RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 18, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 18, 2018 The Markits crankpin washers are a good fit on the crankpins but much too big and thick for using as retainers, they are very useful as spacing washers though. I cut the tube with a piercing saw, never tried the Stanley knife method but I'm assured that it works. For a retainer that isn't in a restricted space such as behind a crosshead I cut a thicker slice of tube to minimise the chance of it all locking up with solder, I also smother the end of the coupling rod in grease before soldering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 There you go again, rude and insulting. The Jidenco/Falcon Brass situation all over again. Not at all !!! You asked Mike what to use for crankpin rod retainers; he told you; you ignored his advice and asked for a source of washers; I provided a source but advised against washers and gave reasons; you made an incorrect statement re lathes; Adam gave advice re cutting tube; you referred to TW using washers - at which point I gained the impression that responders to your enquiry were wasting their time, as you seemed quite determined to ignore us and persist with washers. I conceded that some modellers - myself included - have to do it the hard way to learn anything. Nonetheless, I and other members have attempted to assist you - but all you seem interested in is your own original idea and in finding another reason to call me rude and insulting. You just can't help some people !! Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 The Markits crankpin washers are a good fit on the crankpins but much too big and thick for using as retainers, they are very useful as spacing washers though. I cut the tube with a piercing saw, never tried the Stanley knife method but I'm assured that it works. For a retainer that isn't in a restricted space such as behind a crosshead I cut a thicker slice of tube to minimise the chance of it all locking up with solder, I also smother the end of the coupling rod in grease before soldering.Thanks for that, I’ll look into it. Useful advice very similar to the method Tony Wright demonstrates in his DVDs Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted July 19, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 19, 2018 (edited) Another method is to chemically blacken the rods (which makes either brass or nickel silver look more like steel anyway) and retainers can then be soldered on with no risk of soldering it up solid. The only possible hitch is that you must use a flux that doesn't eat through the blackening. I either use Templer's Telux paste or just let the resin in the solder do the job, which it will do if the crankpin and washer are clean. That is not to say that other methods don't work because they clearly do. This has enabled me to use tiny washers when clearances are tight. On a double later etched rod, if I drill the outer set with a bigger hole I can recess the washer inside the rod, leaving a completely flush outside surface. The washers can be found on etched like MSE/Wizard Models signal arm products. Edited July 19, 2018 by t-b-g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Another method is to chemically blacken the rods (which makes either brass or nickel silver look more like steel anyway) and retainers can then be soldered on with no risk of soldering it up solid. The only possible hitch is that you must use a flux that doesn't eat through the blackening. I either use Templer's Telux paste or just let the resin in the solder do the job, which it will do if the crankpin and washer are clean. That is not to say that other methods don't work because they clearly do. This has enabled me to use tiny washers when clearances are tight. On a double later etched rod, if I drill the outer set with a bigger hole I can recess the washer inside the rod, leaving a completely flush outside surface. The washers can be found on etched like MSE/Wizard Models signal arm products. Useful information thanks. I use rosin flux and it doesn’t eat through the blackening. The small washers from eBay mentioned earlier in the thread arrived a few minutes ago, I’ll try them on Markits crankpins after lunch. This is all very much for the future really, I’m just getting ideas together. Outside cylinder industrial tank engines in P4 are a pain. If, as Michael suggests earlier, the combination of AGW wheels and Markits crankpins offer a better way forward so much the better. Thanks for your contribution Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 How does one order from JE? UK Model Shops mentions you accept Paypal, but I cannot see how to order? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 25, 2018 We do accept PayPal, our Email address is on the website. Alternatively you can send us a cheque (payable to Judith Edge) or phone us with your credit card details. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Thanks Michael. Looking on Slaters website, it appears there aren't the correct wheels for PWM650? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 26, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 26, 2018 7838i are the nearest, correct number of spokes at least. Have a look back up this thread to the photos of the test build, they are the ones i used for that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Thank-you Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Update: Spoke to David White at Slaters today. He has promised to look into doing the correct wheels for the DE165 PWM650. The real thing is now resident at Rowsley, so an easy trip for him to do the research...assuming Peak Rail let him on the site, LOL I've been twice, once without, and once with an invite, and got turned away both times. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 31, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2018 I hope that's more fruitful than the offer to produce BFB wheels for 11001...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted July 31, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2018 Update: Spoke to David White at Slaters today. He has promised to look into doing the correct wheels for the DE165 PWM650. The real thing is now resident at Rowsley, so an easy trip for him to do the research...assuming Peak Rail let him on the site, LOL I've been twice, once without, and once with an invite, and got turned away both times. Try the Heritage Shunters Trust at Rowsley who own two PWMs. Their open weekend is 1-2 Sept when anyone can visit and photograph their collection of historic shunters. http://heritageshuntertrust.wixsite.com/hst1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I hope that's more fruitful than the offer to produce BFB wheels for 11001...... I can but try. Have you nagged? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Try the Heritage Shunters Trust at Rowsley who own two PWMs. Their open weekend is 1-2 Sept when anyone can visit and photograph their collection of historic shunters. http://heritageshuntertrust.wixsite.com/hst1 Well, I would, except I'm not feeling much like putting any money Peak Rail's way, ever, since they cost me quite a lot for no return. And were damnably rude about it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted August 2, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 2, 2018 I can but try. Have you nagged? Yes, many times but we've decided to put the kit out with overlays for the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted August 2, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 2, 2018 Well, I would, except I'm not feeling much like putting any money Peak Rail's way, ever, since they cost me quite a lot for no return. And were damnably rude about it. The HST are a tenant independent organisation at Rowsley, they are not Peak Rail as is clear from my post. Civility runs both ways.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Try the Heritage Shunters Trust at Rowsley who own two PWMs. Their open weekend is 1-2 Sept when anyone can visit and photograph their collection of historic shunters. http://heritageshuntertrust.wixsite.com/hst1 Well, I would, except I'm not feeling much like putting any money Peak Rail's way, ever, since they cost me quite a lot for no return. And were damnably rude about it. The HST gala I went to last year was really good, and they were a friendly lot (as are the LMS coach people next door). I'm pretty sure it's possible to turn up and pay for the HST gala without having to buy a Peak Rail ticket Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted August 3, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 3, 2018 Tooling for three new kits just arrived today, will be away to PhotoEtch next week: Horwich 0F 0-4-0ST Harland & Wolff 0-6-0DH Fell Depending on speed of supply we hope to have the first two for EM North, all three for Scaleforum, no prices yet. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
decauville1126 Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Tooling for three new kits just arrived today, will be away to PhotoEtch next week: Horwich 0F 0-4-0ST Harland & Wolff 0-6-0DH Fell Depending on speed of supply we hope to have the first two for EM North, all three for Scaleforum, no prices yet. Excellent news - time to put the pennies away ready for Scaleforum. Harland & Wolff and Fell for me - will confirm by email once you've said they're done. Might it be possible to advise beforehand the required wheelsets, etc., so that they can be added to my shopping list for Gibsons stand? Saves having to open the boxes on the day, and then write down the requirements before trotting across. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted August 3, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 3, 2018 4844P for the Horwich 0F, 4839G for the Harland & Wolff, the Fell is designed to use 4851ST on 2mm axles, 4836ST bogie wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted August 3, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2018 Does one have to use finescale wheels? I'm interested in the Fell in OO, but I would prefer coarse scale wheels (RP25/110). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Does one have to use finescale wheels? I'm interested in the Fell in OO, but I would prefer coarse scale wheels (RP25/110). Presumably just drill / ream out the axle holes for 1/8" Romford / Markits wheels. That's what I will be doing - I already have the wheel-sets. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 That's spooky. Just had a look and I've got all those wheels in stock apart from the ones for the H&W. The tank engine wheels are meant for converting a Hornby Caley 0-4-0ST. The others are standard LMS tender and bogie wheels. I want to build something else from the range before diving into any of these though. The Barclay 01 looks favourite at the moment. Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted August 4, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 4, 2018 Does one have to use finescale wheels? I'm interested in the Fell in OO, but I would prefer coarse scale wheels (RP25/110). Markits produce the same wheels on 2mm axles, no reason why they can't be used in 00 gauge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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