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Etched Kit Construction - SH Catfish


Bryn

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After my quick post on how I construct DG couplings, I thought it might be of interest to some people how I go about making etched wagons. The example used here is a Stephen Harris Catfish ballast wagon, chosen because of it's complex hopper and open framed chassis. This isn't meant to be a step by step, more of a general guide to how I go about some of the more common aspects of soldered construction.

 

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The etch as it comes, along with a model finished over 4 years ago.

 

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Before removing anything from the main etch I drill out anything that needs opening out. I like to drill into a scrap of plasticard, this gives a firm base to stop the component from warping.

 

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To remove a part from the carrier tabs I use a newblade and angle the blade into the component and gently move the blade in a sawing action on the tab. If you're pressing the component into the cutting mat, you're applying too much pressure! Another method is to use a hard surface and a chisel blade to remove the tabs.

 

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For doing larger folds I use my home made jig, which is simply a long straight clamping edge.

 

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However, a vice and a set square are also valuable tools for producing nice even folds.

 

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Sometimes limited clearance will always prevail! A good quality pair of smooth jaw piers are worth their weight in gold. Long bends can be formed by working left to right many times, bending a tiny angle each pass.

 

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When forming any shape, before soldering' it is important to get the folds as near to their final position as possible. Otherwise too much heat in the wrong place later on will cause the whole thing to spring apart. As spectacular as this may look, it's never a good thing...

 

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This is my scriber, cut from an old Exacto razor blade saw and mounted in an Exacto handle. I use this to open out fold lines and to deepen them. The advantage of deepening fold lines is that the bend becomes much easier to form. This is very useful when a part needs multiple bends (like the hopper side walls), the first fold from the base is done normally and is quite rigid once formed, the second is deepened and can now be easily formed without the risk of changing the angle of the first rigid fold. If that makes any sense!

 

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When soldering things like this hopper, I like to tack solder the bottom (or top if it was the correct way up, as on the chassis) and then tweak the other folds before final soldering takes place.

 

 

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My method for fitting top hat bearings is to ream out the holes in the w-irons before removing the chassis from the the main etch and test a bearing for size. Once the chassis is folded up I will fit the bearing by supporting it on a block of tufnol with a hole in it. A soldering iron can then be used to press down on the bearing and solder applied. This ensures a nice square fitment.

 

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Forming sole bar U sections can be a bit of a pain. This is the method Stephen advised me to use. First start of each fold to around 60 degrees with some bending bars or a vice, then using 2 set squares crush the channel to finish it off.

 

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For smaller details I like to try stick them in place with a blob of solder paste and heat the area along side to form a solid joint. Not 100% reliable, but it does have it uses.

 

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If you don't want your small detail to float about in a sea solder, CLAMP IT DOWN! I use a pair of stainless steel tweezers, so the solder won't stick to them. Sometimes outside the box thinking is required, but there is always a way to clamp things.

 

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Quite a simple one to finish off. Hole alignment. Use whatever comes to hand; wire, pins, drill bits etc.

 

Now your turn! Any other methods or ideas welcome, but ultimately I want to see those kits dusted off and up on your blogs!

 

I'm waiting :whistle:

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Catfish by the end of the week? Would look nice along side your mermaid.

 

Possibly. I had a root around in the gloat box and found this:

 

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I'd started this a while ago, and put it aside to work on something else. Reckon it might give me a bit of a head start!

 

Andy

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What you're missing Pix is the "4 years" date in most posts. I'm not proactive, just the finishing dates have all seemed to overlap. Normal service shall resume shortly! I did like the Dogfish you had at StormEx, great start.

 

Shall we have a race gentlemen? You are both at the same stage, near enough.

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I count myself out this time, all I have left is 4 ribs, handrails and hand wheels to go. I'll just be on the side lines, watching for any foul play. I'm on nights, so won't sleep until 5am, hope to have mine done by daylight.

 

But those 4 ribs are "interesting", anyone who can get them all on straight deserves a medal!

 

Edit: Interesting image added. That's a 5 pence piece, BTW.

 

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I might just get to those ribs by Christmas!

 

In the last hour - axleboxes/springs sweated together. Hopper body adjusted, central divider and internal bracing added. I've also just realised why I put this wagon to one side - I vaporized one of the brake shoes with the RSU!

 

Anyhow, time for bed - some of us have work to go to in the morning!

 

Andy

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It's the early hours of the morning.

 

All I have left is axle boxes, handrails and brake wheels. I'll leave the buffers until the new designs are available.

 

Anyhow, time for bed - some of us have work to go to in the evening!

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...and mine didn't even manage to crawl out of the gloat box...there's always the mermaids in the next heat I guess... :P

 

Excellent informative post BTW Bryn...Can seeing myself re reading that a few times...

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I'm glad it was of use to you lot, it's hard to tell when writing these things. I might do some more on various other subjects, it's all too often we are described how to do something and not really shown the "nut and bolts" of said process.

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On the home straight now.

 

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Handrails, lamp irons, vacuum cylinder and buffers still to add - the latter may have to wait a while. There are also two more of the ribs that gave Bryn so much fun!

 

I have to say that this isn't the easiest kit to assemble; I'm not very pleased with the amount of solder on it, and the less said about the language uttered when the hopper supports were added the better! However, it does produce a nice-looking wagon. I'm not sure I'm ready to build the other three just yet though!

 

Andy :)

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Still on nights for the next 10 days, then I can return to reality once again!

 

I'm tempted by a rake now, I quite like how this kit has come out. As Andy said, it is most definitely not a beginner's kit! But given time and patience it is worth the effort. I have cravings for a class 40, 10 catfish and a shark. Luckily the 40 looks like a shack of ****, but maybe a pair of 20s would suffice?

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