Les1952 Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 Getting the 4MT to run without locking up every time it comes within half a mile of a speck of dust is going to be fun. Farish reckoned they didn't have lockup problems with tender drives- which presumably is why they moved to putting the motor in the engine....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted July 13, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2020 Haha well unless I can get the wheels turning on the Scott it will be going 2mm much earlier than I’d anticipated - bit of an extreme candidate for 3rd engine for a shunting plank! Hello everybody! Lots of little bitty things happening over the last two weeks, firstly I started finishing the class 108: I wasn’t happy with some bits of the rushed paint job I gave it before Leamington, and in hindsight I’m glad I didn’t get the transfers on before the show. All eight bogies painted at once... I got slightly distracted by the arrival of some more shortened couplings from Shapeways - they came 3 weeks earlier than I’d been expecting. I set to work fitting them to my Farish mark 3 rake. I also marshalled the rake so no more coaches need to loose their buffers. Some coaches will only run in the west coast formation of this train, only the ones without buffers will run with the HST powercars. Next I decided to give the shirt couplings a test in the HAA train. I’d used them successfully with the Farish 15ft wagons but not Minitrix ones - they’re tricky to change couplings, I’ve no idea how they were originally fitted! A short coupling on each end brought the gap down to 2mm, but I’m going to stick with one normal and one short on each wagon so I don’t have to demolish both coupling boxes on each wagon. There goes the resale value! I’m going to look into making some sort of representation of the hopper gear to go on the bottom of each wagon - there’s nothing there at the moment. It’s long term but on the Trello... Of course I took a video... This week the track had slightly tighter than normal curves to test out the shorter + shorter couplings on the minitrix hoppers in case making the conversion prevented their use on Gresby. The initial testing was with 8 wagons so if there were problems with the rear 4 wagons (the ones I had altered) I could see if it was the definitely the couplings and not something else. It seems strange seeing a single class 20... The mark 3s also behaved, but the Dapol hoppers didn’t. I’m not sure if a bit of liquid glaze to stop the couplings bobbing up and down is the answer. Anyway, lots to do! Simon 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I have a feeling Minitrix used some kind of heat welding to fix their coupling pockets; I'm sure it would be impossible to mould them as they are! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted July 15, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2020 Is that what it is? I was looking for a way in an saw two really fine lines and though “that’s a really well-fitting join on such an old model” so I pulled it and there was a snapping noise And then I thought “oh well, 25 left to go!” In other news this turned up today: Great model, I’m researching to see if I can justify a teak one too...! Lots to do Simon 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted July 18, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 18, 2020 Hello everybody! After 4 weeks of putting the Portabrook 47 in the sun every time it was out to try and bleach the yellow’d varnish. It didn’t work, so I gently rubbed it back. Today I weathered the roof and then streaked some down the side and wiped it off. I had a slight panic at the start when I found out how much iron red was left in the weathering brush from when I did the tipplers... but I think I saved it! Here it is ready for varnishing. Front Train end Full body. I’m in two minds about giving the body sides a coat of clear just to give it a ‘washed sheen’ but the roof is fine. Once it’s all set I need to clean the wheels and give it a run! The only thing left to do is to make a long distance fuel tank, but that can wait for later... but now it’s time to choose a new loco upgrade/repaint! Lots to do Simon 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted August 31, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 31, 2020 Hello everybody! After six weeks away from the workbench I would have eased myself back in with something easy; maybe finished off something I’d started before the break... but not this time! Another 2mm scale chassis! Not the prettiest bit of soldering you’ll ever see... Here’s the inside of one of the frames with the bearings and bits of PCB stuck on I need to sort out my workbench, it’s not the easiest thing to solder chassis stretchers on. Maybe some space for a vice and stuff... When I get the chassis into the jig I’ll be able to straighten these out. I’m not going to join the two sides until I’ve given it a go over with the multimeter as I’m not completely sure I didn’t accidentally bridge the insulation. It doesn’t look massively straight at the moment but that’s because it’s only really held in place by the jig. I’m waiting for a few bits to turn up in the post for this too... I’ll get started with the body soon - can anyone guess what it is yet? Lots to do! Simon 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted September 2, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 2, 2020 On 31/08/2020 at 19:30, MrSimon said: Hello everybody! After six weeks away from the workbench I would have eased myself back in with something easy; maybe finished off something I’d started before the break... but not this time! Another 2mm scale chassis! Not the prettiest bit of soldering you’ll ever see... Here’s the inside of one of the frames with the bearings and bits of PCB stuck on I need to sort out my workbench, it’s not the easiest thing to solder chassis stretchers on. Maybe some space for a vice and stuff... When I get the chassis into the jig I’ll be able to straighten these out. I’m not going to join the two sides until I’ve given it a go over with the multimeter as I’m not completely sure I didn’t accidentally bridge the insulation. It doesn’t look massively straight at the moment but that’s because it’s only really held in place by the jig. I’m waiting for a few bits to turn up in the post for this too... I’ll get started with the body soon - can anyone guess what it is yet? Lots to do! Simon I know what its supposed to be for as its one of my chassis kits. Looking good so far, get in touch if you have any queries. Regards, Nigel Hunt 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted September 13, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 13, 2020 (edited) On 02/09/2020 at 12:15, Nig H said: I know what its supposed to be for as its one of my chassis kits. Looking good so far, get in touch if you have any queries. Regards, Nigel Hunt Thanks Nigel - it’s been fun so far but has hit a bit of a delay waiting for a multimeter to turn up so I can test it before soldering the two halves together. Will definitely ask if I get stuck - I’ve got a pretty long wish list of your kits so I’m keen to get this first one working well ) I’m going to make a start on the body next week then everyone will know - hopefully the meter will come too so it can be running by Christmas. Hello everybody! There’s been a bit more 2mm work going on this weekend. First up, I attached couplings to a J94 with turned down wheels I bought on eBay as a spare loco. Obviously I took some short clips of me messing around with the delayed action couplings: This has now gone into works to have the RT Modes detailing kit fitted. Like a fool I started filing out the bunker which in hindsight wasn’t the best idea.. but it’ll be fine! This weekend I decided to batch build some wagons. I chose three chassis out of the 2mm tin: Two LNER plate wagons and a Southern BY (passenger brake) I made the plate wagons first after abandoning batch building as soon as I’d done the bearings. When I reached the stage shown in this picture I should have stopped and filed the ends a little before fitting the buffer beams, as they’re less than 1mm too long (excuse the strange colour, I forgot the bit of white paper and had to correct it) this would be a finished wagon shot but I need to take the buffer beams off, adjust them and then fit the buffers. Also, I think I’m going to start supergluing axle-boxes on, I’ve never soldered one straight! So here are the finished* chassis for 2x LNER fitted plate wagons. One has plates on the axle boxes the other doesn’t. When I get to painting one will be LNER brown and the other BR, for variety. This afternoon I finished the third chassis. I had a bit of a moment last night when I realised BYs and CCTs were different lengths, and I had a CCT to convert... there’s a correct length body on the way. The only thing left to do on this chassis is to build the buffer beams. I can’t quite work out where they should fit so will have to look at the instructions! I’d also like to fit it to the body while I’m at it When I was in the 2mm tin I found these part built. They might need a bit of work! Lots to do! Simon Edited September 13, 2020 by MrSimon Reworded a sentence 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted September 14, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 14, 2020 Hi Simon, You can test for shorts using a DC controller. Just connect the terminals to the frame and then each spacer in turn with the power set high. The red light on my Gaugemaster goes out if there is a short. Regards, Nigel Hunt 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted September 20, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) Thanks Nigel, I spent the week meaning to try it, then the universe got in the way and the meter turned up yesterday. The great news is there weren’t shorts, then I delaminated some three of the PCB tabs and had to do new ones. Its more or less level, but I’ll tweak it a bit when it’s time for wheels. And here we are, ready to prime and paint, then crack on with the next bits. I filed out some of the J94 bunker so it can look a bit more used, and stuck the detailing kit on the back. I’ve got the handrails and the front to sort out. I adjusted the plate wagons, then primed them, and painted everything that will be hard to get at when the wheels are in. They’re currently both on my desk in the first coat of the body colour. I fitted a false floor so you can’t see out the bottom, next I need to paint the underframe and buffers. Then weathering. Lots to do! Simon Edited September 20, 2020 by MrSimon 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted September 22, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 22, 2020 Just a quick progress shot, one in BR and one in LNER bauxide: I’m other news, I ordered a baseboard for a test track/plank for the 2mm. Probably won’t become a thread in its own right, but a bit of it will be photogenic enough to make sure it features in a few pictures on here! Best get back to work! Simon 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 3, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 3, 2020 Hello everybody! I’ve had the 060 chassis is still ready to be primed, but I didn’t do it the other day and it’s rained every day since... no spraying for me I carried on work on the other bits though: Ready for weathering and couplings These just need transfers, weathering and couplings Today I spent most of the afternoon sticking stuff onto the J94: It’s standard Farish (turned down to 2mm) with the RT trains detailing kit, the bufferbeams from the 2mm chassis kit, and handrails and lamp irons from N Brass. Next up is a coat of black and then transfers/weathering. With the weather being how it’s been today I also started these, two are new and one (the upside down one) is a rescue of a chassis I previously put in a sulking box... Lots to do! Simon 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 4, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2020 Hello everybody, Still no spraying weather today so I got the three wagons from yesterday finished: LNER loco coal wagon - this is the one that had been put back in the box after I exploded a whitemetal axle box all over it, then @justin1985 gave me some printed axle boxes which I tried out on this, and they work well. Next for this wagon, priming the chassis, fitting buffers and couplings, paint, transfers, weather, etc. The two I started from scratch (L) LMS unfitted plate wagon and (R) BR Lowfit. These both need the same steps doing to them as the loco coal wagon above, and I need to find a load for the Lowfit. It looks like the wheels are all bunched at one end of the Lowfit but it’s just the angle! I think I’m packing the soldering iron away while I finish these bits off (unless I need to do more soldering on the 060 when I’ve managed to paint it... Lots to do! Simon 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 11, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 11, 2020 Hello everybody! Bit of a strange old week, but I’ve got plenty of little bitty jobs done I weathered and sealed the BY, it just needs the couplings fitting. Next, I primed the 060 chassis with the underframes/wagons I built last weekend. There’s a reason for the weird stripy paint job, I think the next bit of the build includes fitting the wheels, gears/quartering etc, and I’ve decided that once the wheels are on they’re staying on - so I painted behind them dirty black. I’ll paint the rest of the chassis when I’ve fitted the brakes. Transfers for this came this week, unusually for me I fitted them the day they came. This weekend I’ve matt varnished it and painted the deck. I just need to varnish the desk and give the whole body a dab round with some powders and then it’s done - a milestone for me: my first complete 2mm wagon! Like everything else I just need to fit the couplings... These were a pain. These are the replacement steps on the RT Models detailing kit. I need some ceramic tweezers so I don’t solder the step onto the tweezers again. I fitted the steps today. I’m going to solder the steps onto the J94 with the 2mm chassis, the turned down wheels are wider than 2mm ones so I’ve had to fix the steps a bit further out than I’d like. This has now gone to the paintshop - everything below the running plate is drying, I was going to spray it but I can only find grey primer and weird brown (that I bought for trees)... not sure what happened to the black! It’s exciting to think that things are beginning to get finished off Lots to do! Simon 5 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidMcKenzie Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 That BY van at the top of the last post looks brilliant Simon. All the best, Dave 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 12, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2020 Thanks Dave! Here’s the other side: The body/roof is just the standard Dapol model, the only thing I did to it was paint the inside of the windows and the ends with matt varnish, the vacuum pipes with Metalcote gunmetal, and then the whole body had a thick sludge of black weather power caked on and then wiped back off, and some dark earth brushed upwards. Everything below the body is the kit. I just need to make some more vehicles to run with it now, my preferred modelling area is the North West (L&Y and GN) so this vans a little lost! Cheers Simon 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted October 13, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2020 (edited) On 11/10/2020 at 18:35, MrSimon said: Hello everybody! Bit of a strange old week, but I’ve got plenty of little bitty jobs done I weathered and sealed the BY, it just needs the couplings fitting. Next, I primed the 060 chassis with the underframes/wagons I built last weekend. There’s a reason for the weird stripy paint job, I think the next bit of the build includes fitting the wheels, gears/quartering etc, and I’ve decided that once the wheels are on they’re staying on - so I painted behind them dirty black. I’ll paint the rest of the chassis when I’ve fitted the brakes. Transfers for this came this week, unusually for me I fitted them the day they came. This weekend I’ve matt varnished it and painted the deck. I just need to varnish the desk and give the whole body a dab round with some powders and then it’s done - a milestone for me: my first complete 2mm wagon! Like everything else I just need to fit the couplings... These were a pain. These are the replacement steps on the RT Models detailing kit. I need some ceramic tweezers so I don’t solder the step onto the tweezers again. I fitted the steps today. I’m going to solder the steps onto the J94 with the 2mm chassis, the turned down wheels are wider than 2mm ones so I’ve had to fix the steps a bit further out than I’d like. This has now gone to the paintshop - everything below the running plate is drying, I was going to spray it but I can only find grey primer and weird brown (that I bought for trees)... not sure what happened to the black! It’s exciting to think that things are beginning to get finished off Lots to do! Simon Hi Simon, Nice work on the wagons, and the J94 is coming along nicely. Just a couple of points concerning the chassis. Firstly the front guard irons should hang vertically, not at an angle. Secondly you can paint the whole chassis with the top coat before fitting the brake gear. To solder the brake hangers in place, strip the paint off the 0.3mm rod first. Soldering the top end of the brake hangers to these should not damage much of the paintwork nearby and can be touched up when you paint the brake gear. Nigel Hunt Edited October 13, 2020 by Nig H tidying 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 13, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2020 Hi Nigel, Thanks for posting that pic, it’s really useful to see what I’m aiming for - I’ve saved a copy to refer back to! In the next working session I’m removing the paint from the 0.3mm rods when I rub the paint from the bearing faces. There’s a bit of a take of woe on the guard rail - I’d soldered it on and then forgot to bend it before I primed the chassis, then when I bent it it fell off, so I superglued it back on temporarily until I have the soldering iron out again. Here’s the other side showing what it used to look like Thanks again for all your help! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 14, 2020 Hello everybody! A little modelling done since the weekend - other than couplings I finished the first plate wagon: this now has the distinction of being the first 2mm wagon I’ve got finished where finished includes transfers and weathering... and it runs... calling that a result (just got a load more wagons to go!) I did a tiny bit of soldering last night too - crank pins into all wheels, the layers of the coupling rods soldered together, and I soldered the front guard iron back in place. Next for this loco I need to glue* balance weights in place, finish the coupling rods, and fitting the gears together to form a rolling chassis. Lots to do! Simon (*glue because I think I have new style wheels and they didn’t take solder very well so the weights kept falling back off when I tried to solder them...) 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted October 21, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2020 Hello everybody, I don’t seem to have done much this last week, the weather was warm enough to get a better coat of black on the J94: The first coat went orange peel-ish and I had to rub it down and try again. It’s going to take a lot of weathering once I’ve got the transfers on. I finished the first four 16 tonners, I might give the white stripes a bit of a rub just to knock the whiteness back. I got a kit for two of these, awkward little things, it took a lot of fettling to get this far. I need to do some more work on this to close the gap some more, then the chassis can be stuck on and primed. I’ve been staring at the 060 body kit and two new tubes of epoxy for 5 weeks, I really should get on with it. Lots to do! Simon 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted November 8, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 8, 2020 Hello everybody! Lots of little bits done while putting off doing other things... Some more wagons finished off, these ones even have couplings! This is ready for weathering now, that will get the last bits I missed on the steps... and it needs crew, coal and a lamp. I even managed to get round to lining the first side of this... The thing I’ve been slightly avoiding is this: I’m not sure what to do about it, there don’t seem to be any bits that fit very well Lots to do... Simon 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted November 14, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 14, 2020 Hello everybody! I’ve managed to squeeze some small jobs into my working day and as a result have three wagons ready to weather and one ready for transfers: 2x 21T and 1x 24.5T coal wagon, they’ve had all the various coats of varnish and (Modelmaster) transfers, just waiting for the bits of rust and powder before they’re done. This is ready for the transfers to turn up... So this looks like a mad combination but it’s just what was to hand in the cupboard. The baseboards for my plank turned up and I realised I only had a little sketchy plan that would only fit into 4x the space... This afternoon after a lay-in and a nap I decided to stop prevaricating and see if I can finish off the L&Y 060. First up: turned down the lip on a metric>imperial stepped gear muff... It finished up a bit prettier than this, but not much! Next: put a different gear on the other side and epoxy in stub axles. Then get a little bored and push-fit the non-geared axles just to see what it looked like while waiting for the epoxy to set. So far everything still turns! Lots to do Simon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted November 15, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2020 17 hours ago, MrSimon said: Hello everybody! I’ve managed to squeeze some small jobs into my working day and as a result have three wagons ready to weather and one ready for transfers: 2x 21T and 1x 24.5T coal wagon, they’ve had all the various coats of varnish and (Modelmaster) transfers, just waiting for the bits of rust and powder before they’re done. This is ready for the transfers to turn up... So this looks like a mad combination but it’s just what was to hand in the cupboard. The baseboards for my plank turned up and I realised I only had a little sketchy plan that would only fit into 4x the space... This afternoon after a lay-in and a nap I decided to stop prevaricating and see if I can finish off the L&Y 060. First up: turned down the lip on a metric>imperial stepped gear muff... It finished up a bit prettier than this, but not much! Next: put a different gear on the other side and epoxy in stub axles. Then get a little bored and push-fit the non-geared axles just to see what it looked like while waiting for the epoxy to set. So far everything still turns! Lots to do Simon Hi Simon, It's coming on then. I'd fit the middle axle gear next, but temporarily on a length of 1.5mm axle steel. Hold the axle steel in a mini drill and give the gear set a spin to see if it runs smoothly. You can also give the gears a quick flip with your finger to check they run smoothly without binding. You may want to consider running the gears with the minidrill with some Cif smeared over the teeth. This should after a few minutes smooth out any burrs. Afterwards, clean the chassis and gears thoroughly to remove all the Cif. Use a sonic cleaner if you have one. Nigel Hunt 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted November 15, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2020 (edited) Thanks Nigel - it certainly provided one of the stranger kitchen experiences I’ve had! I went Maxi rather than Mini, but on slow speed it worked well and seemed stable. There’s a slight tick going one way, the cif worked well though - it’s much less noticeable now but still there. Before going to the kitchen it had been free-wheeling down a slope. How much do you think will be sorted out with a white metal body pressing everything down? Many thanks Simon Edited November 15, 2020 by MrSimon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted November 17, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2020 Hello everyone, I sorted the clicking, I realised it was happening every time the smallest gear went round once, so I popped the gear out and rubbed each tooth with wet’n’dry (like I probably should have before sticking them on the muffs) and the clicking went I’ll give it another go with the cif and the drill and then I think it might be time to get the wheels fitted Lots to do! Simon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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