Mr Simon's N and 2mm Workbench - pg29> N V1 2-6-2, 2mm L&Y class 23, assorted wagons and stuff

[MrSimon]

Erm at the moment the Tender is in the sulking box, but it will be used for definite - the filed plasticard gives a virtually friction free chassis block (so I need to see how much painting affects this and then weather the plasticard warps - its a long term experiment I've decided ) so its definitely something I'd use for tenders in the future. Watch this space hehe!

Turning my attention to the business end of the Crab I dug out my pack of handrail knobs and wire, after looking at loads of pictures of Crabs I drilled holes for the handrails and then scraped off the moulded ones. I'm not sure where I read about using staples as lamp irons, but I thought I'd give it a go so I drilled out holes for these too. It became apparent that the Crab would need a full boiler repaint, and red lining is my absolute favourite thing to do...



The hand rails went on really well. I was surprised to see that there was so much handrail left behind the last knob, but I confirmed it on loads of pictures of different Crabs - so I'll just have to be careful with it:


The staples look good, but it must have been a very patient sadist that first tried it... Theres no lamp iron nearest the camera because its being lamped for pick-up goods so there'll be a lamp there. I've just done the first coat of black on the boiler and its starting to look better - will take a picture after another coat so it can be admired before I mess up the lining


I also found this in my box, its not staying green, but I am going to give shortening it to fit on a 9ft chassis a go.

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[BernardTPM]

Hi Simon,

Good work on the Crab; I hope you didn't loose too many drills doing the handrails!

The Farish single vent van is a late '30s LNER design (in fact the same as the one recently done in 4mm by Bachmann) so is 17'6" long on a 10' w.b. That looks like the later version of the body. There are a couple of isues with this: the lamp bracket is very tall (not too hard to sort with a sharp knife and some filing) and the sliding door is moulded flush with the side instead of being stepped out. Oddly the earlier tool Farish used was correct in both respects, though the detail is a little neater on the later body. I scored down the sides of the door and underneath the side with a sharp knife and took it out, sticking it back in place a 10 thou." further out. Many that were originally unfitted would have had vac. brakes added in the late 1950s, so 'standard' 4 shoe brakes are OK. Those that were built fitted would have clasp brakes to the standard LNER pattern.

[MrSimon]

Hi Bernard,

 

Believe it or not I drilled all 9 holes in the crab withthe same bit and it didn't even break when i put it back in the case (which is an actual miracle for me) there must have been some sort of witch-craft involved there!

 

I'll have a look round my boxes for a 10ft underframe - I'd just assumed the Farish van was a mix of designs like the Peco banana van - I've got some vacuum pipes somewhere so it can be fitted, and the door mod sounds easier than shortening it

 

There must be something in one of my boxes that'll go on a 9ft underframe...

 

Thanks for your help

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

So it takes quite a lot of cutting to get the doors off one of those vans! I've also just realised that the chassis I found for it is wooden solebar (boo massive magnification on screen, yay dark work bench and N gauge) but it should be ok. Before I start with the probable 19 coats of paint to cover the green, do I need to put rain strips on the roof?



I'll have look around the boxes for other Farish vans, I'm sure I saw a fyffes van somewhere!

As promised here is the Crab in its first coat of black - I'm hoping the weathering will pick out the details:



Hopefully tomorrow should be a productive day working on Stamford East, I'll post some pictures if it is - if not its back to the banana vans

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

I've been out wiring today and managed to get all sections of Stamford East working so now Trevor can get cracking with the scenery in time for Grantham Modelrail show where it debuts in September, obviously I had to take the Crab over to test on pointwork so I took a few pictures of it:


More scenic than the windowsill!


We checked the width of the platform with the widest thing likely to run into the station, and had a play with the uncoupling magnets. The BHE tender makes such a difference (shame the 4f will be out of action for a while though) next job is to re-line the boiler and line the tender.


The front of the Stamford East station building.

The rest of today shall be sorting out banana vans!

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

I had a bit of a mad dash yesterday to finish some wagons for Trevor:


They southern van is a society kit (which shouldn't be looked at too closely due to a slight building error...) and the three open wagons are LNER steel opens from the parkwood kits - I've just got the banana/insulated vans and three container flats left to do and I can crack on with my own stock without feeling guilty!

I've also got the zoflora van pretty much finished except for the roof and tidying up the underframe:


The zoflora markings are still slightly visible through the 3 layers of bauxide paint so it'll be weathered quite heavily on that side!

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[MrSimon]

If you're doing some as banana vans then you've got scope for variations. If you haven't already, go to the Barrowmore Group site and download BR Diagrams of Freight Stock (1) and see dia. 240 - 243. Notice how the bracing increased on the later builds. The LMS versions (D1660 & D2111) were on 9' w.b. (but 17'6" O.H.) chassis, the first having a rectangular vent towards the top RH of each end (a bit like the Parkwood BR Meat van vents, cut in two) and, as built, no diagonal bracing, though some acquired simple flat riveted strips later. The LMS refrigerated vans D1672 were the same basic body again, but with roof mounted hatches, again 9' w.b.The LNER ventilated refrigerated vans were on both wood and steel 9' w.b. 17' 6" O.H. chassis having ladders, a step and vents on the ends and hatches on the roof - same basic sides though! Their version of the banana vans were on 10' w.b. wooden or, later, steel chassis. These had vents both sides of each end, flush about half-way up.So, you could detail/convert several of these wagons and easily have ten different!

 

Hi Bernard, are you able to point me in the right direction for pictures of the LNER or LMS ventilated refrigerated vans? I'd like to do one with a roof hatch, but I'm not sure what it should look like - would it be anything like the roof hatches on the old Farish NE bogie fish van? I've done two different designs of banana van now, and have another planned, but need a few "white vans" for Stamford East...

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Simon

[BernardTPM]

I'll see what I can find!

[MrSimon]

That would be brilliant! I suddenly remembered Paul Bartlett's site and was delighted to find it didn't dissapear when fotopic went, but I can't find many banana/insulated vans... amazing site though!

[millerhillboy]

Simon

Just catching up with your workbench and I notice you are playing with staples for lamp irons.

 

I used to play about with drilling the footplates but found I just went through drills like crazy (how you managed to do those boilerside handrails with one drill is beyond me!!).

 

Anyway, I've started to prefer using the N-Brass lamp irons these days, much less hassle and I think they do look OK.

 

[MrSimon]

Hi! Those N Brass ones look really good, I'll have to see about ordering some. The staples were more a free experiment after reading about them in Nspirations - but now I've started looking at all the other kettles that don't have them and looking at the stapler and my still unbroken drill bit - could be dangerous! Which make are the vac pipes?

 

Thanks

 

Simon

[millerhillboy]

Hi! Those N Brass ones look really good, I'll have to see about ordering some. The staples were more a free experiment after reading about them in Nspirations - but now I've started looking at all the other kettles that don't have them and looking at the stapler and my still unbroken drill bit - could be dangerous! Which make are the vac pipes?

 

Thanks

 

Simon

 

I think I drilled an A3 footplate or two and decided it wasn't for me!! I was just using drill after drill (if you know of any stronger drills then please let me know :-) ).

 

The N-Brass lamp irons are pretty cheap too and you get loads on a sprue.

I need to go through my stock and do them to all actually, they do look OK, certainly better than nothing.

 

The pipes are possibly Farish, maybe Dapol (sorry not a good answer) . You used to be able to buy pipe/snowplough kits from Dapols website, don't know if you still can.

I just collect pipes from the little bags as and when they come in now, so I've just got a pipe scrapbox now that I just lift things out of as and when required.

 

They are handy for diesels too, here's one I did earlier (true Blue Peter style) using Dapol ploughs off their hymek plus a selection of pipes from both Farish and Dapol.

 

PS don't ask what headcode 1B29 is? Its wrong and needs changing

[MrSimon]

I've got lods of little 'pipe packs' from various bits and bobs and never thought to stick them on other things! There's my week sorted hehe I would never have noticed that the heacode is wrong, I only know 1 means express then the rest is a mystery to me, but the loco looks really good. What did you use for the greasy black paint on the buffer heads? 90p for a load of lamp irons is a bargain - do they involve any drilling? Dad has loads of un-ironed kettles that need them.

 

Whisper it, but I managed to get enough of my "steam chores" done today to do some more work on those MK2s from page 1, including my first attempt at cutting out the bits under the doors - pictures to follow (maybe in the morning if its too dark to take decent pics when its all back together)

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[millerhillboy]

N-Brass lamp irons just require bending (magnifying glass required) and securing, no drilling required.

 

Buffer gunk is just matt black paint applied randomly which just ended up in quite a nice effect luckily.

[MrSimon]

The matt black looks good - I'll have to give it a go!

I've had a bit of a lazy week so far - had to move a shed so no time for important modelling Last week my dad sent me some Peco Iron Ore tipplers to build, they went together in about 5 minutes so I didn't put them on here, then I realised that they were to run with the 15 pristine Farish tipplers he also has which all need weathering to look prototypical... don't you just hate it when a small job gets bigger? I hit the books to see what work was needed to get them looking good and had to tke a lie down.

First job I thought would be to give some of the wagons patch repairs. From what I can tell this is where they welded a sheet of new metal over a badly rusted bit and painted it, and they usually weren't the same size as the panel they were welded onto - out came the plasticard and I gave it a go and if I say so myself it looked good... until I painted it and realised the plasticard was thicker than the ribs on the wagon, so off they came again Next up I tried a bit of fine-grained paper, and used contacta to stick it on (because paper contacta'd on to plastic had worked really well on Gresby when I've used it. Here was the result:


I just couldn't get it to stay on - but then I had a brain wave... Pritt Stick! And it worked:


Now all thats left is paint, some rusty bits, then transfers, varnish, more rust and weathering, a bit more varnish and then a dust of weathering powders... and then the same again for 21 more wagons.

I also did some work on the MK2s, here is the first attempt at the under-door gaps:


I opened up the one on the right slightly more, and the one on the left is slightly too big. These coaches are also my first go with frame dirt paint, I think some powders are the way forward from here, for a spot of brake dust... and the roofs need sticking back down


I declassified the first and did under its doors, and it looks OK - just need to neaten up around the strips a bit and then put transfers on - but I'm quite happy with how this ones turned out


The Mk2a took a bit of wrestling to get to bits, I'd glued it together pretty well when I first rebuilt it - but I couldn't have an odd one out in the rake could I?


This is as far as I've got with it, I've been putting off making steps but its all thats left to do before I touch up the paint and put it back together.

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

A little package of goodies arrived yesterday from N Brass, which contained some lamp irons to try out, some container securing chains to try out and coupling hooks and vacuum pipes for the Crab.

The lamp irons eventually went on OK after I found some more sturdy tweezers, but I'm not sure whether they're more or less fiddly than drilling staples in... and looking at the front of this standard tank I need to get the flash off them somehow also, I need to tidy up the buffers.



The coupling hooks went onto the Crab just fine, although it was hard work getting them off the sprue - now all I need is to find out how they were mounted on the back of a fowler tender... anyone know?



I've still not plucked up the courage to manufacture the steps for that Mark 2a, but I will!

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[millerhillboy]

Hi Simon

 

When working with the N-Brass lamp irons, I try and get them in a vice or strong pair of flat nose pliers, I get them into position and then hold tight, and at the same time bending the bit required to form the L shape. After a bit of practise I can just about do it most of the time, did take practise though.

 

In terms of getting rid of the bits of flash I do that under a magnifying glass with a brand new scalpel blade, before I carry out the bending process.

 

First couple of times I used the N-Brass lamp irons I got the same effect, looked pretty much OK until observed under harsh photography conditions.

 

Also somebody does nice brass oval shaped buffers that suit the 4MT just lovely. Can't for the life of me remember, but they were an improvement on the standard offering. Well worth it.

Tihink it was someone via the NGS shop actually, I believe you recently joined?

[MrSimon]

I think I've seen the buffers you mean in the NGS shop, or N Brass do some quite good ones that i've used before - will have a look and get some ordered! I've been in the NGS for years, but I usually model Modern Image so have never really looked at the steam-ish products... its about time I started I'll see what I can do with the flash - maybe just a quick tickle with the file?

[MrSimon]

Hi,

 

I gave "a quick tickle with the file" a go and nothing happened, so I decided to try gently taking them off and they came off with most of the bufferbeam paint. And then I lost one. So it wasn't the most successful modelling session, but I cleaned up the flash on the two I didn't loose and made sure I cut the new one off cleanly and the were reattached and have been painted - all in all the class 4's getting a lot more work than I'd originally planned, so I might see about re-numbering it now!

 

In the post today were the transfers for the banana vans and some conflats, and a society Lowmac kit. I need to have a look through my old 2mm stuff, because I'm sure I read about these also being suitable to be a Great Central/LNER design, but I'm probably mistaken. And if I start on those transfers tonight I've must transfer the Mark 2s and a pair of RMC hoppers I've been meaning to finish since I was in Helsinki.

 

Its all go here!

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

I am alive and until yesterday I have done precisely nothing. I didn't do any more work on the class 4 tank because my Dad told me that it was probably for sale and I should probably have experimented with N Brass lamp irons on a different loco... so some lucky punter might be able to get their hands on a MrSimon original, and I'm glad I didn't re-number it! Yesterday I leapt in to action when I realised that Grantham show is only 2 weeks away, with The N Gauge show the week after and I needed to get some stock ready for both shows!

First up, for Leamington a Midland 25ft meat/milk van (with a general van and a pair of 6 wheel coaches to follow) from the shoebox of doom. So far I've only done the inner layer, mainly because I wanted it to set before putting the outer skin on, and also because I'm not mad keen on pre-grouping stuff or brass it looks a bit ropey at the moment, but I'm pretty sure it'll look better soon:


It came with an etched chassis, but I used a Farish Brake van chassis instead - so I can guarantee better running on Parnham's which has very tight corners at the ends.

Next up is a Chiver's Finelines LNER Long CCT which I made ages ago and put in my Dad's stock boxes for Farndon road and the sides bowed inwards. I thought it should probably be refurbished and have the Peco uncoupling doodah added so it can be used on Stamford East at Grantham Show. I took the roof off and added side to side bracing in thick plasticard, which seems to have cured the bow, I altered the roof so it fits better, put on a new vent to replaced a lost one, eased the underframe to allow the wheels to turn and chastised my dad for not taking better care of it! The underframe got a coat of Phoenix Frame Dirt (my new favourite thing) and the whole van will be weathered enough to hide the wobbly lining...

The other project on the workbench came about slightly by accident, the other night I was at the club room reading the Tony Wright coaches book and I found the paragraphs near the end about N Gauge, one of which mentioned altering an old style Farish generic big four non corridor coach into a passable LMS period 2 non-corridor coach with an Ultima roof. I cast my mind to the contents of the shoebox of doom and realised that I'd moved house with 5 such roofs five times and I probably aught to use them. Then it came to my attention (via Dad) that we didn't have any push-pull coaches for Stamford East so the passenger service would probably have to be run with 108s I suddenly thought "Aha!" and raided the un-raked coaches box and pulled this badboy out:


A fairly standard Farish non-corridor brake, in a bsic version of BR maroon, with pizza-cutter wheels. I found a white metal driving coach end on my Dad's shelf (which I'm hoping wasn't meant for another project) and got cracking with it:


The new end fit quite well, but it'll need a bit of filling and filing. I filed 0.5mm from the top of the coach, and cut the replacement roof to length and filed quite a lot of it away so it matched the profile of the end, but its a massive improvement:


The plastic end will need a bit of filling, as will both ends on the full 3rd I did at the same time:


I'm in two minds about fitting door handles to it, I think it'll look better with them but I don't think I'd have the coaches ready in time for the show. Maybe I could add them later? I've got some plasticard footboards ready to fit but I'm not doing it until the roof is fitted and filled.

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[PGN]

I like that Midland van of yours, S!

[MrSimon]

Thanks PGN! I'm hoping it'll turn out OK - hopfully it'll be finished in time for Leamington along with some other Midland Goodies! I'm looking forward to seeing how you progress with the N Brass kit you've got on your workbench (because I'll be interested to watch the J6 afterwards!)

Hello everybody!

Last night was the dreaded 'tranfers night' for all the goods stock going to Grantham Show on Saturday, and I finally finished off the first five banana vans:


I've weathered them now and finished that roof off and they're being delivered to their owner this afternoon.


I made versions of two different diagrams, these might make an appearance at on Stamford East at Grantham Model Railway Exhibition this weekend - but if not they'll be on Farndon Road at Bingham Model Railway Club Exhibition in April


The first Lowmac I've ever made. I didn't transfer it, but when I work out which is the right transfer pack I'll get some more kits and transfer this one when I do the others. This will run unladen until I find a 1950's/60's tractor or piece of Farm Machinery to go on it.


I transfered and weathered these conflats that have been knocking aorund the stockbox unpainted for years, and when I got the bits for the crab from N Brass I bought some 'Container fixing chains' for them:


I've got no idea how/where to fit them though... hmmm. Anyone know?

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited December 16, 2018 by MrSimon

[BernardTPM]

As ever, Paul Bartlett's site can help http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brconflata

[Steadfast]

Lovely stuff Simon, I've been following the thread silently for a while.

Who makes the Lowmac kit? I could do with one for Baby Laira

 

jo

[MrSimon]

Hi Jo

 

The Lowmac kit is a N Gauge Society kit, it went together quite well although its not as freewheeling as I thought it would be, but it ran OK when tested today. I've put your new thread on to watch, as soon as the next few weeks of exhibitions are out the way I'll be back on the Modern Image and working on Gresby

 

Thanks Bernard, I don't know why I always forget about Paul Bartlett's site - and as usual it has the answers! I think it was the thinner chain that confused me

 

Somehow I came out of this afternoon's session with another 10 wagons to paint and transfer by Saturday morning - but nothing as exciting as a banana van...

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon