Nigelcliffe Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 John, these springs are primarily to ensure good electrical contact, not suspension. Its an important distinction. And you need good pickup on every wheel on a 14xx if you expect it to run reliably - the one I've helped with ended up with a DCC stay-alive added inside the side tanks to further improve running reliability. A 14xx is a bit awkward to balance, get the weight distribution too far back and all the load goes onto the trailing wheel, and there is negligible forward tractive effort. Go too far the other way, and the trailing wheels hop off the track whenever a sparrow sneezes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted October 24, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2018 I have to say, after building two A1X Terrier chassis, I found the springing made little difference because the locos were so small and light, the wheels just did not make reliable contact with the rails so there was no power reaching the axles to be picked up. In the end I had to resort to rail top scrapers which made a world of difference. Even when I point them out to people, they still find it hard to see them. See them here 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted October 24, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2018 We have always used rail top scrapers on Mrs W’s yard. They can be bit fragile, but they do work really well, and as a show progresses, the track gets more & more polished. Tim 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Brenchley Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 John, these springs are primarily to ensure good electrical contact, not suspension. Its an important distinction. And you need good pickup on every wheel on a 14xx if you expect it to run reliably - the one I've helped with ended up with a DCC stay-alive added inside the side tanks to further improve running reliability. A 14xx is a bit awkward to balance, get the weight distribution too far back and all the load goes onto the trailing wheel, and there is negligible forward tractive effort. Go too far the other way, and the trailing wheels hop off the track whenever a sparrow sneezes. Thanks Nigel and others for your suggestions. I'll have a go over the weekend at adding the extra pickups to all 6 wheels and see how it goes. Rail top scrapers might be an additional option. One other question I have is about the methods of fixing the breaks. The instructions (yes, I have read them several times) talk about either permanet fixing or a removeable method but I can't for the life of me work out how the removeable method is done. There is mention of having the cross wires go all the way across the chassis but how do you avoid shorting? Thanks John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted October 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2018 Thanks Nigel and others for your suggestions. I'll have a go over the weekend at adding the extra pickups to all 6 wheels and see how it goes. Rail top scrapers might be an additional option. One other question I have is about the methods of fixing the breaks. The instructions (yes, I have read them several times) talk about either permanet fixing or a removeable method but I can't for the life of me work out how the removeable method is done. There is mention of having the cross wires go all the way across the chassis but how do you avoid shorting? Thanks John I fix the brakes permanently and also, initially, solder the cross wires all the way across which makes lining everything up much easier. I then snip a mm or so out of the cross wires and slip a bit of insulating sleeve over the gap followed by a spot of runny superglue at each end. The picture should make things clear. Jerry 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Brenchley Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 I fix the brakes permanently and also, initially, solder the cross wires all the way across which makes lining everything up much easier. I then snip a mm or so out of the cross wires and slip a bit of insulating sleeve over the gap followed by a spot of runny superglue at each end. The picture should make things clear. 2F 12.jpg Jerry Nice clear pictures thanks Jerry I have done something similar when I wanted them fixed permanently - I was just thinking it might be useful to be able to remove them if something went wrong with the wheels, hence my question about the method that is suggested in the kit instructions John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Removable is a bit like Jerry has done, but assembled on a jig so the pins which go into the frame holes just spring into place. Then the harder bit - insulation: very thin PCB can be used as the stretcher, double sided, to provide an electrical gap. Thin PCB is available down to about 0.3 or 0.25mm from Eileens or Hobby Holidays, and probably elsewhere. Or Jerry's method if the assembly can be held apart correctly whilst the glue filled sleeve is fixed in place. - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightmail Posted November 29, 2018 Share Posted November 29, 2018 Hi Chris. I'm about to embark on a 61xx chassis and was wondering which wheels you had in mind when you designed it. 5'8" drivers come between two Association sizes so am I better going under at 11mm or slightly over at 11.5 mm? I'm guessing that 6mm pony and 6.5mm trailing wheels with the former or 6.5mm and 7mm with the latter would be consistent? Many thanks Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 30, 2018 Author Share Posted November 30, 2018 (edited) Hi Chris. I'm about to embark on a 61xx chassis and was wondering which wheels you had in mind when you designed it. 5'8" drivers come between two Association sizes so am I better going under at 11mm or slightly over at 11.5 mm? I'm guessing that 6mm pony and 6.5mm trailing wheels with the former or 6.5mm and 7mm with the latter would be consistent? Many thanks Pete Designed with 11.5mm drivers and 7.5mm trailing, which are pretty much scale size for a 1:148 model. So 11mm and 7mm should also work if you want a bit more clearance. For the pony truck you can make your own choice as there is more flexibility in adjusting the height of the truck. Edited December 1, 2018 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightmail Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Designed with 11.5mm drivers and 7.5mm trailing, which are pretty much scale size for a 1:148 model. So 11mm and 7mm should also work if you want a bit more clearance. For the pony truck you can make your own choice as there is more flexibility in adjusting the height of the truck. Thanks for your reply Chris. One other thing- the 3D printed radial truck that is mentioned on the drawings, is that available? Perhaps you would be kind enough to post a link. Is the alternative to using it just to build the chassis as a 0-6-2? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) A new batch of LNWR Coal Tanks chassis arrived and are being sent out to those who were waiting patiently (or not). There are just five surplus to the received orders. If anyone still wants one, now is the time to contact me. I don't expect to be ordering any more, or indeed be bothering with the paperwork and hassle that Brexit is going to bring in. Chris Edited February 11, 2019 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 On 11/02/2019 at 22:57, Chris Higgs said: A new batch of LNWR Coal Tanks chassis arrived and are being sent out to those who were waiting patiently (or not). There are just five surplus to the received orders. If anyone still wants one, now is the time to contact me. I don't expect to be ordering any more, or indeed be bothering with the paperwork and hassle that Brexit is going to bring in. Chris Hallo Chris. I don't suppose any of these are still available? A bit late I know but I've just acquired a set of the Coal Tank etches... Sláinte Iain Kirk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 12 hours ago, iak said: Hallo Chris. I don't suppose any of these are still available? A bit late I know but I've just acquired a set of the Coal Tank etches... Sláinte Iain Kirk Yes, still a few left. But as I am in the US right now, it will have to wait until I am back. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 18 hours ago, Chris Higgs said: Yes, still a few left. But as I am in the US right now, it will have to wait until I am back. Chris Smashing, I shall be back in touch. Thanks . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted February 13, 2020 Share Posted February 13, 2020 Coal Tank chassis received with gratitude. Does anyone have anyone have any guidance or instructions on how to assemble this please? It's a bit of a leap from dropping wheelsets into Farish locomotives... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 On 13/02/2020 at 09:49, iak said: Coal Tank chassis received with gratitude. Does anyone have anyone have any guidance or instructions on how to assemble this please? It's a bit of a leap from dropping wheelsets into Farish locomotives... There are a number of replacement chassis for rtr locomotives available from the association, they and the coal tank chassis all share a similar design and construction philosophy, so the instructions for those is probably the best place to start. http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/instruction_sheets/chassis general etched loco instructions.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted February 14, 2020 Share Posted February 14, 2020 Thanks Gareth. Could nae see for looking Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 (edited) Here are some running gear etches I have been working on: Unrebuilt Merchant Navy (Farish) - I have coupling rods for a WC too LMS Princess Coronation (Farish) LNER A3/A4 (Dapol) - this one is just the coupling/connecting rods, a full set of valvegear may follow and a standaone cantilever gearbox. It just slots onto a chassi which has used the Association axle bearings (as my etches do) Chris Edited March 15, 2020 by Chris Higgs 5 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 In order for a 0-6-0 chassis to negotiate tight radii curves, it is recommended to file the middle P/B bearings flush with the N/S frames. But, what if the driving gear is fitted to the middle muff? Shall I still file the middle bearings, or choose another pair of bearings (front or rear)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 6 hours ago, Valentin said: In order for a 0-6-0 chassis to negotiate tight radii curves, it is recommended to file the middle P/B bearings flush with the N/S frames. But, what if the driving gear is fitted to the middle muff? Shall I still file the middle bearings, or choose another pair of bearings (front or rear)? I have only built a handful of loco chassis, but I generally file the protruding part of all the bearings flush with the outside of the frames. I've just checked a couple of sets of instructions that are to hand (etched kits by Bob Jones and Nigel Hunt) and they both mention doing this. Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 On all my locos there is intermediate gearing between the worm shaft and the axle, but I would think the worm sets would have enough tolerance to allow for the slight sideways movement of the axle. Jim 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted August 4, 2021 Author Share Posted August 4, 2021 (edited) I note that BR Lines now have a stock of bodies of the Bachmann 64XX. If there is anyone out there who was wanting to get my etched chassis to go with these, I am considering putting in an order with the etchers as I don't have any left at the moment. What I do have if anyone is so foolish is a number of 56XX etched chassis which should go nicely with the new Sonic Models loco. As some of you will have noted from the newsletter I don't send stuff from the Netherlands any more due to the Brexit customs hassle, so I am having to coordinate things in advance for when I will next be in the UK. Chris Edited August 4, 2021 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sithlord75 Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 Chris, is there anywhere where one can see what is in your portfolio? I'd say catalogue but that would imply it was available (and I understand why it may not be) but knowing what you've got may make it easier to arrange runs for interested parties. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted August 5, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 5, 2021 On 04/08/2021 at 13:02, Chris Higgs said: I note that BR Lines now have a stock of bodies of the Bachmann 64XX. If there is anyone out there who was wanting to get my etched chassis to go with these, I am considering putting in an order with the etchers as I don't have any left at the moment. What I do have if anyone is so foolish is a number of 56XX etched chassis which should go nicely with the new Sonic Models loco. As some of you will have noted from the newsletter I don't send stuff from the Netherlands any more due to the Brexit customs hassle, so I am having to coordinate things in advance for when I will next be in the UK. Chris Chris, I had spotted those bodies at BR Lines and I have one of your chassis etches. Am I correct in thinking that it is suitable for a 54xx? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted August 5, 2021 Author Share Posted August 5, 2021 6 hours ago, DavidLong said: Chris, I had spotted those bodies at BR Lines and I have one of your chassis etches. Am I correct in thinking that it is suitable for a 54xx? David It is. Although reports are the wheel clearances are very tight if you fit a size suitable for the large wheeled 54s. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now