RSA Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 So I'm finally got around to building the Knightwing Sentinel plastic kit that I bought I don't know how many years ago. I've got the Branchlines kit to convert from the original 0-6-0 to the 0-4-0 and those are the parts that I've become stuck with. Being a total novice to kit building and loco building, and having been out of modelling circulation since I was a kid I've got (what I think) is a basic question. What order should the parts in the photo be attached? I have: Extended axles; Romford wheels; Coupling rods; Crank pins(?) the pin and disk with a threaded hole - that will thread on to the axles; Tiny washers that fit onto the crank pins (if that's what they are). In the constructed wheelset; is everything in the right order? I know that they need 'quartering', but I don't want to glue/solder anything until I know it's in the right order and right place! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Also need axles bearings or sometimes called top hat bearings, one behind each wheel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSA Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 Yes, I've got the bearings covered - they are soldered into the chassis already. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSA Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 So is the consensus that the parts are on the axle in the right order and just need to be fixed and then the crankpin trimmed? What needs to be fixed and what and with what? I guess the coupling rod doesn't get fixed to anything, but the other items? How best to fix the 'washer' on the end of the crankpin? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 What needs to be fixed and what and with what? I guess the coupling rod doesn't get fixed to anything, but the other items? How best to fix the 'washer' on the end of the crankpin? Correct, the coupling rod must be free to rotate about the crankpin. I've soldered the washer in the past using foil as a barrier for the flux/solder (though chemically blackening/colouring with a permanent marker the ends of the rods helps too). Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 How are you driving the loco? Gear or gear box needs to be attached to one axle, before adding wheels. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 I think the next thing I would do is try a dry run and assemble the chassis, axles, cranks and the gear wheel ( and gear box if you are using one ) and motor, the outside cranks make it more difficult. I have only used them once and I ended up soldering them in place, that was on a model with a metal gear wheel. But the dry run will give you a feel for things. The Romford/Markits system allows you to screw and unscrew things many times. Possible order of assemble; Slide driven axle into chassis and gear wheel. Add wheels and lock nuts, can't see these in photo. 2nd axle and wheels. Cranks on first axle set at 90 degrees. One crank on 2nd axle, connecting on that side. 4th and last crank, use the 2nd connecting rod to set it's location. Offer up motor to see if gear is in right position on axle. See if resulting chassis will roll freely without binding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 I used Romford outside cranks on a K's Bulldog and instead of soldering the cranks. I put an 8ba nut on the thread first, then threaded on the crank to the right place then tightened the nut up against it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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