hayfield Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Regarding adjustment of the check rail: have decided to shy away from this as the problem is with the tight gauge settings of the loco and not the track work i.e. anything over 14.30 mm is compatible and in no way do I want to compromise this (I'd rather retire the M7 - sadly). However, I think all may well have been rectified as the result of a query placed on the 'Questions' forum. Essentially, I was advised to place a pair of small flat ended screwdrivers either side of a wheelset between the wheel and chassis and....ahum!....gently ease ea ch wheel outwards. After mustering a little courage earlier this morning, I set about my task and after one squeeze, the drivers were squeezed out to 14.31 and 14.32 mm respectively - and there doesn't appear to have been any damage caused - still going round square and true, so I'll consider it a success Also took the opportunity to clean the wheelsets with a cotton bud dipped in white spirit while I was at it, so I shall retest a little later and publish the results. In any case, whether it works or not, I'm not giving up on the 'OO-SF' approach and have decided to purchase a set of gauges to make life easier. It will be a shame if the M7 is deemed redundant but consider it an acceptable sacrifice in my quest for smooth running - simply flabbergasted by the performance of a variety proprietary stock over the points in the video made by the owner of 'Eastwood Town'. Jonte Jonte If all else fails buy 2 Markit replacement axles (one knarled one for the gear)and a set of Drivers and your loco will be as good as new if not better. I brought an earlier Hornby version where the wheels had been changed to Romford/Markits ones in EM gauge. The only problem was that he broke the pickup plate, wheel conversion is fine. Just waiting for me to build a new one out of PCB. 21mm wheels were used with original coupling rods. Might be worth looking out for for a set of wheels on Ebay. With Romfords some use a size 1mm smaller as the flanges are quite big, but with 00 and the Hornby body this should not be a problem. Scale crankpins and coupling rods would improve the looks further, but you have to stop somewhere Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Hi Jonte, Click the Flip or Mirror options on your printer to print them right-handed. regards, Martin. Most benevolent of you, Martin. Thank you. Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Jonte If all else fails buy 2 Markit replacement axles (one knarled one for the gear)and a set of Drivers and your loco will be as good as new if not better. I brought an earlier Hornby version where the wheels had been changed to Romford/Markits ones in EM gauge. The only problem was that he broke the pickup plate, wheel conversion is fine. Just waiting for me to build a new one out of PCB. 21mm wheels were used with original coupling rods. Might be worth looking out for for a set of wheels on Ebay. With Romfords some use a size 1mm smaller as the flanges are quite big, but with 00 and the Hornby body this should not be a problem. Scale crankpins and coupling rods would improve the looks further, but you have to stop somewhere So that's how it's done! At least there's an option if those goes pear shaped, so thank you, John. Still haven't managed to get round to testing the widened gauge on my new piece of track; been sidetracked I'm afraid. Will report back tomorow. Bestest, Jonte. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R A Watson Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Jonte, Sorry about the late reply but I have just re-read the thread and noticed you saying; "Found the longer switch rails a bit of a problem this time, though, and had to replace the thicker tie bar - this would have been more robust, I feel - with the slimmer version you see. Problem two fold: the rails wouldn't close tightly enough against the stock rails, and at one point while soldering, a rail became soldered to the stock rail DESPITE using a rather thick sliver of paper between them. Don't know how anybody else goes about this, but the procedure I adopted to ensure a wide enough flangeway between switch and stock rails AND ensure that the switches closed tightly against the stock rails, was to solder the straight switch first while it was aginst it's respective stock rail. Then, place a PCB sleeper between the newly soldered straight switch and it's stockrail; then solder the curved switch to the tie bar, again while resting against it's respective tie bar. Does anybody do it differently?" Perhaps this may help. You will see that instead of a solid sleeper tie bar the two ends are replaced with L shaped wire soldered to both the shortened sleeper and the inside web of the switches allowing the flex you do not get with a solidly soldered unit and helping the rails to close up paralell. As an added advantage you can subsequently adjust rail gap by remaking the joint where the individual wire attaches to the sleeper and not disturb the rail end fixing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Jonte, Sorry about the late reply but I have just re-read the thread and noticed you saying; "Found the longer switch rails a bit of a problem this time, though, and had to replace the thicker tie bar - this would have been more robust, I feel - with the slimmer version you see. Problem two fold: the rails wouldn't close tightly enough against the stock rails, and at one point while soldering, a rail became soldered to the stock rail DESPITE using a rather thick sliver of paper between them. Don't know how anybody else goes about this, but the procedure I adopted to ensure a wide enough flangeway between switch and stock rails AND ensure that the switches closed tightly against the stock rails, was to solder the straight switch first while it was aginst it's respective stock rail. Then, place a PCB sleeper between the newly soldered straight switch and it's stockrail; then solder the curved switch to the tie bar, again while resting against it's respective tie bar. Does anybody do it differently?" Perhaps this may help. You will see that instead of a solid sleeper tie bar the two ends are replaced with L shaped wire soldered to both the shortened sleeper and the inside web of the switches allowing the flex you do not get with a solidly soldered unit and helping the rails to close up paralell. As an added advantage you can subsequently adjust rail gap by remaking the joint where the individual wire attaches to the sleeper and not disturb the rail end fixing. Hello, sir. My turn to apologise; haven't revisited lately so only just discovered this excellent idea. Thank you. I shall try and fettle something as described. It certainly allows the flexibility a novice builder requires when things get sticky !!!! Best wishes and thanks again, Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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