Peco O-16.5 GVT Beyer-Peacock Kit?

[ELTEL]

Sorted

[hayfield]

Hi Dave

 

Apparently after chatting down at the clubroom tonight it seems there should be a shim that fits on the axle making the gear a tight fit.

 

I will check the tray with all the bits I took off to clean and refurbish the chassis.

 

If not I will either adapt another 060 or 040 chassis and mount the chassis in the centre of the body or purchase a branchline kit.

 

Terry

 

 

Terry

 

Markits do an axle of the correct diameter to fit the Triang/Hornby chassis, in fact two, one is knarled so the gear wheel can be pushed on and a plain one 

[ELTEL]

Answers to a few point raised.

 

The completed loco was purchased secondhand of the 7mm sales stand some years ago and had run well.

 

It still uses the orginal Hornby motor (XO4 type)I think.

 

The wheels are Romford insulated on one side, so a live chassis, centre wheels flangless

 

The two problems are knowing what gear wheel to fit on the centre axle and will I have to change the worm on the motor shaft as well.

 

Any idea of part numbers or where I can obtain them from

 

The gear will have to a push fit as ther is little space for a collar type gear

 

The chassis block is a original Tri-ang/Hornby 0-6-0 and is the solid chassis with a slot to push the axle through.

 

I have since purchased a new Branchlines chassis but since reading the recent posts wonder if that was the right decision

 

Sorry for rambling on....

[hayfield]

The Branchlines chassis are superb, saying that a plastic re-railer is useful as whilst the rear pony truck may be prototypical the skirts make putting it on the track more difficult that a rigid 0-6-0, the running qualities of the Branchlines chassis are far superior to the Triang/Hornby one

 

I do not know how easy it is to retro fit a Branchlines chassis to a ready built loco designed to fit the Triang/Hornby chassis, as the fixings are very different. If I were to replace the chassis I would use a Wills Finecast etched Jinty replacement chassis, of a Southeastern Finecast one without the brake gear, as these are designed to directly replace the Triang/Hornby jinty chassis.

 

The older Wills chassis are the CK1 or FC101 (FC102 will also work as designed for tender locos and have no rear guard irons). A modern motor and gearbox will transform the locos performance. These do come up on eBay and for what ever reason hold their prices against the cost of new ones, despite the newer ones being far better for normal locos as they have brake gear

 

Edit

 

The Branchlines chassis is a super relatively easy to build chassis which works very well, chalk and cheese between both chassis, if the loco body was a kit no question using it in a ready built body designed to fit a totally different chassis.

Edited October 7, 2016 by hayfield

[Jeff Smith]

Yes, I have a Kitwood Hill Models 90mm turntable to assemble - this is really an 009 product but will represent a GVT 12' diameter turntable.  I ordered with code 100 16.5 rails installed to match the Peco O-16.5 track.

 

In an earlier post I expressed concern that the chimney end was not heavy enough to keep the uncompensated fixed axle on the track.  Experiments with added weight on top of the body were inconclusive so no action was taken.  I'll see how it performs once I get the GVT track laid.

I am resurrecting this thread to give an update and ask if anyone else has had the same problem. I recently ran my model on a newly completed test/running-in layout. Basically an 18" radius circle of Peco code 75. It ran beautifully cab first but regularly falls off the track chimney first. This is the non-compensated driving axle and it falls outside the circle so is somehow riding up over the rail. I am not going to worry right now unless it does it on my yet to be built GVT layout which will use Peco O-16.5 track and points which I trust come nowhere near a continuous 18" radius. I just wondered if anyone else has experienced this with the Branchlines chassis?

[hayfield]

Jeff

 

I never had any issues with the loco falling off track when using the Branchlines chassis but I made it rigid, as I bought the chassis s/h and the builder who initially started it lost some of the parts. I had issues with the rear pony truck when putting the loco on the track, due to the skirts being in the way.

 

One theory I have is to use a very old Triang Jinty chassis, the type that has screw up sides. I was going to reduce in size the front and rear chassis castings. turn the loco into an 0-6-0 with flangeless centre drivers, as the wheels are hidden by the skirts. or you could use the Southeastern Finecast FC200 (or FC202) etched chassis, using the kits original cast chassis fixings and just but another set of wheels. Or just fit a Jinty chassis

[PatB]

I am resurrecting this thread to give an update and ask if anyone else has had the same problem. I recently ran my model on a newly completed test/running-in layout. Basically an 18" radius circle of Peco code 75. It ran beautifully cab first but regularly falls off the track chimney first. This is the non-compensated driving axle and it falls outside the circle so is somehow riding up over the rail. I am not going to worry right now unless it does it on my yet to be built GVT layout which will use Peco O-16.5 track and points which I trust come nowhere near a continuous 18" radius. I just wondered if anyone else has experienced this with the Branchlines chassis?

 

Is your loco still cab heavy? If so, is it see-sawing on the compensated centre axle and allowing the flange of the front driver to climb over the rail? If so,The solutions that come to mind are lead in the smokebox and/or arranging a spring of some kind between pony truck and chassis so the pony truck becomes (more) load-bearing.

[Hando]

I recommend that when you run it, operate it back to front.

When the tramway was running, the Board of Trade (the regulators of Britain's transport infrastructure) Made sure all that all of the Beyer Peacocks had of their valves and driving machinery put to the back of the loco.

Edited October 15, 2020 by Hando

[Jeff Smith]

Yes, my threads below indicate that I will generally be doing that as I have a scale size turn table to install. However it will have to negotiate points when running round for shunting etc.

[cncmodeller]

I've just built this GVT loco body kit again with the Branchlines chassis, the last time I built this body kit was 1978 I was 14!

I'm now a professional modelmaker of 30 years experience, I got this to use as a display loco mainly, you can see the kit is pre CAD and CNC with lots of fit issues which I remember from my youth. I managed to put it all together concentrating on getting the corners of the body to line up so that when I filled the gaps it all matched. The smoke box end is slightly tapered on one side so I evened that out so that front valance fitted. The branchlines chassis is interesting it runs ok but there is so much movement on the wheels it seems. Firstly the motorised axle has a lot of sideways play so I limited that with washers,secondly the other coupled axle has vertical and sideways movement and is connected with a compensation  beam to the rear pony truck, so the whole chassis to me seems far too flexible about its wheels, I'm going to make the four coupled axles more rigid and the pony truck I shall try and fit springs on it's sideways movement and limit its vertical movement as my test track is completely flat. I would recommend perhaps getting hold of a Dapol 14xx 0-4-2 if you insist on this wheel arrangement but an 0-6-0 with no centre flanges is probably better. 

[hayfield]

I built one of the body kits and thankfully used the instructions, I bought a second hand Branchlines Chassis part built (well the axle holes a bit butchered, but had no instructions as a guide so assumed it required fixed axles, it runs very well but a bit difficult to re-rail the pony truck owing to the skirts. I then bought a second loco and chassis and found it is designed to have a set of floating drivers.

 

I agree it would be better with a 0-6-0 wheel arrangement, but simply for ease of rerailing, don't forget it was originally designed to fit a Triang 0-6-0 Jinty chassis, in fact you could deconstruct the Triang Jinty chassis, either chop up the frame spacers or replace with Romford type ones, bush the axles to 1/8 and use Romford/Markit or Scaleway drivers, a slim High Level gearbox will fit

 

Having built a few MTK kits I was not too bothered about the body parts fit, I used low melt solder which to an extent acts as a filler

 

I have a plan to build a a double cab version of a narrow gauge loco, there was a layout on the circuit with 3 versions in 0-16.5. I think the prototype I saw was Scandinavian (similar to the LNER Y10 )

[bluedepot]

sorry to hijack but hope ok as i am selling this loco for charity currently

 

other gvt O-16.5 items will follow 

 

see link here:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324322456800

 

 

[bluedepot]

for sale now is gvt beyer peacock "dennis" 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324400435201

 

all proceeds will go to a hospice charity