cctransuk Posted June 7, 2018 Share Posted June 7, 2018 A better video showing the synchronized cramks NIck Ohhh don't !! NURSE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Are we there yet, Mike? Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted June 7, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2018 What a noise. You won't need a sound chip. Gordon A with so many engines, and with manual control of four of them any sound chip would be an interesting challenge! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 8, 2018 Share Posted June 8, 2018 The grinding gear noise and cavernous soundbox body amplification probably makes a Fell sound chip unnecessary, as it sounds like a diesel as soon as power is applied. The Fell is a terrible sight to behold! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted June 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2018 But we know you want one.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 But we know you want one.... It's the one I wouldn't want. Wouldn't mind a gas-turbine 18000, though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 It's the one I wouldn't want. Whhhhaaaaat ? How can you resist those twirling flycranks? There must be a subconscious association with exotic dancers !! Regards, John Isherwood. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 It's the one I wouldn't want. Wouldn't mind a gas-turbine 18000, though. Here is 18000 , I believe built from a NoNonsense Kit ...... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted June 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2018 Here is 18000 , I believe built from a NoNonsense Kit ...... I've got a Modern Shrapnel Kits one waiting to be built. Don't think it will turn out as nice as that though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty.ian Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 A better video showing the synchronized cramks NIck Nick, just back to the web world, what a welcome. Those synchronised cranks are great, and it suits green. Lofty 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted June 12, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2018 Hi is the Fowler 2-6-2 back in stock yet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 15, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 15, 2018 Not yet, we've ordered some more, usually takes 3-4 weeks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Nolton Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 Here's Mike's Brush shunter built to P4 standards, Gibson coach wheels, Mashima motor and High Level gearbox. Uses the Industrial cab rather than the D2999 version, and in the fictitious livery of the United Mills Company (the layout is due to debut at ModelRail Glasgow next February. 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ray Nolton Posted June 29, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted June 29, 2018 And a couple of JE Barclays which I built some years ago in OO and have recently converted to P4 for use on United Mills 22 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg1 Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 Hello Ray I like the shunters-NB I think? I wondered what springing arrangement you have for P4? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Nolton Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 I was a bit hashy yesterday: in fact the black one is an NBL product whilst the green one is of course a Barclay which became TOPS Class 06. I have a couple more of Mike's shunters in the stash, which will no doubt appear in due course, Trouble is, I'm in danger of having more locos than track to put them on given the small size if the layout! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 30, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 30, 2018 Judging by the photo of the inner frame of the Brush Ray has used the built in compensating system on this one at least. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Nolton Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 Mike is right, I have used a simple compensation pivot on all the locos shown, and the designed system on the Brush: almost essential on an 0-4-0 to maintain electrical continuity whatever the gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2018 I've just finished building the second test etch for the Horwich 0F 0-4-0ST, we should have this on sale for EM North in September. Sanding gear not finished, still waiting for mouldings for the leading sandboxes but patterns are done. Some step by step photos follow, much of this is equally applicable to the original Kitson loco. Frame and footplate assembly, since this will be purely a display model I've built it in EM gauge with Gibson wheels as recommended in the instructions. The crankpins are Markits plain Romford type screwed into the Gibson wheels after tapping them 10BA. Cylinder ends have to go in at an early stage but nothing else will go on the frames for the moment. View from the top This kit follows the same modular construction as our other steam locos, first job is to assemble the cab on its base, the central portion will be soldered to the footplate. Both bunkers fitted now before the roof goes on. Rear lamp brackets and the locker attached now while I can still get the soldering iron to the inside. This shows the cab and smokebox bases bolted to the footplate, cab roof formed and ready to fit. The 14BA screws under the smokebox will need to be shortened to the tops of the nuts to clear the boiler. Inner bunker sides fitted now, boiler rolled and soldered to the cab, it locates in a half etch here. No need for the lower part of the firebox, it can't be seen behind the bunkers. Tank rolled and endplates ready to laminate together and attach. View from below shows the big hole for the motor to go through, High Level Roadrunner+ is recommended for this loco. Smokebox front goes on next, soldered to the smokebox base and the boiler. Smokebox wrapper added and tank finished with all handrails. At this stage I would put some lead ballast in the tank for a working model. The tank sits on the smokebox but not on the boiler, there is a large gap there. The tank is actually carried on four large brackets seen here soldered to the boiler and smokebox. This is a good point to add the injector piping. The injectors are at the back of the tank but I can't find any good photos of them, soldering the feed pipe, delivery pipe and overflow (runs down through the hole in the footplate) looks reasonable. The tank balance pipe is a little problematical, if fitted to the tank it makes it impossible to remove the tank from the boiler, also I can't see how far down in the frames it goes so the simple solution was to solder it to the bottom of the boiler and just located in holes under the tank. That more or less completes the body so back to the frames next. 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Looks sweet. Is there any facility for the front axle to be built as a rocking axle? Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted July 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2018 Looks sweet. Is there any facility for the front axle to be built as a rocking axle? Gordon A Looking at the photo of the underneath, it looks to me as it the leading axle is running on a centre pivot as assembled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 9, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 9, 2018 Yes, usual system, drive on fixed trailing axle. I'll mark the frames for High Level hornblocks as well for anyone who wants to make it more difficult. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 10, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2018 Frames completed to the point (apart from sandboxes) where I would normally paint them. Only the leading springs are required this time, the trailing ones are hidden behind the bunkers. The reach rod is etched full length to locate in a hole in the cab front but since this is all but invisible I didn't bother. Cylinders completed apart from the front covers, slidebars cut to fit but not in place yet, they go right through the cylinders in etched holes. Brakes, balance weights and guard irons all fitted now and at this point I check that the coupling rods fit and the quartering is accurate. If it was a running model the gearbox would also be fitted now. View from below showing brake cross shaft, handbrake arm and cylinder drain linkage. Next stage is to fit the coupling rods, they are retained on the leading wheels with thin slices of 1mm I.D. tubing secured with a light dab of solder. Don't linger here, if the crankpin gets too hot it will loosen and move in the wheel, file the end smooth to make this as thin as possible. Next job is to make the crossheads, these are etched in two parts (front and back) with half etched fingers to wrap round the piston rod. This is the back, fitted to a length of .8mm n/s wire, the little end can be made with a pin or a short length of wire, either way keep it flush on the back. Slidebars fitted now and the outer layer of the crosshead in place, pin is temporary at this stage to hold it in alignment while it is soldered at the piston rod end. Final assembly, the little end of the connecting rod spaces the two layers of the crosshead apart, both have a half etch to locate on the slidebars, the pin is soldered to both layers to make the whole thing stronger. The connecting rods has to be well greased before assembly to avoid the solder creeping in and locking everything up. The excess length of piston rod can now be cut off, con. rod disconnected and pushed a little forward off the trailing crankpin to leave enough clearance at the front end of the cylinder (cover not fitted yet). View from below showing clearance behind the crosshead. There isn't very much room here in EM gauge but there is enough, main points are that there should be no slideplay on the leading axle and that the coupling rod fasteners should be as thin as possible. There is no room for the loose bush and nut system here. If more clearance is required then the next step would be to thin down the boss on the coupling rod and/or recess the crankpin fastener - both of these are normal full size practice where required. P4 should be about the same, the gauge is wider but the wheels are thinner. back view of completed loco. Finally two views of 47005 next to the original Kitson design, although they were essentially the same loco there are actually very few parts in common between the two versions. 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Yes, usual system, drive on fixed trailing axle. I'll mark the frames for High Level hornblocks as well for anyone who wants to make it more difficult. Mike Thank you for your reply. I could be very tempted at Scaleforum - if you have any left. Have you thought about including a pair of L shaped swinging arms for the front axle? The back end could be pivoted of the wire for the rear brake hangar. L shaped so as not to be visible through the frame cut out. Gordon A 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 10, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 10, 2018 No need for an L shape, the arms are pivoted just behind the front cylinder covers and run more or less straight. The frame cut out is completely empty, feel free to put the valve gear in if you like..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 No need for an L shape, the arms are pivoted just behind the front cylinder covers and run more or less straight. The frame cut out is completely empty, feel free to put the valve gear in if you like..... Thanks Mike. See you in September. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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