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Mr Simon's N and 2mm Workbench - pg29> N V1 2-6-2, 2mm L&Y class 23, assorted wagons and stuff


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On 30/08/2021 at 23:09, MrSimon said:

Hello everybody!

 

I thought I’d had a reasonably prolific summer

of modelli

This weekend I built a Fencehouses Jinty chassis, it needs a little fettling to bring the front wheel under the front splasher (and I’ve got a motor on the way) - like the 4F it’s just cosmetic work remaining once it’s motorised.  
 

FA782359-F6BC-4D5F-809F-FEC8DCAC93FA.jpeg.f7e8cfc814ca842839696a2003502630.jpeg

Gave me chance to do Cif+Drill which is my favourite part of 2mm chassis building.

 

 

Finally I 

 

Lots to do!

Simon

Hello Simon,

 

It might be best to put the non-flute end of the drill in the axle muff unless you really want to open out the bearing hole in the frame.

 

Nigel Hunt

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Hi Nigel,

 

No word of a lie, I didn’t think of putting the bit in the other way round (or even using a length of axle) so I ran the drill backwards :blush:… I thought it might at least have been the reason I had a wheel slightly loose on the axle until I glued it - but it was a different axle!

 

Lesson learned for the next chassis :D

 

Cheers

Simon

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  • MrSimon changed the title to Mr Simon's N and 2mm Workbench - pg29> N V1 2-6-2, 2mm L&Y class 23, assorted wagons and stuff

Hello everybody,

 

I’ve had a bit of a finishing off week this week, before a few weekend trips out to train shows this month.

 

Firstly after a midweek modelling session three more wagons finished:

 

A59596A7-071D-4C79-A9DF-5F963EC3C055.jpeg.4b4439169904bd1b29544b855f17ab1c.jpeg

This was a simple re-wheel, a bit of weathering and new couplings.  I still need to fit lamps and a guard (when I work out where it’s going, etc.) but it’s as good as done.

 

Second, a second Farish PO conversion and I finished off the LMS van I tried to put on the wrong chassis on page 27…

 

43E7268B-19E3-4C1E-B87E-3EF0BE7C17A8.jpeg.4ee57361a33b8e6395eece66dd298b82.jpeg

I left the van looking either relatively new or relatively recently painted, and the PO was orange…

 

F78FD1DF-2A28-4FB8-8AF3-C8DDDAD1C8B3.jpeg.31dcff8bdc65c8152ab7bacf9aa2c283.jpeg

A package came from N Brass this week so I could sort out the coal area on the 4F. The Farish one-pice shiny removable load just wasn’t doing it for me…. So here’s the new coal space with some bits of plasticard I found on my desk (it fits over the chip etc if I ever join the dark side…)

 

60B3A17C-9600-4E54-BB8D-06E2AC79FFE7.jpeg.a27fe1ebad958593da23b7633bf8b902.jpeg

After I painted the rough shape and vents I blobbed varnish and coal in until I was happy with how it looks - the look I was aiming for was of an engine that’s been coaled but not stopped to push the coal forward yet.

 

F12B87AE-6DE8-4AAF-8E57-EB6EFD739DF9.jpeg.078f65cff4a8aa7ca0bc2930dae74218.jpeg

1FF8293B-4DCD-4330-AC87-15CBAF4A5619.jpeg.a0a2ffda9a89378c37233e46536e9702.jpeg

8E9F621D-3FF2-45DF-B77C-4902E9B23C5D.jpeg.ad4337e7902bf49ad0c688529f10f787.jpeg

Jobs left to do include lamps (although not until I know what train it’s running), re-blackening the tender handrail, building and fitting a replacement accelerator (I don’t think that’s the correct name for the thing I caught with the soldering iron), and I might weather the tender a little dirtier…

 

I’m happy with how it looks, it runs well and it’s my second complete 2mm engine - plenty more in the pipeline!

 

Lots to do,

Simon

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Hi Duncan,

 

I just got a pair of tender vents from N Brass (part 23196), the new false bottom is plasticard and the hook/vac pipe came with the engine - then it was just a bit of coal and paint.

 

Looking forward to seeing what you do with yours!

 

Simon

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Hello everybody,

 

Over the weekend the four-car 108 had its first trip out for an exhibition at Aldershot, ran more or less faultlessly all weekend once it was warmed up:

 

D8EB945F-D594-49CE-9773-76865C4C1567.jpeg.63bdae4cb1ea48f42fd6808fb44c27ae.jpeg

 

8F83BD76-F460-4924-8E6C-1866D1000553.jpeg.c981bf7496fd505baea5819e27fb2dcd.jpeg

It might need some slight tweaks to the CVs so it doesn’t coast/take as long to accelerate, but nothing urgent.

 

042DBEF2-FA7A-4250-BA6E-B6BD9B13568C.jpeg.2afdff9444720ffed9b449ab6e9abc84.jpeg

On Sunday afternoon as we started to put the trains away I took the opportunity to run the 101 as a four-car unit, it normally only runs as a eight car formation.

 

2A153745-5715-4C0E-8C22-FBA73F076B14.jpeg.6ce625fcfc79bcd520adab278b040b18.jpeg

Finally, it was good to be able to rummage around a scrap box, £10 for this, I’ve got some donor sides in the draw - might be a buffet, maybe a restaurant - we’ll see!

 

The v3 came back with me to have the wiring sorted - all the wires from the chip need shortening, it runs slightly too well to worry about fitting stayalive.  It’ll be a good opportunity to see if the chimney first running issue can be sorted…

 

Lots to do!
Simon

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everybody,

 

Quick modern project finished:

 

739A7169-DF74-46E7-9BC2-4BA3D206AF15.jpeg.c82f2c16d0ba8d301934338961411ff1.jpeg

Another tanker conversion - I’ve had the detailing kit on my desk for quite a while and the tanker fell on me the other day so I finally got on with it (literally fell on my face from the cupboard of doom)

 

Its the standard TPM detailing kit with new NGS bogies. This one was harder than the others because a) I wanted to keep the livery (all others in the rake are complete repaints, and I could paint over every time I went wrong) and b) Farish seemed to have made this in the glossiest plastic paint ever, so it was hard to work with.

 

E4989640-2649-405A-9C4B-E62F84C68B78.jpeg.965be6ba0a251e3b30880221ca2961f9.jpeg

CE26A663-C38D-4531-8615-19DC4F17FF22.jpeg.0f3a7ee6bc08f2751fc697f559767a98.jpeg

After three coats of matt spray I’m happy with how it came out. Now to test it in the rake (who am I kidding, I know it will work I just want to play)

 

7EF3C0C4-04CF-437C-A9AF-3515F4CA59B6.jpeg.11919ea70a4c28fa67eb1a7f0c363f88.jpeg

I picked up a cheap GBRF 66, my other one is dead.  I got the dead one out to donate parts and discovered the engine drawer had magically fixed it, so now I have a renumbering job on my list…


Slowly getting through the last mass of ‘live projects’ so I can start something new!

 

Lots to do

Simon

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Hello all,

 

This weekend I planned to get re-started on scenic bits for Gresby… so instead I did a bit more work on the Tipplers that have been on here for the last few years (to clear space you understand…)

 

2F22D9A1-2ACF-46A4-A0DD-C862ACBFC864.jpeg.ef8e3b974155ae655b3fbe167836dc4f.jpeg

First, orange ends on 14 wagons. They’d all had at least one coat already but this time they had a slightly faded coat mixed in with a hint of rail grey to show fading.  The 7 on the right were faded slightly more than the 7 on the left.

 

AE5BE903-C508-4AD7-B164-43135FDF9E93.jpeg.8bb8f96700c51bccb809fdace131e646.jpeg

Next (one of the reasons why they’ve taken so long) I had another go at the grey.  The previous go I’d had, on the right of the wagon, was far too white.  I’m happy with the latest version, which is a mix of Executive Grey and Railfreight Grey (a  change from the Rail Grey I’d used on the first attempt).

 

Finally today I painted the bogies and underframes:

 

199B2996-45B5-4D85-8A21-0A9E1DD5DEA4.jpeg.d42e54e9b2559769b1a2c776a51b8557.jpeg

The body paints have dried slightly glossy, which I hope is glossy enough for the transfers.  Next job is the transfers which true to form I’ll put off as long as possible….

 

Total work on Gresby scenery: Nil.  Lots to do!

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

I had a few new arrivals over the last month, so instead of doing any modelling I had a session on the floor with the unitrack.  It’s split over two sessions so there are a few continuity issues…

 

Also, I gave the newly detailed tanker a run (because paint needs test running) and realised I had 16 tankers… it was a surprise!  There are two left to weather (but I think I’ve got detailing bits and bogies for one more…)


A63CE359-2F81-4642-9BD9-48A812B44133.jpeg.63016a2478b9dacfcb7e73cc503713f3.jpeg

One of the new arrivals - ideal for Gresby!

 

Lots to do! 
Simon

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello everybody!

 

Despite having a week on the scenery I seem to have done a lot of soldering…

 

8094B02B-2DED-41D6-8343-6A6AD5A43AD1.jpeg.77b281a1d095f7840b4fe202dab02349.jpeg

First, I fitted the brakes to the Jinty chassis.  Once the solder hardened (I don’t know if that’s a thing but I always let it set) I cut the wires joining the halves of the chassis, and it still runs!  The chassis is now complete except for the paint, which is next.

 

This year I decided to start a new 2mm loco every time I finish a chassis, so I started this following the completion of the 4F:

 

87A94B68-93D0-4C2F-94D1-4806472BBFC7.jpeg.c29572715f6a3854954a4af9c7ac8d2b.jpeg

It’s a Nigel Hunt Dapol 262 tank chassis.  Here’s the outside of the frames cleaned up

 

27F8DD3B-7B22-4023-A419-23195F0AF52D.jpeg.86a8803a50db2a730219c3f6702f5296.jpeg

The inside, which always looks messy. The PCBs are strange shapes to clear the bearings and the brake holes

 

9FFAE2F6-A122-4A9C-9C22-FEC59BF3E637.jpeg.abaf8de1e5158c89ff2afddb07f61242.jpeg

The basic chassis in one piece.  Three chassis ago this was a really scary process getting a chassis this far - this time wasn’t daunting, but having read the instructions this is going to be a learning curve!!

 

While I had the soldering iron out I made a wagon chassis:

 

DB69169D-9957-4FAD-A1F2-E56E8D50E1B5.jpeg.a565ca9eab4f565fc6bbd24baf54d157.jpeg

This Farish fish van had seen service on an exhibition layout or two, but has now been retired (mostly due to its agricultural couplings…)

 

BD78CDE6-569F-431F-A4AD-7D942102BAE5.jpeg.9e66b5fee47b01c3acbac38e78d75aa2.jpeg

So it received an etched chassis, fitted with wooden solebars.  I’ve just noticed I need to wrap the arm around the vac cylinder, and the prototype pics I’ve seen show I need to put some sort of backing behind the louvres to give a sort of double layer…

 

There’s another wagon chassis waiting for all the parts I forgot to order, I’ll show you next time

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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15 hours ago, MrSimon said:

Hello everybody!

 

Despite having a week on the scenery I seem to have done a lot of soldering…

 

8094B02B-2DED-41D6-8343-6A6AD5A43AD1.jpeg.77b281a1d095f7840b4fe202dab02349.jpeg

First, I fitted the brakes to the Jinty chassis.  Once the solder hardened (I don’t know if that’s a thing but I always let it set) I cut the wires joining the halves of the chassis, and it still runs!  The chassis is now complete except for the paint, which is next.

 

This year I decided to start a new 2mm loco every time I finish a chassis, so I started this following the completion of the 4F:

 

87A94B68-93D0-4C2F-94D1-4806472BBFC7.jpeg.c29572715f6a3854954a4af9c7ac8d2b.jpeg

It’s a Nigel Hunt Dapol 262 tank chassis.  Here’s the outside of the frames cleaned up

 

27F8DD3B-7B22-4023-A419-23195F0AF52D.jpeg.86a8803a50db2a730219c3f6702f5296.jpeg

The inside, which always looks messy. The PCBs are strange shapes to clear the bearings and the brake holes

 

9FFAE2F6-A122-4A9C-9C22-FEC59BF3E637.jpeg.abaf8de1e5158c89ff2afddb07f61242.jpeg

The basic chassis in one piece.  Three chassis ago this was a really scary process getting a chassis this far - this time wasn’t daunting, but having read the instructions this is going to be a learning curve!!

 

Simon,

 

Perhaps worth seeing if the crosshead now available from N Brass that Nigel was involved in the development of works with this chassis? My brother Andy has done one of these and used channel section plus the supplied etch bits - quite fiddly! Nick Mitchell's article in the 2mm Magazine some years ago is also worth a look.

 

Simon

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Thanks Simon!

 

I’ve gone onto the members area and found the article - impressive and simultaneously terrifying modelling there!!  I’m looking forward to getting stuck in to it!  It’ll be interesting to see if I can swap out the front bearings for ones not filed flush without breaking the chassis apart, as that was the first thing I read in the article where I’ve done different (and having seen the pictures in the article I can see why leaving the front bearing not-flush with the frame is a good idea)

 

Is this the crosshead?  n52005crossheadhweb.gif
 

I need to turn down the bits of rod before I get as far as the cross head…

 

Thanks again

Simon

Edited by MrSimon
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1 hour ago, MrSimon said:

Thanks Simon!

 

I’ve gone onto the members area and found the article - impressive and simultaneously terrifying modelling there!!  I’m looking forward to getting stuck in to it!  It’ll be interesting to see if I can swap out the front bearings for ones not filed flush without breaking the chassis apart, as that was the first thing I read in the article where I’ve done different (and having seen the pictures in the article I can see why leaving the front bearing not-flush with the frame is a good idea)

 

Is this the crosshead?  n52005crossheadhweb.gif
 

I need to turn down the bits of rod before I get as far as the cross head…

 

Thanks again

Simon

 

I was thinking of 23217 which is a cast crosshead rather than the crosshead strip you've shown there.

 

Simon

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1 hour ago, MrSimon said:

Thanks Simon!

 

I’ve gone onto the members area and found the article - impressive and simultaneously terrifying modelling there!!  I’m looking forward to getting stuck in to it!  It’ll be interesting to see if I can swap out the front bearings for ones not filed flush without breaking the chassis apart, as that was the first thing I read in the article where I’ve done different (and having seen the pictures in the article I can see why leaving the front bearing not-flush with the frame is a good idea)

 

You don't necessarily need to take the bearings out. You can just use the muffs to limit sideplay. If the inner face of the bearings and the ends of the muffs are smooth and square then you can achieve essentially no sideplay without issues. That's how I've done the front axles on my Jubilees.

 

Simon

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16 hours ago, MrSimon said:

Thanks Simon!

 

I’  It’ll be interesting to see if I can swap out the front bearings for ones not filed flush without breaking the chassis apart, as that was the first thing I read in the article where I’ve done different (and having seen the pictures in the article I can see why leaving the front bearing not-flush with the frame is a good idea)

 

 

Thanks again

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

If you ever need to remove bearings from frames, then try this. Hold a wooden skewer sharp end upwards in a vise, hold the bearing in the frame down over the skewer, then press down on the frame next to the bearing with your soldering iron. The bearing should soon release. I agree with Simon G about using the muff to limit sideplay. Good luck with this - looking good so far.

 

Nigel Hunt

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Hi Nigel,

 

Thanks for the tip - I’m going to go with the muff method to keep the front driver in line (but I’ve made a note for my next chassis about not smoothing the bearings until I know where the valve gear is going…)

 

Would the cast cross head Simon’s mentioned work on the Ivatt?  Also, I can’t find motion pins in the association shop, so these come from somewhere else these days?

 

Many thanks 

Simon

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25 minutes ago, MrSimon said:

Hi Nigel,

 

Also, I can’t find motion pins in the association shop, so these come from somewhere else these days?

 

Many thanks 

Simon

 

Sadly the motion pins have not been available for some time now. As a result its generally recommended to use something like 0.3mm nickel silver wire. The attached extracts from the Association's Black 5 kit should help with how to do it.

 

PAGE 10.pdfPIC PAGE 7.pdf

Also refer to Nick's Jubilee videos (part 31 looks like a good place to start) 

http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/jubilee/pt5.html

 

Simon

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On 13/11/2021 at 22:36, MrSimon said:

Hi Nigel,

 

Thanks for the tip - I’m going to go with the muff method to keep the front driver in line (but I’ve made a note for my next chassis about not smoothing the bearings until I know where the valve gear is going…)

 

Would the cast cross head Simon’s mentioned work on the Ivatt?  Also, I can’t find motion pins in the association shop, so these come from somewhere else these days?

 

Many thanks 

Simon

Hello Simon,

 

The item Simon G mentioned is the one you need. Assembly of the valve gear without motion pins is as SG's Black 5 extract.

 

Regards,

 

Nigel Hunt

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  • 1 month later...

Hello everybody!

 

It’s been a while since I updated this, I thought much more recently than this… obviously Covid has sent work crazy and the modelling time/brain space I’ve had has been mostly spent on the buildings for Gresby…

 

There have been some bits of progress though:

 

F775E8B3-AB59-42F9-9BD9-52AA55772BDA.jpeg.caf1258d338c6aac9a8d5fd7e6b49fab.jpeg

Two finished 2mm wagons - a LNER 6 plank wagon and a conversion of a PO wagon.  I’m not sure whether to give the PO a bit more weathering, and I need to run over the LNER wagon with a light dusting.

 

B48313C6-9FC1-4E7C-B98B-9C5BCDFD6592.jpeg.13c568c927d7f6366bdc898fcea7460c.jpeg

This is reaching the final sprint!  I need to do the detail painting and add transfers to the lower half of the body.  The other end wagon is also progressing but I’m not sure if I’ve got the etch right/neat.  I’ll weather them as a 5 in approximately 19 years when I’ve built the other three.

 

1A73ADB3-E9A9-408E-A8B3-20F5D8A3D6CE.jpeg.594340149cf4c3013e9e335d8150862d.jpeg

A quick job on my first day off for Christmas - I made a CT dummy from two units that need repairing.  These have had the Tomix coupling fitted so they can run with a 156/153.

 

5C12307B-1D58-4043-B8B7-391C915ABF81.jpeg.2810c26f6f12923b6ba69e1a370281e8.jpeg

My present to myself was a non-running 142 from Hattons second hand.  It needed a new gear (right) as seen here with the new gear (left) for comparison.  It runs ok now and I’m just thinking about repainting options…

 

C25F078E-3852-402F-B238-85F3F80C125D.jpeg.455aec0824647468b2799cdc0ab42603.jpeg

Talking of repainting 142s, I’ve made a start on the Merseyrail one that came in the autumn.  First up I’ve painted out the printed on destination panels and glossed the panels where the new transfers are going.  Later jobs will include painting dirt onto the chassis and repainting the roof to correct the shape around the cab front.

 

01D5F8AD-6375-49EF-8305-C015DBA40CBB.jpeg.99960f64959aba7f8dce3e5de3395ad6.jpeg

Finally I’ve fitted straps, transferred and weathered this, it’s the last one to be treated:

 

0A447787-3DCB-4EA3-9E0E-0C393A74BF2D.jpeg.8fc033432f9397edd7b457fe826d6bf7.jpeg

Now the full train has had straps fitted to hold the big pipes down, and the bogie wagons have all been repainted, transferred and weathered.  The gap above is for the last unbuilt kit then that’s the train ready for service.

 

Lots to do!  Happy New Year everyone!!

Simon

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