RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted April 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 17, 2018 (edited) Mike built and painted it. I was "lent" some colour photos long boiler dirty 3 quarter front (1280x680).jpg add some inks and powders long boiler side on dirty (1280x634).jpg and Bob is your uncle close up dirty long boiler front (1168x1280).jpg Nice loco, lovely paint job and nice to have a happy client long boiler dirty 3 quarters dirty (1280x706).jpg But you can paint one of these (in NCB days) in light blue! I too have a kit just need to get on and build it! Baz That's certainly the way I remember them. the line from Derwenthaugh was less than a mile from my home and I crossed it every day on my way to Blaydon Grammar School. ArthurK Edited April 17, 2018 by ArthurK 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 19, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 19, 2018 Amazing to see the detail and stages you go through Mike. Out of curiosity, what rubber do you use to make the moulds below? I'm using Sylmasta 370 at the moment, it seems to be a reasonable compromise between flexibility and mould life. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 19, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 19, 2018 A few final details before moving on to the running gear and motion. The outline of the tank balance pipe is attached to the inner cab floor, not directly, I had to add a bit of scrap. In hindsight the cab steps would have been better fitted here rather than under the footplate. This is the reason for that bit of hindsight, the injector delivery pipe passes in front of the balance pipe and behind the cab step - the turn in of the step plate prevents the frame being withdrawn from below with the injectors fitted. It just about wriggles out by moving the frames forward first. Early locos like this had two live steam injectors, later ones had an exhaust injector on the fireman's side. Frames now ready to paint, all brake and sanding gear fitted, cylinders finished, including the drain cocks. The link pivots are fitted to the slidebar bracket, notice the hole in the frame plate corresponding to the link pivot position. This something I do on nearly all locos, getting the link pivot in the right place is key to accurately moving valve gear. There are a few locos on which it isn't really possible though, mostly LNER examples I have come across where the link pivot coincides with a driving wheel tyre. Balance weights need two thicknesses of etch to finish flush with the Slater's wheel rims. Motor and gearbox masked off ready for spraying. The slidebars are made but not fitted yed, they peg into the cylinders and locate under the bracket. Sprayed all over with Halfords etch primer, I also masked the crankpin screws before doing this. This was followed by three coats of Hycote satin black, turning the wheels round to make sure all the visible frame was painted. Wheel treads cleaned off and it's ready for the motion to be fitted but I seem to have forgotten to photograph this stage. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted April 23, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 23, 2018 Wheel treads cleaned off One question if I may, please, Mike, how exactly do you achieve the cleaning of the wheel treads after one coat of primer and several of black? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad McCann Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 I imagine a thin film of light oil applied to the relevant area before painting would facilitate easier removal. D4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebbles Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Is that a D19 I see? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted April 23, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 23, 2018 I run each wheelset against a rubber ring on the top pulley of my small milling machine and hold a variety of scrapers against the rim, followed by wet and dry to finish. Best to do it before the paint fully hardens. The loco in the background in some shots is an NER 4cc 4-4-0 (1619), scratchbuilt by me and I think painted by Dave Studley. It's for sale, asking price about £550. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Daddyman Posted April 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 25, 2018 IThe loco in the background in some shots is an NER 4cc 4-4-0 (1619), scratchbuilt by me and I think painted by Dave Studley. It's for sale, asking price about £550. Ken Hoole's favourite loco... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EHertsGER Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Certainly not. I'll be buying some heavy duty wasp spray to deal with the damn things this year. How's your Brush/ Beyer Peacock, Paul? Still a flatpack? Is 'heavy duty wasp spray' the paint made by the people who supply tartan paints too? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted May 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 9, 2018 Final instalment on the 7mm Fowler 2-6-2T All the motion is etched, this is how I laminate the layers together, starting with the connecting rods. The two halves are held together with broaches or similar through the holes to keep them in register, flux along the top and solder puddled along. Plenty of solder along the top to fill the dip between the two cusps, don't bother along the bottom, enough solder will go through by capillary action and it isn't visible. The coupling rod in this shot is the original type, fluted with an adjustable bearing for the leading crankpin, the later rods are also on the etch. Held in the vice and filed along the top, a large flat file with rounded corners is ideal for this job, finish by draw filing. Rat tailed needle files finish round the boss but not yet. Because I didn't etch anther layer I thickened the boss by the traditional method of soldering the rod to a piece of spare etch and sawing round it - then finished the shape with needle files. The coupling rods are laminated (in one piece with no knuckle joint) in the same way but with one important difference, no solder around the central crankpin hole. When completed I cut through one layer only (with a piercing saw) at each side of the crankpin hole, separated they will now articulate on the centre crankpin. The slidebars were made earlier but removed for painting, the crossheads have to be made and fitted before they are replaced (pegged through the cylinder ends) and soldered to the motion bracket. The crosshead face is etched and the drop link soldered on separately, a U shaped folded piece wraps round the back of the slidebar. Two small half etched parts at the front of the crosshead face wrap round the piston rod, union link, combining lever and radius rod are single thickness etches, no attempt at forked joints, they are simply made with soldered lace pins. The valve rod is flattened at one end and pinned to the combining lever, looks a bit messy but this will be hidden behind the representation of the valve spindle crosshead which will be fitted to the footplate angle. At the link end of the motion the locating wire can be seen, this threads through the frames to locate the trunnions accurately. Viewed from below showing the gap for the expansion link. Plenty of clearance over the leading crankpin, there was no need to recess the fastener although the nut was thinned down considerably. On this loco the leading crankpin and crosshead never coincide, making clearance even less important. All finally assembled, the link is laminated from 3 layers and packed with washers at each side, the radius rod runs through the centre. The return crank is one piece with a washer on the small end to space the eccentric rod out, there is also a washer between the crank and the con. rod. Not much of the lifting link and nothing of the weighshaft can be seen so these were ignored. The two part etch for the valve spindle crosshead is now soldered to the footplate angle, as with my usual practice the loco is left in mid gear but the valve spindle is still free to move with the action of the combining lever. The completed loco from both sides and ends on the test track, all ready now for Ian Rathbone's attention. I hope this has been of interest and useful, most of it is equally applicable to the 4mm version which is now in production (but temporarily out of stock - the first batch sold very quickly). 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Hello, I am requesting help or assistance regarding the following .... I have purchased a set of Etches from Mike to hopefully build the LNER/BR S1 0-8-4T Hump Shunter I intend to create this monster in its later days under BR ownership What I basically need is a list of Castings and other 'bits and bobs' that are required to complete this build. What is required and which Manufacturer they are available from. Many thanks to anyone who can help Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Another Fell Mike kindly gave me a set of test etches and this is the result. The "uncoupled" version late in life. To drive both ends I built up a gearbox using gears from Ebay but I understand that a gearbox will be available from High Level when production begins. NIck 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Roger Sunderland Posted May 31, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2018 Hello Mike Very interesting build for the Fowler. Any idea when the 4mm version will be back in stock and is it a complete kit (less motor wheels etc) or body etches? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Decorum Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Another Fell NIck I love it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty.ian Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Another Fell fell at chapel.jpg Mike kindly gave me a set of test etches and this is the result. The "uncoupled" version late in life. fell gearbox.jpg To drive both ends I built up a gearbox using gears from Ebay but I understand that a gearbox will be available from High Level when production begins. NIck Great Nick, looking forward to seeing it sometime, whirling red cranks and all. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted May 31, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 31, 2018 Hello Mike Very interesting build for the Fowler. Any idea when the 4mm version will be back in stock and is it a complete kit (less motor wheels etc) or body etches? We will be ordering more next week, hope to have them by the end of June. It's not a complete kit, just etched parts (all except boiler and firebox), no mouldings. The instructions include a list of where nearly all the fittings can be obtained from. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Roger Sunderland Posted June 2, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 2, 2018 We will be ordering more next week, hope to have them by the end of June. It's not a complete kit, just etched parts (all except boiler and firebox), no mouldings. The instructions include a list of where nearly all the fittings can be obtained from. Thanks Michael. I will contact you at the end of June Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold innocentman Posted June 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2018 Construction of my Judith Edge Fowler 2-6-2t is now in full swing Having opted for a rivet covered 40061 with Pull push Gear (See http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/20479-Bachmann-class-40-to-be-re-tooled/?p=206519) I have just spent a couple of evenings with my trusty Midland riveting tool Pleased with the result, although I'm not sure about the top row of rivets as the are appear half in the etched rebate for the beading around the top of the tank Overall, very pleased with the kit. Andy 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Great Nick, looking forward to seeing it sometime, whirling red cranks and all. Now available on YouTube https://youtu.be/6Xks7YulJBQ Nick 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted June 7, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2018 Now available on YouTube https://youtu.be/6Xks7YulJBQ Nick Very nice. I think that's what you call a busy locomotive! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Now available on YouTube https://youtu.be/6Xks7YulJBQ Nick Should the coupling rods be in synch? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 Should the coupling rods be in synch? Yes - the four axles were gear-coupled as well as originally having three coupling rods. The rods and gears 'fought' each other, and the centre rod were removed - though the remaining rods remained in sync. due to the gear coupling. For me, this is a 'must have' loco - just a shame that Heljan 'bottled out' !! Never mind - Mike to the rescue soon, I hope. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 A better video showing the synchronized cramks NIck 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted June 7, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2018 and it beats as it sweeps as it cleans!! Baz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 What a noise. You won't need a sound chip. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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