Adventures in kit and scratch-building.

[Guest Jim Read]

Hello Simon and Castle,

 

I take a small 7mm layout to exhibitions and after a gap of 20+ years am surprised at the amount of young girls who are interested. I let them have a go and very deft they are too quickly picking up how to use the three link couplings and controlling the locos to the 5 miles a fortnight speed that I insist on.

 

 

I was really surprised and delighted to see the Lady Armstrong I didn't think anyone else was interested :-) Wow what a model [as Geoffrey Smith might say]

 

Jim

[sej]

Hi Jim, it's great to see another Lady Armstrong! Mine's going to end up, with a rake of NSR 4-wheelers, running as "preserved" on my Culm Valley layout...

Castle, I've been inspired by your comments concerning the volunteer spirit to enquire as a volunteer at Didcot, do you have any recommendations as to how I should go about it?

And Rob, thanks for your comments. I find building all three locos at once a bit exciting but great if I get stuck with one stage to move on to another and as they're all so similar it's very useful when scratch-building to look at the construction of the other two. My next project will be another 3 locos. It really is an attempt to clear the secret kit cupboard!

Here are some photos of recent progress, somewhat stalled by the intrusion of work requirements.

 

 

The articulation of the Achilles chassis is a pivot through the hole at the top centre. Next job, the cosmetic valve gear.

 

[Kev T]

Hi Simon

have you noticed that the handrail holes in the spectacle plate don't line up? I contacted Dave Sharp today and after checking his masks he reckons that the brass spectacle plate has the handrail holes 3.1mm too high. You can check inside the cab because the holes in the NS are correct and don't match the brass. Obviously this is easy enough to correct but it's easier now rather than later.

 

I'm not sure whether you've completed the chassis yet and fitted the crankpin nut thingy's. If not can I suggest Derek Mundy's crankpin set for GWR locos, they look rather handsome. No connection to him other than as a customer.

 

cheers

Kev

 

BTW have you found the knob for the front cylinder cover below the smoke box?

Edited March 14, 2012 by Kev T

[ozzyo]

The articulation of the Achilles chassis is a pivot through the hole at the top centre. Next job, the cosmetic valve gear.

 

Hello Simon,

 

looking at Achilles frames this may be his heel, as when the front section of the frames move to the left or right they may catch on the drivers.

As this loco is designed as a 4-4-0 do you think that you will need as much movement at the front end?

 

One of the reasons that I ask is if you have a lot of unrestrained movement at the front end of the loco it will "wiggle" the front end about.

One of the things that can stop this is fitting sprung buffers between the loco and the tender, it will not stop it all but it can help.

 

Nice looking builds up to now.

 

For Didcot, just go and ask them and ask how to volunteer to help them, they will help you better than we can.

 

 

OzzyO.

[Kev T]

Hello Simon,

 

looking at Achilles frames this may be his heel, as when the front section of the frames move to the left or right they may catch on the drivers.

As this loco is designed as a 4-4-0 do you think that you will need as much movement at the front end?

 

One of the reasons that I ask is if you have a lot of unrestrained movement at the front end of the loco it will "wiggle" the front end about.

One of the things that can stop this is fitting sprung buffers between the loco and the tender, it will not stop it all but it can help.

 

 

OzzyO.

I can understand that you may think the articulation would be a problem, but the amount is restricted and doesn't cause a problem. I can get mine around a 5'6" radius and the front bogie holds the front part of the chassis in place, the pivot is excatly like that on an artic. lorry so the rear of the chassis simply follows. There is no more sideways movement than on an 0-4-0, possibly less. There are sprung buffers between the loco and tender which may help but I'm not sure. All in all I'm quite impressed with the loco, but I'd think twice about building another, parts of the build were a pain.

 

cheers

Kev

[Castle]

Hi Simon,

 

The more, the merrier as far as new volunteers go at Didcot! If you want to come and volunteer then the first step is to join the Great Western Society (membership forms are on our website at: www.didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk). After that, it depends on what you want to get into. There really is something for every interest and every skill set on any preserved railway and our place is no exception. I am part of the locomotive department and I am on the 4079 (unsurprising that isn't it?!) and the 4144 restoration teams. We meet officially on Saturdays for working party days fortnightly. Unofficially though we go in at all sorts of times as employment and personal lives allow. If you would like to come down, have a look round and a chat about getting involved then drop me a PM and I can sort you out. We are a friendly sort of bunch so newcomers are always welcome to get involved and the kettle is always on and ready for a brew as well.

 

I find that the modelling as a young boy fed the need to go and play with the real thing that increased my knowledge and enthusiasm that lead me back to modelling and this time round I know a fair bit more about what all those weird moulded blobs and shapes actually were and are supposed to do! One hobby adds new dimensions and interest to the other and vice versa. I had little knowledge or interest in the carriages and wagons until I restarted modelling a year or two ago and I have become a bit of a wagonaholic if the 9 unmade kits and 4 RTR conversions in my to do pile are anything to go by...

 

All the best,

 

Castle

[sej]

Good evening Gents, thanks for your replies. Kev, I hadn't noticed the handrail holes, I'll get the drill out, thankyou! I haven't looked for the knob although I noticed that it was mentioned. Have you found yours? I've also had some exciting times with my slitting disc today, removing the jigs inside the Armstrong's boiler, photos to come.

And thanks OzzyO as well, for the Achilles thoughts. If the articulation doesn't please I plan to solder it solid, if I don't do that while I'm trying to solder in the pivot pin.

And Castle, thankyou for your help, I'll get onto it and let you know how I'm doing. I particularly agree with your comments on relating the real thing to modelling. I went on a steam loco driving course at the Gloucs/Warks railway and besides having an exhilarating experience it really made me think about how to drive the models prototypically.

And as for modelling, here are the cab sides to Earl Cawdor with the window frames in various stages a la Guy Williams. The large holes were just the start of a thought of drilling out the inside radii but I decided I'd rather cut and file to finish instead.

[N15class]

I always found Guy's way of doing windows so much easier than the way I did before. I must re read the book, so many useful ideas.

[C J Simpson]

Hi Guys. When I made my Scorpio Achilles I didn't solder in the pivot pin. I simply used a bolt and nut. I even thought of making the front part of the chassis a permanent fixture to the footplate, and having the driving bogie as the only removable part. In the end 'cos I was writing a review for the Guild Gazette, I left it essentially as designed.

Chris

[sej]

Thankyou gents, a nut and bolt it will be then!

I find the books by Guy Williams and Iain Rice to be the ones I turn to for simple and effective solutions to building locos.

I soldered in the dummy valve gear on the Achilles without too much trouble and had great fun with the slitting disc removing the jigs and spare metal from inside the Armstrong. Some of the more fiddly bits of detail are starting to go on as well, much helped by the tab and slot design.

[sej]

Bit of a distraction here, I've managed to buy some made-up Slaters GWR 7mm Clerestory All Third coaches at a remarkably cheap price. Mainly because they are not well constructed and I'm taking them apart etc.,etc. Does anybody have a spare set of instructions that they could scan/post to me (all expenses paid) as it's a bit difficult in some places to see how they were supposed to have been put together!

I'll post some pictures.

Meanwhile I note that MOK, who make the Armstrong kit, are very helpfully responding to customer feedback and posting instruction modifications on their website, hurrah!And I've ordered a one-off turning of the dome for Earl Cawdor from Michael Edge of Judith Edge kits, who did such a beautiful little job of my Lady Armstrong's horn.

Normal service resumed as soon as poss. Happy Easter everyone!

[dymstocklr]

Hi Simon

I'm pretty sure I've got a set of instructions for the coach lying around somewhere - together with the half built coach! I'll try and work out how my new fangled printer/copier thing works and email them to you - probably tomorrow.

Enjoying the Armstrong build - it will be a great help to me when I eventually get round to the build. Keep up the good work!!

Bill

[dymstocklr]

Simon

I've sent you a pm.

Bill

[sej]

Thankyou Bill. I'll get myself sorted out tomorrow and answer you properly!

Cheers

Simon

[sej]

Here's to say thankyou for the kind offers of help with Dean Clerestory instructions and to show progress with paint stripper and OzzyO's favourite black etch primer, magical stuff!

And then there's a test fit for the cab of "Earl Cawdor", I've tack soldered it and managed to stop myself soldering it solid until I've tried the boiler etc.

And I promise normal service will be resumed as soon as possible with the Armstrong as soon as I've finished the artwork (inspired by Ronald Searle) for Merry Wives of Windsor!

[sej]

Back from beautiful Devon, oysters and sunshine!

Here's the Armstrong, fitted with splasher steps and cosmetic bearings for the outside crank axles. I've had some trouble with tapping small threads into deep holes in castings, which is what is supposed to happen here, so after breaking my 12BA tap inside the hornguide and having to dig it out, I decided to drill an interference fit for the 12BA bolts and solder them into the holes. Then I cut the bolt heads off and use nuts to secure the tie bars. I'm going to order a set of nut spinners from Squires to try and cut down on the fiddle.

Anyway, it works for me. The underslung springs are next and that involves 14BA nuts...aargh!

Earl Cawdor is gently progressing, I've started to think about the boiler and rolled up a quick test from thin brass. Here it is resting on a handy wheel gauge. The loco looks more and more like a Victorian toy from the Railway Children. The original must have been most striking. J.N. Maskelyne gives a lovely description in "Locomotives I Have Known".

[ozzyo]

Hello Sej all,

 

when I'm using small taps 6 - 16BA, I don't use a tap wrench but a pin vice / chuck. I think that it gives a better feel to the tapping.

 

When tapping brass I use white spirit as a lub, also as getting the correct size tapping drill is getting a bit of a bu99er at 1.05mm I tend to drill 1.1mm. But in brass sheet 1mm.

 

Nice looking build by the way.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. I've just had a look in Item's Mail Order catalogue, and these may help you 12 & 14BA brass hexagon sets standard head you may have to cut them down but it could be easer than having to use 14BA nuts. Contact details as follows 01427 848880. When I have ordered on a Tus. the order has been with on the Wed. Down side is a min. order of £10.

 

Edit for the PS.

Edited April 13, 2012 by ozzyo

[sej]

Aaagh, just mucked up the last post, so trying again!

 

Thanks OzzyO, sound advice as ever. White spirit has certainly helped! Adds to the heady aromas of the workbench too.

Got a great set of 16BA to 6BA nut spinners, post haste from Squires for £14.99. Marvellous!

 

Progress on Earl Cawdor shows more tack-soldering and nuts, bolts, tapping and arty photos.

I made the brass formers for the main boiler by fretting and then spinning in the Black and Decker with some careful application of files. The firebox formers had to be finished by hand. I built the firebox seperately; there is a rather abrupt curve to get behind the splashers. It bolts onto the cab front, and the main boiler, of the same diameter, will bolt onto it. The join will be masked by a boiler band.

 

Incidently, does anyone have any thoughts on boiler bands? Brass strip / masking tape / something else?

[N15class]

Aaagh, just mucked up the last post, so trying again!

 

Thanks OzzyO, sound advice as ever. White spirit has certainly helped! Adds to the heady aromas of the workbench too.

Got a great set of 16BA to 6BA nut spinners, post haste from Squires for £14.99. Marvellous!

 

Progress on Earl Cawdor shows more tack-soldering and nuts, bolts, tapping and arty photos.

I made the brass formers for the main boiler by fretting and then spinning in the Black and Decker with some careful application of files. The firebox formers had to be finished by hand. I built the firebox seperately; there is a rather abrupt curve to get behind the splashers. It bolts onto the cab front, and the main boiler, of the same diameter, will bolt onto it. The join will be masked by a boiler band.

 

Incidently, does anyone have any thoughts on boiler bands? Brass strip / masking tape / something else?

I always use Scotch Magic tape lightly rubbed down and painted and lined and applied after painting before varnishing, or stuck in place before painting for the non lined engines.

[Rob Pulham]

 

When tapping brass I use white spirit as a lub,

 

I too use a pin vice and I just tried your method of using white spirit Ozzy - what a difference it makes. I have always used Vaseline but I won't be in future.

 

Thanks for the tip.

[sej]

Hi there, I think I'm going to use brass strip for Earl Cawdor's boiler bands as I want to hide the joint between the firebox and boiler. I'll use scotch tape on the Armstrong. And isn't that white spirit good!

Here are a couple of arty photos of progress including the fabulous dome as commissioned from Michael Edge of Judith Edge kits. I love it!

[sej]

I've built up the smokebox saddle from nickel-silver and brass, using brass for the curved sides as they had to be quite thick and brass tends to be easier to shape to these complex curves. The boiler, firebox and smoke box all bolt together. I ran a long piece of brass tubing through the boiler and its formers with a sawn-off 8BA bolt soldered in at the back and allowing it to turn with a slot for a screw-driver at the front. That's so I didn't have to fiddle about poking a screw driver inside the boiler. The photos show just how enormous the boiler was! When everything's bolted in place with the splashers on, I'll solder it all up solid.

[N15class]

Good thinking about the tube, I like to make the bodies in parts for painting. It is often difficult to figure out how to bolt it all together.

[sej]

Hello! Pressures of work of late have interfered with the modelling, curses, however here is some progress!

The Armstrong has aquired some springing and a beautiful dome, fettled to fit (over some hours) using the time honoured method of wet and dry wrapped around the boiler.

And "Earl Cawdor" has had the smoke-box saddle fettled and fitted and dome and chimney balanced up top...

And I bought a fantastic bottle of "artists low odour white spirit" from an art shop on Charing Cross Road for tapping and dieing without the pong!

Cheers

Simon

[N15class]

They are looking really good.