Jol Wilkinson Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 5 hours ago, cctransuk said: All listed as 120V ? Regards, John Isherwood. I hadn't noticed that, my search for "Solder fume extractors) came up with Digi-Key UK so I looked at those but didn't check the voltage. Rapid also list it at 230V and a lower price; https://www.rapidonline.com/anvil-av-ext-fume-extractor-esd-85-5920 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted April 16, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 16, 2019 I got one of the ones GEHerts posted a link to, from a UK ebay seller and when it arrived it was 220-240V input. I'm not sure I'm convinced by the efficacy of it. It simply sucks the fumes in and exhausts them upwards out of the back of the machine, further away from the work piece, yes, but closer to my nose! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david65061 Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Dear Mike I am building one of your North British 0-4-0 kits at present and am enjoying it, it is a nice kit to build but I am a bit stumped with one point. Please could you tell me how I attach firmly the brass fly cranks to the stainless steel stepped axle? If it is a push fit there would appear to be a fine line too tight and too loose. Or should I use some thing like Loctite to stick them together? thanks. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 3 hours ago, david65061 said: Dear Mike I am building one of your North British 0-4-0 kits at present and am enjoying it, it is a nice kit to build but I am a bit stumped with one point. Please could you tell me how I attach firmly the brass fly cranks to the stainless steel stepped axle? If it is a push fit there would appear to be a fine line too tight and too loose. Or should I use some thing like Loctite to stick them together? thanks. David Hi David, I've built one of these and the axle is, so far as I know, silver steel and amenable to soldering. It must be because that's how I did it (it may even be how the instructions suggest doing it, I honestly can't remember). There's a thread about it: Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david65061 Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 Dear Adam Thanks for the reply. I will try soldering it. I had assumed wrongly that it would not solder. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 29, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2019 The cranks should be a press fit on the axle supplied, depends to some extent on how well aligned they are before soldering up. They may need reaming slightly but shouldn't be loose, if they are soldering or Loctite should be OK. The axles are usually made from stainless steel but some are from unused Gibson axles and I don't know what sort of steel these are, other than that they are extremely free cutting. If only one is a bit loose, solder that one up first and adjust with the other one. I don't know what you use as flux, phosphoric acid is what I use but the 9% stuff isn't strong enough for steel. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted April 29, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 29, 2019 Many thanks to you guys for your advice regarding the Fell that you gave me at York, it is much appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jub45565 Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Carrs black label flux is what I use for steel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 30, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 30, 2019 I don't know what that one is but some of the Carr's fluxes are extremely corrosive - especially on steel - and should be washed off immediately. i won't have them in my workshop, phosphoric acid does everything and is completely safe on steel - it's the basis of rust proofers actually. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted May 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2019 Hi Mike Will you have the Fowler 150 DM with you at RAILEX by any chance? Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted May 15, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 15, 2019 I will, might even get some more work done on it when we get back from France. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted May 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2019 2 hours ago, Michael Edge said: I will, might even get some more work done on it when we get back from France. Thanks I will make sure to drop by. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Nolton Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 Recently completed Mike's 48ds which is a lovely wee kit and goes together like a dream. Was worried there was insufficient play on the compensated axle, but running last weekend on Chris McCarthy's test track proved it works perfectly. Will be seen running on UNITED MILLS on its next outing at St Andrews exhibition. 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted May 31, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2019 Very nice job! Baz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted May 31, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2019 Some more progress with the 150hp Fowler. The radiator is a resin moulding, easy to add to the casing since it is slightly wider, the later radiator casing will be included in the etch. Frames are complete and painted now for 600s, this is 00 gauge and it's becoming apparent that clearances will be minimal in wider gauges. The motor fitted is a small square one on a High Level gearbox, the engine casing is very narrow and there isn't much length available without intruding into the cab. There were two superb examples built from our kits at Railex last weekend, this Hunslet 75T 0-6-0DE on Bottom Works Sidings, well finished and weathered in British Steel livery Another incredible 2mm model from Alex Duckworth, the EB1, seen on Alan Whitehouse's MSW layout. 18 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted May 31, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2019 9 hours ago, Ray Nolton said: Recently completed Mike's 48ds which is a lovely wee kit and goes together like a dream. Was worried there was insufficient play on the compensated axle, but running last weekend on Chris McCarthy's test track proved it works perfectly. Will be seen running on UNITED MILLS on its next outing at St Andrews exhibition. That's what a 48DS should look like, and to think some people will buy the Hornby model, incredible. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 27 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said: ... and to think some people will buy the Hornby model, incredible. If they're anything like me, some of those people with the Hornby on order will be those whose eyesight and dexterity, being not what it used to be, precludes kitbuilding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted May 31, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2019 How is the Stanier 2-6-2 test build progressing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted May 31, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2019 It isn't at the moment, more will be posted when I get back to it. Frames, footplate, cab, tanks and bunker assembled so far - boiler next. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
benachie Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 Mike, what's the current position on the Gresley V4? Alan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 4 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said: That's what a 48DS should look like, and to think some people will buy the Hornby model, incredible. Mike. I'm buying the Hornby model. Mainly because I know I couldn't replicate the livery of the whiskey one. https://www.hattons.co.uk/430611/hornby_r3707_ruston_48ds_queen_anne_in_longmorn_distillery_livery_with_match_wagon/stockdetail.aspx That's the deal breaker I'm afraid. But if I was after a bog standard one then I would go down the JE route. I probably will as I wouldn't mind this one as well. Obviously in the condition before it was stuffed and mounted. Photo from Wiki common user. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted May 31, 2019 Administrators Share Posted May 31, 2019 5 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said: That's what a 48DS should look like, and to think some people will buy the Hornby model, incredible. Mike. How very dare they? How dare they chose to do their hobby in a way they like? What a disgrace! 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TheQ Posted May 31, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2019 (edited) 24 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said: I'm buying the Hornby model. Mainly because I know I couldn't replicate the livery of the whiskey one. https://www.hattons.co.uk/430611/hornby_r3707_ruston_48ds_queen_anne_in_longmorn_distillery_livery_with_match_wagon/stockdetail.aspx Whiskey? whats that? it only ever says Whisky on my bottles.. Edited May 31, 2019 by TheQ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 4 minutes ago, TheQ said: Whiskey? whats that? it only ever says Whisky on my bottles.. Oh dear! Blame the spellchecker. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tullygrainey Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 54 minutes ago, TheQ said: Whiskey? whats that? it only ever says Whisky on my bottles.. Depends on the origin of your tipple I guess! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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