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MrSimon

Mr Simon's N Gauge Workbench - pg20> Network Rail HST, V1 2-6-2, 2mm J94, other stuff...

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Getting the 4MT to run without locking up every time it comes within half a mile of a speck of dust is going to be fun.

 

Farish reckoned they didn't have lockup problems with tender drives- which presumably is why they moved to putting the motor in the engine.......

 

 

 

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Haha well unless I can get the wheels turning on the Scott it will be going 2mm much earlier than I’d anticipated - bit of an extreme candidate for 3rd engine for a shunting plank!

 

 

Hello everybody! 
 

Lots of little bitty things happening over the last two weeks, firstly I started finishing the class 108:

 

286F1748-5B7F-4B96-BCEC-F4882DB90027.jpeg.c752f79e22fe186a13af4d75ac178ffd.jpeg

I wasn’t happy with some bits of the rushed paint job I gave it before Leamington, and in hindsight I’m glad I didn’t get the transfers on before the show. 
 

ADBC39E6-4AAD-44CA-B37A-72D55BBCA978.jpeg.e3600439576b3d4772e757c7c77159b7.jpeg

All eight bogies painted at once... 

 

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I got slightly distracted by the arrival of some more shortened couplings from Shapeways - they came 3 weeks earlier than I’d been expecting.  I set to work fitting them to my Farish mark 3 rake.

 

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I also marshalled the rake so no more coaches need to loose their buffers.  Some coaches will only run in the west coast formation of this train, only the ones without buffers will run with the HST powercars.

 

D60A2B87-729D-45E1-90E2-0F14959300E4.jpeg.fb5b889ac4c4fa7547a0f1502f829b27.jpeg

Next I decided to give the shirt couplings a test in the HAA train.  I’d used them successfully with the Farish 15ft wagons but not Minitrix ones - they’re tricky to change couplings, I’ve no idea how they were originally fitted!

 

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A short coupling on each end brought the gap down to 2mm, but I’m going to stick with one normal and one short on each wagon so I don’t have to demolish both coupling boxes on each wagon.  There goes the resale value!  
 

I’m going to look into making some sort of representation of the hopper gear to go on the bottom of each wagon - there’s nothing there at the moment. It’s long term but on the Trello...

 

Of course I took a video... This week the track had slightly tighter than normal curves to test out the shorter + shorter couplings on the minitrix hoppers in case making the conversion prevented their use on Gresby.  The initial testing was with 8 wagons so if there were problems with the rear 4 wagons (the ones I had altered) I could see if it was the definitely the couplings and not something else.  It seems strange seeing a single class 20... The mark 3s also behaved, but the Dapol hoppers didn’t.  I’m not sure if a bit of liquid glaze to stop the couplings bobbing up and down is the answer.

 

Anyway, lots to do!

 

Simon

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I have a feeling Minitrix used some kind of heat welding to fix their coupling pockets; I'm sure it would be impossible to mould them as they are!

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Is that what it is?  I was looking for a way in an saw two really fine lines and though “that’s a really well-fitting join on such an old model” so I pulled it and there was a snapping noise :chok_mini:

 

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And then I thought “oh well, 25 left to go!” 
 

 

In other news this turned up today:

 

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Great model, I’m researching to see if I can justify a teak one too...!

 

Lots to do

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

After 4 weeks of putting the Portabrook 47 in the sun every time it was out to try and bleach the yellow’d varnish.  
 

It didn’t work, so I gently rubbed it back.  Today I weathered the roof and then streaked some down the side and wiped it off.

 

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I had a slight panic at the start when I found out how much iron red was left in the weathering brush from when I did the tipplers... but I think I saved it!

 

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Here it is ready for varnishing.

 

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Front

 

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Train end

 

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Full body.  I’m in two minds about giving the body sides a coat of clear just to give it a ‘washed sheen’ but the roof is fine.  Once it’s all set I need to clean the wheels and give it a run!  
 

The only thing left to do is to make a long distance fuel tank, but that can wait for later... but now it’s time to choose a new loco upgrade/repaint!

 

Lots to do

Simon

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Hello everybody!

 

After six weeks away from the workbench I would have eased myself back in with something easy; maybe finished off something I’d started before the break... but not this time!

 

7127CD89-8E48-45F3-8354-3C474F71581F.jpeg.acaddb4d3dcbe3ab65ad61f899421815.jpeg

Another 2mm scale chassis!  Not the prettiest bit of soldering you’ll ever see... Here’s the inside of one of the frames with the bearings and bits of PCB stuck on
 

C141CE08-804A-4487-B4DE-C903980F27FE.jpeg.0ab05e24ad63e781eeff2bfbb37b2706.jpeg

I need to sort out my workbench, it’s not the easiest thing to solder chassis stretchers on.  Maybe some space for a vice and stuff...

 

F6FC9D4B-B3B4-454A-AB82-045E6B6539E5.jpeg.9d93c7b0f93fcc794408f55870c7aab2.jpeg

When I get the chassis into the jig I’ll be able to straighten these out.  I’m not going to join the two sides until I’ve given it a go over with the multimeter as I’m not completely sure I didn’t accidentally bridge the insulation.

 

8D5E76D0-D0C5-44E7-BF4B-6B824E173FBA.jpeg.ba9088385026b1c43c12ba3588fc17e7.jpeg

It doesn’t look massively straight at the moment but that’s because it’s only really held in place by the jig.  I’m waiting for a few bits to turn up in the post for this too...
 

I’ll get started with the body soon - can anyone guess what it is yet?

 

Lots to do!

Simon

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On 31/08/2020 at 19:30, MrSimon said:

Hello everybody!

 

After six weeks away from the workbench I would have eased myself back in with something easy; maybe finished off something I’d started before the break... but not this time!

 

 

Another 2mm scale chassis!  Not the prettiest bit of soldering you’ll ever see... Here’s the inside of one of the frames with the bearings and bits of PCB stuck on
 

 

I need to sort out my workbench, it’s not the easiest thing to solder chassis stretchers on.  Maybe some space for a vice and stuff...

 

 

When I get the chassis into the jig I’ll be able to straighten these out.  I’m not going to join the two sides until I’ve given it a go over with the multimeter as I’m not completely sure I didn’t accidentally bridge the insulation.

 

8D5E76D0-D0C5-44E7-BF4B-6B824E173FBA.jpeg.ba9088385026b1c43c12ba3588fc17e7.jpeg

It doesn’t look massively straight at the moment but that’s because it’s only really held in place by the jig.  I’m waiting for a few bits to turn up in the post for this too...
 

I’ll get started with the body soon - can anyone guess what it is yet?

 

Lots to do!

Simon

I know what its supposed to be for as its one of my chassis kits. Looking good so far, get in touch if you have any queries.

 

Regards,

 

Nigel Hunt

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On 02/09/2020 at 12:15, Nig H said:

I know what its supposed to be for as its one of my chassis kits. Looking good so far, get in touch if you have any queries.

 

Regards,

 

Nigel Hunt

 

Thanks Nigel - it’s been fun so far but has hit a bit of a delay waiting for a multimeter to turn up so I can test it before soldering the two halves together.  Will definitely ask if I get stuck - I’ve got a pretty long wish list of your kits so I’m keen to get this first one working well :))  

 

I’m going to make a start on the body next week then everyone will know - hopefully the meter will come too so it can be running by Christmas.

 


 

Hello everybody!

 

There’s been a bit more 2mm work going on this weekend.  First up, I attached couplings to a J94 with turned down wheels I bought on eBay as a spare loco.  Obviously I took some short clips of me messing around with the delayed action couplings:

 

 

 

This has now gone into works to have the RT Modes detailing kit fitted. Like a fool I started filing out the bunker which in hindsight wasn’t the best idea.. but it’ll be fine!

 

This weekend I decided to batch build some wagons. I chose three chassis out of the 2mm tin:

 

7DEE792D-C376-41BA-8FEE-A55E8E4D2782.jpeg.f65a59fd7650bafdb185f9dc75f2ed62.jpeg

Two LNER plate wagons and a Southern BY (passenger brake)

 

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I made the plate wagons first after abandoning batch building as soon as I’d done the bearings. When I reached the stage shown in this picture I should have stopped and filed the ends a little before fitting the buffer beams, as they’re less than 1mm too long :(

 

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(excuse the strange colour, I forgot the bit of white paper and had to correct it) this would be a finished wagon shot but I need to take the buffer beams off, adjust them and then fit the buffers.  
 

Also, I think I’m going to start supergluing axle-boxes on, I’ve never soldered one straight!

 

B7DF62A4-00C8-469B-8811-D6B1B6C99922.jpeg.ed82194aeb33ce120521ad218620b480.jpeg

So here are the finished* chassis for 2x LNER fitted plate wagons.  One has plates on the axle boxes the other doesn’t.  When I get to painting one will be LNER brown and the other BR, for variety.

 

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This afternoon I finished the third chassis.  I had a bit of a moment last night when I realised BYs and CCTs were different lengths, and I had a CCT to convert... there’s a correct length body on the way.  
 

The only thing left to do on this chassis is to build the buffer beams.  I can’t quite work out where they should fit so will have to look at the instructions!  I’d also like to fit it to the body while I’m at it

 

6365B78C-0EAD-46B6-9789-0E386B115602.jpeg.6e67a5f5d3b5aa7831990c21e5dcebdc.jpeg

When I was in the 2mm tin I found these part built.  They might need a bit of work!

 

Lots to do!

Simon

 

Edited by MrSimon
Reworded a sentence
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Hi Simon,

 

You can test for shorts using a DC controller. Just connect the terminals to the frame and then each spacer in turn with the power set high. The red light on my Gaugemaster goes out if there is a short.

 

Regards,

 

Nigel Hunt

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