2mm Andy Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 I've been meaning to set up some sort of workbench thread here in the 2mm group area for some time now. What I eventually decided to try and do is to cover some of the things that have appeared on my blog up to now. The title of the thread might give you a clue as to what those things will be! First project to feature is the Stephen Harris 'mermaid' ballast hopper kit. Two of these arrived a couple of weeks ago, and I've been itching to get started on them, but wanted to get a few older projects finished first. Having got eight other wagons into primer in the last week, with a couple more well on the way to finishing , I felt it was time to start on the mermaid. The kit will build either the BR version or the GWR version. What you get - resin body, chassis etch and illustrated instructions. Wheels, bearings, buffers and odd lengths of wire are required to complete. Chassis sides folded up, bearings in, and wheels temporarily fitted. Ribs added to chassis, with brake shoe etches ready to be added. The above represents about 45 mins work. All the etched parts fit together beautifully, only requiring removal of the remnants of the tags. The biggest problem I had was ensuring the ribs were square to the floor while I soldered them up! All soldering so far is with my usual 25w Antex iron and syringe of Carrs 179 solder paste. More to follow tomorrow hopefully. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted July 30, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2011 That looks a cracking job - hard to believe it is 2mm. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryn Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 You're a bad, bad man Andy! I've put off building mine for over a year, but this might be the straw that breaks the camels back. You've made an excellent job of the chassis so far, I'll be following future progress with great interest! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 You're a bad, bad man Andy! I've put off building mine for over a year, but this might be the straw that breaks the camels back. You've made an excellent job of the chassis so far, I'll be following future progress with great interest! Thanks chaps! A bit more progress/temptation this evening - the brake gear is now in place on the inner chassis and I added a bit more solder to the ribs on the chassis - they weren't very well fixed originally. I don't know if it's just me, but I always seem to find it difficult to solder the vacuum cylinder to the chassis - it normally takes two or three goes (and scorched fingers) to get a decent soldered joint and get it vertical in both planes. Anyway, I got there eventually! Next job is the outer chassis. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Fantastic Andy! Like Bryn I have a few of these lurking around, trying to avoid the 'gloat box' but I think I will wait a little before starting them until you have posted a few more photos! Missy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 Thanks Missy - one more update on this evening's progress! Axlebox/spring assemblies are by Stephen's usual method - three layers of etch, all located by two 2mm top hat bearings in the corners. The three layers are sweated together, then, by cutting a tab, a fourth layer (bottom right of photo) folds up and over onto the top of the three layers. A fifth layer (top right of photo) is then folded over on top of this to produce the axlebox front. The final results waiting to be cleaned up and cut out of the etch surround. Meanwhile, the outer chassis was folded up into a Z shape (not without some difficulty) and the bufferbeams folded down. The inner chassis was then tack soldered into the recess in the outer chassis. The footsteps in opposite corners were also formed (not very well - I will revisit these). Next jobs include adding brake levers and lever guides and axlebox assemblies. I have a feeling that painting this little lot is going to be more than interesting! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted July 31, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2011 I don't know if it's just me, but I always seem to find it difficult to solder the vacuum cylinder to the chassis - it normally takes two or three goes (and scorched fingers) to get a decent soldered joint and get it vertical in both planes. Anyway, I got there eventually! I know just where you are coming from with the vacuum cylinders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Lovely handiwork Andy! Are you going to brush paint? I wrestle with the tread v blog idea.. however think I will stick with blog for moment Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 Hi Kris, I think it's because the vacuum cylinder turning is so big compared to the chassis, plus it's brass, so tends to soak up the heat from the soldering iron quite a bit. I don't like gluing them as there are still bits to be soldered afterwards, and fumes from hot superglue are horrible! Tom, I suspect it will end-up being brush painted. The thought of trying to get a decent coverage of paint into all those nooks and crannies using an aerosol or airbrush scares me! I just fancied creating a thread in the 2mm area rather than using my original blog. I know there are some RMweb members who don't read the blogs, so this may reach a few more people, plus I wanted to support the 2mm group area a bit more. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2011 Andy if you have a suitable torch with a small flame playing the flame on the large brass casting can do the job. I have a jewllers microflame unit and it works well for chimneys. Mind you that only makes the problem of holding it in place worse Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Hi Don, I can see the advantages on a big casting like a chimney, but it might be overkill on something this small. Anyway, on the home straight now. Brake levers and guides added, cradles for hopper body soldered in place and buffers added. The resin body is fitted in place temporarily - it needs to come off for painting, but I wanted to check the fit and see how the operating levers (not added yet) fitted. (the 'shark' brake van on the right has had it's wheels removed while i paint the body, so it's sitting a bit low) Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2011 Looks excellant Andy. Pixie has a couple of these set aside for me so I have been following this with interest. I'm keen to put a short ballast train together to go behind the Hymek when I run Highbury in mid 60's mode. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Very nice work there Andy - I've got a little stash of these to batch build one day soon, looks like you've highlighted a couple of areas to watch out for. Must finish everything first though... must do that... Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Andy if you have a suitable torch with a small flame playing the flame on the large brass casting can do the job. I have a jewllers microflame unit and it works well for chimneys. Mind you that only makes the problem of holding it in place worse Don An RSU does these very nicely. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Very nice work there Andy - I've got a little stash of these to batch build one day soon, looks like you've highlighted a couple of areas to watch out for. Must finish everything first though... must do that... Pix I think we all know we should do that latter point . If you do find you bought too many of these though it'd look nice behind the minerals... I really must get on with a 4mm one sometime, its such a unique design. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Thanks for the comments guys. I think Pixie must be on commission from Stephen Harris for selling his wagon kits! Stephen did include a note with the kits to say that he had a few spares of the mermaids - drop him a line if you want some Craig. I haven't tried a RSU on the vacuum cylinders - I'll have to give that a go. Thanks for the tip, Chris! I did have a major sort of the gloat box before I started this, so I don't feel too guilty. I still have a lot to finish though, including a huge stack of wagons waiting to be painted! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 I think we all know we should do that latter point . I'm very good at getting the bodies done and the chassis folded up where the time in/obvious result ratio is high, it's the little bits like the brake levers and things were the ratio plumits that I tend to stop and start something else. The pile of coke hoppers and 16T minerals all sat at this stage are good evidence. I guess I could do some tonight... ...or go sit in a nice country pub garden whilst the sun goes down. Bah, modelling can wait until the sun goes away. B) Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 I've been pretty good at doing nothing tangible of late. Some computer modelling that hasn't borne fruit yet (and I'm in danger of distracting myself further with it) doesn't really count does it? Previously I've been reasonably good about putting together most of what is on an etch or sprue and then moving on to the next without finding/making the other bits and that's before getting around to putting some primer on and starting a paint job. I must must must get some things finished but there is temptation to start some locomotives I'd actually like to have long term rather than detail those I have part finished, and the layout needs attention too because it has advanced nothing for over a year. (Actually it has moved backward because some inconsiderate fidgetbum managed to remove a switch blade at Ally Pally and I haven't put it back yet). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 ...or go sit in a nice country pub garden whilst the sun goes down. Bah, modelling can wait until the sun goes away. B) Pix At least you got to watch the sun go down - I got home from work, started to walk down the road to see 46115 take water on the Scarborough Spa Express, and promptly got drenched when it chucked it down with rain! I didn't get as far as the loco before I decided it wasn't worth getting that wet! And I haven't done any modelling tonight either! Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrislock Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Andy if you have a suitable torch with a small flame playing the flame on the large brass casting can do the job. I have a jewllers microflame unit and it works well for chimneys. Mind you that only makes the problem of holding it in place worse Don Don, have you used those little burners which use cigarette lighters inside? I saw one in Maplins the other day and was intrigued, though at £12.99 wasn't going to be a speculative purchase. I wonder if they might be useful for attaching castings to 2mm locos, which are always a pain for me. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 In a effort not to go wildly off topic, well just a bit.. I am bit further North than you at mo Andy and tonight is the first time we have seen the sun since I cam I think.. been hearing about lovely sunny weather just hasn't been over the Dales.. Pixie the sunset and pint sounds an excellent idea.. why put off today what you can put off tomorrow.. Back to wagons and I have a bunch of 20t NER Hoppers to build with chassis and no destructions, going to take em to railexne see if the fellas there can point me in right direction Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Back to wagons and I have a bunch of 20t NER Hoppers to build with chassis and no destructions, going to take em to railexne see if the fellas there can point me in right direction Tom Sunny today, although I still managed to get rained on twice! Instructions for the NER hopper wagon chassis are on the 2mm homepage - go to the shop 2 page and click on the little i icon next to item 2-325. It should contain a link to the instruction sheet. If you want any more info, there is an article in a 2mm magazine back-number, but it describes an earlier version of the kit. so the information isn't all relevant to the current kit. Failing that, there's a good chance that there will be someone on the 2mm stand who has built one of these kits. HTH Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofanenvelope Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Thanks Andy! will check out when I'm back and able to get on with things... Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 5, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2011 Don, have you used those little burners which use cigarette lighters inside? I saw one in Maplins the other day and was intrigued, though at £12.99 wasn't going to be a speculative purchase. I wonder if they might be useful for attaching castings to 2mm locos, which are always a pain for me. Chris I have got one of those smallish one sold by C+L but the flame is quite big for 2mm work. I now have a jewellers Microflame unit not cheap. If uses electricity to split water to obtain hydrogen this is then bubbled through MEK to reduce the flame temperature and achieves a very fine flame about 20-25mm long and 2-3mm dia but very hot. If you are referring to white metal castings onto bras try tinning the brass with low melt then place the wm castings and apply heat from the other side of the brass until the low melt solder melts. If you are talking about brass castings these often need lots of heat. The trick is to get the heat into the casting and not the rest of the model. If you can find something with a small enough flame that it will not unsolder the rest of the model that would do the trick. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted August 11, 2011 Author Share Posted August 11, 2011 A little update on things. I managed to get a few days off work recently, and in between visiting friends and family (and model railway exhibitions and steam railways!) made a bit of progress on a few more gloat box residents; The 21t mineral just needs buffers adding before it can join the queue for the paintshop. It was built using an RSU and solder paste, hence the very clean finish (except the inside corners where I blathered solder everywhere!). I added the vacuum cylinder using the RSU as per Chris Higgs' tip and it worked very well. This is a North Eastern Road Van, and is built from an etch designed by a fellow North East Area Group member. It's etched in thinner nickel silver (8 thou) than usual and has some really delicate details (which was one of the reasons I wanted to use the RSU to assemble it). There is still quite a lot of work to do on this one, but it's getting there slowly. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.