Valentin Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 Thank you all! Nice one Valetine, the chassis looks particularly neat. Have you chemically blackened it or painted it?Pix I have used the Aerosol Etch Primer which I bought from eBay and a couple of touches with a permanent marker (as this was the first time I have used this product I was afraid not to spray too much primer and there were a few blank spots left). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshire001 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Nice one with the 16T mineral! I was going to buy one of these kits for an experiment until I realised I could hardly see the parts on the fret, never mind assemble them :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 A new common crossing: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 20, 2013 Author Share Posted December 20, 2013 I am trying another approach to tie-bars / TOUs, this time using motors and not manual operation. The tie-bar is a PCB timber seated on the edge; I used 0.3 mm phosphor-bronze wire to fit the blades to the tie-bar and a copper tube (wire-in-tube, Mercontrol) soldered to the tie-bar to transmit the movement from the motor+TOU; I am going to use Cobalt motors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 28, 2013 Author Share Posted December 28, 2013 I soldered two electrical feeds to each rail segment by drilling 0.8 mm holes into the sleepers and 3 mm holes into the baseboard. The point is glued in place using Easitrac glue. The following picture was taken before fitting the wires to the turnout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 My first attempt in scratch building a 0-6-0 tender engine: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 I used the Association jig to solder the PCB spacers and the steel rods to check the parallelism: and I got this: Then I've got to the stage where the free running is usually checked. As I had no coupling rods I did the test without them and everything seems fine: The bores for the wheels stubs are 1.6 mm. All the muffs have the bores slightly enlarged using a 1.51 drill bit. @John: we have a meeting this Thursday at Nonington from 7 PM. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 Another try in building a tender for the SECR Class C, with, in my opinion, better results than the first attempt: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted October 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 12, 2014 Great progress Valentin and good to see you at the AGM on Saturday. I thought your J94 ran superbly on Tucking Mill. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Hi Valentin I wish that I'd known that you were there I would have said hi as we only live a few miles apart That tender looks very nice John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted October 12, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 12, 2014 Great progress Valentin and good to see you at the AGM on Saturday. I thought your J94 ran superbly on Tucking Mill. Jerry I have to agree the J94 ran beautifully on Haverhill at the AGM and every local area meet Valentin appears with a chassis running like silk I only wish my own modelling had developed as far BTW Tucking Mills is a beauty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 Hi Valentin I wish that I'd known that you were there I would have said hi as we only live a few miles apart That tender looks very nice John Hello John, We will meet eventually Thank you all for your nice words! As for John, this AGM was my first one; I have met many of the Association members at other events and exhibition though. But having the chance to admire five beautiful layouts together with so many models built at such high standards and all in the same place!!!... It was like a modeller's heaven for me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 I agree Valentin the models that were entered for the judging just amazed me absolutely superb every one of them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 I made some progress with the tender for the Class C. In fact, I think the next step will be to add all the details: brake hose, buffers, brake gear, lamp irons, rear panel steps (2). As usual, the close-up photographs are cruel but I am very pleased how all the parts came together, with very clean soldering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 Ouch!!! As for details, I've forgotten to mention the axle boxes! What axle boxes shall I use for this Wainwright Class C tender?... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Vert nice Valentin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Ouch!!! As for details, I've forgotten to mention the axle boxes! What axle boxes shall I use for this Wainwright Class C tender?... I think they're LNWR but N Brass 2141 looks vaguely right to my untrained eye. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Thank you, Gareth. I put an order for these to Nick Tilston and thanks to his great service I will be getting them probably tomorrow. Very soon I will be starting to build the locomotive body; unlike the first kit which I built a few months ago, this is Nickel-Silver and not brass (I like more N/S as the brass alloy spreads the heat from the iron very fast). On this first built I hadn't used the parts marked "1" in the picture below. I know they are intended for the boiler but how exactely should I use them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mikes rail Posted December 8, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 8, 2014 Are they spacers to keep boiler barrel true? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 That's what I thought but should they be soldered to the barrel? If so, how to solder when the barrel is fully rolled? Anyway, I might use only one, at the fire-box end of the boiler so I can solder it all way around. Meanwhile, more details (tender filler, axle boxes and rear steps): Lamp irons, brake gear and hose, and buffers to come... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 And the brake rods: Before fitting the rods I would have thought soldering a few this strips of scrap N/S is a very simple operation. After many hours of work and a few failed attempts (I didn't like the end result and I started again) I can say: "How wrong I was!". Even now I'm not 100% happy (see the middle rod on the near side) although I'm not going to start again. Or, should I?... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Looks good to me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 Thanks, John! The rod is just a tad too long and there is no way to squeeze a file or sand-paper between those rods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 But from normal viewing distance hopefully shouldn't be too bad. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Hughes Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 there is no way to squeeze a file or sand-paper between those rods. A riffler file or an escapement file of appropriate shape is the answer to getting in these awkward little spaces. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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