RMweb Gold Garry D100 Posted March 10, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2010 Cheapest price I have seen is £375, very tempting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Cheapest price I have seen is £375, very tempting Who was that, was it trader or some one at a show, I wonder how much for a pair!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Garry D100 Posted March 11, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 11, 2010 No, was not a show special. From a well established retail business. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Williams Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 I might get a pair once I finish my JLTRT Class 20s/26/40s & 50 for comparison including pulling ability. They will be nice all dirtied up in blue with Howes sound in them! By that time they might have dropped a tad more in price like the 47s did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 No, was not a show special. From a well established retail business. Any details of the business? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Hi all, in view of the fact that the 20's ran in pairs for a great deal of their lives, I would have thought that Heljan would have also offered an 'un-powered' version - 4 motors (nearly 4 amps) on the length of most model layouts is a bit excesive. They would certainly sell! regards Mike 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
english electric Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 might be worth telling Heljan that, and would make sense to offer a dummy version with out motors cause i would be interested in a couple Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Garry D100 Posted March 13, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2010 Any details of the business? Sorry, doh! Hereford Model Centre, £375 plus £3 p&p Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Housey_D444 Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I'm very happy with my pair from Tower, the one is weatherd,just a shame that one transfer is very slightly 'on the P'. Will look great once i can afford a few more wagons to put behind it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Hi all, I have just had this reply from Heljan UK to my question regarding 'unpowered' 20s "Sorry, no. The cost of NOT fitting a motor is actually minimal in terms of production so little saving would be made on the 'end' price. Regards, Heljan UK" so watch out for overheating on your controllers. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I have put a bit of muck on my Heljan 20057 now. A couple of shots of it inbetween 2 JLTRT 20's for comparison. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Garry D100 Posted March 19, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2010 Hi all, I have just had this reply from Heljan UK to my question regarding 'unpowered' 20s "Sorry, no. The cost of NOT fitting a motor is actually minimal in terms of production so little saving would be made on the 'end' price. Regards, Heljan UK" so watch out for overheating on your controllers. regards Mike Just a thought, but if thats the way some people would like to go, ie have an unpowered 20 in the pair, why not "depower" it yourself and sell/reuse the motors elsewhere? Surely you could get £20 for a good 7mm motor on ebay, theres £40 to offset off the cost of the 20 :-) 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Housey_D444 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 very nice Brian! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Just a thought, but if thats the way some people would like to go, ie have an unpowered 20 in the pair, why not "depower" it yourself and sell/reuse the motors elsewhere? Surely you could get £20 for a good 7mm motor on ebay, theres £40 to offset off the cost of the 20 :-) It's a very easy job to remove one of the motors once the body is removed. The motors are held in place by a clamp and by simply slackening the clamp screw the motor will just lift away from the bogie. John 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tetsudofan Posted March 24, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 24, 2010 Sorry, doh! Hereford Model Centre, £375 plus £3 p&p Thanks to Garry's posting I've made my first foray into "0" - on it's way from Hereford is a Class 20 and three Mark.I coaches - at £100 less than that offered by my regular supplier of Heljan OO. No chance of an "O" layout here at home (no space with my OO/HO indoors and 45mm outdoors ) so the Cl.20 and coaches will stretch their legs on the outdoors track at the Romney Marsh Model Engineering Society...... Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRGREWCOCK Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Hi folks, Andi Walshaw (of Cairnsroadworks) has kindly modelled, detailed, and weathered my two Heljan O Gauge 20's to represent Warrington/Wigan pairing 20016+20081 as they were in the last year that they worked on the North West Coal Circuit in 1992/1993. I think he has done an excellent job!!! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
english electric Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 what is the best way to remove the 2 big windows and do they prize out towards you or do you remove them from inside ? Why i ask is because is ive got one sat at home waiting for me for when i get home later Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Get a knife blade under the bottom edge and prize them out. They are only a push fit in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
english electric Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 Thank you for that Brian, i was bit unsure how they removed, i only had a quick look at the model this morning before i had to dash to catch a train, weekend project to do some of the modifications you have posted earlier in this thread. Most helpful like the class 37 one you did, that helped a lot and thanks again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Garry D100 Posted July 25, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2010 Got a green one of these on the way. I fancy mine being a late crested one so has anyone any advice on removing the early BR roundel from the bodyside? I'm not familiar with removing printing from Heljan models, hoping it might be as easy as it is for Bachmann products :-) Thanks in advance for any advice. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazza Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 I have just finished detailing up the Heljan 20 a little bit. It's generaly bufferbeam stuff to do. The first thing to do is take it apart. This done by unscrewing the chassis via 4 shiny screws then to remove the cab from the body you have to use a sharp knife blade to prize the 2 large rear windows out. Then there are 2 screws in the cab front to undo. The 2 small front windows pushed out ok but the side windows are glued in to much to remove them. With the front and back windows removed it's easy to paint the window rubber edge black. I replaced the 2 handrails on the rear with a couple of spare castings I had from my previous JLTRT kits but should be an easy job to bend a piece of wire and make a support for it. I also painted out the silver window frame. The BR Blue version needs the yellow painting round the corner of the cab a bit further so I used Railmatch 304 Yellow with a bit of orange in it to get a pretty good match. Also unscrewed the rad fan and painted that red. The cab interior was removed and painted in suitable colours. Further along the body I painted the small handles blue and put a better curve in the long handrail at the front. On the bufferbeams I replaced the airpipes with some JLTRT under bufferbeam fitting ones and cut off the MU cable from the jumper and replaced it with rubber tubing and also lowered the socket on the right hand side of the buffer. The buffers are from JLTRT as well. I replaced the speedo on the axle end with a spare JLTRT one as well. You could add some pipe work around either side of the battery box if you want but I have done all I want to on this except for a bit of muck of course. I have removed a black and a blue wire from the terminal block to disconnect the red tail lights as I don't want these on with a train behind it. It's a bit of trial and errtr as to which 2 black and blue wire to disconnect. I put a bit of yellow paint on the white LEDs as well to tone them down a bit and some black paint on the covered over disc LEDs as they were shining through the yellow disc! One thing though don't put the steps on untill you have finished doing it up as I now need a new set All in all a nice loco. There are a couple of pictures of it next to a JLTRT 20. I have used a few bits I know from JLTRT but I had them in the spares box so I should use them. I don't know if they would do a "bufferbeam detailing set" for sale? Hi Brian, you have said that you have turned of the red tail lights so it doesn't look out of place on a loaded train, but is there any way these can be sorted and used as directional lighting, is there a module via DCC or via a functional decoder, so you can use the loco to its fully function capabilities, surely for the cost of the loco Heljan would have sorted this by now, have you got a shot of the two wires you pulled from the module to disengage the lights from working continuous Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Digital Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Hi Brian, you have said that you have turned of the red tail lights so it doesn't look out of place on a loaded train, but is there any way these can be sorted and used as directional lighting, is there a module via DCC or via a functional decoder, so you can use the loco to its fully function capabilities, surely for the cost of the loco Heljan would have sorted this by now, have you got a shot of the two wires you pulled from the module to disengage the lights from working continuous If running the Heljan Class 20 on DCC and therefore fitting a decoder to the loco the lights can be wired and configured so that they can operate directional or independent. This is what I have done to my Heljan Class 20 and 37's. Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Gazza, the only Heljan loco I have put a sound chip in is my Hymek and on that I took the old board out and just replaced it with the ESU sound board and then hard wired the lights to the relevant function outputs with resistors for the led's. I know others on here have used the Heljan board and added a chip to it but I am affraid I have not. I did not take a picture of the wires I pulled out but it is not much of a job to do. Just follow a wire from the red led back to the light board and unscrew it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASMAIR Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Can anyone tell me if it is possible and how simple it is to fit a DCC chip and sound chip to the Class 20? If so, where can I obtain insructions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiDAS Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Here are basic instructions for ESU 3.5 XL No1 end pick-up Red and no 2 end pick-up black, connect to TrL on decoder. No1 end pick-up black and no2 end pick up red to TrR on decoder No1 end motor red and No 2 end motor black, to M+ on decoder No 1 end motor black and No 2 end motor red to M- on decoder No1 and 2 end lighting red wires to U+ on decoder No1 end yellow and no2 end black to RL on decoder No1 end black and No2 end yellow to FL on decoder Connect red fan wire to U+ and black to Ax1 on the decoder. LS+ and LS- to speaker in area provided under loco. Decoder will fit sideways on into area below where original PCB board was fitted. You will have to extend a couple of wires. No1 end is cab end Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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