Judith Edge kits

[St Enodoc]

at this point I check that the coupling rods fit and the quartering is accurate.

Mike, any particular reason why you don't do this as soon as the wheels go in?

[PenrithBeacon]

I like the idea of using Markits crankpins in AGW wheels to give more space behind the crosshead. I would imagine though that you have to be pretty nippy with the soldering iron!

 

One for the future projects. Thanks

[Michael Edge]

Mike, any particular reason why you don't do this as soon as the wheels go in?

 

I do but as I said this is the point where the frames and wheels get painted so I would check it again.

[Mad McCann]

It’s a shame we don’t have self-quartering wheels with the finesse and availability of AGW.

Gibson’s are a bit of a pain to install on a rigid chassis.

[St Enodoc]

I do but as I said this is the point where the frames and wheels get painted so I would check it again.

Ah, I see. Thanks.

[polybear]

It’s a shame we don’t have self-quartering wheels with the finesse and availability of AGW.

Gibson’s are a bit of a pain to install on a rigid chassis.

 

I seem to recall AGW mentioning they had plans for such wheels, but that was several years ago and it's all gone very quiet....

[Horsetan]

I seem to recall AGW mentioning they had plans for such wheels, but that was several years ago and it's all gone very quiet....

 

That's because they don't have the time. It's difficult enough keeping up with the daily requirements as it is.

[Mad McCann]

That's because they don't have the time. It's difficult enough keeping up with the daily requirements as it is.

 

Understood. It's a pity all the same.

[Captain Kernow]

I like the idea of using Markits crankpins in AGW wheels to give more space behind the crosshead. I would imagine though that you have to be pretty nippy with the soldering iron!

 

Not necessarily, although it might depend on which type of Markits crankpin is being used.

 

Next chassis I build with Gibson wheels will see the crankpin holes tapped to 12BA, to match Markits crankpins (the original type). I will then assemble the rods on the chassis and ensure it rolls OK, by holding the rods on temporarily with bits of plastic wire insulation. I will then solder the washer on away from the chassis, by holding the crankpin vertically in a vice, with some card to protect the screw thread. Once the washer is soldered on, I cut a shallow and narrow slot across the top of the washer with a fine piercing saw blade. This then enables the whole coupling rod assembly to be screwed into the wheels. Once painted and weathered, the narrow slot is hardly noticeable, but it makes construction of the chassis a lot easier, in my opinion. Not so practical if connecting rods or outside valve gear is required, admittedly.

[mozzer models]

Not necessarily, although it might depend on which type of Markits crankpin is being used.

 

Next chassis I build with Gibson wheels will see the crankpin holes tapped to 12BA, to match Markits crankpins (the original type). I will then assemble the rods on the chassis and ensure it rolls OK, by holding the rods on temporarily with bits of plastic wire insulation. I will then solder the washer on away from the chassis, by holding the crankpin vertically in a vice, with some card to protect the screw thread. Once the washer is soldered on, I cut a shallow and narrow slot across the top of the washer with a fine piercing saw blade. This then enables the whole coupling rod assembly to be screwed into the wheels. Once painted and weathered, the narrow slot is hardly noticeable, but it makes construction of the chassis a lot easier, in my opinion. Not so practical if connecting rods or outside valve gear is required, admittedly.

Just use the Romford deluxe crank pins  as there threaded so no need to solder 

[Michael Edge]

The point was to get away from the silly loose bush crankpin systems which nearly always come out too wide. A quick dab with the soldering iron is all that is needed - and you can still easily flick the retainer off if required for maintenance later. A really good solder joint isn't required here although it is for a return crank which can be more of a problem.

[PenrithBeacon]

The point was to get away from the silly loose bush crankpin systems which nearly always come out too wide. A quick dab with the soldering iron is all that is needed - and you can still easily flick the retainer off if required for maintenance later. A really good solder joint isn't required here although it is for a return crank which can be more of a problem.

May I ask which type of Markits crankpins you used Michael? Just to clear up the controversy.

[Michael Edge]

The original plain Romford crankpins which are 1mm diameter, retainers are slices of 1mm I.D. tube.

[PenrithBeacon]

The original plain Romford crankpins which are 1mm diameter, retainers are slices of 1mm I.D. tube.

Thanks for that. Does anybody know of a supplier of 1mm washers, please

[cctransuk]

Thanks for that. Does anybody know of a supplier of 1mm washers, please

 

A Google / Ebay search produced :-

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M0-6-M0-8-M1-0-M1-2-M1-4-M1-6-Miniature-Brass-Washers-x20-Pocher-Upgrade/141476696041?var=440627081547&hash=item20f0ab0fe9%3Ag%3ANCcAAOxymiVQ-I1h&_sacat=0&_nkw=M1+brass+washer&_from=R40&rt=nc

 

In my experience though, washers tend to be too loose a fit to serve as retaining washers on crankpins, if they have to be soldered.

 

The suggestion of a slice of 1.0mm. ID tube is by far the best idea; the fit is just right and the risk of errant solder is much diminished.

 

Regards,

John isherwood.

[PenrithBeacon]

A Google / Ebay search produced :-

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M0-6-M0-8-M1-0-M1-2-M1-4-M1-6-Miniature-Brass-Washers-x20-Pocher-Upgrade/141476696041?var=440627081547&hash=item20f0ab0fe9%3Ag%3ANCcAAOxymiVQ-I1h&_sacat=0&_nkw=M1+brass+washer&_from=R40&rt=nc

 

In my experience though, washers tend to be too loose a fit to serve as retaining washers on crankpins, if they have to be soldered.

 

The suggestion of a slice of 1.0mm. ID tube is by far the best idea; the fit is just right and the risk of errant solder is much diminished.

 

Regards,

John isherwood.

If you don’t have a lathe washers will have to do

Thanks for the link I’ve bought two packs

Edited July 18, 2018 by PenrithBeacon

[Adam]

If you don’t have a lathe washers will have to do

Thanks for the link I’ve bought two packs.

 

From experience, 1mm ID tube is quite easy to cut with nothing more sophisticated than a Stanley knife or, if thick-walled, a piercing saw. That's certainly how I do it...

 

Adam

[cctransuk]

If you don’t have a lathe washers will have to do

Thanks for the link I’ve bought two packs

 

Despite that - please don't try to solder washers as rod retainers; you'll end up using rude words !!

 

Adam's right - use a Stanley knife to cut the tube; just roll the tube under the blade until you've cut through it.

 

Put a length of 1.0mm. rod into the tube whilst doing so; it will stop the tube collapsing and ensure that the cut sliver doesn't disappear into the carpet.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited July 18, 2018 by cctransuk

[billbedford]

If you don’t have a lathe washers will have to do

 

 

 

Not necessarily, you could use one of these or even one of these

[PenrithBeacon]

OK, so it boils down to the thickness of the sliver doesn't it. Not sure about the tube cutter; in my experience, although they're a very useful tool in the appropriate situation they distort the i/d and can only be used where the length is many times greater than the diameter.

 

I'll have to think a little more about this, but during my apprenticeship I was taught a dodge to trick an inspector if a hole, plain or tapped, was too big. You put a ball bearing over the top of the hole and gently tapped it with a hammer. Perhaps a variation of this bodge could be used to reduce the i/d of a washer but using a centre punch due to the hole being so small.

[PenrithBeacon]

Despite that - please don't try to solder washers as rod retainers ...

 

...

IIRC Tony Wright does just that in his DVDs on locomotive building Edited July 18, 2018 by PenrithBeacon

[cctransuk]

IIRC Tony Wright does just that in his DVDs on locomotive building

 

They must be very tight-fitting washers, then.

 

However, if you are one of those modellers who has to learn by personal experience of the wrong way to do something, by all means go ahead. Just make sure that there are no sensitive ears in the vicinity.

 

I WAS a modeller who had to learn by personal experience of the wrong way to do something, but I now know that slivers of tube cut with a Stanley knife are the stressless way to do it.

 

Bear in mind that the slice of tube doesn't have to be too short - it can be filed back with the crankpin after soldering.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[billbedford]

OK, so it boils down to the thickness of the sliver doesn't it. Not sure about the tube cutter; in my experience, although they're a very useful tool in the appropriate situation they distort the i/d and can only be used where the length is many times greater than the diameter.

 

The other name for these tools is chenier cutters, ie they are designed for cutting small bore tubes. The one linked to takes tube with an o/d of 4.5mm 

 

I'll have to think a little more about this, but during my apprenticeship I was taught a dodge to trick an inspector if a hole, plain or tapped, was too big. You put a ball bearing over the top of the hole and gently tapped it with a hammer. Perhaps a variation of this bodge could be used to reduce the i/d of a washer but using a centre punch due to the hole being so small.[/size]

 

A centre punch will tend to increase the size of the bore, but if the end is rounded to, say, about 2mm diameter then it will probably work to decrease the bore.

Edited July 18, 2018 by billbedford

[jrg1]

Despite that - please don't try to solder washers as rod retainers; you'll end up using rude words !!

 

Adam's right - use a Stanley knife to cut the tube; just roll the tube under the blade until you've cut through it.

 

Put a length of 1.0mm. rod into the tube whilst doing so; it will stop the tube collapsing and ensure that the cut sliver doesn't disappear into the carpet.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

I suggest plastic rod-I use this when bending copper tube for pipework.  

[PenrithBeacon]

They must be very tight-fitting washers, then.

 

However, if you are one of those modellers who has to learn by personal experience of the wrong way to do something, by all means go ahead. Just make sure that there are no sensitive ears in the vicinity.

 

I WAS a modeller who had to learn by personal experience of the wrong way to do something, but I now know that slivers of tube cut with a Stanley knife are the stressless way to do it.

 

Bear in mind that the slice of tube doesn't have to be too short - it can be filed back with the crankpin after soldering.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

There you go again, rude and insulting. The Jidenco/Falcon Brass situation all over again. Edited July 18, 2018 by PenrithBeacon