Judith Edge kits

[Michael Edge]

I haven't done that with the balance weights anyway, could put some more layers in for modellers with masochistic tendencies though.....

[billbedford]

14 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

 P4 modellers do of course have wheels of nearly scale thickness.

 

 

But the front faces of both EM and P4 wheel have the same width ie ~22mm.

[PenrithBeacon]

3 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Rather an insulting insinuation methinks, you only have to look at photo's of the real thing and realise the 12" to the foot model was dealing with fag paper clearances.

 

 

Also, the balance weights protruding from the wheel face don't help.

 

Mike.

I wasn't insinuating anything about anyone else, just expressing an anxiety about my own abilities

 

18 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said:

... but now I'm wondering if a build would survive my lack of craftsmanship. 

 

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Apologies, the mentioning of errors I read to infer a doubting of Mikes kit.

 

Mike.

[PenrithBeacon]

I think I will delay buying the kit until Mike has completed a build in EM. Bill has pointed out earlier, quite correctly, that overall there is much of a  difference between EM and P4 so I will wait on. Mike has mentioned before that it's better to use Markits crank pins in AGW wheels instead of the AGW crank pins. I bought some on this recommendation but, of course, I haven't actually built the locomotive they're intended for. 

[polybear]

4 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said:

Mike has mentioned before that it's better to use Markits crank pins in AGW wheels instead of the AGW crank pins.

 

I've not heard this before - what's the reason for this advice please?

[PenrithBeacon]

1 hour ago, polybear said:

 

I've not heard this before - what's the reason for this advice please?

As I understand it, using the Markits crankpins gives a closer dimensional approximation to the prototype.

[Daddyman]

On 08/06/2019 at 23:42, PenrithBeacon said:

As I understand it, using the Markits crankpins gives a closer dimensional approximation to the prototype.

Remember that Mike's advice is to use them without the overscale Markits nuts, though, and instead use a "nut" made of 1mm ID tube. 

 

I think when Mike ordered (!) me to stop faffing around with Gibson ones some years ago, the reasons were that the Markits/tube method was either less faff (the Gibson ones have a tendency to unscrew themselves) or better looking. Not sure but they might also be cheaper, and there are certainly fewer small parts to lose. 

 

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, Daddyman said:

Remember that Mike's advice is to use them without the overscale Markits nuts, though, and instead use a "nut" made of 1mm ID tube. 

 

I think when Mike ordered (!) me to stop faffing around with Gibson ones some years ago, the reasons were that the Markits/tube method was either less faff (the Gibson ones have a tendency to unscrew themselves) or better looking. Not sure but they might also be cheaper, and there are certainly fewer small parts to lose. 

 

A full size crankpin is a piece of plain steel bar about 4" diameter sticking out of the wheel face, old fashioned Romford crankpins are 3" diameter so fairly close. The loose bushes people are persuaded to use are usually too big resulting in large holes in the rods - full size bushes are pressed into the rods, not loose. The nuts provided are much thicker than full size ones and can't be recessed into the face of the rods - and this is sometimes necessary.

[PenrithBeacon]

2 hours ago, Daddyman said:

Remember that Mike's advice is to use them without the overscale Markits nuts, though, and instead use a "nut" made of 1mm ID tube. 

 

I think when Mike ordered (!) me to stop faffing around with Gibson ones some years ago, the reasons were that the Markits/tube method was either less faff (the Gibson ones have a tendency to unscrew themselves) or better looking. Not sure but they might also be cheaper, and there are certainly fewer small parts to lose. 

 

Not being sure of my ability to make, by hand, 1mm i/d washers I bought some off the internet and when I finally get around to actually doing the job I shall experiment with these. The main issue seems to be soldering them to the crankpin without melting the plastic centred wheel!

[Daddyman]

7 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said:

Not being sure of my ability to make, by hand, 1mm i/d washers I bought some off the internet and when I finally get around to actually doing the job I shall experiment with these. The main issue seems to be soldering them to the crankpin without melting the plastic centred wheel!

I'm possibly slightly heretical on this as I superglue them. And sometimes not even that, as I find that by the time you have cut the tube and crankpins off, and filed them down, they're sort of "bonded" anyway. 

 

No need to make 1mm washers - use 1mm ID tube. 

[david65061]

Could I ask do you need to drill a larger hole in the Gibson wheel to fit the markits crank pin, or even cut a thread as well or can you just screw the crank pin in as you would the gibson one? Thanks.

 

regards

 

David

[Michael Edge]

Yes, drill 1.4mm to tap 10BA, if you try to just crew it in you may split the wheel moulding. 

The trick in soldering fasteners (I use slices of 1mm I.D. tube) is to do it quickly.

[PenrithBeacon]

21 hours ago, Daddyman said:

...

 

No need to make 1mm washers - use 1mm ID tube. 

If you cut a slice of a 1mm i/d tube, do you not make a 1mm washer? Perhaps I've lost the thread ...

[Traintresta]

1 hour ago, PenrithBeacon said:

If you cut a slice of a 1mm i/d tube, do you not make a 1mm washer? Perhaps I've lost the thread ...

Does that mean your untapped :-D

[Bucoops]

2 hours ago, PenrithBeacon said:

If you cut a slice of a 1mm i/d tube, do you not make a 1mm washer? Perhaps I've lost the thread ...

 

I'm *guessing* the tube will have a much smaller (and therefore more realistic) outside diameter than a washer?

[Daddyman]

15 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

I'm *guessing* the tube will have a much smaller (and therefore more realistic) outside diameter than a washer?

Exactly, yes. 1mm ID tube means 1.2 or 1.5 OD (can't remember which, sorry). 

 

And, yes, I suppose it could count as a "washer". 

[polybear]

5 minutes ago, Daddyman said:

Exactly, yes. 1mm ID tube means 1.2 or 1.5 OD (can't remember which, sorry). 

 

And, yes, I suppose it could count as a "washer". 

 

1.5 O.D.

[cctransuk]

4 hours ago, polybear said:

 

1.5 O.D.

 

Small bore tube is usually available as thin and thick-walled.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[Michael Edge]

Next 4mm kit is likely to be this Fowler 150hp 0-4-0DM We might have the etches in time for Scaleforum but no promises, definitely this autumn though.

 

 

This is the first build of the test etch, as Southern 400s, the kit will include parts for the later type radiator as well as this one which is a one piece moulding. The two SR locos, BR ED7 and most of the industrial locos are of this type, unfortunately the other LMR departmentals ED2-6 were of a slightly different short wheelbase variety - we may do something for these later. More details on the separate thread fro the 150hp Fowler.

On the 7mm front we have now put the Hunslet 16" 0-6-0ST into production, the early Hunslet 05 is waiting for moulding patterns but otherwise ready.

Finally, in the face of ever increasing material costs  we will be increasing all prices from mid September, last chance to buy at old prices will be EM autumn show in Wakefield.

[EHertsGER]

For those contemplating cutting washers from tube, I find mounting the tube in a pin vice with the washer thickness plus blade thickness protruding and cutting them off flush to the face of the pin vice works well - for me, anyway. I use a fine, taut fretsaw.

[Blandford1969]

Is there any more progress on the Stanier 2-6-2?

[Michael Edge]

I've done a little more work on the Stanier 2-6-2T, built and fitted the boiler. This is the first time I have etched a taper boiler and it has come out quite well, only a couple of small tweaks necessary.

 

 

Firebox front is made from two layers of .015" n/s which gives enough depth to file the curves on the top corners before soldering the boiler barrel on, the discolouration is the result of annealing it before rolling. The smokebox front will need to be two layers as well to make it easier to set in the wrapper before soldering, not visible is another etched ring in the front end of the boiler, this also needs doubling. The smokebox rivets are too small, they are going to be nearly invisible when this is painted, smokebox saddle worked out reasonably well.

We will have this with us at the EM show this weekend.

More general news, we have finally been forced to increase prices in the face of ever increasing material costs, all kits will be on sale at the current prices this weekend, increases will be shown on the price lists to apply from Monday 9th September.

[Michael Edge]

We should have the production etches for the 150hp Fowler next week, no price yet but that means we will have some for Scaleforum at the end of this month.

[decauville1126]

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

We should have the production etches for the 150hp Fowler next week, no price yet but that means we will have some for Scaleforum at the end of this month.

 

Excellent news - email sent to reserve for Scaleforum.

 

Can you please post here the shopping list of suggested wheels, motor, gearbox, etc., as it's always handy to be able to pick these up at the same time ? Thanks.