Judith Edge kits

[D9001]

Very nearly a quid to send a letter by Royal Mail now. When we went decimal in February 1971, first class post was 3p the equivalent of 43p in today’s values, but the cost today is actually almost twice that at 85p.  Larger letters and parcels are correspondingly more. And Royal Mail wonder why people do their best not to use them.

[Michael Edge]

More progress in 7mm yesterday.

Test etch assembled for the 7mm 05, this is a modified version of the controls of the New Zealand Dsa, rescaled to 7mm. It's not quite the same as the 05 and the instrument panel will be different but it serves to evaluate how it goes together and will fit in the cab. 

We'll get the production etches done for this now (just moulded seats remaining to be done), we're still waiting for the production Hunslet 325hp 50T 0-6-0DH from PhotoEtch. These were ordered in November but they are having difficulties with supplies of brass. 

[Barry O]

26 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

More progress in 7mm yesterday.

Test etch assembled for the 7mm 05, this is a modified version of the controls of the New Zealand Dsa, rescaled to 7mm. It's not quite the same as the 05 and the instrument panel will be different but it serves to evaluate how it goes together and will fit in the cab. 

We'll get the production etches done for this now (just moulded seats remaining to be done), we're still waiting for the production Hunslet 325hp 50T 0-6-0DH from PhotoEtch. These were ordered in November but they are having difficulties with supplies of brass. 

Mike

 

Looks like an early flying machine to me...

 

Baz

[Michael Edge]

You can actually see quite a lot of the controls through the cab windows.

[Daddyman]

I've been working on one of Mike's V4 kits and thought the following picture sequence showing how I've done the beading on the cab and tender might be useful to anyone who has one of these kits. 

 

According to Dave Bradwell's 3500-gallon tender, the beading should be 0.45mm, so the first job is to solder two pieces of .45 N/S wire side by side on a flat surface (it has to be absolutely flat - I'm using a piece of Tufnol here; the lengths of soldered wire should be as long as the job requires - in the photo below I've only started the soldering):  

 

Next job is to carefully bend the two pieces of wire, side by side, to the contours of the tender/cab edges. Hopefully it should be obvious why I solder the two bits of wire side by side: so that I only have to do the bending once!

 

The temptation when shaping the wires is to get it near enough there, but it only takes a few minutes more to get it right: 

 

(The eagle-eyed will notice I've foolishly filed the splay on the footplate off by accident. Duh!) 

 

Once the two pieces of wire have been bent to the correct shape, they can be separated from each other: 

 

The next job is to file or sand the rear of the wire, to get the correct half-round profile. To do this I solder the wire face-down onto a piece of PCB (there's a danger if I didn't do that that the wire would get distorted during sanding/filing). This is the result - hopefully you can see that the one on the left has been flattened on the rear: 

 

 

Finally, offer up the beading (I altered the line that the beading takes from the kit in order to match photos; it also seems from photos in Yeadon that the beading doesn't flick up at the top corner but ends horizontally, which is always nice). If all is well, solder it on: 

 

That's it!

 

Now on to the next thing to worry about - the boiler? 

 

Edited January 18, 2021 by Daddyman

[D602bulldog]

On 15/11/2020 at 15:47, Michael Edge said:

There won't be any specific drive arrangement included, it has been designed round Slater's 7136 wheels - these are a bit on the small side so the frame height has been adjusted in the production etch. Any small motor/gearbox for 1/8th axles will do and a pair of 8T sprockets and chain to connect the axles.

The one I have built has one of the n20 motors with a spur gearbox driving on to the axle with a couple of plastic spur gears. I could have done this with a motor to each axle but this one small motor has more power than this tiny loco could ever use.

Hi i was wondering where do you get the white gears from for these n20 motors

 

Edited February 4, 2021 by D602bulldog

[AlfaZagato]

Mike cut down gears from a bulk bag he picked up.   You can find 3d-printed gears on eBay made-to-fit on the N20 motors.

[Michael Edge]

10 hours ago, D602bulldog said:

Hi i was wondering where do you get the white gears from for these n20 motors

 

I've found a UK supplier for these gears (.5 module) now - www.technobotsonline.com/plastic-model-gears.html.

[New Haven Neil]

While I'm waiting....

 

I spent a lot of time just here!

 

[Wagonmaster]

Any news on the LMS Drewry 7050 kit yet? Looking forward to building it when available.

[Michael Edge]

We have some etches now but I still have to write all the instructions.

[Simon Moore]

On 05/01/2021 at 16:28, Michael Edge said:

First version of the Sentinel 0-6-0 now finished with all its mouldings.

The huge dumb buffers and electric headlights were only on the Dorman Long locos, the prototype loco and the GKN ones had conventional buffers - not all had the full set of lamp brackets seen here either.

 

Looking forward to getting my mitts on that. What a lovely model & will go well with the other steelworking machines.

[DA]

Mike:

 

I hope you don’t mind my posting this here, I build this N5 from a set of your etches. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, although the rivets did seem to go on for ever.  

 

Edited November 29, 2022 by DA
Replace image

[Michael Edge]

Thank you very much for posting the photo, we always like to see (and collect!) pictures of finished kits. I quite agree about the rivets but don't blame me....

[Gordon A]

On 12/02/2012 at 11:14, Barry O said:

Hello everyone,

 

Judith has let me know that Mike is in Hospital so the usual support from Judith Edge may not be at its speediest.

 

Barry Oliver

Leeds MRS

Nothing serious I hope?

 

Gordon A

[Barry O]

44 minutes ago, Gordon A said:

Nothing serious I hope?

 

Gordon A

That was 8 years ago..seems fit and healthy now

[Michael Edge]

Nine years ago actually (after a heart attack) - where has this surfaced from?

I can assure everyone that Judith and I are fit and well.

[Nile]

Way back on page 1.

[mark axlecounter]

This is the fowler 2-6-2 tank from Mike, I am very happy with this kit and what enjoyment I got out of it. 
Just needs weathering to hide the lining. 
sorry for hijacking but people who have not done one of these they Ned to get one. 
 

Mark T

[Ruston]

On 20/02/2021 at 07:30, Michael Edge said:

Thank you very much for posting the photo, we always like to see (and collect!) pictures of finished kits.

One here for you. It's only taken 10 months to finish.

 

[30368]

On 20/02/2021 at 15:32, mark axlecounter said:

This is the fowler 2-6-2 tank from Mike, I am very happy with this kit and what enjoyment I got out of it. 
Just needs weathering to hide the lining. 

 

Lovely work Mark, lining transfers(?) can be a devil though. If you have done the lining by hand - well done I don't have the knack! The kits are first class.

 

40022 was the first ex LMS engine I ever saw at St Panc. so many, many, years ago. That loco had condensing gear fitted though.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[mark axlecounter]

3 hours ago, 30368 said:

 

Lovely work Mark, lining transfers(?) can be a devil though. If you have done the lining by hand - well done I don't have the knack! The kits are first class.

 

40022 was the first ex LMS engine I ever saw at St Panc. so many, many, years ago. That loco had condensing gear fitted though.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

The lining is from the hmrs sheet pressfix range. You only have one shot at them, but if they have been done right they look good. 

 

I have done one Loco with a bow pen but that nearly drove me insane, need to practice a lot using the bow pen. 
 

[Michael Edge]

Not long now for the LMS Drewry 0-4-0DM, we have the etches and mouldings but I'm just building most of another one while I check it and write the instructions.

[Wagonmaster]

46 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

Not long now for the LMS Drewry 0-4-0DM, we have the etches and mouldings but I'm just building most of another one while I check it and write the instructions.

 

Great news! Put me down for one!

[Michael Edge]

This is the spare second test etch from quite a few years ago, it's nickel silver but the production etches are brass.

We're still waiting for the L&Y Pug driving wheels from Gibson (ordered last November!) but I found these 3ft diameter diesel wheels which will do for now to set it up on, they are the same tyre size and go on 1/8th axles. This is the later closed cab, originally the sides were open, both options are on the etch. There was also some sort of exhaust gas conditioner on the cab roof, this was removed, probably in 1944 when 7050 acquired a Gardner engine. I'll build this one as it was for most of its life with the MoD.

The three main components here, frames and wheels which will be left like this for now, footplate with the inner cab floor and the cab/engine casing. The cab is complete, engine casing just started with the sides soldered to the base. It's really important to keep this flat, photo shows how I sand it on a piece of wet and dry laid on the bench top - and check it at every stage. This part of the body is nearly all of the torsional stiffness of the model, if this isn't straight nothing else will be when it's all bolted up.

Radiator end attached now, there is an outer layer to this but it wasn't correctly etched on the test so I've left it off for now. I fitted all the doors and handgrabs while the sides were flat, I'm coming round to the idea that this is the best option for many of the kits now.

The casing top was a bit difficult to form in nickel silver, the brass production ones will be much easier. It will be just soldered on top of the sides, there's an etched strip to conceal the joint line.There is a former for the back end of the engine casing but as usual I've left it out to make soldering to the cab front easier, it is needed to check the hape of the top while forming the curves though.