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Chris Higgs

Etched loco chassis

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John,

these springs are primarily to ensure good electrical contact, not suspension.  Its an important distinction.  And you need good pickup on every wheel on a 14xx if you expect it to run reliably - the one I've helped with ended up with a DCC stay-alive added inside the side tanks to further improve running reliability. 

 

A 14xx is a bit awkward to balance, get the weight distribution too far back and all the load goes onto the trailing wheel, and there is negligible forward tractive effort.  Go too far the other way, and the trailing wheels hop off the track whenever a sparrow sneezes. 

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I have to say, after building two A1X Terrier chassis, I found the springing made little difference because the locos were so small and light, the wheels just did not make reliable contact with the rails so there was no power reaching the axles to be picked up. In the end I had to resort to rail top scrapers which made a world of difference. Even when I point them out to people, they still find it hard to see them.

 

See them here

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We have always used rail top scrapers on Mrs W’s yard. They can be bit fragile, but they do work really well, and as a show progresses, the track gets more & more polished.

 

Tim

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John,

these springs are primarily to ensure good electrical contact, not suspension.  Its an important distinction.  And you need good pickup on every wheel on a 14xx if you expect it to run reliably - the one I've helped with ended up with a DCC stay-alive added inside the side tanks to further improve running reliability. 

 

A 14xx is a bit awkward to balance, get the weight distribution too far back and all the load goes onto the trailing wheel, and there is negligible forward tractive effort.  Go too far the other way, and the trailing wheels hop off the track whenever a sparrow sneezes. 

 

Thanks Nigel and others for your suggestions.

 

I'll have a go over the weekend at adding the extra pickups to all 6 wheels and see how it goes.  Rail top scrapers might be an additional option.

 

One other question I have is about the methods of fixing the breaks.  The instructions (yes, I have read them several times) talk about either permanet fixing or a removeable method but I can't for the life of me work out how the removeable method is done.  There is mention of having the cross wires go all the way across the chassis but how do you avoid shorting?

 

Thanks

 

John

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Thanks Nigel and others for your suggestions.

 

I'll have a go over the weekend at adding the extra pickups to all 6 wheels and see how it goes.  Rail top scrapers might be an additional option.

 

One other question I have is about the methods of fixing the breaks.  The instructions (yes, I have read them several times) talk about either permanet fixing or a removeable method but I can't for the life of me work out how the removeable method is done.  There is mention of having the cross wires go all the way across the chassis but how do you avoid shorting?

 

Thanks

 

John

 

I fix the brakes permanently and also, initially, solder the cross wires all the way across which makes lining everything up much easier. I then snip a mm or so out of the cross wires and slip a bit of insulating sleeve over the gap followed by a spot of runny superglue at each end. The picture should make things clear.

 

post-1074-0-49362800-1540537971_thumb.jpg

 

Jerry

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I fix the brakes permanently and also, initially, solder the cross wires all the way across which makes lining everything up much easier. I then snip a mm or so out of the cross wires and slip a bit of insulating sleeve over the gap followed by a spot of runny superglue at each end. The picture should make things clear.

 

attachicon.gif2F 12.jpg

 

Jerry

 

Nice clear pictures thanks Jerry

 

I have done something similar when I wanted them fixed permanently - I was just thinking it might be useful to be able to remove them if something went wrong with the wheels, hence my question about the method that is suggested in the kit instructions

 

John

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Removable is a bit like Jerry has done, but assembled on a jig so the pins which go into the frame holes just spring into place.    Then the harder bit - insulation:  very thin PCB can be used as the stretcher, double sided, to provide an electrical gap.   Thin PCB is available down to about 0.3 or 0.25mm from Eileens or Hobby Holidays, and probably elsewhere.   Or Jerry's method if the assembly can be held apart correctly whilst the glue filled sleeve is fixed in place. 

 

- Nigel

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Hi Chris. I'm about to embark on a 61xx chassis and was wondering which wheels you had in mind when you designed it. 5'8" drivers come between two Association sizes so am I better going under at 11mm or slightly over at 11.5 mm? I'm guessing that 6mm pony and 6.5mm trailing wheels with the former or 6.5mm and 7mm with the latter would be consistent?

 

Many thanks

 

Pete

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Hi Chris. I'm about to embark on a 61xx chassis and was wondering which wheels you had in mind when you designed it. 5'8" drivers come between two Association sizes so am I better going under at 11mm or slightly over at 11.5 mm? I'm guessing that 6mm pony and 6.5mm trailing wheels with the former or 6.5mm and 7mm with the latter would be consistent?

 

Many thanks

 

Pete

 

Designed with 11.5mm drivers and 7.5mm trailing, which are pretty much scale size for a 1:148 model. So 11mm and 7mm should also work if you want a bit more clearance. For the pony truck you can make your own choice as there is more flexibility in adjusting the height of the truck.

Edited by Chris Higgs

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Designed with 11.5mm drivers and 7.5mm trailing, which are pretty much scale size for a 1:148 model. So 11mm and 7mm should also work if you want a bit more clearance. For the pony truck you can make your own choice as there is more flexibility in adjusting the height of the truck.

 

 

Thanks for your reply Chris. One other thing- the 3D printed radial truck that is mentioned on the drawings, is that available? Perhaps you would be kind enough to post a link. Is the alternative to using it just to build the chassis as a 0-6-2?

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A new batch of LNWR Coal Tanks chassis arrived and are being sent out to those who were waiting patiently (or not).

 

There are just five surplus to the received orders. If anyone still wants one, now is the time to contact me. I don't expect to be ordering any more, or indeed be bothering with the paperwork and hassle that Brexit is going to bring in.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs

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On 11/02/2019 at 22:57, Chris Higgs said:

A new batch of LNWR Coal Tanks chassis arrived and are being sent out to those who were waiting patiently (or not).

 

There are just five surplus to the received orders. If anyone still wants one, now is the time to contact me. I don't expect to be ordering any more, or indeed be bothering with the paperwork and hassle that Brexit is going to bring in.

 

Chris

 

Hallo Chris.

I don't suppose any of these are still available? A bit late I know but I've just acquired a set of the Coal Tank etches...

Sláinte

Iain Kirk

 

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12 hours ago, iak said:

 

Hallo Chris.

I don't suppose any of these are still available? A bit late I know but I've just acquired a set of the Coal Tank etches...

Sláinte

Iain Kirk

 

 

Yes, still a few left. But as I am in the US right now, it will have to wait until I am back.

 

Chris

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18 hours ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

Yes, still a few left. But as I am in the US right now, it will have to wait until I am back.

 

Chris

 

Smashing, I shall be back in touch.

Thanks .

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Coal Tank chassis received with gratitude.

Does anyone have anyone have any guidance or instructions on how to assemble this please? It's a bit of a leap from dropping wheelsets into Farish locomotives... :bomb_mini:

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On 13/02/2020 at 09:49, iak said:

Coal Tank chassis received with gratitude.

Does anyone have anyone have any guidance or instructions on how to assemble this please? It's a bit of a leap from dropping wheelsets into Farish locomotives... :bomb_mini:

 

There are a number of replacement chassis for rtr locomotives available from the association, they and the coal tank chassis all share a similar design and construction philosophy, so the instructions for those is probably the best place to start. http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/instruction_sheets/chassis general etched loco instructions.pdf

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Thanks Gareth. 

Could nae see for looking :blink:

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Posted (edited)

Here are some running gear etches I have been working on:

 

Unrebuilt Merchant Navy (Farish) - I have coupling rods for a WC too

LMS Princess Coronation (Farish)

LNER A3/A4 (Dapol) - this one is just the coupling/connecting rods, a full set of valvegear may follow

 

and a standaone cantilever gearbox. It just slots onto a chassi which has used the Association axle bearings (as my etches do)

 

Chris1817149666_FarishSRMN.jpg.a981bf588f6d36f614b9458c9396dae8.jpg116353378_FarishLMS8P.jpg.3c9ed2726b3489f3230ba8ac921fc8d6.jpg1010365046_DapolA3.jpg.715bbffa01133e800283f835ea3c22d6.jpg714182065_Cantilevergearbox.jpg.06b0efdc8847b58c16cc4342032baf43.jpg

Edited by Chris Higgs
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