b19a4a88026906294.jpeg

I used two layers of tin foil - one to stop the rod soldering to the bottom of the crank pin/the wheel, and the second layer between the rod and the washer.  Once the washer was soldered on I filed it flat.

 

And it still worked!  
 

0BBD3E50-FB8C-4B63-A05D-8F699AE1860A.jpeg.2148ae8132780ff8ab3393f4b3616a2a.jpeg

 

BA1BBA17-42FD-4CE9-A4F6-562E5ADCE460.jpeg.512406b508c98b25b43db1a72cb7a95e.jpeg

Now it’s just cosmetic work on the chassis - I need to build a new brake block after losing one, but once I’ve worked out where to attach the wires everything else is painting :) 

 

Just the body left to finish now... lots to do!

Simon

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