Judith Edge kits

[Enterprisingwestern]

Mike,

 

Please would it be possible to indulge us with a link or product number.  Somewhere here I think https://www.soldersonline.co.uk/dept.aspx?id=196

 

By the way, taps are useful when soldering nuts to models as those less competent tend to find solder creeping into the thread.  A quick clear out with a tap is easier than desoldering and restarting with a fresh nut.

 

Use a steel bolt, as in Mikes kits, and voila no messy nuts!

 

Mike.

[decauville1126]

 

 

By the way, taps are useful when soldering nuts to models as those less competent tend to find solder creeping into the thread.  A quick clear out with a tap is easier than desoldering and restarting with a fresh nut.

 

I simply rub the screw thread, whatever material, with a soft lead (ie graphite) pencil before screwing in to solder captive nuts. Any solder wicking simply makes the screw a very slightly tighter fit.

 

And, depending on what flux you've used, undo the screws as soon as all nuts are soldered and the job cooled a bit. Acid flux and steel screws can lock into place quite quickly.

[Michael Edge]

Mike,

 

Please would it be possible to indulge us with a link or product number.  Somewhere here I think https://www.soldersonline.co.uk/dept.aspx?id=196

 

By the way, taps are useful when soldering nuts to models as those less competent tend to find solder creeping into the thread.  A quick clear out with a tap is easier than desoldering and restarting with a fresh nut.

That's why we give you steel screws and brass nuts, unless you do use phosphoric acid soldering the screw is very unlikely.

[polybear]

Mike,

 

Please would it be possible to indulge us with a link or product number.  Somewhere here I think https://www.soldersonline.co.uk/dept.aspx?id=196

 

By the way, taps are useful when soldering nuts to models as those less competent tend to find solder creeping into the thread.  A quick clear out with a tap is easier than desoldering and restarting with a fresh nut.

 

The closest I found was "62s" solder:

 

https://www.soldersonline.co.uk/search.aspx?search=62s

 

- but nothing under "52s".

 

Mike:  Can I ask what Flux you use please?  Thanks

Kind Regards,

Brian

[Michael Edge]

Looking a bit closer, yes it is 62/s - the label was wrinkled slightly! I got it from Hobby Holidays, also seen it on RS website.

I use phosphoric acid for all sheet metal work, Fluxite for electrical work.

[Michael Edge]

Quite a few new developments to report on.

The test etch for the Stanier 2-6-2T has arrived, I should get it built this month. I also have an order to build one in 7mm scale this year.

Test etch for the GC C14 in 4mm is underway, photos later and I also have the first test of the Stone Faiveley single arm pantograph to put together. This proved to be a lot more complicated than I expected and may need some lost wax castings eventually.

7mm test etch for the Hunslet 05 (early version - not the Heljan one) is nearly complete so should be the next O gauge kit.

Fowler 150hp basic drawing complete (posted in Fowler 150hp thread), I hope to have the test etch for Scalefour North.

Other bits and pieces now available include Iracier axlebox covers and a separate water scoop wheel for GC tenders.

 

[Adam]

Oh good news about the Fowler 150HP and since I'd missed the thread, here it is: 

 

I'll look forward to seeing that!

 

Adam

 

 

Edited February 6, 2019 by Adam

[Blandford1969]

4 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

Quite a few new developments to report on.

The test etch for the Stanier 2-6-2T has arrived, I should get it built this month. 

Yey, excellent news, could well be having at least 2 of those. Really look forward to seeing the test build, if it appears on here?

[Jub45565]

2 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

Yey, excellent news, could well be having at least 2 of those. Really look forward to seeing the test build, if it appears on here?

 

Likewise, and also interested how the boiler will be tackled?

[Michael Edge]

The boiler and the firebox are on the etch, whether it works or not is another matter - but that's what test etches are for. 

I've just done the etch for a 7mm version to be built in April/May this year.

[Lord Flashheart]

Look forward to the class 05,will be doing 05001 in blue.

 

Rob

[Michael Edge]

Some photos of the test etch C14.

The frames are designed to be continuous as in full size, no cut outs or pivoted rear truck. The radial axlebox at the trailing end is replaced by an internal pony truck at the correct radius. There are cut out marks around the bogie wheels but these appear not be necessary at least down to the 28" radius of my test track (in 00 gauge). As can be seen here the frames are considerably joggled and tapered inwards to allow enough side movement - all this from the GA, no modelling concessions apart from the gauge.

Close up of the internal pony truck arrangement, it's also lightly sprung with a phosphor bronze wire, just visible over the driving wheel axle.

Tank front, cab front and bunker front all locate in half etches on the top of the footplate. The cut out on this side of the cab front is for the reverser, the only significant error so far is that I forgot to make a slot at the other side for the tank top which is in one piece as usual.

Window bars are best fitted before attaching the cab back, a fairly tedious job with .3mm wire and a piece of scrap .022" n/s used as a spacer.

It doesn't look very neat on the inside but all this is easily cleaned off, finished version seen three photos up.

First tank side added, these are etched in one piece with the bunker sides, the bars across the doorways will be removed later.

The other side and the tank top added, temporary bars across the tanks will be removed as the boiler is fitted.

Bunker front added, fits down on to the cab floor, not the footplate top

The cab floor is fitted to the frames so access to the inside of the cab will be from below.

The cab sides fit on the tank top and outside the ends.

I have done a little more work on this since these photos but the C14 might have to take a back seat now in favour of the Stanier 2-6-2T and Stone/Faiveley pantograph.

 

 

[Mike G]

Mike

When do you foresee the Stannier being available for purchase? And an estimated price?

 

kind regards

 

Mike

[Michael Edge]

No promises yet, price should be about the same as the Fowler - depending on how the etch can be arranged but I won't know until I've built one and corrected the drawing.

[Michael Delamar]

Think ill have to have one of those Stanier tanks seeing as this Southport one was at Walton.

 

 

[Michael Edge]

They were regular performers on Liverpool Central - Southport trains.

[Michael Edge]

Last photo of the C14 for the time being.

The covers for the tank balance pipes are attached to the inner cab floor which is mounted on the frames, the steps will be fitted to the footplate. Cab sides finished with beading added from 30 swg brass wire.

[ArthurK]

On 13/02/2019 at 20:28, Michael Edge said:

They were regular performers on Liverpool Central - Southport trains.

And on the Preston - Southport Services.

ArthurK

[Roger Sunderland]

Michael

 

Any possibility you might have a 4mm Stanier 2-6-2 T etch at Railex in May?

[High Level Kits]

The Fell Drive Coupler Unit is now ready for anyone wanting to make their Fell a 4 plus 4.

 

The link takes you to the instructions...

 

Coupler Link

 

 

Edited March 30, 2019 by High Level Kits
Broken link

[Michael Edge]

7 hours ago, Roger Sunderland said:

Michael

 

Any possibility you might have a 4mm Stanier 2-6-2 T etch at Railex in May?

We will have the test etch model on display but production is some way off.

[Michael Edge]

Nothing new to sell at Scalefour North apart from the frame kit for the Oxford Rail Janus but we will have plenty on show with regard to future developments. I didn't manage to finish either the C14 or the Stanier 2-6-2T but progress so far will be on show. The test etch for the Fowler 150hp 0-4-0DM will be on show, building to start next week and should be on show finished at York.

 

[EHertsGER]

On 05/12/2018 at 05:11, PenrithBeacon said:

I've had this in my library since the mid-70s, highly recommended

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Building-Model-Locomotives-F-J-Roche/dp/B0011QVXUI/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1544003253&sr=1-4&keywords=building+model+locomotives

 

I have several of Iain Rice's books and they aren't at all helpful for the beginner, being very disorganised and written in a 'jolly hockeysticks' style which I find very annoying when I'm struggling. The second volume of Geoff Holt's books is the better one for a beginner.

 

Tools:-

25W soldering iron with 1mm bit (Eileens/Squires)

Rosin cored solder and small tub of rosin flux (eBay)

Fibre glass brush(Eileens/Squires)

Xuron cutters (Eileens/Squires)

Swiss files (Eileens/Squires)

Folding bars (eBay)

Drills from .35mm to 2.2mm (Eileens/Squires)

Reamers 1.0mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm 3.0mm and 1/8" (Eileens/Squires)

Broaches (Eileens/Squires)

Mini-drill (Eileens/Squires)

Pin vices in 3 different sizes (Eileens/Squires)

14BA and 12BA taps (Buck and Hickman if you want HSS, Eileens/Squires if you want carbon steel)

Pliers; snipe, round and bull nosed (Eileens/Squires)

Side cutters (Eileens/Squires)

 

You will be able to get all of these (excepting the eBay items of course) at the Peterborough show next weekend

 

Be aware that there are health and safety risks for asthmatics for both rosin and acid based fluxes, please consult your GP if you are asthmatic and under no circumstances use an acid flux without eye protection ie safety goggles. The damned stuff spits and bubbles when heat is applied to it.

If it is of any help I use a fume extractor (https://www.amazon.com/Xytronic-0608426DLX-426DLX-Fume-Extractor/dp/B0007ZLH4Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Fume+extractor&qid=1555112226&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1) on my bench placed as close to the work as possible to draw fumes away from my face. It works rather well as I find at the end of a session I have no ‘taste’ of the flux.

 

I hope that is useful.

 

best,

Marcus

 

[Jol Wilkinson]

Maplins used to sell a "fume extractor", of the type which is also available from Farnell. Digi-Key and others;

 

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en/soldering-desoldering-rework-products/fume-smoke-extraction/269?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&v=243&sf=0&FV=ffe0010d&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

[cctransuk]

2 hours ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

Maplins used to sell a "fume extractor", of the type which is also available from Farnell. Digi-Key and others;

 

https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/en/soldering-desoldering-rework-products/fume-smoke-extraction/269?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&v=243&sf=0&FV=ffe0010d&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

 

All listed as 120V ?

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.