Chubber Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 I've recently been trying some techniques for modelling the 'batter' or lean-in used in the prototypical construction of retaining walls. It is typically calculated to be about 1 in 10, and is often seen in bridge and tunnel abutments. It can be problematic to model and often large sheets of plastic card/card and paper are fixed in an upright position without its use. I also recently received an email requesting assistance with sizes, or rather, proportions for a run of similar retaining walls, so have produced the accompanying sketch. For these small columns, the 7mm square represents two bricks end to end added to the end width of another, i.e. 9" + 9" + 3" = 21" 7mm = 1 3/4ft = 4mm + 3mm so that should be about right. Purists might find this a rather crude approach, and I make no claims that what I have modelled is wholly prototypical, but it'll do for me! As blue engineering brick resists crushing and dampness it has been used for the foundation layers which will be in a wet place, and the capping to shed rainfall. The blue brick and top strip is cut from Scalescenes dark blue brick TX27, and the strip of soldier course bricks from this sheet cover the string course between the battered and vertical parts of the wall. The columns in aged Aged Brown brick TX07 to represent re-used material when the railway bought the land and erected the retaining walls adjacent to a hard-standing area and the walls in Brown brick TX02. I hope this has been of use to one or two readers, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gastwo Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Doug, everything you post is of use. Keep it coming! ATB Shaun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Thank you for such a kind remark, I'll add this one, too in that case Going round the bend...... Just an add-on to say that when joining canted elements at obtuse angles it's probably better to do the vertical and sloped parts separately. The upper part gets cut squarely at the mitre angle whereas the sloping part has to be cut with a compound angle, it may be worthwhile cutting a spare piece of card first as a try-out. Another useful idea is to cut a template of the shape the wall is to surround, stick it to your cutting-mat with blue-tack and assemble the work around it. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Wow, certainly a lot of thought gone into that. Have to admit I usually just slap some brick paper over the shape I need - will have to consider more carefully in future! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 4, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 4, 2011 Doug, As ever, that looks superb ! Please can you explain how you make the curved brick former for the top of the walls ? Cheers Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Excellent Doug. What thickness of card do you suggest & are you putting some supports behind the wall panels or are you just butting them up to the pillars ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Job's Modelling Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Very nice modelling. Can learn a lot from you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Howe Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Seems so simple, but looks seriously impressive even with only a couple of walls assembled. It does seem to make all the difference when compared to the vertical lengths of retaining wall often seen. Can I ask what treatment you have given/are giving the top face of the pillars? Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Reply Test I t worked! I have tried three time to post the response below [if it come out....] I simply got a message in red saying 'You must enter a post...' three times...sob D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Thanks for your kind words....here is a view of the complete run of wall, just resting in place prior to further weathering, piercing for drains etc. Phil, the top faces of the pillars are covered with a small piece of the soldier course of the same brick paper, [amazingly, just 7mm wide....] folded double over a dab of PVA, glued on top with more PVA and then the corners 'bullied' over with the handle of my knife before the PVA dries. Then when dry, touched up with a watercolour pencil, rubbed on dry and then smeared downwards with a damp finger. [i spit on my finger....., really...] I make the fold face outwards, a bit of bull-shine but it seems to work. Amdaley, I use 3mm for this thickness wall. it coincides with the real 9" thickness of this sort of wall,and is the maximum thickness of wall top you can convincingly cover with the soldier course from a Scalescenes brick paper. I'm just butting them up against the pillars, but I always prime the end of the panels with neat PVA and allow them to dry for a few minutes before gluing them up. I forgot to say that 3mm balsa wood [1/8" roughly, in old money], works just as well. Stubby, I simply sandpaper the top of the 3mm stuff to a semi-circle. Then, I prime the curved top with PVA to seal the curved surface and stop it slurpin' up the glue that you put on the paper. The trick I have found is to give the strip of paper a good coat of PVA, then leave it alone. Initially it will curve up in the wrong direction as the top [inner] layer of paper expands, but having been left a few moments it will go flat again. Then, with the paper on the desk, lower the card over the very centre of the strip and press evenly over the entire length. Then, simply fold down evenly each side. [Giggle....chuckle...'simply'.. it's a sod to do!] roll lightly when in position. Then apply the face paper up to the edge of the capping and roll flat together. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 That's excellent Doug.Looking forward to seeing more of your efforts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benbow Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 That looks seriously good! Just shows what a great effect you can get with skill and good brick papers. Well done. Regards Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Thank you, Roger, here's a picture of the wall in a posed scene, I'm happy with the resilt, and with the factory wall after advice here. Quite what the coal wagon is doing, braked, on the main line I don't know! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benbow Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Looks even better in situ! Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 Further to the straight walls, herewith a little gate and steps to avoid the signalman and shed crew walking the half-mile to the station entrance and back again to get to work. The spear top gate is florists wire flattened in my smooth pliers and then filed up, fitted in micro-strip rails, the papers are Brown Brick [stretcher] TX11 and Red Brick TX01, soldier courses from each sheet too. The steps are 3mm cream mount-board, the pillar caps are 2mm pasteboard, sealed with shellac prior to weathering overall with watercolour paint. The door is a Chivers Fineline door used without its frame, and the black line drawn underneath makes the suggestion of a dark space behind it a little more credible. It will face onto the ash-pit area, so is suitably 'grubby'. When fitted to the layout it will have a bracket yard light, and a conduit and switch for the interior light plus hose reels etc. The mating surface between the steps, string-course and battered wall was done by the highly technical method of 'carve-orf-a-bit-till-it-fits', which is why it took two attempts and one Elastoplast! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustermark Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Another fantastic bit of modelling to want to emulate! I just love the detail with the top layer of blue brick and the gate. The weathering of the damp at the base too. Superb! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Howe Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I am loving following this thread and your other one on the mill building Doug. I find myself very curious to open that door and poke around under your steps to see what's there. And don't spoil the fantasy by telling me it's a chunk of balsa! Keep it up; I'm getting a lot of inspiration from your modelling. Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Here it is in place, thank you for your kind remarks. I am getting really frustrated, printer packed up recently, and boring things like house/car insurance and the winter wood have to paid for first! Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaternosterRow Posted September 1, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 1, 2011 Absolutely superb! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustermark Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Fantastic - again. I love the light and the switch and the conduit by the door, the weathering on the brickwork. Just fantastic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeWB Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 Great stuff ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, george Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
landscapes Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Hi Doug I have just found your thread for the first time. Very nice work indeed with lots of good detailing. Regards David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bri.s Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Just been guided to this thread and wow Awesome stuff Really like the steps shows what you can do with scale scenes papers Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryB Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Here it is in place, thank you for your kind remarks. I am getting really frustrated, printer packed up recently, and boring things like house/car insurance and the winter wood have to paid for first! gate5.jpg Doug Looks fantastic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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