ozzyo Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) Hello all, as asked for a sketch of the "pusher" bushes, I made mine out of brass, but you could use steel or aluminum. All the dimensions are only as a guide. Dimension "A" approx 12mm Dia. Dimension "B" approx. 9mm Dia. all this is for is so that you have a shoulder for the chuck to push against. Dimension "C" drill a thou or two bigger than the axle end, so if the axle end is say 0.125" drill 3.2mm, it wants to be a nice sliding fit. Dimension "D" approx. 10mm long. Dimension "E" approx. 2mm long. Dimension "F" approx. 1mm long. Dimension "G" the Dia. of the brass insert of the Slater's wheel center. You could omit "F" & "G" and use the full face of "A" & "E" to do the pushing, if you are going to use these in a vice make sure that dimensions "D" "E" & "F" are longer than the extended end to the axle. WARNING When using these wheels make sure that you have fitted all the bearings and gears etc. before fitting the wheels onto the axle, as if you try to remove the wheels you will almost certainly destroy them. On a crank axle make sure that you fit two good and tight fitting shims between the webs. Sometimes it can be better to fit the wheels etc. first and then remove the unwanted sections of the axle. HTH OzzyO. Edited January 24, 2012 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Hi Oz, brilliant idea, many thanks for the drawing, I'll have a go at those and heed the warnings of un-wanted Loctite in the bearings. I got side-tracked last night, after thinking about how I'd have to scratch-build the front bogie for "Earl Cawdor" I remembered that my Scorpio "Achilles" kit had a number of different options for building the bogie. Again, perfect for the Earl. I remembered because I read the instructions as many times as a play script and I love kit manufacturers who provide all those little extra castings and bits on the etches! So...with a bit of fettling I got this far. I may end up starting the Achilles as well... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David the Toolman Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Just to let you know how much I'm enjoying reading about this build. Together with two friends, we drooled over the kit (or what was available to see) at Telford in September, and all of us are collecting the shekels I think! Super effort. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I may end up starting the Achilles as well... I've built a Scorpio Achilles kit and I'm also in the process of building the Armstrong. There is simply no comparison between the kits. In the end the Scorpio made a pretty decent model but I had many challenges along the way. So far the only problem I've had with the Armstrong is not reading the instructions carefully enough and using NS wire for the splasher beading instead of brass . Good luck with the Scorpio. Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hi David, thankyou very much for your kind comments. I'm really enjoying building the kit. I find RMWEB to be such an encouraging forum, with lots of positivity, inspiration and shared ideas. Posting up the build gives me a bit of a nudge to get on with it too! I think it's an interesting comparison between MOK and Scorpio, Kev. Looking at the etches from the "Achilles" again (I've had the kit in the cupboard for 4 or 5 years), they seem much more precise than I remember. I found the instructions difficult but with 5 years more experience things seem a lot simpler. My first 7mm kit was a Scorpio GWR 14xx tank and it builds up to a lovely model and was a very steep and enjoyable learning curve, all those rivets. And then there's the difference in price; the Scorpio "Armstrong" must be a good few hundred pounds cheaper! I'd love to see some photos of your models and hear of any other tips you might have in building the Achilles. Cheers Simon Here are the Armstrong coupling rods before cleaning up. And here is Earl Cawdor's chassis balancing gently (and rather indistinctly) on its new bogie frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) I'll take a couple of photos if I can remember how to use a camera. The Achilles has been painted but I'm not happy with the colour of the frame red, so I'll wait and get some from Chris Wesson at the next show we're both at. If a Scorpio was your first 7mm kit then the MOK must be a piece of cake for you. Problems I had with the Scorpio IIRC, were crap instructions, but the more kits I build the easier it is to decipher instructions. Difficulty with the tender chassis, clearances are tight and it's easy to solder where it's not wanted and lock up the compensation. it's best to take your time with this and get it spot on. Brake rodding was a bit flimsy and prone to letting the brakes catch on the wheels. I had problems with the splasher tops, they were a pain to get right. The dome was not true and took a bit of work in a lathe to get it acceptable. I ended up cutting down the dummy valve gear and motion as I didn't like the idea of it, sort of but not quite, touching the leading driver axle. The quality of a lot of the castings wasn't acceptable and I ended up raiding the parts bin, and Laurie Griffins' catalogue. On the plus side it looks great!! and with the 4 wheel drive gearbox i t pulls 8 Gresley teaks around our layout, (Hassel Harbour Bridge), and the articulated loco chassis works surprising well Kev Edited January 25, 2012 by Kev T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 http://hassellharbourbridge.com/kevin.htm http://hassellharbourbridge.com/page-3.htm These are a couple of photos's of my locos on our website. The Duke was my 2nd loco, the pannier tank my first and the little blue industrial my 3rd. The Scorpio Achilles was my 4th loco and the Armstrong build is my 6th and latest build. I only now feel that I'm starting to get the hang of this, maybe with another half dozen under my belt I'll feel happier. Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hi Kev, Nice loco's can I ask the origin of the traction engine on the lowmac? I have a couple and I have some period tractors for one but would like a traction engine too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) Hi Kev, Nice loco's can I ask the origin of the traction engine on the lowmac? I have a couple and I have some period tractors for one but would like a traction engine too It's the Aveling and Porter listed here http://www.duncanmod...s_and_items.htm . The Burrels are a little more detailed and more expensive. It's all white metal and went together quite nicely. Kev edit: I saw one of these traction engines on a layout, Ithink by Alan Searle, where he'd fixed a motor under the baseboard, taken the driveshaft through the baseboard up into the traction engine and used it turn the scratch built crank shaft and flywheel. Absolutely awesome piece of model engineering. Edited January 25, 2012 by Kev T 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks Kev, much appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Lovely locos Kev and I always enjoy your layout when I see it at exhibitions, I'll try to say hello next time! Progress on the Armstrong shows the chassis with cylinder chest, motion bars and cross-heads, (looking even more like a Klingon space-ship...) I love the way you get to see how the real things worked, I've read a number of books on the subject since I started scratch-building and it's great to be able to create some of those fantastic bits of engineering in miniature. In order to get it all working I had to fit the wheels to the crankshaft axle. The instructions suggest you do that before cutting the axle out. All was OK with a couple of square brass rods acting as wedges (thanks OzzyO...), I'm not sure which way round would have been easier but I managed not to distort the crankshaft and got the wheel back-to-back correct with my hefty brass gauge. And they make rather beautiful arty photos too. Now I have to connect it all together with the other bits and pieces of valve gear... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) As long as you kept the axle straight that is all that matters. OzzyO. Edited January 31, 2012 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Hi Simon by all means say hello and introduce yourself. We're next out at Glasgow in a few weeks, but I'm not there, work commitments won't allow it. Then we've a couple of exhibitions later on in the year at Peterborough and Wakefield. If you bring a loco, we're quite happy to run it around the layout for you if we're not too busy, beginning and end of the day is best if it's a busy exhibition. Alternatively we have 2 open days a year where we encourage people to bring their own locos. The next one is around May time, dates not yet firmed up, but they're advertised via GOG. I love the phot's of the motion and wheels, looks like a piece of art. regards Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thankyou Gentlemen, here are some more arty photos (look at those shadows!) as bits and pieces get dismantled and re-assembled and so on. The whole valve gear business is organised to unbolt from the chassis for painting, very handy. For fans of the MOK Armstrong and fine modelling in 7mm; I note that Mr Raymond Walley is busy posting up details of his own progress on his web-site, raymondwalley.com. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 While I'm gently re-assembling the valve gear I thought I'd make a start on the loco body as I hadn't had a go at a bit of sheet metal for a while. The sub footplate and outside frames are are a one piece fold-up structure that was bent up very carefully in the hold and fold. Nickel silver is a lot more springy and forgiving than brass and doesn't buckle half as easily, so once it starts to bend everything tends to shape up nicely. There's a beautiful build of a Scorpio Achilles in the latest Gauge O Guild Gazette by a Mr Chris Simpson, who blithely says that "After a few test runs, I stripped and painted the loco." How Mr Smith? How did you paint it? The finish is absolutely stunning! I shall try and find out.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I will have to wait to see the piece in the gazette as mine takes about 4 weeks to arrive here in Brazil. But I like what you are doing. Are the holdand folds worth there money? I have a selection of various size folding bars. I just wondered if it would be worth replacing them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 There's a beautiful build of a Scorpio Achilles in the latest Gauge O Guild Gazette by a Mr Chris Simpson, who blithely says that "After a few test runs, I stripped and painted the loco." How Mr Smith? How did you paint it? The finish is absolutely stunning! I shall try and find out.. Chris Simpson is the GOG member who runs the video library. I have bought a few of the DVD's and phoned him to order them. I can say that he is very approachable and only too willing to chat about all things gauge 0. Contact him through the guild, I'm sure he'll respond. Cheers Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Hi Peter, I'm impressed that the Gazette gets as far as Brasil, I reckon it's worth the wait! I find the hold'n'fold invaluable for really difficult; very short/small and long/thin folds. I can't remember how much they cost but I've not regretted it! And thanks Kev, I'll contact Chris via the website and see if he'll write up his painting methods, hopefully before I get to the stage where I want to get the air-brush out. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C J Simpson Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Hello all. I've just been told my name has been used on this forum relating to the Dean Single I reviewed in the latest GOG Gazette. So I've joined. Happy to have a discussion. Best wishes Chris Simpson. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Hi Simon by the looks of it you're just a bit ahead of me in the build, I've just cut my crank and cleaned it up, that was a nail biter. I've now got to the bit where I'm working out what goes where and fixing the valve gear together. In the instructions it says to pin together the eccentic rods to the expansion links. The pictures are unclear and to me look like they're soldered up, I've no idea how to pin them together, apart from using something like 12ba nuts and bolts so can I ask how you did yours. cheers kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C J Simpson Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 There's a beautiful build of a Scorpio Achilles in the latest Gauge O Guild Gazette by a Mr Chris Simpson, who blithely says that "After a few test runs, I stripped and painted the loco." How Mr Smith? How did you paint it? The finish is absolutely stunning! I shall try and find out.. I saw this posting, so here's a response. First let me say the finish is not as good as the photos suggest. I guess I'm better at photos than painting models, but I am generally happy with the result. First I used Halfords etch primer Upol Acid 8. This is a tougher primer than normal grey primer. The green is Railmatch sprayed on with a Badger airbrush. At first I used the pre 1928 green, which in theory is the correct shade for this loco. I wasn't happy because it appeared to me to be too dark, so I stripped the model and started again with the later shade. Black is Humbrol satin black brushed on. Indian red is Railmatch sprayed. Lining was where I had most problems. I used Pressfix at first, and the boiler bands turned out ok. For the cab sides there was no exact match on the transfer sheet for the curvature needed, so I had to cut and join. Further, I needed to use two sheets to get enough bits. Unfortunately you can see the odd join still. The main problem with these transfers is that the two sheets I used, were not consistent either in colour or spacing between the orange lines. Another problem is that the black line was not consistently centred between the orange lines. I ended up removing most of the transfers, but not those on the cab sides (I now wish I had), and relining using a bow pen and some brush work. The tender has no transfers on it except the crest (Methfix). The end result is a compromise. I wish I had removed all the transfers, and one day I might revisit. I finished with a light coat of Ronseal gloss polyurethane. I'm now reading Ian Rathbone's book on painting and lining, which is inspirational, and for my next loco I'll do a better job. Regards, Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Chris It is all a great learning curve. Every loco I build I find someting new to do.then end up wishing I had done it on the previous locos. I am waiting my gazette, so am looking forward to seeing your engine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev T Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Chris you say in your reply that you sprayed with Ronseal varnish. What did you use to thin it and did it have to tbe very thin. I've tried and I end up with a faintly lumpy finish, but you have to look close to spot it. Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
C J Simpson Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi Kev, I used some enamel thinners I bought from a motor paint supplier.....about 20 years ago. I bought a gallon and recently had to decant the remaining half gallon in to coffee jars 'cos the gallon can had gone rusty. I have used ordinary white spirit in the past with no problems. I did make it quite thin, and sprayed gently. I use a compressor which I bought from RDG tools, which has an air tank, a pressure regulator and a water trap. (cost £95 with two airbrushes). It can be set to any pressure from about 5 psi up to 50 psi. I generally load the airbrush, then experiment for a few seconds at different pressures, until I think the flow is going to be even. I find lower pressures tend to be helpful. Interestingly the two airbrushes that came with the compressor seem quite useful. I tried one on my later model and couldn't really discern much difference from my efforts with the Badger. Peter, there are is one photo of my Achilles in the Gallery. It's not the best one there by a long chalk. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Chris you say in your reply that you sprayed with Ronseal varnish. What did you use to thin it and did it have to tbe very thin. I've tried and I end up with a faintly lumpy finish, but you have to look close to spot it. Kev Kev T, do some of old gits a favorer and increase your font size . OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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