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Non-railway modelling


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30 minutes ago, BernardTPM said:

I do remember seeing those kits in Beatties, so I'd guess late '70s or early '80s for date.

 

A quick trawl round google suggests 1985-ish for the original release, with reissues in the 2000s. This seems to be an original issue. I’ve found a couple of forum posts showing them built, including one rather splendid one with the legs extended to the seabed... there’s one on eBay asking £100 with no bids. 

 

First thing to do is check all the parts. 

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Some 1:48 scale Cranberries - a mixture of Falcon and Aeroclub vac-forms and Airfix and Classic Airframes kits.

 

2143549A-2867-4DFD-B0B6-339F973141E7.jpeg.2dbd92c6a534e1167dc6d1863fc0fb8e.jpeg

 

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Cheers

 

Darius

Edited by Darius43
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Ahh, I'm not the only aero modeller here then!

 

I just finished this:

 

DSCF9939.JPG

 

It's a Roden kit modified to represent N500

 

DSCF9940.JPG

 

Some bits modified, and a new empennage made:

 

empennage-1.JPG

 

The Roden kit has a major problem, the fuselage is too short for the production Tripes, there is an aftermarket kit to fix that. The alternative is to make the parts to match the fuselage. I rarely go for the easy option :superstition:

 

DSCF9941.JPG

 

Richard

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Nice work.  

 

What do you use for the rigging?  I have used Aerovlub stretchy rigging thread in the past but have noticed that it degrades over time, possibly due to UV.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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27 minutes ago, Darius43 said:

Nice work.  

 

What do you use for the rigging?  I have used Aerovlub stretchy rigging thread in the past but have noticed that it degrades over time, possibly due to UV.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

 

That's invisible thread with Bob's Buckles eyelets and tubes. I'm just starting to make my own eyelets and experimenting with what size tool to use


The exceptions are bits of copper wire between the ailerons and the horns, and a couple of pieces of flat etch to link the ailerons together from RB Productions. I'm afraid I don't have the rigging diagram for N500, so I used the first size that came to hand...

 

Richard

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1/24th Airfix Focke-Wulfe FW190 under construction.

 

focke1.jpg.c14a101d09cebd20044a022baa2ef5b7.jpg

 

focke2.jpg.61b12abf7e8425361bb2207293082810.jpg

 

I gather there's an issue with the engine being a bit too long as assembled, so I've omitted one of the intermediate parts so that the spinner and fan are in the right relation with the front cowling, still to be fitted. I'm glad I looked up someone else's build as left to myself I'd never have found out until it was too late!

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This is what's giving me a break from railway modelling at the moment:

 

DSCF9948.JPG

 

She's a 1/32 scratchbuilt Neiuport X seaplane that I've been working at on and off for ages. I've already done the floats

 

Float-14.JPG

 

Float-16.JPG

 

It's slowly nearing completion

 

Richard

 

 

 

 

Edited by RLWP
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On ‎20‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 00:00, Nile said:

When it comes to reducing the pile of unbuilt kits, being able to display two models in the same space is a good thing. A tank transporter is ideal as they don't normally come with a load. Here I've combined a Revell (ex-Matchbox) M19 with an Airfix Churchill mk.VII.

MB_01.JPG.6869018ad3cd63162134fe72ecbf1b81.JPG

I could add more stuff to the back of the tractor but I've got other models to build. Lots more.

Very nice work here..

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2 hours ago, RLWP said:

How do you find working with Vacform, Darius?  I've never tried it but have been curious - it looks like scratchbuilding with some of the difficult shapes done for you

 

Richard

 

Hi Richard,

 

I started on some very old-school Airways and Falcon vac-formed kits that required a degree of scratch building.

 

If starting now I would recommend the 1:48 Dynavector kits as they are as close to an injection molded kit as you can get and so are a good starter.  These are out of production but still pop up on eBay.

 

You will need to do a lot of sanding to get the parts to fit once cut from the backing sheet.   A protection mask for the resultant plastic dust is a must.

 

The following link should be helpful.

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234983173-building-vacformed-models/

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Test fitting of engine panels on the FW190, all just resting in place for now. 

 

The kit has a reputation for being hard to build due to its age and the quality of the moulds, but I'm quite enjoying it; other than the issue

with the engine being too long if built as intended, the fit of the main parts is a bit iffy in places but nothing that a bit of careful filling

can't alleviate. I've test fitted the wings and can see that some spacing material will be needed to ensure alignment at the wing roots,

but it's nothing too tricky if you've built the average loco kit! Luckily I have a huge stash of plastic sheet and rod for these sorts of job so

I'm not overly worried about the remaining steps.

 

The main decision still to be made is whether I arrange for any part of the engine to be visible.

 

focke3.jpg.1f8b40083f997c3fb0f4ee171256c767.jpg

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On with the show:

 

focke1.jpg.978911ed90e335faa500af35295382fb.jpg

 

focke2.jpg.6ceccb067c7c01c1ed56ecb145bb6ccf.jpg

 

 

Lots of Mr Surfacer used to sort out various gaps and irregularities, but we're getting there. I decided not to make any panels removable as getting them

all nicely aligned was a fight but far easier when at least I could glue them together.

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Some very impressive modelling in this thread. :good:I especially like the Avro York a page or two back, my grandfather was a W/Op on Yorks at the end of the war. Prior to that he did a tour on Lancs with 101 Sqn. 

 

I have a question (or two) for the experts, if I may? I haven’t really dabbled in kits since my childhood, but I’ve dug a few kits out of the archive that I would like to build. I have become aware of the trick of varnishing before and after applying decals, but I’ve never practised it. Typically I’d expect to use satin for the final coat, but one of the kits (a Mitsubishi Ki-15) has a metallic finish. Would a gloss topcoat be appropriate for this finish?

 

Second question, the decals with the Ki-15 are probably older than I am. Is there a reliable go-to source for after-market decals where I may look for replacements?

 

Thanks

 

 

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1 hour ago, Titanius Anglesmith said:

Some very impressive modelling in this thread. :good:I especially like the Avro York a page or two back, my grandfather was a W/Op on Yorks at the end of the war. Prior to that he did a tour on Lancs with 101 Sqn. 

 

I have a question (or two) for the experts, if I may? I haven’t really dabbled in kits since my childhood, but I’ve dug a few kits out of the archive that I would like to build. I have become aware of the trick of varnishing before and after applying decals, but I’ve never practised it. Typically I’d expect to use satin for the final coat, but one of the kits (a Mitsubishi Ki-15) has a metallic finish. Would a gloss topcoat be appropriate for this finish?

 

Second question, the decals with the Ki-15 are probably older than I am. Is there a reliable go-to source for after-market decals where I may look for replacements?

 

Thanks

 

 

Google Hannants.co.uk, they're the plastic modellers equivalent of mainly trains or hattons, if a set exists they'll stock it. I'd link but not on a great connection at mo. 

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20 minutes ago, slow8dirty said:

Google Hannants.co.uk, they're the plastic modellers equivalent of mainly trains or hattons, if a set exists they'll stock it. I'd link but not on a great connection at mo. 

 

And be aware, you are teetering on the edge of a scary aspect of any modelling. What's going to happen is this:

 

You search for appropriate decals and find a really attractive scheme. Only then you find it is for a different mark/block/series of aeroplane to the one you are modelling. But there is an aftermarket resin kit that will correct the model to be the mark/block/series you want. And the kit also includes some other part to 'improve' the accuracy, so you'll fit that too. Meanwhile you found an aftermarket cockpit/landing gear/missile pack/gun installation/ejector seat/pilot that you just have to have. Oh, and you ought to buy some books about the model while you are at it, and you've found a really neat walkaround on the internet that shows some really nice piping details in some obscure area that you ought to represent

 

Pretty soon, you've replaced 90% of the kit, spent four times the original cost and all the 'research' material weighs ten times the original model

 

Ask me how I know this...

 

:help:

 

Richard

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2 hours ago, sir douglas said:

i was once given a kit that was 20 years old and half of the decals disintegrated on contact with the water

 

I think one of the Micro Sol products ("decal restorer" or something) can be brushed over the decal sheet beforehand to prevent that happening.

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