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The Great RMweb 2FS Build Off


Bryn

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mmm although i dont acutally need on i think i will join in too hopefully there will be some left at the agm

 

Nigel,

 

These kits won't be available from the the Association. They are only on sale directly form Stephen Harris (link in earlier posts). If you get on the phone to him, you might be able to get one in time!

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This sounds like a great idea, especially as I have a couple of the kits in question in my gloat box. Actually I built one a while ago, photo attached (hopefully).

 

post-8304-0-93273900-1316114695.jpg

 

BTW, I've just come across the 2mm Finescale group here on RMweb (I've been a member for quite a while but not a very prolific follower/contributor).

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If I can get hold of the kits in time, I might quite fancy a go at this. I've been interested in building brass kit's for a while and this is a great opportunity to start. I followed Bryn's Catfish build and Pixie's 16t build and I've learnt a lot about, so this is just the kind of nudge I need.

 

As I'm virtually an absolute noob at this, (apart from a clumsy soldering attempt at a dg coupling), I've a few questions regarding tools and materials. Even though I've read lots and researched quite a bit, I'm still a bit confused about irons, solders and fluxes.

 

So I've been looking at soldering irons, and I seem to hear the Antex XS25 being used a lot so this is on my list. Could anyone tell me if it's worth the extra fiver to get one with the heat proof silicone cable? I'm assuming that, other than the safety aspect, this type of cable will be very flexible and pliable, unlike the cheap iron I have now that the cable seems to act like a spring, tearing it off it's stand at every chance.

 

As for tips, what average size would be best and what shape, round or flat?

 

For solder, I'm looking at Carr's Speedy or Carrs 179.

 

For flux I'm looking at Carrs Green Label, though Orange Label appeals because of no cleaning and less hassle?

 

I'm also hearing good things about Carrs Solder Cream, is this a choice worth considering for a noob? And what exactly is the difference between solder paint and solder cream? Is the cream conatin the

 

As to tools, I've a few clamps, squares, old needle files, a bit of wood, and even a fibre glass brush that should suffice (I think)

 

How does this sound, am I on the right (and dark) path? Oh, and plasters and a damp cloth might be useful, and a swear box too?

 

Paul

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I had no idea you could get an Antex with a different cable on it so i'd not say its a massive consideration.

 

For flux you can get phosphoric acid, Eileens do 9% and London Road Models 12%, both will do for brass with 145-188 solders. It washes off in water and is easy to get hold of to make your own solution if you wanted to.

 

I built my last 2mm mineral with a 2mm flat bit, 9% flux and Eileens 145 solder though for 2mm those resistance soldering units and solder paste do come into their own.

 

Just a craft knife i'd add to the tools to get the bits off the fret..

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Thanks for the kind comments - yes, this wagon did make an appearance at Expo (at least, I had it with me in the stock box). I also have a few 16T minerals with 2mm Association plastic bodies. The Stephen Harris wagon definitely wins in appearance.

 

For soldering I use an Antex 30W iron (but have used the 25W successfully in the past). I usually leave on a bit that tapers to a point, but a "chisel" type one should be fine for this too. Since buying a tube of Carr's 179 solder cream I've become a major convert. It's so much easier to be able to apply the solder before the heat, and helps to avoid those moments of not having enough hands that seem to occur regularly in soldering.

 

By far the most important thing with the soldering iron is to make sure the tip is tinned and "shiny" before trying to use it. Sometimes I find this a pain to achieve but it is well worth persevering. Although I don't (yet) have one, I've heard that the type of tip cleaner that looks like a wire pot scourer is fantastic.

 

Anthony

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  • RMweb Gold

By far the most important thing with the soldering iron is to make sure the tip is tinned and "shiny" before trying to use it. Sometimes I find this a pain to achieve but it is well worth persevering. Although I don't (yet) have one, I've heard that the type of tip cleaner that looks like a wire pot scourer is fantastic.

 

Anthony

 

 

I would fully agree with this. I use one of these pot scourer type cleaners and much prefer it to the damp sponge.

 

Jerry

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By far the most important thing with the soldering iron is to make sure the tip is tinned and "shiny" before trying to use it. Sometimes I find this a pain to achieve but it is well worth persevering. Although I don't (yet) have one, I've heard that the type of tip cleaner that looks like a wire pot scourer is fantastic.

 

Anthony

 

I'd agree with Jerry on this - the 'pan scourer' tip cleaners are very good. I would also recommend getting a little pot of the 'tip tinner' - plunge the tip of the iron in this after cleaning it in the pan scourer and you'll get a nice shiny coating on the iron tip.

 

Andy

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Natalie Graham

I found a tin of Multicore tip tinner/cleaner in a box the other day. A small round tin about the same diameter as a 10p piece, with double sided sticky on the bottom and some hard stuff inside that when you rub the tip of the iron on it fetches the oxide off the tip and tins it at the same time. It works very well.

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Not a happy bunny , mainly due to the cam belt letting go and trashing the cylender head im motorless, so no AGM attendance from me.ah well its going to be a mail purchase so i ca join in with the build

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Not a happy bunny , mainly due to the cam belt letting go and trashing the cylender head im motorless, so no AGM attendance from me.ah well its going to be a mail purchase so i ca join in with the build

 

Could you make it by train? Someone might volunteer to give you a lift to/from a station.

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