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Triang/Hornby R127 Crane Conversion


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Can someone tell the rest of us what the detailing/conversion bits are please.

 

It used to be an etched counterweight, and some etched pulleys, but now it's a sideline from my resin casting demo.

 

There are basically two versions either 6.5t or 10t cranes, and various crane numbers are available.

 

Both types are now a 1 piece resin counterweight with the 'Cowans Sheldon' 'Carlisle' and a crane number cast into the back rather than etches - pictures of both typles can be seen in this post.

 

http://www.rmweb.co....post__p__252876

 

Slightly strangely the 10t counterweight is smaller than the 6.5 t - in reality the difference is the jacking feet, as 'free on rail' the 10t has a capacity of 6.5t, and the 6.5t dosn't have jack feet.

 

They counterweights come with a set of etched pulleys, and (if you ask for them) a small etch for the jib tie-down ears to be mounted to the bufferbeam.

 

Cranes available

Cowans Sheldon Builders Number, BR identity, 1984 allocation, Preserved?

 

6.5t version

7557, ADM 33, Already in preservation by 1984?, Fawley Hill (McAlpine collection)

7571, ADM 47, Shrewsbury, Mangapps

7579, ADM 55, Watford, Toddington

7588, 060976 (ADW272), Hereford,not preserved

8512*, 061014 (ADS 2008), Exmouth Junction,Swanage

* 8512 has the jacks that 10t cranes are fitted with, however the counterweight is a 6.5t type, and the data plates do not mention weights above 6.5t

 

10t version

7599, ADM25, Toton, ?

7601, ADM27, Rugby, Quainton Road

8334, 083332, Tonbride West Yard, Titley Junction

 

Sets are £5 each plus postage at cost (unfortunately the counterweight is just too thick to qualify as a normal letter, so it has to go as a Large Letter).

 

PM for details of where to send payment, etc..

 

Thanks,

 

Jon

Edited by jonhall
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  • 3 weeks later...
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Does anybody remember the Cowans Sheldon hand crane that used to reside at Gloucester Horton Road around the late 80's please?

 

I've only found a distant glimpse of it and can't tell whether it's a 6.5 or 10 ton version. It's number and the identity of the match truck would be a great help!

 

Then I can order the correct conversion kit from Jon......

 

Thanks,

 

Clive.

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According to the platform 5 'track machines' published in n1984, it was ADW 225/060976 cs #7595 a 1944 built 6.5t

 

If you point me in the direction of the photo you mention I can see if I can get a match on the little lifting lugs in the back of the counterweight.

 

Jon

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Thanks Jon, thats a great help.

 

I've just happened across this image, which wasn't the one I was thinking of, and dosen't show the back of the weight but a good view none the less..

 

http://www.flickr.co...ews/5814626819/ Sorry for not checking before asking, doh!

 

6.5 ton kit it is then please. Now where's that chequebook......

 

Clive.

Edited by Boscarne
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See http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/40947-br-cowans-sheldon-65t-hand-crane-ex-gwr-o5-runner-wagon/ for my model, utilising the etched counterweight.

 

(Don't take the jib under-runner as gospel - a bit of modeller's licence here to justify the use of an ancient Ian Kirk kit).

 

The model is lettered using my transfer Sheet BL36; see http://www.cctrans.freeserve.co.uk/products.htm .

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Hi Jon, have tried sending a pm but can't for some reason. Are these kits still on the go? I'm After a 10t adm25 toton one as a complete kit ie any resin and etch going.

 

Can you help

 

Yes, best to try another pm - I've had a clear out of my inbox to see if that was the problem. Otherwise I'll be at Tolworth Showtrain this coming weekend if you happen to be visiting.

 

Jon

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Very interesting thread with some great photos.  Can anyone tell me which crane the Hornby R127 is modelled on: the 6.5 or 10 ton version?

Thanks

 

Hi,

 

I believe that the only difference was in the fitting or not of pull-out jacks.

 

The Hornby version has a representations of the jacks, so is - without modification - the 10T version.

 

Mine represents the 6.5T version; I ground away the representation of the jacks.

 

post-2274-0-76255100-1415813457_thumb.jpg

 

Below is a list of these cranes ; it may well be that Nos. 221, 223, 361 & 266 at the top of the list are the later numbers of cranes listed below them.

 

The list gives Cowans Sheldon Works Number / Build Date / Lifting Capacity / First BR No. / Later BR No.

 

post-2274-0-11950700-1415815169.jpg

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited by cctransuk
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There are two versions of the 6,.5t and one of the 10t (in the simplest terms - probably more in detail) the Triang is closest to the 10t.

 

Disc wheels might not be appropriate, spoke or even split spoke seem more common. Lever the axles out with a big screwdriver and look at how the original axle was held - effectively the chassis was 'pinched' so that the axle was trapped, you first need to clean one side of the axlebox groove with a file to restore its smooth sides, what you can thendo is superglue a brass top hat bearing in the 'pinched' side, and then balance the wheekset in it with a second tophat bearing on the other end. Once in place a drop of superglue between bearing and chassis will hold it.

 

The kit is still available.

 

Jon

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Thanks for your input on rewheeling the crane chassis.  I shall take your advice on fitting the spoked wheels and search out the brass top hat bearings you mentioned.  I looked at your conversion kit and was much impressed but my desire to convert my crane using your kit is (sadly) tempered by the fact I have never worked with or used etched parts and would probably make a right Horlics of the job but I shall improve the overall look of the model to the best of my limited abilities.

All the best

dmh

 

I fail to understand the fear and trembling induced by the fateful words 'etched brass'. They do not imply 'only for those with watchmaker skills'.

 

In the case of Jon's detailing kit for the crane, the principle components are the parts for the pulleys visible at the swan's neck of my crane (above). If you can apply a dab of superglue, and line up a couple of layers with a pin, you can make these pulleys. The etched facing for the counterweight needs curving round a broom handle, and sticking in place with superglue. (Correct me if my memory plays tricks with me, Jon).

 

Don't be put off - etched brass is not the sole province of 'the gifted'; (who do not exist - they're just modellers who persisted, and learned skills by being prepared to make a few mistakes in the process).

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Actually the etched counterweight has been superseded by a cast resin block, so the only etch is the pulleys which as John describes, are made up using a pin as an axle and using a sliver of wire insulation to separate the pulleys as required.

 

Jon

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cctransuk: its a great job on the crane..i have one ready for adding the wires and hook.. may i ask about the rigging on your model? is it just cotton? how did you stop it from sagging and keep it all taut?

 

Yep - just cotton; the least hairy that I could find, smeared lightly with grease.

 

Sagging - artificial gravity !

 

A length of phosphor-bronze pick-up strip between the jib and the crane base puts the strip in tension when the jib is raised. You will need the spring brakes on the winding drums to take the tension in the cables.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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Rather than using cotton, which can go 'furry', and which is sensitive to changes in humidity, it might be worth looking at some of the different threads sold for 'beading'. Many of these are of man-made fibres.

I've just had a look at a reel downstairs. It's called 'Parachute Cord' (no idea why..), and is a greyish-black colour. This reel came from 'www.thesilvercorporation.co.uk , and has 50 metres of fine cord. It can also serve for sheeting and roping wagons, wire for post and wire fencing, and for signal or telephone wires.

Edited by Fat Controller
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There is another version of the crane that I could do, but have never packaged - I have a plain 6.5t counterweight with no raised lettering that makes applying John's transfers even easier, if you didn't want the etched pullies then all you would have to do is cut the moulded weight off and replace with the resin block.

 

post-336-0-75758300-1416156084.jpg

 

I could do that for £2.50 but the postage is still 1.24 because the bock is just too thick to qualify as a normal letter - or you could take your chances if you want and I'll put a normal stamp on and see f it gets through?

 

post-336-0-86103600-1416156085.jpg

 

I've also included a snap of the 10T counterweight in the raw resin as well - both the 6.5t and 10t are now a one piece resin block counterweight.

 

post-336-0-77415800-1416156086.jpg

 

Jon

 

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