BECMAYE Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 I have placed a video on YouTube showing the new Farsh A1 loco's 'Great Central' and North Eastern'. The video is entitled 'N Gauge Farish A1' under username BECMAYE2007 (sorry I don't know how to place a link to it). Both loco's are very smooth and powerful. The inside of the cabs have painted pipework. The late crest loco has a riveted tender and the early crest loco has a flush sided tender. They look like A1's to me but I'm not an expert. There are also the usual pipes, couplings and alternative bogies included. They do look quite majestic to me. Farish flew some models to the N Gauge show. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R E Faust Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 here you go: As a subscriber to your channel I had no problem finding it R E Faust Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BECMAYE Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 here you go: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcKeBBKAlN8&feature=feedu As a subscriber to your channel I had no problem finding it R E Faust Hi, thanks for that, I did have a look on here and youtube but couldn't work it out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Crepello Posted September 13, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 13, 2011 My 'Great Central' arrived from Rochester today and is now on the rolling road. Highly recommended as it is; I won't try the shorter drawbar until my layout is up and running again. The finish is excellent and the big driving wheels a delight. Roll on the A2,A3 and A4! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Looks like there is a lot of extra space to add weight for those who want to loose the traction tyred wheels and get even more traction. I do hope future A- models will make use of the coreless motor that is being promised for the WD and Std 5. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 I've now received "North Eastern". Overall a very nice model - though mine has a couple of niggles: - one of the cab handrails was rattling loose in the box and had clearly fallen off in transit - the rear pony truck wheels were stiff, and wouldn't rotate on their own - I found that the slot was tight and needed a little opening out to free them - the loco sits very slightly on a slant when looking head on. It looks to me like this is caused by the cylinder block sitting slightly slant on the chassis, which in turn doesn't look milled entirely flat. Looking at snaps on Hattons and Rails they all look the same as this. Should be possible to rectify by levelling up with a little filing. - the loco won't fit in the box with the draincocks fitted (!) - oversight there on Bachmann's part... Other things I have done or will do: - fit the scale bogie - this is entirely possible, even on 9" curves - the bars holding the front brake blocks need thinning for more clearance. - fit the front steps - again entirely possible, even on 9" curves - the backs can be thinned a bit to give bogie clearance - fit the draincocks - again entirely possible, even on 9" curves - if you fit them slightly further out rather than into the holes provided. - the chimney could do with drilling out, as it's quite obviously not, being short. - the front electric lamps appear to also have gas lamps moulded above them in an express headcode - these could do with painting white. - the shorter drawbar definitely will not work on 9" curves, but it may be possible to slightly elongate the holes so it will as it doesn't need much extra clearance. - I will fit a short shank rapido to the rear coupler - adjust the eccentric rod cranks so they lead the wheelsets more notably. Overall it's a very nice model, with a feeling of mechanism longevity. The etched nameplates are a particular marvel with their painted/printed N.E. crests. It's notable how much simpler the mechanisms are now with the lack of copper pickup wipers meaning less overall components - which should hopefully lead to even better future reliability. Regards, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted September 17, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 17, 2011 - adjust the eccentric rod cranks so they lead the wheelsets more notably. Hi Alan. I'd be very interested to see how you do this. It's the one thing Farish don't seem to get quite right when it comes to the motion. Cheers, Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 Here are a few snaps of my North Eastern in BR Green. With all the detail bits fitted including the large wheel bogie, albeit with longer drawbar still: With regards the motion, Tom, it's pretty simple - get a snap of the loco in question, and then loosen the central screw that holds the eccentric rod on - an 1/8 of a turn is all that's needed. Rotate the rod to the appropriate orientation using your photo as reference (leading usually, though there are a few exceptions to this - e.g. rebuilt Bullieds) and then retighten the screw. Result below. I've done this to all my Jubilees, Scots, 3MTs and 4MTs also. It makes a big difference not only on the static look, but also the motion of the rods when running. It's worth noting that I also painted the wheel rims black - whilst the spokes are painted, the tyre rims are not, and they benefit from this. Additionally, I've painted the lamps and shortened the coupling hook, as well as fitting the etched plates and front steps: Finally, I drilled out her nostrils (ouch, sounds painful!), which looks so much better. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted September 17, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 17, 2011 Thanks very much Alan! I've just tweaked my Tornado and the difference is a vast improvement! I'll have to do my Black 5 too as the eccentric barely moves on that. Cheers, Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy L S Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Hi Alan Your loco looks so good with your tweaks and all the bits fitted that it could easily be mistaken for it's 00 cousin! I will have a go at fitting the extras like the valve-guides on one of mine but am not sure if I will do the plates, exquisite though the etched ones are - there is just too much scope for me to to screw up! Think I will also unplug the front coupling! Regards Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Mc Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Hi No problems at all with mine smooth running gear and no broken detail. Thanks Al great suggestions especially about brake mods with the spare front ponies and the eccentric rod. Excellent! I will modify mine also and add maybe 1 or 2 more interesting mods. Great suggestions. Cheers Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westcoaster Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Just wanted to say thanks to Dr Al for his excellent tip on adjusting eccentric rods. I've just done this on my B1 and it really has improved the look of the motion. I'm delighted and grateful for his clear explanation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R E Faust Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Just wanted to say thanks to Dr Al for his excellent tip on adjusting eccentric rods. I've just done this on my B1 and it really has improved the look of the motion. I'm delighted and grateful for his clear explanation. Any chance someone could do a short video of how to make this adjustment? R E Faust Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Even though I have no interest in N, that is a lovely model. Thank you for uploading your video - I am much impressed by the background terraced houses- whose are they? Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regent Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 My A1 runs well, with the exception of the infrequent stall (especially when reversing). Any idea how to fix this problem? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 12, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 12, 2011 I bought 'Tornado' over the weekend. On the test track it works fine on DC. However, when I fitted the Bachmann 6 pin decoder and placed on DCC track, the loco started making noises that you would get if there is a short somewhere in the wiring / loco without a decoder but on DCC power. I very quickly removed the loco from the track and checked the decoder was plugged in properly but still the noises. I put the decoder in another loco and it still works fine. I then put another brand new 6 pin decoder in Tornado but the same problem. Even tried turning the decoder over just in case it was marked the wrong way round but no joy. Has anyone else had this problem? Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted December 12, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 12, 2011 I found the problem on my Tornado. There was excess solder causing a bridge on the board with the socket for the decoder, thus causing a short when the decoder was plugged in. Careful removal of the excess solder solved the issue and the loco now runs on DCC. The loco did also have loose crank pin screws but this is also now resolved. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Not sure if this is the right place or if its the done thing to resurrect such an old thread but ive got a farish a1 on the workbench after a complete strip, de-lubrication, re-lubrication and rebuild. However during this process both smoke deflectors became dettatched and I am wondering if anyone has experience of getting back on neatly and securely. Cheers in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Not sure if this is the right place or if its the done thing to resurrect such an old thread but ive got a farish a1 on the workbench after a complete strip, de-lubrication, re-lubrication and rebuild. However during this process both smoke deflectors became dettatched and I am wondering if anyone has experience of getting back on neatly and securely. Cheers in advance. Getting back on- yes. securely- don't know. My latest A1 (the third attempt at getting one that doesn't prefer BR Lines company to mine) arrived secondhand with a deflector that had come adrift in the post. I've just lightly filed away the remains of the old glue and used superglue to stick the deflector back on. So far it has been in the stockbox to Manchester and back and run two days at the L&YDCC show (very rare for one of my A1s to run for a whole show). Last time I looked the deflector was still attached. Hope this helps. Les Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Les Thanks for the post, i did manage to get mine back together last week or so using a technique as you describe. How long it will last I'm not sure but it seems solid enough for now. It does looks slightly squint in the picture but its actually bang on to the eye. I hope you'll forgive a gratuitous picture of a work stained 60160 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les1952 Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Les Thanks for the post, i did manage to get mine back together last week or so using a technique as you describe. How long it will last I'm not sure but it seems solid enough for now. It does looks slightly squint in the picture but its actually bang on to the eye. I hope you'll forgive a gratuitous picture of a work stained 60160 Beautiful- I assume St Margaret's at its best, a bit like Gateshead's finest Not one I remember- but about as clean as my 60526, which was York's filthiest. My A1 with the repaired deflector is clean by comparison, though the A1 has had light weathering added since the pic on the left was taken (and the deflector repair survived)- Les Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Les Thanks for the post, i did manage to get mine back together last week or so using a technique as you describe. How long it will last I'm not sure but it seems solid enough for now. It does looks slightly squint in the picture but its actually bang on to the eye. I hope you'll forgive a gratuitous picture of a work stained 60160 Lovely job - worth fitting the valve guides if you have the detail parts still, just to finish it off. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Beautiful- I assume St Margaret's at its best, a bit like Gateshead's finest Not one I remember- but about as clean as my 60526, which was York's filthiest. My A1 with the repaired deflector is clean by comparison, though the A1 has had light weathering added since the pic on the left was taken (and the deflector repair survived)- two namers.jpg60115 weathered.jpg Les Yes a 64a job, in later life. I might be odd but I do prefer work stained locos for some reason. This one came out slightly more dirty than I had anticipated, I know they were grotty at times. I even added overhead line flash panels but they are lost in the dirt. I'd appreciate honest feedback if perhaps I've overdone it. So please let me know. ...I won't be offended Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Lovely job - worth fitting the valve guides if you have the detail parts still, just to finish it off. Cheers, Alan Thanks Alan high praise indeed, thanks and I had missed the valve guides, I'll need to have a rake. I also haven't fitted the front footsteps, any guidance on minimum radius with those fitted? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Regarding the valve guides, can anyone advise how they look. I checked my parts and I do have 4 bits that look appropriate but I was expecting 2 bits, one for each side. Les I notice your sugar palm has them too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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