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Judith Edge kits


Michael Edge
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We do have some in stock at the moment.

 

 

Can I reserve one, please?

 

And one for me too please, but not until next month. Had some very heavy expenditure last month. House concert starring Mokoomba. Totally stunning evening.

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That looks very good - did you fill the tank with lead? That adds more than enough mass in my experience.

Thanks Mike, yes it has plenty of ballast, both in the bunkers and the tank. It runs quite nicely with the 'knife edge' front axle.

It still needs a crew and a bit of local weathering.

 

Brendan

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi everyone Iv just got a 05 shunter low cab on line and as it’s my first brass kit does anyone have any pointers or advice for building these kits. Any tools that are useful any advice welcomed

Buy a book! Check if they any tutorials on YouTube and the best of Post Brexit British.
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Hi everyone Iv just got a 05 shunter low cab on line and as it’s my first brass kit does anyone have any pointers or advice for building these kits. Any tools that are useful any advice welcomed

 

A good basic guide to building etched brass kits is here. 

 

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Questions.html

 

 

Meant for O Gauge but most of the information is relevant for 4MM scale as well.

 

When it comes to soldering irons an 80 Watt version will be far to hefty for your needs if you are modelling in 4MM, a 25 Watt, 40 Watt or temperature controlled is a better bet.

 

 

Books? These are the bibles if you are into making loco kits.

 

http://www.titfield.co.uk/Wild-Swan/Model-Locos.htm

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Etched-Loco-Construction-Iain-Rice/dp/090686786X/ref=sr_1_7?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1543966024&sr=1-7&keywords=iain+rice

 

 

 

 

Jason

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Hi everyone Iv just got a 05 shunter low cab on line and as it’s my first brass kit does anyone have any pointers or advice for building these kits. Any tools that are useful any advice welcomed

 

There's a phone number and Email address in the instructions if you are having any difficulties, feel free to use them.

Michael and Judith

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I've had this in my library since the mid-70s, highly recommended

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Building-Model-Locomotives-F-J-Roche/dp/B0011QVXUI/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1544003253&sr=1-4&keywords=building+model+locomotives

 

I have several of Iain Rice's books and they aren't at all helpful for the beginner, being very disorganised and written in a 'jolly hockeysticks' style which I find very annoying when I'm struggling. The second volume of Geoff Holt's books is the better one for a beginner.

 

Tools:-

25W soldering iron with 1mm bit (Eileens/Squires)

Rosin cored solder and small tub of rosin flux (eBay)

Fibre glass brush(Eileens/Squires)

Xuron cutters (Eileens/Squires)

Swiss files (Eileens/Squires)

Folding bars (eBay)

Drills from .35mm to 2.2mm (Eileens/Squires)

Reamers 1.0mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm 3.0mm and 1/8" (Eileens/Squires)

Broaches (Eileens/Squires)

Mini-drill (Eileens/Squires)

Pin vices in 3 different sizes (Eileens/Squires)

14BA and 12BA taps (Buck and Hickman if you want HSS, Eileens/Squires if you want carbon steel)

Pliers; snipe, round and bull nosed (Eileens/Squires)

Side cutters (Eileens/Squires)

 

You will be able to get all of these (excepting the eBay items of course) at the Peterborough show next weekend

 

Be aware that there are health and safety risks for asthmatics for both rosin and acid based fluxes, please consult your GP if you are asthmatic and under no circumstances use an acid flux without eye protection ie safety goggles. The damned stuff spits and bubbles when heat is applied to it.

Edited by PenrithBeacon
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Phosphoric acid doesn't do that and it fluxes anything you will want to solder.

You don't need taps for our kits and 14BA will be very expensive and delicate.

30W soldering iron would be better but 25 is adequate, 1/8th reamer would be useful but I don't think you need the others.

Pliers need to be smooth faced, serrated ones aren't much use.

Otherwise I wouldn't disagree with that list.

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I agree re the smooth faced pliers, but I find that Carrs yellow flux does boil and spit. 12BA and 14BA taps may not be needed for Michael's kits but there are times when they are needed.

 

Other tools/materials which I forgot:-

 

4" engineers square, an adjustable one is best (Eileens/Squires, Buck and Hickman, Moore and Wright on eBay).

Scriber (Eileens/Squires)

Centre punch (Eileens/Squires)

Carrs metal black (I find the one for steel is best for nickel silver/brass) (Eileens/Squires,C&L)

Small hammer (Eileens/Squires)

Rivet punch (GW Tools)

Tool Box (I bought mine from Maplin, but they're not available now!)

Digital vernier caliper (Eileens/Squires)

6" rule (Eileens/Squires)

 

The list goes on and gets to be expensive

Edited by PenrithBeacon
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I haven't used rosin cored solder for years.  For etch kits I use 45 145* degree solder with (depending on size and location of part) either a phosphoric flux or Powerflux - with plenty of washing off afterwards.  I also haven't got any 'aids' for bending other than a pair of smooth parallel jaw pliers and some simple bending bars for long items made out of a couple of lengths of steel angle I found.  Your toolkit will expand naturally as you gain experience and ambition!

 

* - thanks Ray!

Edited by 5050
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I now use a tin/lead solder with 2% silver (52/s from Warton Metals), it does have a rosin flux but this isn't very significant. What is significant is how well it flows, melting point is something like 179 degrees, I use it for everything.

 

Not me, I still glue your resin castings on!

 

Mike.

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I now use a tin/lead solder with 2% silver (52/s from Warton Metals), it does have a rosin flux but this isn't very significant. What is significant is how well it flows, melting point is something like 179 degrees, I use it for everything.

Mike,

 

Please would it be possible to indulge us with a link or product number.  Somewhere here I think https://www.soldersonline.co.uk/dept.aspx?id=196

 

By the way, taps are useful when soldering nuts to models as those less competent tend to find solder creeping into the thread.  A quick clear out with a tap is easier than desoldering and restarting with a fresh nut.

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